[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts


Mike Ondra
 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi after all that one might check you Auto Prop. Any growth will cause an issue. You should normally run smooth. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 13, 2016, at 14:05, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Not only growth on the AutoProp, but also is there any play in the blades indicating bad bearings. When were the bearings last replaced and when was the AutoProp last greased and at that time, did you check for bearing play?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 13, 2016 3:40 PM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi after all that one might check you Auto Prop. Any growth will cause an issue. You should normally run smooth. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

On Jun 13, 2016, at 14:05, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Mike Ondra
 

It makes sense that the prop is one of the first suspects for vibration. We are now in Chesapeake water so not fun to dive on to check, and haul out rather expensive diagnostic strategy. Would like to rule out other vibration inducing possibilities before doing a haul out.

This AutoProp is not greased, and the bearings seemed fine 120 hours ago while on the hard.

Mike

ALETES SM#240



From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 3:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts





Not only growth on the AutoProp, but also is there any play in the blades indicating bad bearings. When were the bearings last replaced and when was the AutoProp last greased and at that time, did you check for bearing play?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 13, 2016 3:40 PM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



Hi after all that one might check you Auto Prop. Any growth will cause an issue. You should normally run smooth.

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330 <tel:603%20767%205330>


On Jun 13, 2016, at 14:05, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS



About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.



I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch. My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment. What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?



As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility. Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.



What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.



Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1) back off the bolts on the coupling

2) remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3) slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4) make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5) bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6) use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7) re-bolt



Thoughts?



Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD





From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts





QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring?



THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts. Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.



Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.


karkauai
 

Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire


Patrick McAneny
 

Kent, I replaced my mounts last fall and all seems good , however I remember this solid coupling suggested as a means of assuring alignment . Could you describe it ? It would seem to me, that all you would need would be pipe milled to be the exact ID as the shaft's OD . The shafts would not be able to side into the pipe unless absolutely aligned . Is that basically what it is ?
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire


karkauai
 

Hi Pat.  No, it is a disc the same thickness as the Vetus coupling, with holes drilled for the bolts.  The disc is installed just as the Vetus would be, and alignment performed with the disc in place.  Then the engine is moved back, the disc removed, and the Vetus reinstalled, moving the engine back to where it was when aligned properly with the disc.

Does that sound right?  Am I missing anything?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:12 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent, I replaced my mounts last fall and all seems good , however I remember this solid coupling suggested as a means of assuring alignment . Could you describe it ? It would seem to me, that all you would need would be pipe milled to be the exact ID as the shaft's OD . The shafts would not be able to side into the pipe unless absolutely aligned . Is that basically what it is ?
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire


Patrick McAneny
 

Kent, So it sounds like it is  basically the same as the coupling . Then why can you not accomplish the same with the coupling itself ? How is it different ? Is the disc two separate pieces or just one piece ? I can see where a single solid disc would work .Just trying to understand , bit slow you know.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2016 9:26 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Pat.  No, it is a disc the same thickness as the Vetus coupling, with holes drilled for the bolts.  The disc is installed just as the Vetus would be, and alignment performed with the disc in place.  Then the engine is moved back, the disc removed, and the Vetus reinstalled, moving the engine back to where it was when aligned properly with the disc.

Does that sound right?  Am I missing anything?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:12 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent, I replaced my mounts last fall and all seems good , however I remember this solid coupling suggested as a means of assuring alignment . Could you describe it ? It would seem to me, that all you would need would be pipe milled to be the exact ID as the shaft's OD . The shafts would not be able to side into the pipe unless absolutely aligned . Is that basically what it is ?
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire


karkauai
 

I agree, Pat.  But the Vetus does give some (soft coupling).  I guess the theory is that there is no give to the solid coupling.

I'm sure there is someone who knows more about this than I do.
Kent

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:44 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent, So it sounds like it is  basically the same as the coupling . Then why can you not accomplish the same with the coupling itself ? How is it different ? Is the disc two separate pieces or just one piece ? I can see where a single solid disc would work .Just trying to understand , bit slow you know.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Jun 14, 2016 9:26 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Pat.  No, it is a disc the same thickness as the Vetus coupling, with holes drilled for the bolts.  The disc is installed just as the Vetus would be, and alignment performed with the disc in place.  Then the engine is moved back, the disc removed, and the Vetus reinstalled, moving the engine back to where it was when aligned properly with the disc.

Does that sound right?  Am I missing anything?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:12 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent, I replaced my mounts last fall and all seems good , however I remember this solid coupling suggested as a means of assuring alignment . Could you describe it ? It would seem to me, that all you would need would be pipe milled to be the exact ID as the shaft's OD . The shafts would not be able to side into the pipe unless absolutely aligned . Is that basically what it is ?
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire