[Amel] SM2000 Bow Thruster Removal


bobparry1947
 

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill & Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

Personal Experience:
Go to this link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc

More info at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

My guess is that sea water is passing through the foam seals causing corrosion. When you get them lose, clean and use mass quantities of waterproof grease at the union.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@...> wrote:

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@...>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill & Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bill,

thanks for the suggestion. I will try the 'drop method'. Corrosion
Block market an anti corrosive grease that I will use when
re-assembling. Should be back in the water in 10 days. Weather too hot
to antifoul more than 3 hours a day.

The staff there are being wonderful. Arrived 11pm Sunday. There was a
man waiting on the dock signalling with a torch, security gate pass and
shore power organised, and a warm welcome. Not like Jounieh Beirut!

Hope you are having a great time.

Regards

Ian SM 2000 414 Crusader

On 17/07/2012 04:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Personal Experience:
Go to this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

More info at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

My guess is that sea water is passing through the foam seals causing
corrosion. When you get them lose, clean and use mass quantities of
waterproof grease at the union.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@...>
wrote:

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The
jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@...>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill &
Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bo & Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003

On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




bobparry1947
 

Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bo & Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

In my original posting I should have said that I used the drop method once on BeBe and once on another boat. One and a half years later while dropping the bow thruster in the water to replace a prop, I have no problems with sticking.

Good luck and I am glad to hear that things are going well at Karpaz. Be sure to say hello to Deniz and "Efe."

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Bill,

thanks for the suggestion. I will try the 'drop method'. Corrosion
Block market an anti corrosive grease that I will use when
re-assembling. Should be back in the water in 10 days. Weather too hot
to antifoul more than 3 hours a day.

The staff there are being wonderful. Arrived 11pm Sunday. There was a
man waiting on the dock signalling with a torch, security gate pass and
shore power organised, and a warm welcome. Not like Jounieh Beirut!

Hope you are having a great time.

Regards

Ian SM 2000 414 Crusader

On 17/07/2012 04:54, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

Ian,

Personal Experience:
Go to this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/549533960/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc>

More info at this link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/1587075684/pic/list

My guess is that sea water is passing through the foam seals causing
corrosion. When you get them lose, clean and use mass quantities of
waterproof grease at the union.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Selimye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@>
wrote:

We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The
jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader <sv_freespirit@>wrote:

**


I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill &
Judy).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor, but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines, then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003

On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill& Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




bobparry1947
 

Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,

thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft. To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again. Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean

On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




------------------------------------

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------------------------------------

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------------------------------------

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bobparry1947
 

Hi Ian,

We wondered how you were getting on. The bow thruster is certainly the most
frustrating piece of equipment. The anti-torque plate was on our boat when
we bought it in 2004 but had not been fitted (our bow thruster is from
1990). That tended to indicate that the bow thruster had not been serviced
for a while. It was fitted when we finally had the bow thruster serviced
and re-installed.

We found the drop method to be quite traumatic and decided to quit before
we did damage. We might try it again when (if) the need arises but we would
not persevere.

We found that there was no corrosion of the splines and our only problem
was corrosion of the motor base making it grip the tube.

We have followed the discussion of the seals with interest. The Turkish
mechanic replaced our seals with identical ones that he bought locally. We
sailed from Turkey to Australia without a drop of water entering until New
Caledonia. That included beating for a week into 15-20+ knots on our
passage from Panama to Galapagos. It will be interesting to see what has
happened to the seal to cause the problem.

As a point of interest, we unpin our bow thruster only when we are using it.

Kind regards,

Ann and Bob Parry

Nowornot, SM#33
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the
bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for
almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure
way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success
we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and
remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox
and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end
of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward
pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it
about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the
securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No
turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The
end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse
this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have
corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw
the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the
prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped
down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble
but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite
being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft.
To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the
motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two
prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that
does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that
it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this
plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my
sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made
modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you
don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two
reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and
tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort
and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in
though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the
thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot
bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the
motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we
got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the
means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little
rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made
too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully
home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower
bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using
my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to
seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion
grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass
repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again.
Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to
run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove
it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was
almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean


On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like
mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short
fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in
Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push
against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and
they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop
inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say
we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind
me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued
to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed
the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi you've done well. In the event you can not get the unit our buy 8-10 mm thick wet suit material using a hole saw the approx size of the tube make new seals for outside the hull. Slit the material on an angle and glue them in place with the slits at 12:00 and 0600 that should work. Do the same with the one inside and keep THE PIN IN WHEN NOT IN USE.

