[Amel] Re: MAST WIRING


karkauai
 

Thanks, Gary,
I told you guys I was going to need some hand-holding.  I guess this all seems pretty basic to you "old salts".  I get it...I'll let you know what I find.
Kent
Kristy SM243

--- On Sat, 7/25/09, amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: MAST WIRING
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 25, 2009, 8:34 PM


 



Kent:

Let's start here:

European wiring color codes:

Wire Color = Yellow/Green = Protective earth or bonding wire, goes to rudder zinc.
Wire Color = Blue = AC neutral or DC negative
Wire Color = Brown = AC line voltage or DC positive voltage
Wire Color Red = usually means DC positive
Wire Color Black = usually means DC negative

Use a multimeter and measure DC volts between the various buss posts and a ground
as you turn on and off the various breakers (e.g. tricolor,steaming light, and anchor
light). This will verify that the buss posts are properly labeled.

It really sounds like the wires for the tricolor and anchor lights are swapped and your
tricolor bulb is burned out at the masthead.

" The bus and wiring is all clearly marked, and all red wires are connected to the
appropriately labled posts on the bus."

I don't think you can assume this. Verify it using a multimeter.

" The black wire labeled "blanc" (is that a French thing?)is attached to the same post as
the red one marked "blanc", and the white wire labeled "tricolor" is attached to the
same post as the red one marked the same."

Blanc means white in French. It isn't clear to me if this is the anchor light but Projecteur
is probably the steaming light or possibly the foredeck light. A little detective work
with your multimeter will tell which one.

" There are two unmarked brown wires attached to the posts marked "projecteur" and
"hune"," I don't know what Hune means, I can't find it in any of my dictionaires.

" and all the blue wires and a green one (which runs with the black and white ones) are
all attached to the far starboard post.....whew. Does that sound right to you?"

all the blue wires are DC grounds aka negative and are appropriately tied together.

" are fuses somewhere that could be keeping the anchor light switch ..." No fuses unless
someone has tinkered with the original wiring.

Get your multimeter out, measure between each buss terminal and the ground (negative)
terminal while you cycle the various breakers.

Good Luck. Gary Amel SM 335
















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Kent:

No problem. This is what this forum is best at.

While you have that floor panel in front of the fridge out, open the cover to the fresh
water tank by loosening the two nuts on the exposed bolts and drop (not
literally) the tank access panel downward and remove it so as to inspect your
fresh water tanks. Good to see how clean the water looks and you also get a look
at a couple of the keel bolts in the bottom of the tank. Vacuum up any lint, dust or
other detritus prior to opening this panel so it won't fall into the tank.

This is one of three access panels : (one under the fridge, this one you just opened
in front of the fridge, and one that I haven't opened further forward, perhaps
under the washer or the fridge/freezer). Inspect your tank and see if it needs to
be cleaned and/or sanitized with Chlorox.

If you sanitize your fresh water tanks follow the instructions on the Chlorox
bottle for the amount to use. I put the Chlorox in as I fill the tank completely
full so that the ceiling of the tank gets treated as well. I usually swirl the water as the
tank fills so all sections of the tank will get treatment. I let it sit for an hour or
so, then pump all the water out thru the various faucets and taps. Make sure that
NONE OF THIS CHLORINATED WATER MAKES ITS WAY TO YOUR DESSALINATOR
MEMBRANES. To prevent that, empty all the treated sanitized water and flush
all lines with non-chlorinated water. Lastly have a carbon block filter installed
on the flush line to the desalinator membranes prior to using the flush.

All that is off topic but since you were there.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Gary,
I told you guys I was going to need some hand-holding.  I guess this all seems pretty basic to you "old salts".  I get it...I'll let you know what I find.
Kent
Kristy SM243