H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

amelliahona <no_reply@...>

Hi to all:

I just posted the first of some information on overhaul of the
H6 AutoProp in the Files Section. This is a PDF showing the
exploded parts diagram for the AutoProp and the various parts
numbers. The instructions are included.

NOTE: All threads on the autoprop are normal Right Hand
Threads EXCEPT the Tab Screw (item # 4, PN TRI-0221) which

There is a definite learning curve on this process. My first
blade took me 12 hours and lots of frurstration. I will be
posting to the folder a summary of my experience with
tips and suggestions to make it easier for you.

I would suggest replacing the Lip Seal (item 8, PN H6 SL)
every couple of years. To see what happens when you don't
do this, see the photo's section for what my bearings
looked like 2 years and 200 hrs after AutoProp did the
recall blade retention service. Note that I greased my
AutoProp every six months.

SUGGESTIONS: 1. Don't direct high pressure wash stream at
the AutoProp. 2000 psi water will blow past the lip seal
and contaminate the grease/bearings.
2. Grease the prop right after haulout rather than waiting
to do it before re-launch. 3. Inspect the lip seal every
two years and replace as necessary. The overhaul requires
special tools that you can buy or fabricate. I fabricated
mine in Antiqua as I didn't know for sure what I needed
until I had opened it up and found a real mess (see photos).

I don't want to scare anyone about the condition of their
AutoProp but mine was in bad shape despite what I
thought was tight compliance to AutoProps maintenance

Regards, Gary

Andrew & Kate Lamb


Whilst our boat was on the dry and after the normal greasing of the auto-prop H6, I noticed that one of the blades doesn't turn as easily as the other two also when I push the grease through the central cap it doesn't come out the side blade grease hole like the other two. I have stripped it down and the ball races, seals and central removable bearings all seem ok the only difference that I can find is what seems to be another bearing I don't think one that can be changed which seems more tightly fixed into the blade in the "bad" blade than the other two. Also I am able to turn by hand the inner side of the bearing on the two "good" blades. It does not look like this bearing can be removed easily in any of the blades but on the "good" blades if I syringe white spirit through the side blade grease hole it trickles through behind this bearing where as I can't get any white spirit through in the "bad" blade side grease hole. When I put it all back together the "bad" blade feels marginally stiffer than the other two. The lips seals seems fine on all of the blades. 

I wondered if anyone had knowledge or experience enough to know whether I should be too concerned about one of the blades being slightly stiffer than the other two and thoughts / advice on what to do next?





SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>

As I understood the instructions of Autoprop you should put the grease into the sidehole and it should come out of the central hole of the blade - see download from autoprop site ?

Wolfgang Weber
SY Elise # 162 Amel 54

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