[Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K




Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11


BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K




Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour John,

The valve itself is definitely above the waterline and can be removed while the boat is in the water.
The problem I am facing is that it is difficult to remove / unscrew from the seacock, beeing sure not to dammage the seacock itself.

The valve is a 1-1/4 in brass. perhaps can it be replaced by a Makrolon one.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-14
----- Message reçu -----
De : johnabo2003
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 15:46:35
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


richard03801@...
 

To all. When we have had to replace the valves we used 2 pipe wrenches one to stop any damage to the mounting (turn as if to tighten the other with a longer handle to loosen) it's worked every time. I know the US and Euro pipe threads or should be the same we find that only the European valves fit properly. Be sure to use a none hardening sealer on the threads.
Good luck
Richard on SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...>
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 07:45:35
To: amelyachtowners<amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Bonjour John,

The valve itself is definitely above the waterline and can be removed while the boat is in the water.
The problem I am facing is that it is difficult to remove / unscrew from the seacock, beeing sure not to dammage the seacock itself.

The valve is a 1-1/4 in brass. perhaps can it be replaced by a Makrolon one.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-14
----- Message reu -----
De : johnabo2003
: amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 15:46:35
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
: amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-13
----- Message reu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
: amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2009-12-11








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


rossirossix4
 

Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

The valve itself is definitely above the waterline and can be removed while the boat is in the water.
The problem I am facing is that it is difficult to remove / unscrew from the seacock, beeing sure not to dammage the seacock itself.

The valve is a 1-1/4 in brass. perhaps can it be replaced by a Makrolon one.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-14
----- Message reçu -----
De : johnabo2003
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 15:46:35
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2009-12-11








------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour John,

The valve itself is definitely above the waterline and can be removed while the boat is in the water.
The problem I am facing is that it is difficult to remove / unscrew from the seacock, beeing sure not to dammage the seacock itself.

The valve is a 1-1/4 in brass. perhaps can it be replaced by a Makrolon one.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-14
----- Message reçu -----
De : johnabo2003
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 15:46:35
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


I would also like to replace the forward head holding tank drain pipe and service the seacock. Can the seacock and down pipe be safely removed whilst the boat is in the water. In other words is the thread for the seacock above the waterline?

Does anybody know the thread size and material of the seacock so that I can order a spare in advance of going to the boat?

John
SM 394

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@> wrote:

Bonjour John,

I will try to do it that way as soon as I can get a new valve, hoping that mine will come out as easily as yours...dismounting is very often far more difficult than installing a new gear.

Best wishes

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-13, 10:33:55
Sujet : Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hello Yves,
I think I understand ! But you have to unscew the whole valve complete and replace it with a new one.
That is what I did a few years ago. It was pretty easy once I got the hose off. The central part of the valve is not removable so far as I know so the whole unit has to be sent to be recycled if you want to get full brownie points.

Best wishes, John, SM 319
----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K



Bonjour Anne and John,

And thank you for your help.

I am not so strong but the shaft has very little material: OD 9 mm threaded, a hole inside of 3 mm. and a cut of 1.5 mm each side for the handle leaving only a maximum of 3 working mm of material where it broke.

I usually wash the tank, while closed, with fresh water and vinegar from the vent on deck...but it nevertheless happened to break !!

I understand how to remove the hose, but...

The problem I am facing is to remove (unscrew) the valve without breaking the seacock.

How can I seize the seacock to avoid distroying it while removing the valve itself ??
The seacock seems to be moulded in the plastic of the hull, without any thing beyond the moulding inside the boat in order to block it, , while unscewing the valve . A bit difficult to explain clearly with my limited English, but I hope you can grasp the point !!

Many Thanks and best wishes to both of you

Yves


BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-13
----- Message reçu -----
De : Anne and John Hollamby
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-12, 10:13:14
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Dear Yves and Marie Christine,
The same valve seized up years ago on my boat and I had to replace it even though I was not so strong as to be able to break the shaft. To replace the valve remove the shelf and the plastic pipe from the holding tank. You will find that it is best to make a vertical slash in it where it is stuck onto the tank and the valve with a razor knife. You will then be able to remove the damaged valve and fit a new one using proper sanitary hose.
It was not my favourite job especially as one inevitably gets on intimate terms with the WC pan !
I suppose that whilst the tube is open you should feel the inside to see whether you should do a descaling job as described by S/V Bebe in the archives.

Best wishes from Anne and John

----- Original Message -----
From: BM2
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Hello everybody,

I have a problem with the fore heads valve because I closed it for a very short time and when I wanted to reopen it, the handle shaft broke with the valve closed...although I operate it from time to time.

Fortunately, with a lot of efforts, I managed to open it with a Ezy-out left turn screw extractor.

Now I have to change it....without damaging the seacock., which does not seem to be easy !!

Although I cannot immagine I am the first one with this problem, I could not find a word about it on the forum, even with the search fuction, John,

Has anyone faced this problem?

All advices welcome

Regards

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2009-12-11




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St. Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal. They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86


eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

When I rebuilt my Tartan I changed all the through hulls.

