[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Electrolysis


karkauai
 

Interesting, Trevor.  Thanks for educating us.  While I do understand and suspected this was the case, it would be nice if I/we could get answers to questions like mine.
I have no problem getting proprietary parts from Amel.  I do wish that they were a bit more responsive.
Thanks again to all of you who fill so much of that gap.

Happy New Year!
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Jan 1, 2015, at 9:57 AM, seafeverofcuan@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Dear Kent,

                Happy new year. Something to always keep in mind when dealing with Amel is the very structure of the enterprise is like our boats, unique. Amel is a co-operative. That was the Captain's legacy to his employees.
The employees own the company and as such have a vested interest in ensuring that they keep as much knowledge as possible strictly within the company. It protects their profitability and their future. There are numerous small specialist companies around La Rochelle that would fail without the support of the factory.
In 2007 I spent three months on the Amel pontoon onboard Seafever. During that time I walked and cycled daily around La Rochelle meeting all sorts of tradesmen
and service companies.As a businessman I continually asked informed questions similar to yours. Everyone that I spoke with was very polite. Not one single company worked or provided information outside the Amel remit and the billing charges wether from the factory or the service company were similar.
There was an iron ring of loyalty from all concerned towards the factory. I think were we do gain is that  kind of intense loyalty does manifest itself in the quality of our boats.
Best regards,
Trevor
Seafever  of Cuan - still for sale
SM425
Mexico

 


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

It is hard to diagnose via an email which does not have all of the facts.

One question about your electrician...With the 24v battery switch ON, and the 220V shore power DISCONNECTED (UNPLUGGED), did the electrician try to locate a faulty 24 volt item that is connected to the bonding system? If he did not try this, I suggest that you might need another electrician.

The most likely item(s) that I can think of that is/are 24 volt, connected to the bonding system, and might be faulty is/are the macerator pumps on the side of the electric toilets, and/or the salt water toilet supply pumps (assuming that Kristy has the electric toilets. You might try turning OFF the WC breaker which is located in the engine room forward bulkhead (on BeBe 387). Use a volt meter to ensure that none of the pumps are still getting DC current...If the 3 volt voltage disappears, you found the culprit. Next, you will have to isolate which pump by disconnecting one at a time. Let me know if this works for you or not...if not, I need to know all of your 24 volt items and I will try to come up with another suspect item.

Also (on BeBe 387), all of the bonding wires were routed by Amel to the gray water bilge ground strap, where they were soldered to the top of the ground strap. I'm not sure, but I believe that your boat was originally built this way...if so, there has been a lot of changes. Let me know what you can about how your boat was originally wired, or someone else on this forum with a hull number before Kristy 243, can answer this question.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 6:11 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Kent,


Congratulations on the receipt of the C-drive...hope the installation goes well.

Regarding your electrical scenario.....it sounds like there's a capacitance between the earth bonding system and the negative battery connection.
If the boat was in the water that could be the seawater if the negative power to your SSB and tuner are connected to the SSB ground plate. But I guess you're not in the water so that doesn't work.

But somewhere there is some kind of capacitive leak from the 24V negative circuit to the earth bonding.
It could be a faulty appliance which has an earth bonding connection and 24V supply?

Regarding the engine beds, the engine is isolated from the beds by the mounts so I guess it doesn't matter if the beds are bonded or not, the engine parts that come in contact with seawater are bonded, that's the important thing.

Hope there are some gurus out there that can help you further.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437
Gulf Harbour
 



karkauai
 

Thanks, Bill,
We ran out of time, the electrician is coming back tomorrow.  In the meantime, I'll check with all of the 24V breakers off (galley, engine room, windlass, winches, etc).  If the voltage is gone, I'll switch them on one at time and see what happens...starting with the electric heads.

The bonding wires still go to the strap that goes to the keel bolt, and there are two that go from the strap to the engine and the top of the CDrive.  None go from the strap to the angle irons, but the bonding wire that goes to the zincs is attached to the angle iron.  I guess if the engine is connected to the bonding wires from the rest of the boat, and is connected to the angle iron, the engine completes the circuit to the zincs.....right?

I did have the bonding strap to the keel bolt replaced about 5 years ago, and I had the engine replaced a couple years later.  I suppose that during one of those projects someone could have missed a connection somewhere.

I'll let you know what I find.
Kent



From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Electrolysis

 
Kent,

It is hard to diagnose via an email which does not have all of the facts.

One question about your electrician...With the 24v battery switch ON, and the 220V shore power DISCONNECTED (UNPLUGGED), did the electrician try to locate a faulty 24 volt item that is connected to the bonding system? If he did not try this, I suggest that you might need another electrician.