Regards SM 209 for sale at a deal in Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 28, 2012, at 3:24, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Ian,

We wondered how you were getting on. The bow thruster is certainly the most
frustrating piece of equipment. The anti-torque plate was on our boat when
we bought it in 2004 but had not been fitted (our bow thruster is from
1990). That tended to indicate that the bow thruster had not been serviced
for a while. It was fitted when we finally had the bow thruster serviced
and re-installed.

We found the drop method to be quite traumatic and decided to quit before
we did damage. We might try it again when (if) the need arises but we would
not persevere.

We found that there was no corrosion of the splines and our only problem
was corrosion of the motor base making it grip the tube.

We have followed the discussion of the seals with interest. The Turkish
mechanic replaced our seals with identical ones that he bought locally. We
sailed from Turkey to Australia without a drop of water entering until New
Caledonia. That included beating for a week into 15-20+ knots on our
passage from Panama to Galapagos. It will be interesting to see what has
happened to the seal to cause the problem.

As a point of interest, we unpin our bow thruster only when we are using it.

Kind regards,

Ann and Bob Parry

Nowornot, SM#33
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the
bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for
almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure
way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success
we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and
remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox
and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end
of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward
pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it
about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the
securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No
turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The
end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse
this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have
corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw
the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the
prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped
down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble
but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite
being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft.
To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the
motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two
prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that
does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that
it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this
plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my
sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made
modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you
don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two
reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and
tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort
and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in
though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the
thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot
bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the
motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we
got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the
means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little
rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made
too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully
home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower
bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using
my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to
seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion
grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass
repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again.
Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to
run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove
it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was
almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean


On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like
mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short
fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in
Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push
against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and
they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop
inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say
we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind
me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued
to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed
the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

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Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Bob,

I agree. The bow thruster is the Achilles Heel of an otherwise fine boat. Nothing else in 58 years of sailing has brought me closer to to quitting.

Interesting that your point of stiction was also at the tube to motor housing joint. It begs the question as to whether it would be worth while opening up the housing some more and gluing a plastic sleeve to the inside of the motor so that the tube will be sliding into a non metallic rust free opening? Hopefully, having ground the motor casing hole to a larger size and adding anti corrosion grease, my problems will not happen again easily, but if they do, then I may try to do something more positive about it as outlined above.

Like you, I keep my thruster pinned when not in use. Regarding the tube to trunk seal, it is interesting that Amel supplied a spring-less lip seal. I guess they reason that the spring won't last long facing downwards to the sea.

Wishing you trouble free maintenance and dry bilges.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003 LOcation Eastern Med

On 28/07/2012 07:24, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

We wondered how you were getting on. The bow thruster is certainly the most
frustrating piece of equipment. The anti-torque plate was on our boat when
we bought it in 2004 but had not been fitted (our bow thruster is from
1990). That tended to indicate that the bow thruster had not been serviced
for a while. It was fitted when we finally had the bow thruster serviced
and re-installed.

We found the drop method to be quite traumatic and decided to quit before
we did damage. We might try it again when (if) the need arises but we would
not persevere.

We found that there was no corrosion of the splines and our only problem
was corrosion of the motor base making it grip the tube.

We have followed the discussion of the seals with interest. The Turkish
mechanic replaced our seals with identical ones that he bought locally. We
sailed from Turkey to Australia without a drop of water entering until New
Caledonia. That included beating for a week into 15-20+ knots on our
passage from Panama to Galapagos. It will be interesting to see what has
happened to the seal to cause the problem.

As a point of interest, we unpin our bow thruster only when we are using it.