There is a special tool that the boat yard had that fits inside the through
hull from the outside.

With a wrench attached to this tool it is held in place to prevent the
through hull from turning while the nut inside is turned.

Otherwise in my case the thru hull just turns and does not loosen.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K







Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K







Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Eric:

I just searched the West Marine web site and couldn't find that they had any parallel thread valves at all. Every valve on their web site was NPT (National Pipe Thread aka tapered).

As for the tool to prevent the through hull fitting from turning, did it just go into the fitting and then expand somehow to provide purchase (grip) or is there something on the fitting that it locked into?

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K







Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Gary when you look for those valves look for British pipe threads. You'll have more success

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Mar 6, 2012, at 12:00, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K

Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


eric <kimberlite@...>
 

Gary,

The valve is available from McMaster Carr. I know west has them also or can
special order them as I used them in my tartan they were brass and came from
Groco. I just Googled bspp ball valves and there were pages of them .
Grainger also carries them.



http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-ball-valves/=gjwobb



The through hulls that I used had a small fin on opposite sides of the
inside of the thru hulls and the tool locked onto these.
I do not know if it exists on the Amels.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 1:35 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K





Hi Eric:

I just searched the West Marine web site and couldn't find that they had any
parallel thread valves at all. Every valve on their web site was NPT
(National Pipe Thread aka tapered).

As for the tool to prevent the through hull fitting from turning, did it
just go into the fitting and then expand somehow to provide purchase (grip)
or is there something on the fitting that it locked into?

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Gary,

How does this thread compare to the straight thread (parallel) sold by
west
marine?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K







Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St.
Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British
Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from
Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel
ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) .
I
also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from
Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches
etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/
Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on
the
forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of
months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal.
They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National
Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference
fit
to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for
straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on
the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt
to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru
hull
pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have
already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional
information
please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@>
wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been
changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the
job
according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet
been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material
overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint.
There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe
and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression
(having
replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely
glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the
ball
valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it
is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do
them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I
would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a
plug
in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the
dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a
"string
saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before
rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and
worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle
of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational
force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like
Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help
establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the
boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to
bond
the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is
not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So
that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat
the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my
mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had
familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had
glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At
that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying
something
to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you
REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit
brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair
amount
of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often
need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make
comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or
"That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other
boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


BM2 <bluemarinemartin@...>
 

Bonjour Gary,

I waited until I was on the hard to do the replacement because I was a bit afraid of difficulties, which could arise.

I did it about 4/5 months ago and I am presently not on the boat; Nevertheless, I will try to be as precise as possible.

As a matter of facts, John and Bob were right; although it was not easy because of the lack of space, it was without any trouble; the job can be done totally from inside. Since the valve is above the waterline, it could even be done the boat being in the water; no need to seize anything from outside.
I did it without removing the bowl, but that could be a helping option, not too difficult (I did it once to change the broken base).

The first difficulty is to cut the polyester, which comes partly above the valve, overlapping the nut on the valve (in my case it was rather a lot). Be careful not to damage the nut if you use an electric tool like a file.

This done you have to remove the exhaust hose between the valve and the holding tank. Not easy because of the shelf (it prevents from bending the hose). Since there is a lot of valve connection inside, I eventually had to reduce a bit the length of the hose ,...but do not cut too much (~1 cm.). In case of too much trouble, the hose being stiff with the years, I contemplated to cut it completely and put a new one. You can also try heat.
With a lot of sweat, and swear, I succeeded.

Beyond this point it is easy: just unscrew the valve with a small handled spanner (really not much space!!); mine came out quite nicely/smoothly with just a light hammer shock/knock.

I hope my English is understandable and my explanation clear enough…otherwise do not hesitate to come back to me.

Good work

Sincerely,


Marie-Christine & Yves



PS : After a 10 years round the world sailing, Blue Marine (SM2K # 311) is now for sale.
Very well maintained then in very good condition. Lying south of France.


BM2,
bluemarinemartin@...
2012-03-11

----- Message reçu -----
De : amelliahona
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2012-03-06, 17:18:47
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Bon Jour Yves:

Did you succeed in replacing your holding tank outlet valves? I am in St. Martin and was able to purchase 1 1/4 inch Ball valves with BSPP (British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread) (described as European Threads) made from Marine Brass (the silver colored stuff) with teflon seals, stainless steel ball and aluminum handles for $US 43.50(Budget Marine PN SUA/408-1-1/4 ) . I also found an Ace Hardware store (mega store really) just up the hill from Budget Marine on Simpson Bay Lagoon) where I purchased some pipe wrenches etc.

see this link

http://www.budgetmarine.com/catalog/Plumbing/Valves/Non-tapered+Ball+Valves/Marine+Brass+Ball+Valves/product.aspx#SUA/408-1-1/4

I have yet to install them. I am going to attempt to install the one on the forward head while in the water when I get back to the boat in a couple of months. I will post about how it goes.