The most likely item(s) that I can think of that is/are 24 volt, connected to the bonding system, and might be faulty is/are the macerator pumps on the side of the electric toilets, and/or the salt water toilet supply pumps (assuming that Kristy has the electric toilets. You might try turning OFF the WC breaker which is located in the engine room forward bulkhead (on BeBe 387). Use a volt meter to ensure that none of the pumps are still getting DC current...If the 3 volt voltage disappears, you found the culprit. Next, you will have to isolate which pump by disconnecting one at a time. Let me know if this works for you or not...if not, I need to know all of your 24 volt items and I will try to come up with another suspect item.

Also (on BeBe 387), all of the bonding wires were routed by Amel to the gray water bilge ground strap, where they were soldered to the top of the ground strap. I'm not sure, but I believe that your boat was originally built this way...if so, there has been a lot of changes. Let me know what you can about how your boat was originally wired, or someone else on this forum with a hull number before Kristy 243, can answer this question.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 6:11 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Hi Kent,

Congratulations on the receipt of the C-drive...hope the installation goes well.

Regarding your electrical scenario.....it sounds like there's a capacitance between the earth bonding system and the negative battery connection.
If the boat was in the water that could be the seawater if the negative power to your SSB and tuner are connected to the SSB ground plate. But I guess you're not in the water so that doesn't work.

But somewhere there is some kind of capacitive leak from the 24V negative circuit to the earth bonding.
It could be a faulty appliance which has an earth bonding connection and 24V supply?

Regarding the engine beds, the engine is isolated from the beds by the mounts so I guess it doesn't matter if the beds are bonded or not, the engine parts that come in contact with seawater are bonded, that's the important thing.

Hope there are some gurus out there that can help you further.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437
Gulf Harbour
 





karkauai
 

Thanks, Bill,
We ran out of time, the electrician is coming back tomorrow.  In the meantime, I'll check with all of the 24V breakers off (galley, engine room, windlass, winches, etc).  If the voltage is gone, I'll switch them on one at time and see what happens...starting with the electric heads.

The bonding wires still go to the strap that goes to the keel bolt, and there are two that go from the strap to the engine and the top of the CDrive.  None go from the strap to the angle irons, but the bonding wire that goes to the zincs is attached to the angle iron.  I guess if the engine is connected to the bonding wires from the rest of the boat, and is connected to the angle iron, the engine completes the circuit to the zincs.....right?

I did have the bonding strap to the keel bolt replaced about 5 years ago, and I had the engine replaced a couple years later.  I suppose that during one of those projects someone could have missed a connection somewhere.

I'll let you know what I find.
Kent



From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Prop Shaft Electrolysis

 
Kent,

It is hard to diagnose via an email which does not have all of the facts.

One question about your electrician...With the 24v battery switch ON, and the 220V shore power DISCONNECTED (UNPLUGGED), did the electrician try to locate a faulty 24 volt item that is connected to the bonding system? If he did not try this, I suggest that you might need another electrician.

The most likely item(s) that I can think of that is/are 24 volt, connected to the bonding system, and might be faulty is/are the macerator pumps on the side of the electric toilets, and/or the salt water toilet supply pumps (assuming that Kristy has the electric toilets. You might try turning OFF the WC breaker which is located in the engine room forward bulkhead (on BeBe 387). Use a volt meter to ensure that none of the pumps are still getting DC current...If the 3 volt voltage disappears, you found the culprit. Next, you will have to isolate which pump by disconnecting one at a time. Let me know if this works for you or not...if not, I need to know all of your 24 volt items and I will try to come up with another suspect item.

Also (on BeBe 387), all of the bonding wires were routed by Amel to the gray water bilge ground strap, where they were soldered to the top of the ground strap. I'm not sure, but I believe that your boat was originally built this way...if so, there has been a lot of changes. Let me know what you can about how your boat was originally wired, or someone else on this forum with a hull number before Kristy 243, can answer this question.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 6:11 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Hi Kent,

Congratulations on the receipt of the C-drive...hope the installation goes well.

Regarding your electrical scenario.....it sounds like there's a capacitance between the earth bonding system and the negative battery connection.
If the boat was in the water that could be the seawater if the negative power to your SSB and tuner are connected to the SSB ground plate. But I guess you're not in the water so that doesn't work.

But somewhere there is some kind of capacitive leak from the 24V negative circuit to the earth bonding.
It could be a faulty appliance which has an earth bonding connection and 24V supply?

Regarding the engine beds, the engine is isolated from the beds by the mounts so I guess it doesn't matter if the beds are bonded or not, the engine parts that come in contact with seawater are bonded, that's the important thing.

Hope there are some gurus out there that can help you further.

Cheers
Alan
SV Elyse SM437
Gulf Harbour