Kind regards,

Ann and Bob Parry

Nowornot, SM#33
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the
bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other lubes for
almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure
way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success
we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and
remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox
and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end
of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward
pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did move it
about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the
securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No
turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The
end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse
this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have
corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw
the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the
prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped
down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble
but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite
being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft.
To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the
motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two
prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that
does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that
it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this
plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my
sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made
modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you
don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two
reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate prongs and
tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of effort
and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in
though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the
thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot
bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the
motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we
got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the
means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little
rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just made
too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully
home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor lower
bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using
my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to
seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion
grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass
repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again.
Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to
run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove
it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was
almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean


On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like
mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short
fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in
Cyprus.
As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push
against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and
they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop
inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage. Dare say
we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please remind
me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is glued
to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed
the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack. The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links




Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Richard,

luckily I am well stocked with seals. But I like your idea which is well
timed as there are two old wet suits of mine on the floor behind me that
I was going to throw out tomorrow. I will cut some material off and keep
it on board just in case.

I will be refitting the bow thruster Monday once the anti fouling work
is complete and launching Tuesday.

Good luck with the sale. What next?

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

On 28/07/2012 16:01, Richard03801 wrote:

Hi you've done well. In the event you can not get the unit our buy
8-10 mm thick wet suit material using a hole saw the approx size of
the tube make new seals for outside the hull. Slit the material on an
angle and glue them in place with the slits at 12:00 and 0600 that
should work. Do the same with the one inside and keep THE PIN IN WHEN
NOT IN USE.

Regards SM 209 for sale at a deal in Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 28, 2012, at 3:24, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@gmail.com
<mailto:ra.parry2%40gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Ian,

We wondered how you were getting on. The bow thruster is certainly
the most
frustrating piece of equipment. The anti-torque plate was on our
boat when
we bought it in 2004 but had not been fitted (our bow thruster is from
1990). That tended to indicate that the bow thruster had not been
serviced
for a while. It was fitted when we finally had the bow thruster serviced
and re-installed.

We found the drop method to be quite traumatic and decided to quit
before
we did damage. We might try it again when (if) the need arises but
we would
not persevere.

We found that there was no corrosion of the splines and our only problem
was corrosion of the motor base making it grip the tube.

We have followed the discussion of the seals with interest. The Turkish
mechanic replaced our seals with identical ones that he bought
locally. We
sailed from Turkey to Australia without a drop of water entering
until New
Caledonia. That included beating for a week into 15-20+ knots on our
passage from Panama to Galapagos. It will be interesting to see what has
happened to the seal to cause the problem.

As a point of interest, we unpin our bow thruster only when we are
using it.

Kind regards,

Ann and Bob Parry

Nowornot, SM#33
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the
bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other
lubes for
almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure
way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success
we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and
remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox
and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end
of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward
pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did
move it
about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the
securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No
turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The
end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse
this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have
corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw
the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the
prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped
down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble
but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite
being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft.
To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the
motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two
prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that
does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that
it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this
plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my
sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made
modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you
don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two
reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate
prongs and
tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of
effort
and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in
though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the
thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot
bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the
motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we
got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the
means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little
rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just
made
too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully
home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor
lower
bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using
my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to
seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion
grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass
repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again.
Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to
run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove
it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was
almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean


On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like
mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short
fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia
but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to
the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated
pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in
Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the
motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the
splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the
inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor
locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my
sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that
drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to
see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three
years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was
used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push
against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and
they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the
motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop
inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump
in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from
Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last
leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage.
Dare say
we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the
foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please
remind
me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is
glued
to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and
up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed
the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack.
The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel
rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I
have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time
it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without
doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links









------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi thanks Due to some personal matters we are selling her there will. E another Amel before long.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 28, 2012, at 15:27, Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Richard,

luckily I am well stocked with seals. But I like your idea which is well
timed as there are two old wet suits of mine on the floor behind me that
I was going to throw out tomorrow. I will cut some material off and keep
it on board just in case.

I will be refitting the bow thruster Monday once the anti fouling work
is complete and launching Tuesday.

Good luck with the sale. What next?

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

On 28/07/2012 16:01, Richard03801 wrote:

Hi you've done well. In the event you can not get the unit our buy
8-10 mm thick wet suit material using a hole saw the approx size of
the tube make new seals for outside the hull. Slit the material on an
angle and glue them in place with the slits at 12:00 and 0600 that
should work. Do the same with the one inside and keep THE PIN IN WHEN
NOT IN USE.

Regards SM 209 for sale at a deal in Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Jul 28, 2012, at 3:24, Bob Parry <ra.parry2@gmail.com
<mailto:ra.parry2%40gmail.com>> wrote:

Hi Ian,

We wondered how you were getting on. The bow thruster is certainly
the most
frustrating piece of equipment. The anti-torque plate was on our
boat when
we bought it in 2004 but had not been fitted (our bow thruster is from
1990). That tended to indicate that the bow thruster had not been
serviced
for a while. It was fitted when we finally had the bow thruster serviced
and re-installed.

We found the drop method to be quite traumatic and decided to quit
before
we did damage. We might try it again when (if) the need arises but
we would
not persevere.

We found that there was no corrosion of the splines and our only problem
was corrosion of the motor base making it grip the tube.

We have followed the discussion of the seals with interest. The Turkish
mechanic replaced our seals with identical ones that he bought
locally. We
sailed from Turkey to Australia without a drop of water entering
until New
Caledonia. That included beating for a week into 15-20+ knots on our
passage from Panama to Galapagos. It will be interesting to see what has
happened to the seal to cause the problem.

As a point of interest, we unpin our bow thruster only when we are
using it.

Kind regards,

Ann and Bob Parry

Nowornot, SM#33
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 10:35 PM, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>>wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

it did not go well. In fact it took one and a half days to remove the
bow thruster despite being soaked in Corrosion Block and other
lubes for
almost a week before we tried to remove it. Here is the saga and a sure
way to get it out next time.

First we tried the drop method mentioned on this site. The only success
we had with this technique was to splinter the trunk fibreglass and
remove the skin off my hands!

Then we tied one end of a rope to the thruster just above the gearbox
and tied the other end to a 6 foot steel square sectioned tube. One end
of the tube tucked under the forward hull support trestle. Downward
pressure and several persuasive beatings with a wooden block did
move it
about 3/16th of an inch but no further. Just enough in fact so that the
securing pins would not go back in, leaving the boat unusable. No
turning back now. More solvent, more beatings but no more movement. The
end of the day came and I retired to bed to lick my wounds and curse
this bow thruster even more than I have in the past.

Next morning, thinking that the splines on the drive shaft must have
corroded, I decided to dismantle the gearbox so that we could withdraw
the tube downwards and the motor and shaft upwards. Having removed the
prop shaft and major planet gear wheel, the drive shaft then dropped
down an inch, so obviously it was not the splines causing the trouble
but the fibre tube stuck to the inside of the motor housing despite
being well greased as were the splines when I last serviced the unit.

It was now clear that we had to twist the motor relative to the shaft.
To do this, we removed the ant-torque plate from the underside of the
motor and repositioned it 90 degrees anticlockwise so that the two
prongs faced aft into the cabin. (You will have to move the bolt that
does not hold the plate to the motor one step anticlockwise too so that
it aligns with the hole in the plate). - For those who do not have this
plate, then you are out of luck. It was added to the design after my
sinking to stop the bow thruster tube failing. Amel rightly made
modification kits for all SM's fitted with the larger motor, and if you
don't have one, then I would thoroughly recommend getting one. For two
reasons now.

We found a 3 foot tube that fitted over the anti-torque plate
prongs and
tried to twist the motor against the tube. After a huge amount of
effort
and and extension bar, we moved it a little then sprayed more lube in
though the locking pin holes. Gradually it freed up some more, but the
thruster still refused to pull free despite the leverage of the 6 foot
bar beneath. After many futile attempts I got the mechanic to twist the
motor whilst I put all of my weight on the bar below and eventually we
got the bow thruster out. This method will work, providing you have the
means to twist the motor.

Examination of the tube revealed no pitting and there was very little
rust on the inside of the motor housing. I believe that it was just
made
too tight. It always was very difficult to locate the tube in the fully
home position in the motor housing. There was no rust on the motor
lower
bearing, or the splines, both being well greased.

As a precaution I have ground out the inside of the motor housing using
my Dremmel so that the fit is now more agricultural and less prone to
seizure. I will also reassemble it with Corrosion Block anti corrosion
grease instead of plain water proof grease once the trunk fibreglass
repair is complete. Hopefully such a nightmare will not happen again.
Maybe a contributary factor is that since modifying the bow thruster to
run in grease with sealed bearings, it has not been necessary to remove
it so frequently to get rid of the mayonnaise. The last removal was
almost three years ago. (See next post).