BSPP (straight pipe threads) are dependent on a sealant to achieve a seal. They are generally also easier to disassemble as compared to NPT (National Pipe Threads) which are tapered and depend upon a friction interference fit to achieve a seal. A good quality non- hardening sealant is best used for straight pipe threads as opposed to using teflon tape.

I plan on using an adjustable packing wrench to provide counter torque on the flats of the wrenchings of the "standpipe" thru hull pipe as I attempt to remove the valve. The last thing I want to do is break off the thru hull pipe or loosen it in its bedding compound or fiberglass.

I will post my experience when it occurs. In the meantime if you have already accomplished this repair and can provide any additional information please advise.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335
lying Sint Maarten - Oyster Pond Marina




--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour ,

Thank you for this detailed information. My valves have never been changed.

Since I managed to re-open it, I will wait to be on the hard to do the job according to your operating procedure.

Yves

BM2
bluemarinemartin@...
2010-04-17
----- Message reçu -----
De : rossirossix4
À : amelyachtowners
Date : 2010-04-14, 17:40:02
Sujet : Re: [Amel] Heads seacock on SM2K


Hi Yves,

Usually, if the ball valve looks like it is glassed over, it has not yet been replaced. If you look closely you should see that the material overlapping the valve is a relatively thin amount of gel coat and paint. There is a through hull fitting (not a seacock?), then a short stand pipe and the ball valve screws onto the top of this. It is my impression (having replaced 3 different valves) that while the stand pipe is very securely glassed in the gel coat/paint will not prevent you from unscrewing the ball valve.

I don't think anyone will tell you to unscrew it in the water because it is always safer to do it on the hard (and do all of them at once, and do them preventatively while you are on the hard). However, I can say that I would do it if it was not convenient to haul out. I would however fit a plug in the outlet while conducting the operation or be ready to plug from the dingy in case Murphey's law comes into effect.

In an earlier posting someone talks about using what I will call a "string saw"--they sell them for cutting PVC pipe--to score the gel coat before rotating the valve out. I did this but didn't make that much progress and worried about wearing the threads on the stand pipe.

I used a pipe wrench with a long 16" handle (or put a pipe on the handle of a shorter pipe wrench) and it eased off using considerable rotational force.

On reassembly you can use many winds of teflon tape or something like Life-Calk Sealant on the threads of the stand pipe. Either one will help establish a leak proof seal and aid in removal next time you replace one.

I'm not on my boat right now but I thought the valve was bonded to the boats ground. If you use a Marelon plastic ball valve you would need to bond the stand pipe and I think this would be difficult to do because there is not a gap between the ball valve and the pipe once you screw it on. So that's it.

Excuse this digression. I've got to tell this related story! On my boat the raw water intake to the engine is set up the same way. I was with my mechanic (who had not had previous experience with Amels but had familiarized himself with mine). I complained that it looked like Amel had glassed in the ball valve and not considered problems with replacement. At that point he became quite serious and even a bit emotional saying something to the effect of "Look at this boat and the way everything is done! Do you REALLY think that they would do that? No...no...no" and he went on a bit brow beating me. He was right, the valve eased right off with a fair amount of torque from the long pipe wrench. Like many Amel owners, I don't often need to have professionals do work for me, but when they do they make comments like "Its good to see a boat where they did things right" or "That's a very well thought out idea". I've even had them bring over other boat owners to show them how something should have been done.

Bob
Brittany de la Mer 1993 Santorin #86



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bonjour Yves & Marie-Christine:

I understood your post completely. Your English is excellent. Thanks for the detailed post, your information will be most valuable and reassuring.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "BM2"<bluemarinemartin@...> wrote:

Bonjour Gary,

I waited until I was on the hard to do the replacement because I was a bit afraid of difficulties, which could arise.

I did it about 4/5 months ago and I am presently not on the boat; Nevertheless, I will try to be as precise as possible.

As a matter of facts, John and Bob were right; although it was not easy because of the lack of space, it was without any trouble; the job can be done totally from inside. Since the valve is above the waterline, it could even be done the boat being in the water; no need to seize anything from outside.
I did it without removing the bowl, but that could be a helping option, not too difficult (I did it once to change the broken base).

The first difficulty is to cut the polyester, which comes partly above the valve, overlapping the nut on the valve (in my case it was rather a lot). Be careful not to damage the nut if you use an electric tool like a file.

This done you have to remove the exhaust hose between the valve and the holding tank. Not easy because of the shelf (it prevents from bending the hose). Since there is a lot of valve connection inside, I eventually had to reduce a bit the length of the hose ,...but do not cut too much (~1 cm.). In case of too much trouble, the hose being stiff with the years, I contemplated to cut it completely and put a new one. You can also try heat.
With a lot of sweat, and swear, I succeeded.

Beyond this point it is easy: just unscrew the valve with a small handled spanner (really not much space!!); mine came out quite nicely/smoothly with just a light hammer shock/knock.

I hope my English is understandable and my explanation clear enough…otherwise do not hesitate to come back to me.

Good work

Sincerely,


Marie-Christine & Yves