I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Eric,
There is an internal regulator..there has to be othere wise you wouldn't get a constant voltage.
This is how internally regulated alternators work...they run at (in our case) 28 odd volts all the time...the current falls off as the batts get charged....problem with that is that over a long running time (like we motored 54 hours from Noumea to Port Vila last week) it stays at 28 odd volts and this will lead to the batteries gassing..i.e. boiling off electrolyte...too much of this will eventually kill VRLA batteries (like AGM or sealed calcium etc).

What we need is to modify the alternator to remove the internal regulator...which is not so easy on these Leece Neville / Prestolite alternators as they are N-type, (which means the reg is on the negative side) and wire an external 3 stage reg. External regs are nearly ALL P-Type.
I'm having some discussion now with a tech from Leece Neville about how to do this.

There's nothing wrong with the Balmar external regs...but my choice would be Next Step from AmplePower...they make a number of different types, but the scenario for most (including Balmar) is :

1. Reg off when engine starts so no load on the alternator.
2. After 30 secs, reg gently loads up the alternator until its at either full output, or the max the battery bank will accept.
3. This "full" output current continues until the voltage reaches the absorption voltage (preset) say 28.8 Volts for a 24v bank.
4. the reg slowly backs off the field drive to the alternator to maintain the voltage at the absorption level
5. After a preset time or when current has reached a preset percentage (say 5-10%) of the banks Ah capacity, the reg switches to float...approx. 26.6 V

This ensures that the house batteries are properly charged and prevents gassing.

This is the way the Doplhin chargers work also...so, much better to charge the batts with the genset than the engine in it's standard configuration.

When I get all this figured out with this peculiar N-reg Leece Neville alternator, I'll post the details so everyone can do it.

I don't like the idea of the batteries sitting at 28.8V for days...it's not good for them !

Cheers
Alan
SV ELYSE SM437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Eric,
I was hoping that you would post your findings re. you alternator. We are now at the bottom of The Sea of Cortez and hope to get some good technical help in Mazatlan next week. For now we are running on four remaining house batteries. The alternator has been putting out between 28.1 volts to 28.6 volts the remaining batteries have not overheated.
I have the original Dolphin instruction paperwork from 2004. The 30amp charger should boost at 27.7 volts and float at 26.5, the 100amp boost 28.8 and float at 27.2.
However both pieces of paper ( and that is literally what came with the boat) state

"The charger system will revert to boost when the battery system requirements equal 50% of the charger rated output"

My reading of this is that in our case with twelve house batteries giving 630 amps at 24 volts then the 30 amp reverts to boost when the batteries drop below 97% of total capacity.

My 30amp charger now only produces 27.3 volts, I have asked Reya for advice and haven't had a reply as yet.
I suspect the answer lies in a total replacement of both chargers with a smart charger and of course a new set of batteries. From everything that I have been reading, common sense would indicate AGM and completely disconnect them when leaving the boat for long periods.
The entire subject is a black art and I suspect in my case choices will be heavily influenced by what is available in Mexico.
Best regards,
Trevor
Sea Fever





--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am very interested in this as I fitted one to my last boat - it involved some modifications to the alternator and I had to be more vigilant about keeping the belt very tight, but it ran without fault for the 8 years that we had our last boat. I installed a regulator from sterling power see http://www.sterling-power.com/images/downloads/proreg.pdf . Although the instructions that come with it would not win any design prizes, they were very informative about the setup and also how to modify the alternator also they work for both N-type and P-Type alternator regulators.
I was surprised in some ways that a similar regulator is not fitted to the Amel SM - but had also wondered if there was a good reason why not? Anyway I think I plan to install one sometime soon.

Andrew
Ronpische SM 472

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k" <divanz620@> wrote:

Eric,
There is an internal regulator..there has to be othere wise you wouldn't get a constant voltage.
This is how internally regulated alternators work...they run at (in our case) 28 odd volts all the time...the current falls off as the batts get charged....problem with that is that over a long running time (like we motored 54 hours from Noumea to Port Vila last week) it stays at 28 odd volts and this will lead to the batteries gassing..i.e. boiling off electrolyte...too much of this will eventually kill VRLA batteries (like AGM or sealed calcium etc).

What we need is to modify the alternator to remove the internal regulator...which is not so easy on these Leece Neville / Prestolite alternators as they are N-type, (which means the reg is on the negative side) and wire an external 3 stage reg. External regs are nearly ALL P-Type.
I'm having some discussion now with a tech from Leece Neville about how to do this.

There's nothing wrong with the Balmar external regs...but my choice would be Next Step from AmplePower...they make a number of different types, but the scenario for most (including Balmar) is :

1. Reg off when engine starts so no load on the alternator.
2. After 30 secs, reg gently loads up the alternator until its at either full output, or the max the battery bank will accept.
3. This "full" output current continues until the voltage reaches the absorption voltage (preset) say 28.8 Volts for a 24v bank.
4. the reg slowly backs off the field drive to the alternator to maintain the voltage at the absorption level
5. After a preset time or when current has reached a preset percentage (say 5-10%) of the banks Ah capacity, the reg switches to float...approx. 26.6 V

This ensures that the house batteries are properly charged and prevents gassing.

This is the way the Doplhin chargers work also...so, much better to charge the batts with the genset than the engine in it's standard configuration.

When I get all this figured out with this peculiar N-reg Leece Neville alternator, I'll post the details so everyone can do it.

I don't like the idea of the batteries sitting at 28.8V for days...it's not good for them !

Cheers
Alan
SV ELYSE SM437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

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Try a free scan!

Hi Andrew,

The reason you need to keep the belts tight is that shortly after start up the alt is putting out max current..these alts are 175A...which at 24 V = 4.2kW = 5.6Hp..that's quite a lot of power !!

I don't know anything about Sterling regs, but looking at their instructions they appear a little simplistic, although verbose at the the same time.
I'm not so sure about their rewiring descriptions for N alts.

The big difference between P alts and N alts is that in N alts there are field diodes (aka diode trio) that supply current to the internal voltage reg.
ALL external regs are P-type so N alts need to be internally rewired to deal with this, which as far as I can work out, involves removing the diode trio and then grounding one side of the rotor (field) and connecting the other side of the rotor (field) to the field connection at the external reg...

BUT I'm awaiting confirmation of that from a techo at Leece Neville, before I start to tear down the alternator.


But in essence, yes we need a proper external 3 stage reg to deal with this, and my only thoughts as to why Amel didn't do this is are
1. They didn't understand it
2. They didn't anticipate Amels motoring for days

Cheers
Alan
Elyse
SM437
--- In amelyachtowners@..., "ronpische" <andrew@> wrote:

I am very interested in this as I fitted one to my last boat - it involved some modifications to the alternator and I had to be more vigilant about keeping the belt very tight, but it ran without fault for the 8 years that we had our last boat. I installed a regulator from sterling power see http://www.sterling-power.com/images/downloads/proreg.pdf . Although the instructions that come with it would not win any design prizes, they were very informative about the setup and also how to modify the alternator also they work for both N-type and P-Type alternator regulators.
I was surprised in some ways that a similar regulator is not fitted to the Amel SM - but had also wondered if there was a good reason why not? Anyway I think I plan to install one sometime soon.

Andrew
Ronpische SM 472

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k" <divanz620@> wrote:

Eric,
There is an internal regulator..there has to be othere wise you wouldn't get a constant voltage.
This is how internally regulated alternators work...they run at (in our case) 28 odd volts all the time...the current falls off as the batts get charged....problem with that is that over a long running time (like we motored 54 hours from Noumea to Port Vila last week) it stays at 28 odd volts and this will lead to the batteries gassing..i.e. boiling off electrolyte...too much of this will eventually kill VRLA batteries (like AGM or sealed calcium etc).

What we need is to modify the alternator to remove the internal regulator...which is not so easy on these Leece Neville / Prestolite alternators as they are N-type, (which means the reg is on the negative side) and wire an external 3 stage reg. External regs are nearly ALL P-Type.
I'm having some discussion now with a tech from Leece Neville about how to do this.

There's nothing wrong with the Balmar external regs...but my choice would be Next Step from AmplePower...they make a number of different types, but the scenario for most (including Balmar) is :

1. Reg off when engine starts so no load on the alternator.
2. After 30 secs, reg gently loads up the alternator until its at either full output, or the max the battery bank will accept.
3. This "full" output current continues until the voltage reaches the absorption voltage (preset) say 28.8 Volts for a 24v bank.
4. the reg slowly backs off the field drive to the alternator to maintain the voltage at the absorption level
5. After a preset time or when current has reached a preset percentage (say 5-10%) of the banks Ah capacity, the reg switches to float...approx. 26.6 V

This ensures that the house batteries are properly charged and prevents gassing.

This is the way the Doplhin chargers work also...so, much better to charge the batts with the genset than the engine in it's standard configuration.

When I get all this figured out with this peculiar N-reg Leece Neville alternator, I'll post the details so everyone can do it.

I don't like the idea of the batteries sitting at 28.8V for days...it's not good for them !

Cheers
Alan
SV ELYSE SM437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Trevor,

At 28.1-28.6V you are probably OK...its when it stays at 28.8V for days that I think there is a problem re gassing the batteries and ultimately battery failure
But WHY your alt puts out 28.1-28.6V is a bit of a mystery when the standard internal reg is set for 28.8

The Dolphin chargers re SMART chargers, I don't know why the 30 and 100 A docs would be different...its really a case of whether or not the charger can keep up with the load imposed on it.