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 Built 2003 Location Mediterranean


On 18/07/2012 08:17, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

Good luck with it. As you can imagine, the oil in ours was like
mayonnaise.
It still worked well and sounded fine but it was probably on a short
fuse.
We don't know why it started to leak on our way from New Caledonia
but it
seems logical that the seal was somehow damaged when we went to
the fuel
dock. Up until then, it had been bone dry.

Hope all goes well. We will be interested to hear how it went.

Regards,

Ann and Bob
Nowornot SM#33

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:46 PM, Ian Shepherd
<sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**


Hi Bob,

I was joking when I said lift the foredeck of course! I was just
imagining the car jack trying to lift it up as it generated
pressure. I
hope to start work on the thruster next Saturday when I am back in
Cyprus.

As I have filled my thruster with grease instead of oil, it would be
possible to do all the servicing without disconnecting from the
motor,
but I know that if I don't get it apart now and re-grease the
splines,
then I probably never will. Thanks for the reminder on the neoprene
seal. I will have a good look at that too.

On my first SM I built a rubber dam around the entry area to the
inside
of the boat and fitted drain tubes that connected to the anchor
locker
drain pipe. This reduced considerably the amount of water ending up
under the floor adjacent to the forward heads.

When the thruster arrangement was re-designed following my
sinking, the
later boats have a watertight compartment for the thruster that
drains
into the chain locker pipe. End of problem.

I will post my findings when I have dismantled the thruster to
see how
the grease worked out. Audibly, it seems fine after almost three
years
of use using grease.

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 09:20, Bob Parry wrote:
Hi Ian,

I don't know what you have envisaged about the process that was
used in
Yalikivak but we DID NOT remove the foredeck. They removed the bow
thruster
motor to give room to move at the top of the bow thruster (motor was
dismantled) and the whole thing was supported under the boat push
against
the action of the jack. The bow thruster was in the up position and
they
jacked the top section upwards, hence the need to remove the
motor. We
had
the boat for 5 years before we managed to get it fixed. We had tried
everything including the drop method with the only result being
consternation among other people in the boat yard.

We have a rubber seal as well as the foam ones. It is similar to the
seals
used in irrigation systems and it has the "open" side down to stop
inflow
of water. Ours had become so bad that we had to put a bulge pump
in the
bilge outside the forward head. We have since travelled from
Turkey to
Brisbane in Australia and had no water come in until the last
leg from
New
Caledonia. It appears that the seal has suffered some damage.
Dare say
we
will find out during our next haul out.

Regards,

Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Ian Shepherd<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**


Hi Bo& Ann,
thanks for the info. I will try Bill's drop suggestion first before
trying to lift the foredeck! I presume by seal you mean the
foam seals
that go around the shaft? There is a correct way to fit them as I
believe that one side is harder than the other. Can you please
remind
me
of the correct way round? I would assume that the hard side is
glued
to
the top and bottom of the hole and the soft side faces down and
up? Or
is it the other way round?

Regards

Ian SM 414 Crusader Built 2003


On 17/07/2012 00:32, Bob Parry wrote:
We had the same problem on our 1990 Super Maramu. It was finally
fixed
by
an Englishman and his Turkish assistant in Yalikavak. They removed
the
motor to give room at the top and used a hydraulic car jack.
The jack
was
inside the boat and the Turkish assistant supported the bottom
outside
the
boat. It took a bit of effort but it worked. Whoever serviced it
before
we
bought the boat had put a seal in upside down and the steel
rim had
corroded and was holding the fibreglass? tube in a vice-like grip.

Good luck with it.
Ann and Bob Parry
Nowornot SM#33 in Brisbane

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 6:38 AM, sv_crusader<
sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk <mailto:sv_freespirit%40yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

**

I am having difficulty removing my bow thruster to service it. It
seems
well and truly stuck when I try to pull it out of the boat. I
have
sprayed
the tube/motor housing connection with Corrosion Block and other
products
in the hope that it will free up in a few days, but I suspect the
shaft
splines may be corroded despite greasing them the last time
it was
assembled.

Has anyone discovered a way of freeing up the unit without
doing any
damage? The boat is on the hard (at your last haul out spot Bill&
Judy).
Ian Shepherd SM2000 414 Crusader Built 2003 Med





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