Dessalator Water Maker Logic Board


Judy Rouse
 

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bill & Judy:

Sorry that your circuit board quit working. I would be curious about the
details, i.e. what LEDs were lit when it quit?, was the green LED on the
circuit board on after the failure?, did the high pressure pump trip off,
did the diversion valve energize?, did the low pressure pump keep
running?, etc.

Do you still have the old board? Any chance you would send it to me
for analysis.

Is the replacement board the same board or a newer version?
Any chance the new board actually works as advertised as far as
dirverting salt water or is it still the sham hookup that came
stock from Dessalator? I have considered designing a board that
would interface to a real salinity sensor and retrofitting it to my
system. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Gary Silver

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387


Judy Rouse
 

Gary,

The replacement board was identical.

I gave the old board to the tech who helped me with the diagnosis.

All lights went out on the panel and would not come back on. I am
not positive about the green light on the board, but I am fairly
sure it was out as well. I did check power to the board when it was
switched "ON" and the board was receiving 24 VDC power. The fuses
on the board were good. While I was running the watermaker, it
simply quit.

I will see if I can get the board back for you.

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Bill & Judy:

Sorry that your circuit board quit working. I would be curious
about the
details, i.e. what LEDs were lit when it quit?, was the green LED
on the
circuit board on after the failure?, did the high pressure pump
trip off,
did the diversion valve energize?, did the low pressure pump keep
running?, etc.

Do you still have the old board? Any chance you would send it to
me
for analysis.

Is the replacement board the same board or a newer version?
Any chance the new board actually works as advertised as far as
dirverting salt water or is it still the sham hookup that came
stock from Dessalator? I have considered designing a board that
would interface to a real salinity sensor and retrofitting it to my
system. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Gary Silver

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy" <sailingjudy@>
wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would
not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic
board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:

Regarding:

"All lights went out on the panel and would not come back on. I am
not positive about the green light on the board, but I am fairly
sure it was out as well. "
I suspect that a component in the power rectifier circuit failed. This
would shut down all power to the logic circuits including all the LED
indicators plus the Green LED on the circuit board.

This whole board could be replaced by a couple of switches because
all it does is act as a timer for starting the low pressure pump and
then the high pressure pump. The by-pass solenoid is activated
on a timer basis also since it isn't connected to the Dessalator
salinity sensor. Instead of several relays there could just as
easily be several switches with human input acting as the timer.

Switch #1 : Switches 24 VDC to the Low Pressure Pump Control
Relay and starts the pump.

Switch #2 : Switches 24 VDC to the High Pressure Pump Control
Relay and starts that pump

Swithc #3 : Switches 24 VDC to the By-pass Solenoid and
activates this solenoid

This last switch (i.e. relay) can be wired to a real salinity sensor so that
nothing gets to the fresh water tank until the water is truely safe. The
salinity sensor that I have recommended has a relay control circuit
incorporated.

I am glad you system is working again. Sorry it cost so much.

Gary


drdavegoodman
 

I'm wondering how old the circuit board was when it failed? On older
Amels, perhaps it would be wise to carry an spare circuit board. Do
any of you carry a spare circuit board, or know of people who do?

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387