I like the idea!
Adding duck seal on my list of things to find!
Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 10/17/16, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, October 17, 2016, 9:26 PM


 









I have had great
success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in
this manner:I use a clay like
substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.I build up a small dam
around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster
for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time
if not I continue the process eventually they come
out.It is also important to
try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB
blaster.When I re install them
I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is
especially good on the outhaul shaft.Works like a
charm.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376    From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48
AM
To:
amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Windlass bolt to deck    Mike,Danny's thru-bolt
solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out,
will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt
you've got left above deck you may want to try removing
it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may
shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some
acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two
nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could
weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and
use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may
also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're
likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to
using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threadsGood luck with
it,Craig
Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 

---In amelyachtowners@...,
<simms@...> wrote
:Hi mike.
I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut
top and bottom
I  lost a lot of sweat and
blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a
cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the
standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a
boat in an exotic location.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone SmartOn Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM,
"'Mike Ondra' mdondra@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote: [Attachment(s) from
Mike Ondra included below]As others may have experienced
with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts
were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into
the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in
steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain
coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the
hawse pipe. In attempting removal the bolt
head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as
pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am
afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining
bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My
question is what have others done in this situation? I can envision finding a coupling
that could be used but would require an enlargement of the
bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The
stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with
new holes for all bolts. Thoughts? Mike OndraAletes SM#240Rock Hall,
MD 










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On Oct 17, 2016, at 22:26, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... melyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner:

I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.

I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out.

It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster.

When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft.

Works like a charm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck

 

  

Mike,

Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads

Good luck with it,

Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. 

---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :

Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
I  lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location.
Cheers
Danny
SM 299 ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

[Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]

As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe.

 

In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation?

 

I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts.

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD