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[Amel Yacht Owners] Two RCD devices triggered simultaneously

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Bill,

The resistance part arrived on Thursday and the total cost was €52 / $55.50.  It is a "Quick"-brand supplied part, as it came in a plastic bag with the Quick logo, part number, and bar code.  It is the same as my old part which was installed in Ft Lauderdale in April 2014.

It came with two gaskets, one larger and one smaller, which are installed one on top of each other.  The old part's gasket was either a one-part stepped gasket with a larger and a smaller section or two gaskets fused with time and heat to form one apparent unit.

The actual manufacturer is "RECO", and it is made in Italy.  I agree with you that this is most likely a generic part. When the local Quick dealer called the factory with the part number I supplied, Quick did not recognize the part number (!) but instead just wanted to know the watts and volts.

Peregrinus used to have a 600W resistance but since April 2014 we've been on 1200W units.  The zinc on my 2.5-year old resistance was gone; now that I know how to install this, I will inspect once a year as the manual states.  I'll be ordering spares on Monday.

Thanks again,

SM2K Nr. 350
San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Kent.

I was able to dislodge it with a giant set of pliers (I know, not ideal).  The replacement part is to arrive Thu or Fri and when I go pick it up I'll request a 55mm hex nut.

I'll post pricing details for the electric resistance when I actually pay but over the phone I understood about €85, with taxes and shipping to the store.

Cheers,



---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

The heating element on the Quick Nautical Boiler B3 40L has a 55mm hex nut.  You need a 55mm immersion box wrench to remove it.  It's an axle nut wrench that you should be able to purchase at a Napa or other auto parts store.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Kent Robertson
 

The heating element on the Quick Nautical Boiler B3 40L has a 55mm hex nut.  You need a 55mm immersion box wrench to remove it.  It's an axle nut wrench that you should be able to purchase at a Napa or other auto parts store.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Francisco,

Good, I am glad that it worked for you.

Tell us how much you paid for the part.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 28, 2016 10:42 AM, "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill.  I just removed it.  Quick B3... unscrews through about 10 turns counterclockwise.  


It is Italian-made, so off to the hardware store I go.

Thanks again,


svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Bill.  I just removed it.  Quick B3... unscrews through about 10 turns counterclockwise.  

It is Italian-made, so off to the hardware store I go.

Thanks again,

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

It may depend on the brand, and frankly, I do not remember, except that I believe it turns one-quarter turn...try a YouTube search for "water heater heating element replacement."

I am sure that you will find one similar to yours.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 28, 2016 10:05 AM, "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Many thanks for all the advice... so, the heating element... it is a giant bolt, right?  The largest I have is a 38mm and it is far too small!  


Remove by turning counterclockwise, I suppose?

Thanks again!

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Many thanks for all the advice... so, the heating element... it is a giant bolt, right?  The largest I have is a 38mm and it is far too small!  

Remove by turning counterclockwise, I suppose?

Thanks again!

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian, that is an important comment. If you buy the element at a marine store, it could be hundreds of dollars/euros.

However, if you buy the element at a plumbing supply shop, it will be less than a hundred dollars/euros.

The first time I replaced mine I bought it at a marine store and paid hundreds. The second time I replaced it, I was in the Manoel Island Shipyard and they replaced it for 130 euro including labor. The element they sourced did not come with a gasket. They tried to use the old one, but it leaked. They had to repeat the installation process, fabricating a new gasket by cutting one out of gasket material. By the way, this is a GREAT yard.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 28, 2016 7:46 AM, "Ian Park parkianj@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Agree. Your heating element is burned out and short circuiting. Empty the tank, remove and replace. They are only domestic items so shoulder be cheap.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Ian Park
 

Agree. Your heating element is burned out and short circuiting. Empty the tank, remove and replace. They are only domestic items so shoulder be cheap.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN96

Kent Robertson
 

Hi Peregrinus,
The RCDs protect against a ground fault, not an overcurrent situation.  Even a small current going to ground will trip the RCDs.  It is most likely your heating element in the water heater, but could also be the thermostat.  I guess there could also be a fault in the wiring to the water heater, but that's unlikely.

I'm not an electrician, but here's how I was told to troubleshoot:

I have a Quick Nautical Boiler.   Check both the thermostat and heating element for continuity between the line and ground, and between neutral and ground.  If you find any connection, thats the culprit.

If it were an overcurrent problem and tripped the breaker, you would check the resistance between line and neutral on both the thermostat and the element.  On my Quick Boiler, the heating element should show ~40 Ohms.  Sorry, I don't remember what the thermostat should show.  If it differed significantly from your new spare thermostat or heating element, that's your culprit.

Hope that makes sense, please correct me if I've got something wrong here.

Kent
Kristy
SM243
Panama

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Francisco,

Your electric heating element inside  the water heater has developed pin holes. Water enters the pin holes and causes a ground fault. The element needs replacing. Be sure to get a new element gasket when you get the element, or material to make a gasket.

You do not need to remove the water heater. Turn off the fresh water and open a tap to bleed the pressure. When you remove the element about 20 liters of water will come out and will drain to the gray water sump. I suggest that you use a wet-vac to vacuum the rest of the water out. It is also normal to see some rusty water. Do not be surprised if you find some pieces of plastic wire ties. I am told the manufacturer uses these wire ties in the assembly, although it seems strange for them to be there. I have seen this several times.  These elements have a life of about 5-7 years.

Let me know if you need more information.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 28, 2016 6:09 AM, "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Peregrinus,


I had the same symptoms when the heating element burnt out.  I suggest you start with this.

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera, SM 007
Lanzarote


On 28 Nov 2016, at 10:04, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello, this morning when I turned on the water heater, the boat immediately lost 220V power.  When one depresses the 220V panel water heater, two things happen at the same time:


1.  The RCD device at the dock kills power to all 4 boats that use the same column.

2.  The RCD device we installed in the engine room for all incoming shore power also triggers at the same time.


None of the above happens when power is re-enabled and consumers are turned on, except if one again turns on the water heater.


No actual breakers inside nor outside the boat are triggered.  For example, the dock-side 10A breaker does not trigger.  Only the RCD device protecting all 4 breakers for all 4 boats.


What do you think?  Thanks in advance,


Peregrinus

SM2K No. 350 (2002)

Compagnia della Vela, Venice




Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Peregrinus,

I had the same symptoms when the heating element burnt out.  I suggest you start with this.

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera, SM 007
Lanzarote


On 28 Nov 2016, at 10:04, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello, this morning when I turned on the water heater, the boat immediately lost 220V power.  When one depresses the 220V panel water heater, two things happen at the same time:


1.  The RCD device at the dock kills power to all 4 boats that use the same column.

2.  The RCD device we installed in the engine room for all incoming shore power also triggers at the same time.


None of the above happens when power is re-enabled and consumers are turned on, except if one again turns on the water heater.


No actual breakers inside nor outside the boat are triggered.  For example, the dock-side 10A breaker does not trigger.  Only the RCD device protecting all 4 breakers for all 4 boats.


What do you think?  Thanks in advance,


Peregrinus

SM2K No. 350 (2002)

Compagnia della Vela, Venice



Jean-Pierre Germain,
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...

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