Topics

[Amel Yacht Owners] engine / cdrive adjustments?


Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Phil,

How many engine hours? Are you the first owner? If not, did you know about an accident (prop caught, severe grounding?...) Do you know why the bolts broke (you caught a rope recently? the bolts were not secured with a wire or Nyloc nuts?).
Whatever the reason why and whenever you separate the engine/gear-box from the C-drive, when you put it back, you must check the alignment (unless you're a good mechanic yourself, you should have this done from a skilled professional). This means before you install the soft coupling, you should put a made-on-purpose wedge (same thickness as the coupling) approach the engine until it touches the wedge, and check the space between the output drive shaft of the gearbox and the coupling flange. Check it with metal spacers (1mm thick or less).
Once checked and adjusted (thanks to the rubber mounts bolts), mark the place of the engine steel supports onto their brackets on the cradle. then move the engine back and install the coupling, bringing the engine to the same marks.This is probably what Daniel explained to you in La Rochelle.
If you did that, then It's OK. Now if you have a vibration at 2000 rpm only, this may be the resonace frequence of your engine/drive assembly. If you can get above 2000 and the vibration disappears, then, no concern.
If the vibration increases, then you should check your alignment again.
Beware that the alignment can be bad because the engine (or the C-drive) is too low or too high, but also if the engine (or C-drive) have moved sideways.

The risk you face with a mis-aligned engine/C-drive is to break the C-drive input shaft. This risk is lower than on the Super Maramu as your engine power is less, and the prop is smaller (but the C-drive is the same as on a SM).

You don't need to take the vessel out of the water to check the alignment. If you need to adjust the position of the C-drive and you need to release the clamps on the big rubber sleeve for that, a little water will come in but your bilge pump will certainly be able to pump this out (no risk of flooding...)

Why could the engine be lower than the C-drive?
When the 4 main rubber mounts (the ones that bear the steel cradle) are worn out/dead, the steel cradle should come down a little bit and it's true that the C-drive should come down as well (that's what most people think...). IN FACT... the C-drive does not come down as much as the engine BECAUSE of the big rubber sleeve that supports the C-drive. The purpose of the big sleeve is to make the junction (C-drive/hull) watertight, but as it is a very strong piece of reinforced rubber, it is stiff enough to "bear" the C-drive. I hope my explanations are clear...

One last question, as on the Santorin, the prop shaft alternator is very much used, how many miles did you sail (or are the 10000 miles you mention the miles only motoring?).

Now why did AMEL stop building the Santorin? In 1996/1997, the demand for the Super Maramu was very high. AMEL facilities could include one mould for the Super Maramu hull and one mould for the deck, and the same for the Santorin, but not more. AMEL decided to make a second mould for the Super Maramu (hull + deck), got the Santorin moulds out of the workshop, and replaced them with the SM moulds. Then AMEL built 32 Super Maramus a year, every year until 2005 when the AMEL 54 came up...
At that time, AMEL did not want to build a new building to make more boats.

Where is your Santorin now?

Olivier




On Saturday, February 6, 2016 2:59 PM, phil. berghmans wrote:


 
hello Olivier,

I just had to replace 3 bolts off the flexible coupling and changed the rubbers to.
Then discovered that the gearbox output shaft was leaking quite a bit so back to port and dismanteld the gearbox and changed the seals in and out...big job
I visited Amel la rochelle last september and talked with the staf off the service parts division and they introduced me to daniel from the repair facillity at La rochelle the amel dock. He explained how to outline the engine C drive when you change the coupling or the enginemounts.
This was very helpfull and i am very happy to get such a service from the amel staff ... fantastic experience.
I tried to do what he said but i had to lower the c drive for about 6 a 7 mm the engine runs smoother less resonance on the hull and less vibrations but iff i put the revs up to 2000 revs i have some vibration off the cdrive ...Is this tolerable or not done?
Iff i turn it by hand everything turns real smooth with no wobbleling so i think its good. Could it be that i travelled more then 10000nm with an 
outlined engine... and how is it possible that the engine was that much lower...Iff the engine mounts are wornout (they are not leaking) then
the c drive would come down ass well no? I think the next haul out i will change the engine mounts the boat is 21y.What do you think i want to make some miles before i haul out the next time.Could tthe vibration off the c drive be a problem or is that ok...

Another question i forgot to ask : Why did they stop making the santorin in 1997 after 147 boats not much compared to the maramu or
super maramu?

thank you

phil

miles ahead santorin 101




Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Thank you that was  a wonderful explanation of the Amel solution for the "c" drive and the business plan,which was a great success for both the Amel client and the business.
 
Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing to ALL
Capt. Richard Piller
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI
603 767 5330


On Sunday, February 7, 2016 3:51 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
Hello Phil,

How many engine hours? Are you the first owner? If not, did you know about an accident (prop caught, severe grounding?...) Do you know why the bolts broke (you caught a rope recently? the bolts were not secured with a wire or Nyloc nuts?).
Whatever the reason why and whenever you separate the engine/gear-box from the C-drive, when you put it back, you must check the alignment (unless you're a good mechanic yourself, you should have this done from a skilled professional). This means before you install the soft coupling, you should put a made-on-purpose wedge (same thickness as the coupling) approach the engine until it touches the wedge, and check the space between the output drive shaft of the gearbox and the coupling flange. Check it with metal spacers (1mm thick or less).
Once checked and adjusted (thanks to the rubber mounts bolts), mark the place of the engine steel supports onto their brackets on the cradle. then move the engine back and install the coupling, bringing the engine to the same marks.This is probably what Daniel explained to you in La Rochelle.
If you did that, then It's OK. Now if you have a vibration at 2000 rpm only, this may be the resonace frequence of your engine/drive assembly. If you can get above 2000 and the vibration disappears, then, no concern.
If the vibration increases, then you should check your alignment again.
Beware that the alignment can be bad because the engine (or the C-drive) is too low or too high, but also if the engine (or C-drive) have moved sideways.

The risk you face with a mis-aligned engine/C-drive is to break the C-drive input shaft. This risk is lower than on the Super Maramu as your engine power is less, and the prop is smaller (but the C-drive is the same as on a SM).

You don't need to take the vessel out of the water to check the alignment. If you need to adjust the position of the C-drive and you need to release the clamps on the big rubber sleeve for that, a little water will come in but your bilge pump will certainly be able to pump this out (no risk of flooding...)

Why could the engine be lower than the C-drive?
When the 4 main rubber mounts (the ones that bear the steel cradle) are worn out/dead, the steel cradle should come down a little bit and it's true that the C-drive should come down as well (that's what most people think...). IN FACT... the C-drive does not come down as much as the engine BECAUSE of the big rubber sleeve that supports the C-drive. The purpose of the big sleeve is to make the junction (C-drive/hull) watertight, but as it is a very strong piece of reinforced rubber, it is stiff enough to "bear" the C-drive. I hope my explanations are clear...

One last question, as on the Santorin, the prop shaft alternator is very much used, how many miles did you sail (or are the 10000 miles you mention the miles only motoring?).

Now why did AMEL stop building the Santorin? In 1996/1997, the demand for the Super Maramu was very high. AMEL facilities could include one mould for the Super Maramu hull and one mould for the deck, and the same for the Santorin, but not more. AMEL decided to make a second mould for the Super Maramu (hull + deck), got the Santorin moulds out of the workshop, and replaced them with the SM moulds. Then AMEL built 32 Super Maramus a year, every year until 2005 when the AMEL 54 came up...
At that time, AMEL did not want to build a new building to make more boats.

Where is your Santorin now?

Olivier




On Saturday, February 6, 2016 2:59 PM, phil. berghmans


 
hello Olivier,

I just had to replace 3 bolts off the flexible coupling and changed the rubbers to.
Then discovered that the gearbox output shaft was leaking quite a bit so back to port and dismanteld the gearbox and changed the seals in and out...big job
I visited Amel la rochelle last september and talked with the staf off the service parts division and they introduced me to daniel from the repair facillity at La rochelle the amel dock. He explained how to outline the engine C drive when you change the coupling or the enginemounts.
This was very helpfull and i am very happy to get such a service from the amel staff ... fantastic experience.
I tried to do what he said but i had to lower the c drive for about 6 a 7 mm the engine runs smoother less resonance on the hull and less vibrations but iff i put the revs up to 2000 revs i have some vibration off the cdrive ...Is this tolerable or not done?
Iff i turn it by hand everything turns real smooth with no wobbleling so i think its good. Could it be that i travelled more then 10000nm with an 
outlined engine... and how is it possible that the engine was that much lower...Iff the engine mounts are wornout (they are not leaking) then
the c drive would come down ass well no? I think the next haul out i will change the engine mounts the boat is 21y.What do you think i want to make some miles before i haul out the next time.Could tthe vibration off the c drive be a problem or is that ok...

Another question i forgot to ask : Why did they stop making the santorin in 1997 after 147 boats not much compared to the maramu or
super maramu?

thank you

phil

miles ahead santorin 101






Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Phil,

yes there are always some vibrations, whatever the age of the engine. These vibrations must not be too hard. You should almost not feel them in your feet when you stand in the cockpit, on the engine room hatch. You should also watch the engine when you feel the vibrations: can you see it moving or not.
Make the test also above the 2000 rpm. Does the engine calm down?
The slight vibration you feel at 2000 rpm may also come from a slight mis-balance of your propeller (maybe caused when you caught the lobster traps) or a too loose bolt/rubber bushing on the C-drive fitting to the ballast (to be chacked at next haul-out).

Have a good day.

Olivier


On Sunday, February 7, 2016 8:28 PM, "Richard Piller richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
Thank you that was  a wonderful explanation of the Amel solution for the "c" drive and the business plan,which was a great success for both the Amel client and the business.
 
Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing to ALL
Capt. Richard Piller
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI
603 767 5330


On Sunday, February 7, 2016 3:51 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
Hello Phil,

How many engine hours? Are you the first owner? If not, did you know about an accident (prop caught, severe grounding?...) Do you know why the bolts broke (you caught a rope recently? the bolts were not secured with a wire or Nyloc nuts?).
Whatever the reason why and whenever you separate the engine/gear-box from the C-drive, when you put it back, you must check the alignment (unless you're a good mechanic yourself, you should have this done from a skilled professional). This means before you install the soft coupling, you should put a made-on-purpose wedge (same thickness as the coupling) approach the engine until it touches the wedge, and check the space between the output drive shaft of the gearbox and the coupling flange. Check it with metal spacers (1mm thick or less).
Once checked and adjusted (thanks to the rubber mounts bolts), mark the place of the engine steel supports onto their brackets on the cradle. then move the engine back and install the coupling, bringing the engine to the same marks.This is probably what Daniel explained to you in La Rochelle.
If you did that, then It's OK. Now if you have a vibration at 2000 rpm only, this may be the resonace frequence of your engine/drive assembly. If you can get above 2000 and the vibration disappears, then, no concern.
If the vibration increases, then you should check your alignment again.
Beware that the alignment can be bad because the engine (or the C-drive) is too low or too high, but also if the engine (or C-drive) have moved sideways.

The risk you face with a mis-aligned engine/C-drive is to break the C-drive input shaft. This risk is lower than on the Super Maramu as your engine power is less, and the prop is smaller (but the C-drive is the same as on a SM).

You don't need to take the vessel out of the water to check the alignment. If you need to adjust the position of the C-drive and you need to release the clamps on the big rubber sleeve for that, a little water will come in but your bilge pump will certainly be able to pump this out (no risk of flooding...)

Why could the engine be lower than the C-drive?
When the 4 main rubber mounts (the ones that bear the steel cradle) are worn out/dead, the steel cradle should come down a little bit and it's true that the C-drive should come down as well (that's what most people think...). IN FACT... the C-drive does not come down as much as the engine BECAUSE of the big rubber sleeve that supports the C-drive. The purpose of the big sleeve is to make the junction (C-drive/hull) watertight, but as it is a very strong piece of reinforced rubber, it is stiff enough to "bear" the C-drive. I hope my explanations are clear...

One last question, as on the Santorin, the prop shaft alternator is very much used, how many miles did you sail (or are the 10000 miles you mention the miles only motoring?).

Now why did AMEL stop building the Santorin? In 1996/1997, the demand for the Super Maramu was very high. AMEL facilities could include one mould for the Super Maramu hull and one mould for the deck, and the same for the Santorin, but not more. AMEL decided to make a second mould for the Super Maramu (hull + deck), got the Santorin moulds out of the workshop, and replaced them with the SM moulds. Then AMEL built 32 Super Maramus a year, every year until 2005 when the AMEL 54 came up...
At that time, AMEL did not want to build a new building to make more boats.

Where is your Santorin now?

Olivier




On Saturday, February 6, 2016 2:59 PM, phil. berghmans wrote:


 
hello Olivier,

I just had to replace 3 bolts off the flexible coupling and changed the rubbers to.
Then discovered that the gearbox output shaft was leaking quite a bit so back to port and dismanteld the gearbox and changed the seals in and out...big job
I visited Amel la rochelle last september and talked with the staf off the service parts division and they introduced me to daniel from the repair facillity at La rochelle the amel dock. He explained how to outline the engine C drive when you change the coupling or the enginemounts.
This was very helpfull and i am very happy to get such a service from the amel staff ... fantastic experience.
I tried to do what he said but i had to lower the c drive for about 6 a 7 mm the engine runs smoother less resonance on the hull and less vibrations but iff i put the revs up to 2000 revs i have some vibration off the cdrive ...Is this tolerable or not done?
Iff i turn it by hand everything turns real smooth with no wobbleling so i think its good. Could it be that i travelled more then 10000nm with an 
outlined engine... and how is it possible that the engine was that much lower...Iff the engine mounts are wornout (they are not leaking) then
the c drive would come down ass well no? I think the next haul out i will change the engine mounts the boat is 21y.What do you think i want to make some miles before i haul out the next time.Could tthe vibration off the c drive be a problem or is that ok...

Another question i forgot to ask : Why did they stop making the santorin in 1997 after 147 boats not much compared to the maramu or
super maramu?

thank you

phil

miles ahead santorin 101








snw7tgmcrs6nmg5mdg55r3xpowhzm3kjxc2uqysc@...
 

Hello Phil!

During our circum navigation I had to install a new engine here in New Zealand. Now I do have a vibration on idle speed and on 1800 rpm. It doesn’t matter if the boat is in gear or out of gear.
Please could you explain how I can adjust or find out the right height of the c-drive? Unfortunately Amel didn’t answer my questions about that.

Thank you very much for your kind answer.

Greetings from Coromandel.

Hannes

SN 106 Cayenne


eric freedman