As to why Amel didn't buy an externally regulated alt to put in the Maramus...well...my only thought is that they didn't understand well how batteries need to be charged

BUT, having said that, the system we have is perfectly OK..UNLESS we motor for long periods...like I did..54 hours last week.

I don't agree that it's a "black art"..I think that there is a lot of "bad" information out there.

I have more than 15 years experience with different alternators, chargers, batteries, in different boats and I think I understand the best way to do it...and that is DEFINITELY NOT to have a 28.8V internal reg in the alternator !

Hence I am trying to find a way to externally reg this 175A beast that we have, properly !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse
SM#437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Hi Eric,
I was hoping that you would post your findings re. you alternator. We are now at the bottom of The Sea of Cortez and hope to get some good technical help in Mazatlan next week. For now we are running on four remaining house batteries. The alternator has been putting out between 28.1 volts to 28.6 volts the remaining batteries have not overheated.
I have the original Dolphin instruction paperwork from 2004. The 30amp charger should boost at 27.7 volts and float at 26.5, the 100amp boost 28.8 and float at 27.2.
However both pieces of paper ( and that is literally what came with the boat) state

"The charger system will revert to boost when the battery system requirements equal 50% of the charger rated output"

My reading of this is that in our case with twelve house batteries giving 630 amps at 24 volts then the 30 amp reverts to boost when the batteries drop below 97% of total capacity.

My 30amp charger now only produces 27.3 volts, I have asked Reya for advice and haven't had a reply as yet.
I suspect the answer lies in a total replacement of both chargers with a smart charger and of course a new set of batteries. From everything that I have been reading, common sense would indicate AGM and completely disconnect them when leaving the boat for long periods.
The entire subject is a black art and I suspect in my case choices will be heavily influenced by what is available in Mexico.
Best regards,
Trevor
Sea Fever





--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dear Alan and Richard,
Thank you both for you help. I now have a reply from Dolphin stating that my original chargers are fine but suggesting that things have moved on and promoting their Dolphin Pro series!
Specification and information on Leece Neville alternator regulator model 8RL 3021 has proven impossible to find other than the manufacturer upgraded them from 2006 to stop customers self adjusting them.
In the final analysis I am always reluctant to change anything that was designed and fitted by Amel. I think that Richard is correct with upgrading to a smart charger when availability finances allow and replacing with lead acid batteries.
Kind regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever
SM 425
Mexico

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k" <divanz620@> wrote:

Hi Trevor,

At 28.1-28.6V you are probably OK...its when it stays at 28.8V for days that I think there is a problem re gassing the batteries and ultimately battery failure
But WHY your alt puts out 28.1-28.6V is a bit of a mystery when the standard internal reg is set for 28.8

The Dolphin chargers re SMART chargers, I don't know why the 30 and 100 A docs would be different...its really a case of whether or not the charger can keep up with the load imposed on it.

As to why Amel didn't buy an externally regulated alt to put in the Maramus...well...my only thought is that they didn't understand well how batteries need to be charged

BUT, having said that, the system we have is perfectly OK..UNLESS we motor for long periods...like I did..54 hours last week.

I don't agree that it's a "black art"..I think that there is a lot of "bad" information out there.

I have more than 15 years experience with different alternators, chargers, batteries, in different boats and I think I understand the best way to do it...and that is DEFINITELY NOT to have a 28.8V internal reg in the alternator !

Hence I am trying to find a way to externally reg this 175A beast that we have, properly !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse
SM#437

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "seafeverofcuan" <seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Hi Eric,
I was hoping that you would post your findings re. you alternator. We are now at the bottom of The Sea of Cortez and hope to get some good technical help in Mazatlan next week. For now we are running on four remaining house batteries. The alternator has been putting out between 28.1 volts to 28.6 volts the remaining batteries have not overheated.
I have the original Dolphin instruction paperwork from 2004. The 30amp charger should boost at 27.7 volts and float at 26.5, the 100amp boost 28.8 and float at 27.2.
However both pieces of paper ( and that is literally what came with the boat) state

"The charger system will revert to boost when the battery system requirements equal 50% of the charger rated output"

My reading of this is that in our case with twelve house batteries giving 630 amps at 24 volts then the 30 amp reverts to boost when the batteries drop below 97% of total capacity.

My 30amp charger now only produces 27.3 volts, I have asked Reya for advice and haven't had a reply as yet.
I suspect the answer lies in a total replacement of both chargers with a smart charger and of course a new set of batteries. From everything that I have been reading, common sense would indicate AGM and completely disconnect them when leaving the boat for long periods.
The entire subject is a black art and I suspect in my case choices will be heavily influenced by what is available in Mexico.
Best regards,
Trevor
Sea Fever





--- In amelyachtowners@..., Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and the
owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal regulation.
However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of the
bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has a
constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart regulator is a
waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries for 4
years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the charger. I
will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




_____

I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com/len>
.
SPAMfighter has removed 1472 of my spam emails to date.

Do you have a slow PC? <http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen>
Try a free scan!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I saw on my spare 175 amp alternator that is has a label stating for use on
Cummins diesels.

Cummins diesels are used in commercial trucks and power plants. My
alternator fellow ( second generation) says that a constant output of 28.5
volts is not a problem as trucks run for days and power plants work for
months without burning up their battery banks.



I will stick with Amels original idea of the stock alternator. As I
previously said, I had no problem with it for 4 years and I motored a lot. I
believe my problem is the charger.



I get new batteries Monday and will keep you posted. I also leave the boat
hooked into shore power for weeks at a time some times. I believe that was
part of my problem. I am discontinuing this practice.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of seafeverofcuan
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2013 10:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: 175 amp alternator on SM-burned up battery bank.





Dear Alan and Richard,
Thank you both for you help. I now have a reply from Dolphin stating that my
original chargers are fine but suggesting that things have moved on and
promoting their Dolphin Pro series!
Specification and information on Leece Neville alternator regulator model
8RL 3021 has proven impossible to find other than the manufacturer upgraded
them from 2006 to stop customers self adjusting them.
In the final analysis I am always reluctant to change anything that was
designed and fitted by Amel. I think that Richard is correct with upgrading
to a smart charger when availability finances allow and replacing with lead
acid batteries.
Kind regards,
Trevor

Sea Fever
SM 425
Mexico

--- In amelyachtowners@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "alan_leslie_elyes_sm2k"
<divanz620@> wrote:

Hi Trevor,

At 28.1-28.6V you are probably OK...its when it stays at 28.8V for days

that I think there is a problem re gassing the batteries and ultimately
battery failure

But WHY your alt puts out 28.1-28.6V is a bit of a mystery when the

standard internal reg is set for 28.8

The Dolphin chargers re SMART chargers, I don't know why the 30 and 100 A

docs would be different...its really a case of whether or not the charger
can keep up with the load imposed on it.

As to why Amel didn't buy an externally regulated alt to put in the

Maramus...well...my only thought is that they didn't understand well how
batteries need to be charged

BUT, having said that, the system we have is perfectly OK..UNLESS we motor

for long periods...like I did..54 hours last week.

I don't agree that it's a "black art"..I think that there is a lot of

"bad" information out there.

I have more than 15 years experience with different alternators, chargers,

batteries, in different boats and I think I understand the best way to do
it...and that is DEFINITELY NOT to have a 28.8V internal reg in the
alternator !

Hence I am trying to find a way to externally reg this 175A beast that we

have, properly !

Cheers
Alan
Elyse
SM#437

--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "seafeverofcuan"
<seafeverofcuan@> wrote:

Hi Eric,
I was hoping that you would post your findings re. you alternator. We

are now at the bottom of The Sea of Cortez and hope to get some good
technical help in Mazatlan next week. For now we are running on four
remaining house batteries. The alternator has been putting out between 28.1
volts to 28.6 volts the remaining batteries have not overheated.

I have the original Dolphin instruction paperwork from 2004. The 30amp

charger should boost at 27.7 volts and float at 26.5, the 100amp boost 28.8
and float at 27.2.

However both pieces of paper ( and that is literally what came with the

boat) state

"The charger system will revert to boost when the battery system

requirements equal 50% of the charger rated output"

My reading of this is that in our case with twelve house batteries

giving 630 amps at 24 volts then the 30 amp reverts to boost when the
batteries drop below 97% of total capacity.

My 30amp charger now only produces 27.3 volts, I have asked Reya for

advice and haven't had a reply as yet.

I suspect the answer lies in a total replacement of both chargers with a

smart charger and of course a new set of batteries. From everything that I
have been reading, common sense would indicate AGM and completely disconnect
them when leaving the boat for long periods.

The entire subject is a black art and I suspect in my case choices will

be heavily influenced by what is available in Mexico.

Best regards,
Trevor
Sea Fever





--- In amelyachtowners@...

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailorman <kimberlite@> wrote:

I had my alternator checked at a very excellent alternator shop and

the

owner showed me what happens as it runs. There is no internal

regulation.

However he said as the battery becomes more charged the resistance of

the

bank increases and the alternator puts out less and less amps . It has

a

constant output of about 28.5 volts. He said the Balmar smart

regulator is a

waste of money -and he sells them.





I had no problems with this alternator with my first set of batteries

for 4

years. I only changed the batteries after a lightning strike.



My current burned out battery bank must have been caused by the

charger. I

will test it when I get my new batteries next week.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite




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