[Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.
The aluminum rivets are designed to break away if something stops the foil from turning. Stainless might cause the foil to be damaged instead...a very expensive repair. Kent On Sep 23, 2016, at 12:44 PM, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent, Monel is a wonderful metal but it is a lot more noble than aluminum and can make a strong galvanic couple. I wonder if stainless and lots of Tef-gel might be a better choice? Best, James Alton Maramu #220, Sueno Sent from Samsung tablet. -------- Original message -------- From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> Date: 9/23/16 17:24 (GMT+01:00) Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure. I'll be back on Kristy next week. I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4". I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel. There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard. Kent SM243 Kristy On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection. The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc. In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor. I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel. It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.
By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler? Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
The Aluminum Rivet are 6 mm x 18 mm.
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You will need a BIG rivet gun to put them in. That is the one I purchase. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SFDM/ Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 9/23/16, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure. To: "James Wendell ms42phantom54@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Friday, September 23, 2016, 9:10 AM There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection. The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc. In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor. I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel. It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc. By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler? Bill KinneySM #160, HarmonieReedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA“Ships and men rot in port."http://fetchinketch.net On Sep 22, 2016, at 22:20, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: That makes sense, Bill. Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged. So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs? What about the bow thruster? If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires. I'll be back aboard next week and look again. KentSM 243Kristy On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Kent, Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting. In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece. Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix. The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it. If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools. While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint. Bill KinneySM #160, HarmonieReedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA“Ships and men rot in port."http://fetchinketch.net On Sep 22, 2016, at 17:37, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected. Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals. Wonder why it wouldn't be? Anybody else know if their furler is connected? Kent Kent Robertsonkarkauai@... voice/text On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hello Kent, None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system..... 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James Alton
Kent, Monel is a wonderful metal but it is a lot more noble than aluminum and can make a strong galvanic couple. I wonder if stainless and lots of Tef-gel might be a better choice? Best, James Alton Maramu #220, Sueno Sent from Samsung tablet. -------- Original message -------- From: "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> Date: 9/23/16 17:24 (GMT+01:00) To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure. I'll be back on Kristy next week. I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4". I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel. There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard. Kent SM243 Kristy On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection. The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc. In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor. I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel. It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.
By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler? Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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I'll be back on Kristy next week. I'm pretty sure they are 1/4" X 3/4". I used aluminum rivets, others have recommended Monel. There is at least one extensive thread that should be easy to find searching for "rivets". If no one answers affirmatively, I will check when I get back aboard. Kent SM243 Kristy On Sep 23, 2016, at 10:10 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection. The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc. In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor. I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel. It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc.
By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler? Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
There are many things connected to the bonding system that aren’t themselves being protected from corrosion by such a connection. The bonding connections are not ONLY about corrosion protection by connection to the rudder zinc.
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In a boat where the DC neutral and the bonding system are deliberately connected, it could serve as a return path to the battery in case of a leak from the positive side of the DC system to the case of the motor. I confess to not really having a good understanding of the logic in connecting things like the bilge pump or the freshwater pump to the bonding circuit in an Amel. It certainly is not to protect them from corrosion by connecting them to the rudder zinc. By the way, does anybody know offhand the size of the rivets in the furler? Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedville, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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That makes sense, Bill. Guess I was thinking of sea water on furler, deck, hull all interconnecting as if submerged. So the furling motor is not bonded to the zincs? What about the bow thruster? If have sworn they were both connected via the yellow/green wires. I'll be back aboard next week and look again. Kent SM 243 Kristy On Sep 22, 2016, at 7:56 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent,
Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting. In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece. Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix. The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it. If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools. While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint. Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
Kent, Bonding would have no effect on corrosion here. The zinc that is attached to the bonding system has to be in the same “body of water” as the metals it is protecting. In this case the “body of water” is the tiny little puddle between the stainless steel screws and the aluminum plate. It is its own little battery, and connections to the rest of the boat are immaterial. These stainless screws seem to have been the focal point for the corrosion on my piece. Other than disassembling the furler unit, this is an easy fix. The plate is just a round piece of 1/4 inch aluminum with four holes in it. If I was in a remote place, I could make it on the boat with hand tools. While I have things apart, I am taking Kent's suggestion and finding a local powder coat shop to have everything made pretty… hopefully for much longer than paint. Bill Kinney SM #160, Harmonie Reedvile, VA, Chesapeake Bay, USA “Ships and men rot in port."
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I don't know if the furler on Kristy is connected. Sure seems like it should be...exposed to sea water, dissimilar metals. Wonder why it wouldn't be? Anybody else know if their furler is connected? On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:02 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Hello Kent, None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system..... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Hello Kent,
None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system..... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 |
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Hello Kent,
None of the rigging on my SM is attached to the bonding system..... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 |
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Mark Pitt
Hi Bill, I had this plate corrode on my Super Maramu in 2011. One day I noticed the corrosion and kept my eye in it for a couple of months as it progressed fairly quickly. I could not detect an electrical or other source for the problem. I was in Indonesia and ordered a new one from Amel to be shipped to Singapore and worried that the plate might fall apart before I got there. I used some Amsteel line to strengthen it. The new ones are cut in half so that you can install it without having to remove the foil from the furler. It has been five years since I replaced the plate and it still looks perfect. I have no idea why the original plate corroded but it gave the appearance of an electrical leak. Mark Pitt Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Corsica On Sep 22, 2016, at 5:56 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Just shooting from the hip here Bill, I've not heard of a failure like that before. Glad you were able to get it furled manually...did you have the manual furler set up already? Certainly corrosion the most likely culprit, but why such catastrophic failure? 1. Could there have been some stray current involved? 2. I'm sure it should be attached to the bonding system, if that failed, it might not have been protected. The aluminum would go b4 the SS. I couldn't keep paint on my furler despite two "professional" paint jobs. I finally took it apart and had it powder coated 3 years ago and so far looks great. Could the bolts have been tightened too much creating cracks that allowed water ingress? Will be interested to hear what you find. Kent SM 243 Kristy On Sep 22, 2016, at 10:58 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
In the SM jib furler, there is an aluminum plate that transfers the torque from the motor to the foil via the release pin. It has one large hole in it that accepts the release pin, and smaller holes which take machine screws down into the rotating part of the motor. Yesterday while sailing in 20 to 25 knots of wind, close-hauled, with the jib rolled up to its second reef mark, that plate self destructed, cracking into several pieces releasing the jib foil from the furler motor. I am happy to report the manual furling system does work, after a fashion. I haven’t had the chance to disassemble things yet to see if other damage occurred as well which might have either caused, or been caused by, the plate failure.
Anybody see this failure before? Other than it’s old and showed signs of corrosion, which is certainly sufficient to be the primary cause, anybody have another potential cause I should look out for? Bill Kinney SM#160, Harmonie Chesapeake Bay, VA, USA |
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