[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice please


Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks





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niels & rowena <nrfaerch@...>
 

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

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John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, niels & rowena <nrfaerch@...>
wrote:

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack
of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with
something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening
again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and
let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning
up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU
WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't
make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut
off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on
engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors,
since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as
discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to
not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause
the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side
(whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should
spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble
shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in
reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good
luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@>
wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is
clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-
pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

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Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Niels,
The owners manual for my Yanmar 75HP recommends that if the engine
has been on a light load for a while that it should be run up to max
revs to burn off the carbon build up on the turbo fan. This should be
done several times until white smoke is cleared from the exhaust.
Having done that it is important to let the engine tick over for a
minute or so so that the fan bearings etc are cooled/cleansed with
oil rather than leaving the burt oil to dry in place. It also
recommends injecting a water/soap spray from time to time but I have
not been brave enough to try this!

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319




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