[Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement


Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378, Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow (and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance, having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.

For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the “Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.

Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.
I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12, 2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High Temperature RTV…

Here is the link: 
http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.

If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version (37 pictures). 

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Mark Erdos
 

Alexandre,

 

Very nice job! I find it really helpful when you document these things. It makes me add it to my “to do” list. Darn you!

 

I will also change the all hose screw clamps when doing a project like this.

 

The reason there is carbon build up in the Onan is because most people (including myself) do not run the generator hard enough. Diesel engines like to be run hard. If the genset were run at higher loads, the carbon is minimized. While charging the batteries, this is a good reason to do a load of laundry, run the AC, wash dishes, nuke something, and fill the SCUBA tanks. Perhaps not all at the same time, but keeping a load on the Onan is the general idea.

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2016 5:08 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement

 

 



Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378, Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow (and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance, having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.

For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the “Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.

Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.
I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12, 2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High Temperature RTV…

Here is the link: 
http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.

If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version (37 pictures). 

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Bill <greatketch@...>
 

Alexandre,

Great job, and helpful pictures.

I only have two comments.

 It is not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose their "spring" and do not do a good job the second time around. 

You are also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.  For engine work I use a product called "Never-Seez" that is rated for higher temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of them are a suspension of powdered copper.

With a new gasket, and clean mating surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had previous problems with leaks.  

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA

On Sep 3, 2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 



Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378, Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow (and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance, having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.

For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the “Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.

Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.
I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12, 2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High Temperature RTV…

Here is the link: 
http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.

If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version (37 pictures). 

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Mark & Bill,

Thank you so much for your input.
I just added your note on the illustration.

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?


Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine.
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.


Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…



Here is the link: 

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures). 



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Bill <greatketch@...>
 

Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill,

Thank you so much for your input.
I just added your note on the illustration.

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine.
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…



Here is the link: 

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures). 



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



James Alton
 

Bill and Alexandre,

   I thought that I would mention that the Kennedy Space Center uses (don’t laugh) Phllips unflavoured Milk of Magnesia on the threads of fasteners that will be exposed to high temperatures to allow for easy removal.  I have used this solution on exhaust systems of cars and boats for a long time and it really does work.  I am sure that there are other products and you may have as good of a solution but thought I would toss this in as an option.  Some of the anti seize compounds contain metals that are quite high on the galvanic scale which concerns me some...

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill, 

Thank you so much for your input.  
I just added your note on the illustration.  

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?  

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine. 
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.  

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.  
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.  



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator. 



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.  

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…  



Here is the link:  

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures).  



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico





Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon James & Bill,

Very interesting solution there James! I added it to the Illustration.
I have quite a few friends that work at JSC (front and back room), I don’t think they new that!

I just did a genset run, all was good, no water nor exhaust leak, but will replace the Lanocote to something else within 2 weeks.

Thanks again for all your inputs!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico




--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 9/4/16, Bill greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 4, 2016, 9:22 AM


 









Alexandre,
I would change the Lanocote.  At
best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it
unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and
potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made
from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive
in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust
manifold.
Bill
On Sep 4,
2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Good morning Mark & Bill,



Thank you so much for your input.

I just added your note on the illustration.



Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good
(and should change it now)?



Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours,
I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine.


Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able
to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build
up.



Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.

Have a great weekend!



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan
Exhaust Elbow Replacement

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM





 





















Alexandre,

Great job, and helpful

pictures.

I only have

two comments.

 It is

not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a
high

temperature application like this.  They anneal and
lose

their "spring" and do not do a good job the
second

time around. 

You are

also right to use an anti seize on the bolts,
unfortunately

Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will
not

stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust
manifold.

 For engine work I use a product called

"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher

temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most
of

them are a suspension of powdered copper.

With a new gasket, and clean mating

surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had

previous problems with leaks.  

Bill KinneyHarmonie,

SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA

On Sep 3,

2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

wrote:

































 





















Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM
378,

Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing
Elbow

(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up,
I

decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow,
several

Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive
maintenance,

having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.







For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by
new

maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated
the

“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.







Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made

error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.



