Topics

Annual Haul Out


Stephan Regulinski
 

We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat owner
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark, having
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in good
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must scrub
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis was
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because the
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on discussions
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about 18
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did was
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put the
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season the
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50% gone I
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with about
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on the
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug are
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing. The
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't know
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings on
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a syringe
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as described
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the set
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in place.
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected to
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes in
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I was
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in and
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the boat
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to fit
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of the
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once the
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that its
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the other
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the drive
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the tapping
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference of
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a spec
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a good
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare and
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I found
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the motor
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from stainless
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local Onan
dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them. I
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought from
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the messy
job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance is
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to use
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a soft
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply the
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5 years,
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled 3
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch. It
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took them
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody out
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:
We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Correction: We have owned Liahona since July 2001.

Sorry, Gary Silver


eric freedman <kimberlt@...>
 

Gary,
are you still in tortola? do you have the diesel heater option?
eric
kimberlite


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat
owner
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark,
having
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in
good
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must
scrub
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis
was
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because
the
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on
discussions
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about
18
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did
was
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put
the
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season
the
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50%
gone I
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with
about
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on
the
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug
are
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.
The
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't
know
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings
on
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a
syringe
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as
described
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the
set
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in
place.
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected
to
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes
in
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I
was
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in
and
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the
boat
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to
fit
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of
the
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once
the
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that
its
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the
other
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the
drive
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the
tapping
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference
of
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a
spec
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a
good
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare
and
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I
found
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the
motor
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from
stainless
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local
Onan
dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.
I
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought
from
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the
messy
job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance
is
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to
use
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a
soft
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply
the
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5
years,
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled
3
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.
It
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took
them
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody
out
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:
We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can
anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is
best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am
I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Jan 26, 2004

Hi Eric:

I am back in Utah but our boat (Liahona) is at the Woods Marina in
Sea Cow Bay, Tortola (about 2 miles south of Road Town along the
south eastern coast of Tortola). We will be back down there in
March. It is the next bay north of Nanny Cay. We had been on the
hard at Nanny Cay for the hurricane season but they didn't have any
slips available for us upon launching. Jim Woods is an exceptional
marina manager and very accomadating and it was signifcantly cheaper
than Nanny Cay to boot.

I have the fresh air ventilation system but I do not have the diesel
heater.

What do you need to check on the rudder screws that you mentioned?

Regards, Gary


Willem J. Kroes <w.kroes@...>
 

Hi Gary,

Your description of replacing the seals from the prop shaft bushing
is very clear. Thank you very much!

One question remains: how to place the seals. Do I have to place 2
seals in such a manner that these prevent water coming in and the
third seal turned so it will prevent oil leaking out?


Regards,

Willem J. Kroes

Santorin 69 "Kavanga"
---- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@y...>
wrote:
Jan 24, 2004
Hi Stephan:

Sorry to be so slow to answer: I am a new (and first time boat
owner
although I am a FAA certified aircraft mechanic and am used to
turning a wrench or two). We have had our Amel SM Hull #335 since
July 2003. Our first haul out was at the 1 & 1/2 year mark, having
been in Caribbean waters for about 9 months. The bottom was in
good
shape but because I wasn't sure how long to expect it to stay that
way we did the bottom paint. Amel recommends a hard bottom paint
(thus I believe this is a non-ablative type paint that you must
scrub
periodically). In checking with multiple sources the concensis was
that if you sail alot then an ablative paint works well because the
motion stirs things up and provides exposure of new paint. If you
don't sail a great deal (me, only about 4 months a year) then the
hard paint is better but must be periodically scrubbed. I chose
Petit Trinidad SR (a hard Slime Retardant paint) based on
discussions
with various yards in the Caribbean. It took 5 gallons to put 2
coats on everything and a third coat at the water line down about
18
inches (This is reportedly what the Moorings boats do). The paint
was about $155 USD in Grenada where I had it done. All they did
was
scuff sand the existing paint to provide tooth adhesion and put the
new paint on with a roller. It has held up well for 14 months now
and I did one scrubbing using 3M pads and two scuba tanks of air
(about a 5 hour job). At our haul out for the hurricane season the
bottom looked great. It is evidently imparative not to put a hard
paint over an ablative paint. I am told that it will flake off.

I have replaced the zincs twice. We are only in marinas hooked to
shore power for brief periods and when the zincs are about 50% gone
I
replaced them. Joel tells me that they may go in a few months or
last a year or more based on where the boat is and various marina
power scenarios etc. I guess I am about average at 15 months per
set.

I just changed the seals and the bronze prop shaft bushing with
about
400 hrs on the engine. There was no evidence of oil leakage at the
prop shaft. The oil was clean and there was very little wear on the
bushing. I suspect they would have easily gone to 1000 hours.

The procedure for changing the seals and busing isn't documented
anywhere so I thought I might tell you about my experience. I
purchased new "O" rings based on the drawing from Amel but my boat
has the rope cutter insalled and the "O" rings on the drain plug
are
a different size than depicted on the plain drain plug drawing.
The
chandlery in Nanny Cay had the correct size "O" ring. I don't know
what size "O" ring I ended up with but it would be worth checking
with Amel for the correct size for you application. The "0" rings
on
the bushing were supplied on mine spare from Amel. Exactly 8.5
liters of very clean oil drained from the drive and I used a
syringe
to get all that I could out of the bottom of the drive as described
by Amel. I used some penetrant oil the night before on all the set
screws that hold the rope cutter in place and they all cam out
easily. The various spacers and cutter came off the shaft and the
bushing slid out very nicely. This left the three seals in place.
There may be various ways to remove the seals but what we did is
drilled two small holes on each side of the seal, screwed a sheet
metal screw into the two holes and used a slide hammer connected to
the screws to pull the seal out. Then we drilled two more holes in
the next seal and repeated this process two more times. The seals
came out easily using this method. Prying etc would have been a
bigger chore. Some people collapse the seals with a punch but I
was
afraid this might damage the prop shaft. The new seals slid in and
were tapped into place using an appropriately size piece of pipe
about 14 inches long. I will measure this next time I am on the
boat
and post the dimensions because the size must be quite exact to fit
the seal and it must be long enough to extend beyond the end of the
prop shaft. Anyone doing this job themselves might want to put
together a tool kit that included this pipe (seal driver). Once the
seals are in place the bushing was inserted and pushed in so that
its
most aft portion is flush with the drive housing. Then all the
other
stuff (cutter and spacers, prop etc) were re-assembled and the
drive
was filled with 8.5 liters of 15/40 Diesel Engine Oil. I used
Lanicote on the prop shaft becuase I understand it will prevent
dissimilar metal corrosion.

When I removed the prop originally (which we did for the Autoprop
recall) we had a very difficult time. We had the Amel prop puller
and actually stretched the bolts to breaking once. All the tapping
and pulling we exerted didn't seem to help. Many folks gathered
around in the yard to offer a host of suggestions but finally what
work almost instantaneously was tapping around the circumference of
the prop hub on the forward aspect of the hub. There wasn't a spec
of corrosion or anything else holding the prop in place, just a
good
tight tapered shaft and Woodruff key.

I just had the fresh water pump fail. Fortunately I had a spare
and
promptly installed it. Upon disassembly of the original pump I
found
the pump housing, bronze impeller and motor shaft all pristine. A
plain steel Woodruff key was used by the manufacturer and it was
completely corroded away so that the impeller just spun on the
motor
shaft. I have tried un-successfully to find stainless steel or
bronze Woodruff Keys. I am going to manufature my own from
stainless
steel. Seems odd though that they would put a mild steel key in a
pump like this.

I have changed the finger zinc in the Onan genset once and it was
about 50% gone. I was able to obtain several more from my local
Onan
dealer here in the US.

I have ordered the water heater zincs from West Marine who had to
order them from Plastimo. It has been six weeks and I am still
waiting. West Marine/Plastimo wanted about $50.00 each for them.
I
didn't price them from Amel because the one I originally bought
from
Amel was the incorrect size. I only discovered that after the
messy
job of opening the water heater.

One other job that is important as far as preventive maintenance is
winch overhauls. I ordered the book from Lewmar and an overhaul
kit. Mostly you need the Lewmar grease, some plastic buckets to
use
to soak and scrub the various parts in some mineral spirits, a soft
bristled brush to help wash with and a few small brushes to apply
the
grease with. All of our winches were in great shape after 1.5
years,
including a trans-atlantic. Lewmar says they should be overhauled
3
times per season. If you did that with 11 winches you would spend
your entire season overhauling winches. It took me about 1 to 2
hours per winch to overhaul them based on the size of the winch.
It
is fairly straight forward (just remember for sure how you took
them
apart). The only winches that showed any signs of distress were
those on the main mast since they have so much greater sea water
exposure. I will plan to do them twice per year from now on. The
others will do nicely being done once a year based on my use.

I haven't yet tackled the bow thruster work. If there is anybody
out
there that could give details of the process it would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Sea Cow Bay, Tortola



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Stephan Regulinski"
<stephreg@y...> wrote:
We are planning a haul out in the next several months. Can
anyone
advise on basic bottom paint stuff?

1. How much bottom paint should we plan on buying?

2. How many coats are applied?

3. Is a prep coat of something required before bottom paint?

4. What surface prep is required?

Since we will not be in an Amel yard, I want to know how it is
best
done, not what the local guy thinks!

I also understand that I should service the bow thruster, change
the
seals and oil in the sail drive and check/replace the zincs. Am
I
missing anything important?

Thanks for your help,

Stephan G. Regulinski
S/V Delos (SMM #303)