I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb
12,

2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High

Temperature RTV…







Here is the link: 



http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html







For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6
sections.









If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full
version

(37 pictures). 







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico




























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Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

James,

Now that’s a fun fact!  But I guess magnesium hydroxide could be as good a thread lubricant as anything else.  Just be sure to use the “unflavored” variety.  :-)

I am not aware of  any single thread lubricant or anti-seaze that works in every situation on a boat.  I generally keep a few kinds in my tool box. 

A teflon based product like Tef-Gel for stainless screws into aluminum, and stainless-on-stainless threads under high load.  
Lanocote, for lots of general purpose applications.
Marine-grade Never-Seeze for most everything on the engine and any other high temperature applications.  Also good for preventing galling with stainless-on-stainless pipe threads.
Blue Loctite for things that need help staying together.

They all do something a bit different from each other, and which one that gets used depends on what I want to happen.  Do I want to lubricate the threads to make a tighter joint?  Is it a part that gets wet so galvanic isolation important? Is the temperature range unusual?  Is it an electrical connection so conductivity needs to be considered?  It is really rare that threads get tightened on my boat without something on them.

Just as an aside, one of the things that I find makes my future life happier is anytime I buy a new piece of equipment, especially if it has stainless screws, is I pull all the screws out and lubricate them.  A future disassembly then has much less aggravation.

Of course, these are the brands that I use because they are easily available to me, and have been good to me in the past.  I am sure there are lots of others that are at least as good.




On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:13, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill and Alexandre,


   I thought that I would mention that the Kennedy Space Center uses (don’t laugh) Phllips unflavoured Milk of Magnesia on the threads of fasteners that will be exposed to high temperatures to allow for easy removal.  I have used this solution on exhaust systems of cars and boats for a long time and it really does work.  I am sure that there are other products and you may have as good of a solution but thought I would toss this in as an option.  Some of the anti seize compounds contain metals that are quite high on the galvanic scale which concerns me some...

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill, 

Thank you so much for your input.  
I just added your note on the illustration.  

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?  

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine. 
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.  

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.  
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.  



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator. 



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.  

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…  



Here is the link:  

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures).  



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico







James Alton
 

Bill,

   Yes, apparently the “unflavoured” requirement was written right into the manual according to a good friend that worked with on the shuttle. (grin)

   I have had great luck with the Tef-gel,  especially when installing stainless fasteners in aluminum spars a very useful product.

   Have you ever seen any pitting or corrosion issues when using the never seize on pipe connections that are immersed in salt water?  I am pretty sure that some types of never seize contain graphite, which is quite high on the galvanic scale.  I have never seen a problem myself to date from using the product in that application but have seen corrosion issues on stainless prop shafts from using graphite impregnated packing so worry a little.  I definitely agree that something must be on stainless to stainless pipe joints.  

   What type of container do you buy your Blue Loc-tite in?  It seems that once opened the little squeeze tubes seep/leak.

   It really sounds like you know your how to deal with fasteners in the Marine environment..if there is a next owner to your boat, he is going to be a lucky guy when the time comes to take something apart!   Good point about taking new hardware apart to lube up the fastenings before putting it into service.  

   One of my first jobs when I get back to my boat will be to remove the bow thruster that has not been serviced in quite a few years.  Thankfully it appears that the previous owner was very careful about preventing corrosion since there appears to be plenty of grease between the tube and the motor and no obvious corrosion.  A dab of the right goo early can sure save a lot of stress and heartache later. 

    I have had really good luck by the way with using the special (which translates to expensive) Vari-prop grease (it appears to be a white lithium)  for winches, windlass clutch cones, applications where salt water tends to wash the lubricant away.  This stuff really seems to stay put and being white does not stain sails and lines too bad.  When you try to wash this stuff off of your hands, you understand why it takes so long for the Ocean to do the same!  

   Thanks for the tips,  if you have any more to share please do!

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Sardinia

On Sep 4, 2016, at 2:10 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


Now that’s a fun fact!  But I guess magnesium hydroxide could be as good a thread lubricant as anything else.  Just be sure to use the “unflavored” variety.  :-)

I am not aware of  any single thread lubricant or anti-seaze that works in every situation on a boat.  I generally keep a few kinds in my tool box. 

A teflon based product like Tef-Gel for stainless screws into aluminum, and stainless-on-stainless threads under high load.  
Lanocote, for lots of general purpose applications.
Marine-grade Never-Seeze for most everything on the engine and any other high temperature applications.  Also good for preventing galling with stainless-on-stainless pipe threads.
Blue Loctite for things that need help staying together.

They all do something a bit different from each other, and which one that gets used depends on what I want to happen.  Do I want to lubricate the threads to make a tighter joint?  Is it a part that gets wet so galvanic isolation important? Is the temperature range unusual?  Is it an electrical connection so conductivity needs to be considered?  It is really rare that threads get tightened on my boat without something on them.

Just as an aside, one of the things that I find makes my future life happier is anytime I buy a new piece of equipment, especially if it has stainless screws, is I pull all the screws out and lubricate them.  A future disassembly then has much less aggravation.

Of course, these are the brands that I use because they are easily available to me, and have been good to me in the past.  I am sure there are lots of others that are at least as good.




On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:13, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill and Alexandre,


   I thought that I would mention that the Kennedy Space Center uses (don’t laugh) Phllips unflavoured Milk of Magnesia on the threads of fasteners that will be exposed to high temperatures to allow for easy removal.  I have used this solution on exhaust systems of cars and boats for a long time and it really does work.  I am sure that there are other products and you may have as good of a solution but thought I would toss this in as an option.  Some of the anti seize compounds contain metals that are quite high on the galvanic scale which concerns me some...

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill, 

Thank you so much for your input.  
I just added your note on the illustration.  

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?  

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine. 
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.  

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.  
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.  



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator. 



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.  

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…  



Here is the link:  

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures).  



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico









Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

James,

Tefgel and stainless machine screws are the perfect solution to attaching things to aluminum spars.  I have had no trouble at all disassembling screws that have been in place for 15 years that were installed with tef-gel.  I know, because I put them in, and then took them out a decade and a half later.  Compare this to the trouble people have trying to take out the aluminum bolts that Amel used in an effort to avoid the issue. One of those things that must have "seemed like a great idea at the time” that didn’t work quite as well as expected.

The Bostik brand of Marine grade “Never-Seez” has “active” ingredients of copper and aluminum powder—no graphite.  I have used it on stainless steel piping carrying salt water and not had any issues. I have used it on bolts going into aluminum engine blocks without a problem.

Graphite packing material is one of those things that sounds like a great idea…  until you actually use it in salt water and your shaft erodes away.  When I was taking care of boats with stuffing boxes, I had great luck with the teflon based “Drip-Less” packing.

The blue loctite I like best is a gel or paste that comes in a tube like lipstick.  It is Loctite #248.  You have to look a little harder for it than your local hardware store, it is not on their list of “consumer” products.  As far as I can tell it has a very long self life.  Or at least, I lose mine before it goes bad!

One place that care needs to be taken with thread lubricants: If there is a torque specification on the bolt. The lubricated bolts put a LOT more tension on things than threads assembled dry.  You need to be sure that you follow the design specifications. 


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 4, 2016, at 17:03, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill,


   Yes, apparently the “unflavoured” requirement was written right into the manual according to a good friend that worked with on the shuttle. (grin)

   I have had great luck with the Tef-gel,  especially when installing stainless fasteners in aluminum spars a very useful product.

   Have you ever seen any pitting or corrosion issues when using the never seize on pipe connections that are immersed in salt water?  I am pretty sure that some types of never seize contain graphite, which is quite high on the galvanic scale.  I have never seen a problem myself to date from using the product in that application but have seen corrosion issues on stainless prop shafts from using graphite impregnated packing so worry a little.  I definitely agree that something must be on stainless to stainless pipe joints.  

   What type of container do you buy your Blue Loc-tite in?  It seems that once opened the little squeeze tubes seep/leak.

   It really sounds like you know your how to deal with fasteners in the Marine environment..if there is a next owner to your boat, he is going to be a lucky guy when the time comes to take something apart!   Good point about taking new hardware apart to lube up the fastenings before putting it into service.  

   One of my first jobs when I get back to my boat will be to remove the bow thruster that has not been serviced in quite a few years.  Thankfully it appears that the previous owner was very careful about preventing corrosion since there appears to be plenty of grease between the tube and the motor and no obvious corrosion.  A dab of the right goo early can sure save a lot of stress and heartache later. 

    I have had really good luck by the way with using the special (which translates to expensive) Vari-prop grease (it appears to be a white lithium)  for winches, windlass clutch cones, applications where salt water tends to wash the lubricant away.  This stuff really seems to stay put and being white does not stain sails and lines too bad.  When you try to wash this stuff off of your hands, you understand why it takes so long for the Ocean to do the same!  

   Thanks for the tips,  if you have any more to share please do!

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Sardinia

On Sep 4, 2016, at 2:10 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


Now that’s a fun fact!  But I guess magnesium hydroxide could be as good a thread lubricant as anything else.  Just be sure to use the “unflavored” variety.  :-)

I am not aware of  any single thread lubricant or anti-seaze that works in every situation on a boat.  I generally keep a few kinds in my tool box. 

A teflon based product like Tef-Gel for stainless screws into aluminum, and stainless-on-stainless threads under high load.  
Lanocote, for lots of general purpose applications.
Marine-grade Never-Seeze for most everything on the engine and any other high temperature applications.  Also good for preventing galling with stainless-on-stainless pipe threads.
Blue Loctite for things that need help staying together.

They all do something a bit different from each other, and which one that gets used depends on what I want to happen.  Do I want to lubricate the threads to make a tighter joint?  Is it a part that gets wet so galvanic isolation important? Is the temperature range unusual?  Is it an electrical connection so conductivity needs to be considered?  It is really rare that threads get tightened on my boat without something on them.

Just as an aside, one of the things that I find makes my future life happier is anytime I buy a new piece of equipment, especially if it has stainless screws, is I pull all the screws out and lubricate them.  A future disassembly then has much less aggravation.

Of course, these are the brands that I use because they are easily available to me, and have been good to me in the past.  I am sure there are lots of others that are at least as good.




On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:13, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill and Alexandre,


   I thought that I would mention that the Kennedy Space Center uses (don’t laugh) Phllips unflavoured Milk of Magnesia on the threads of fasteners that will be exposed to high temperatures to allow for easy removal.  I have used this solution on exhaust systems of cars and boats for a long time and it really does work.  I am sure that there are other products and you may have as good of a solution but thought I would toss this in as an option.  Some of the anti seize compounds contain metals that are quite high on the galvanic scale which concerns me some...

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill, 

Thank you so much for your input.  
I just added your note on the illustration.  

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?  

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine. 
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.  

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.  
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.  



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator. 



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.  

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…  



Here is the link:  

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures).  



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico











amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Alexandre:  Great Job of compiling that photo essay.  Thanks for sharing.   Gary Silver


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alex,

Great photos. I read earlier a discussion regarding RTV. I would not use high temperature RTV on the new part, but would use it if I was refitting the old part because of the pitting in the metal.

Thanks for the photos.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sat, Sep 3, 2016 at 4:07 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 



Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378, Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow (and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance, having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.

For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the “Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.

Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.
I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12, 2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High Temperature RTV…

Here is the link: 
http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.

If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version (37 pictures). 

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



James Alton
 

Bill,

  My first introduction to Tef-Gel came when I completely disassembled the spar to be refinished on which Tef-gel had been used on every fastener 12 years prior.  As the boat had been cruised extensively in the Tropics I was expecting the worst.  Instead I found that every single fastener came out easily, I was amazed and have used the product with great results since.  I agree that this is a better solution than to use aluminum fasteners, the threads are too soft and they tend to seize up after a while.

  Thanks for giving me the brand of Never-Seez that you use,  copper is a little below stainless on the galvanic scale I believe.  I did not know that the Loc-tite 248 came in  lipstick style packaging as a gel/paste, that sounds like a much better solution than the small leaky liquid containers I have been using.

  I have had great luck as well with the Drip Less Teflon packing and also the white teflon impregnated packing.   

  Always great to learn something new, thanks for sharing.

James

SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Sep 4, 2016, at 7:07 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


Tefgel and stainless machine screws are the perfect solution to attaching things to aluminum spars.  I have had no trouble at all disassembling screws that have been in place for 15 years that were installed with tef-gel.  I know, because I put them in, and then took them out a decade and a half later.  Compare this to the trouble people have trying to take out the aluminum bolts that Amel used in an effort to avoid the issue. One of those things that must have "seemed like a great idea at the time” that didn’t work quite as well as expected.

The Bostik brand of Marine grade “Never-Seez” has “active” ingredients of copper and aluminum powder—no graphite.  I have used it on stainless steel piping carrying salt water and not had any issues. I have used it on bolts going into aluminum engine blocks without a problem.

Graphite packing material is one of those things that sounds like a great idea…  until you actually use it in salt water and your shaft erodes away.  When I was taking care of boats with stuffing boxes, I had great luck with the teflon based “Drip-Less” packing.

The blue loctite I like best is a gel or paste that comes in a tube like lipstick.  It is Loctite #248.  You have to look a little harder for it than your local hardware store, it is not on their list of “consumer” products.  As far as I can tell it has a very long self life.  Or at least, I lose mine before it goes bad!

One place that care needs to be taken with thread lubricants: If there is a torque specification on the bolt. The lubricated bolts put a LOT more tension on things than threads assembled dry.  You need to be sure that you follow the design specifications. 


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 4, 2016, at 17:03, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill,


   Yes, apparently the “unflavoured” requirement was written right into the manual according to a good friend that worked with on the shuttle. (grin)

   I have had great luck with the Tef-gel,  especially when installing stainless fasteners in aluminum spars a very useful product.

   Have you ever seen any pitting or corrosion issues when using the never seize on pipe connections that are immersed in salt water?  I am pretty sure that some types of never seize contain graphite, which is quite high on the galvanic scale.  I have never seen a problem myself to date from using the product in that application but have seen corrosion issues on stainless prop shafts from using graphite impregnated packing so worry a little.  I definitely agree that something must be on stainless to stainless pipe joints.  

   What type of container do you buy your Blue Loc-tite in?  It seems that once opened the little squeeze tubes seep/leak.

   It really sounds like you know your how to deal with fasteners in the Marine environment..if there is a next owner to your boat, he is going to be a lucky guy when the time comes to take something apart!   Good point about taking new hardware apart to lube up the fastenings before putting it into service.  

   One of my first jobs when I get back to my boat will be to remove the bow thruster that has not been serviced in quite a few years.  Thankfully it appears that the previous owner was very careful about preventing corrosion since there appears to be plenty of grease between the tube and the motor and no obvious corrosion.  A dab of the right goo early can sure save a lot of stress and heartache later. 

    I have had really good luck by the way with using the special (which translates to expensive) Vari-prop grease (it appears to be a white lithium)  for winches, windlass clutch cones, applications where salt water tends to wash the lubricant away.  This stuff really seems to stay put and being white does not stain sails and lines too bad.  When you try to wash this stuff off of your hands, you understand why it takes so long for the Ocean to do the same!  

   Thanks for the tips,  if you have any more to share please do!

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Sardinia

On Sep 4, 2016, at 2:10 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James,


Now that’s a fun fact!  But I guess magnesium hydroxide could be as good a thread lubricant as anything else.  Just be sure to use the “unflavored” variety.  :-)

I am not aware of  any single thread lubricant or anti-seaze that works in every situation on a boat.  I generally keep a few kinds in my tool box. 

A teflon based product like Tef-Gel for stainless screws into aluminum, and stainless-on-stainless threads under high load.  
Lanocote, for lots of general purpose applications.
Marine-grade Never-Seeze for most everything on the engine and any other high temperature applications.  Also good for preventing galling with stainless-on-stainless pipe threads.
Blue Loctite for things that need help staying together.

They all do something a bit different from each other, and which one that gets used depends on what I want to happen.  Do I want to lubricate the threads to make a tighter joint?  Is it a part that gets wet so galvanic isolation important? Is the temperature range unusual?  Is it an electrical connection so conductivity needs to be considered?  It is really rare that threads get tightened on my boat without something on them.

Just as an aside, one of the things that I find makes my future life happier is anytime I buy a new piece of equipment, especially if it has stainless screws, is I pull all the screws out and lubricate them.  A future disassembly then has much less aggravation.

Of course, these are the brands that I use because they are easily available to me, and have been good to me in the past.  I am sure there are lots of others that are at least as good.




On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:13, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill and Alexandre,


   I thought that I would mention that the Kennedy Space Center uses (don’t laugh) Phllips unflavoured Milk of Magnesia on the threads of fasteners that will be exposed to high temperatures to allow for easy removal.  I have used this solution on exhaust systems of cars and boats for a long time and it really does work.  I am sure that there are other products and you may have as good of a solution but thought I would toss this in as an option.  Some of the anti seize compounds contain metals that are quite high on the galvanic scale which concerns me some...

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Sep 4, 2016, at 11:22 AM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Alexandre,

I would change the Lanocote.  At best, it will melt and run out of the joint leaving it unprotected.  At worst it would decompose in place and potentially glue the fasteners in place.  Lanocote is made from the grease from sheep's wool and will not survive in the 600 C temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.

Bill

On Sep 4, 2016, at 07:32, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Mark & Bill, 

Thank you so much for your input.  
I just added your note on the illustration.  

Bill, do you think Lanocote will made more bad than good (and should change it now)?  

Compare to some story I remember reading with similar hours, I thought the carbon built up was pretty reasonable on mine. 
Now that I have the Blue Sea AC Multimeter, I will be able to run appropriately the genset and minimize carbon build up.  

Thanks to both of you, hope more people comment.  
Have a great weekend!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/3/16, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 3, 2016, 6:53 PM


 










Alexandre,
Great job, and helpful
pictures.
I only have
two comments.
 It is
not a good idea to reuse lock washers, especially in a high
temperature application like this.  They anneal and lose
their "spring" and do not do a good job the second
time around. 
You are
also right to use an anti seize on the bolts, unfortunately
Lanocote is not right for this application.  It will not
stand up to the temperatures of a diesel exhaust manifold.
 For engine work I use a product called
"Never-Seez" that is rated for higher
temperatures.  There are lots of others that work, most of
them are a suspension of powdered copper.
With a new gasket, and clean mating
surfaces I wouldn't use RTV on this unless I had
previous problems with leaks.  
Bill KinneyHarmonie,
SM160Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
On Sep 3,
2016, at 17:07, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 










Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.  



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator. 



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.  

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…  



Here is the link:  

http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures).  



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico













Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks Bill & Gary!

Noted on the illustration!
When I do it again, in 5 years, this time using the original part I cleaned, I will be using the high temperature RTV.

Thanks again for your input!

Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 9/4/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sunday, September 4, 2016, 9:36 PM


 









Alex,
Great photos. I read earlier a
discussion regarding RTV. I would not use high temperature
RTV on the new part, but would use it if I was refitting the
old part because of the pitting in the metal.
Thanks for the photos.
BillBeBe
387
On Sat, Sep 3, 2016 at 4:07
PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 













Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…



Here is the link: 

http://nikimat.com/onan_
exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures). 



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

































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Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Based on they previous recommendations and using Alexandre's wonderful pictures I just had the Onan exhaust elbow and manifold joint examined for carbon buildup. Sure enough, the manifold side was narrowed down to the size of a large olive.  Up to the time of this examination I did not notice any diminution of the generator running characteristics, but it would have been only a matter of time.  I am so glad that it was looked after preventively.  

Fair winds,

 Derick Gates

SM2K#400 Brava
Currently in Le Marin, Martinique


VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Alexandere,

Thank you very mych for your detail instructions with good photos.
Your work is highly appreciated by all of us.
Please advice where did you buy the elbow and how much it cost.

Vladimir,
SM #345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


On Sep 3, 2016 5:07 PM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 



Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378, Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow (and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance, having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.

For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the “Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.

Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.
I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12, 2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High Temperature RTV…

Here is the link: 
http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.

If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version (37 pictures). 

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

My pleasure Vladimir and Derick,

I am glad this can help the group!
As time goes I will make more of these!

I purchase mine from Onan when I was in San Juan Puerto Rico
http://nikimat.com/spare_parts_ONAN_MDKAL_B_Specs_12_volt.html
The cost was $475 plus tax. It is item: PN 155-3261-02 (E086)
You also need the Exhaust Gasket PN 185-6853: at $7.50 (I bought a few)
I also purchase spare bolt and upon Bill recommendation changed the 8 mm Washer locks (not purchased from Onan).

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 12/16/16, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, December 16, 2016, 6:02 PM


 









Alexandere,
Thank you very mych for your detail
instructions with good photos.

Your work is highly appreciated by all of us.

Please advice where did you buy the elbow and how much it
cost.
Vladimir,

SM #345 "LIFE IS GOOD"



On Sep 3, 2016 5:07 PM,
"Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 













Reading about Gary Silver SM#335 Liahona, Mike Gough SM 378,
Mike Ondra SM#240 Aletes about their Exhaust Mixing Elbow
(and Exhaust manifold) being blocked with carbon build up, I
decided to purchase a spare Exhaust Mixing Elbow, several
Exhaust gaskets, and change mine as preventive maintenance,
having 2014 hours on the Onan generator.



For the new owners like myself who are intimidated by new
maintenance they have not performed yet, I illustrated the
“Exhaust Elbow Replacement” on the Onan generator.



Please do not hesitate to comment, especially if I made
error, as this can only be beneficial for our group.

I can already say that re-reading Gary’s email on Feb 12,
2016, I forgot to add a thin coat of Permatex High
Temperature RTV…



Here is the link: 

http://nikimat.com/onan_
exhaust_elbow_replacement.html



For low bandwidth user, the document is split in 6 sections.




If bandwidth is not an issue, there is also the full version
(37 pictures). 



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico
































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Mark Pitt
 

Hi All,

I bought an Onan elbow and gasket from jackssmallengines.com for less just 10 days ago:

Part#

155326102 MIXER ELBOW 1 $407.98
A028X874 Gasket Exh Out Conn 2 $7.16

These are special orders but they still manage to usually ship within a week. I have dealt with them before and have had no problems.

Mark Pitt, currently in USA
Sabbatical III, ASM #419, currently in Carloforte, Italy

On 12/17/2016 7:16 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com [amelyachtowners] wrote:
My pleasure Vladimir and Derick,

I am glad this can help the group!
As time goes I will make more of these!

I purchase mine from Onan when I was in San Juan Puerto Rico
http://nikimat.com/spare_parts_ONAN_MDKAL_B_Specs_12_volt.html
The cost was $475 plus tax. It is item: PN 155-3261-02 (E086)
You also need the Exhaust Gasket PN 185-6853: at $7.50 (I bought a few)
I also purchase spare bolt and upon Bill recommendation changed the 8 mm Washer locks (not purchased from Onan).

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------


Paul Osterberg
 

Alexandre
I might have to fix my elbow as well, but can,t find the ilustration, as you ilustrations are of very pedagogical and high standard an my mechanical skills are limited it would be of great help to access tothe illustration
Paul on S/Y Kerpa currenrly in St Anne Martinique headingsoon for Bequia


Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Paul,

So glad to be useful on the forum !!!
Here is the link: http://nikimat.com/onan_exhaust_elbow_replacement.html

I need to work on my own web site one day, to make information easily accessible…

Good luck! Let us know how it goes, how obstructed it was, etc.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 12/18/16, osterberg.paul.l@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Illustration of the Onan Exhaust Elbow Replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 18, 2016, 7:45 AM


 









Alexandre

I might have to fix my elbow as well, but can,t find the
ilustration, as you ilustrations are of very pedagogical and
high standard an my mechanical skills are limited it would
be of great help to access tothe illustration

Paul on S/Y Kerpa currenrly in St Anne Martinique
headingsoon for Bequia