Well, it seems the first time is always some complication.  The watermaker is leaking at the interconnect bobbin when doing the freshwater rinse.  The only reason it seems to me is if the bobbin was not straight into the holes on both of the membrane tubes.  I used a new bobbin and O-Rings, so that's not it.

Any thoughts on how to be sure it's straight in?  It looked good to me when I was putting it back together.

I guess I get to disassemble it one more time!


Wanderer, SM477

amelliahona <no_reply@...>

Hi Duane:

As with all things plumbing trial and error is the rule.  With a new bobbin and new O-rings that leaves only some sort of damage or contamination of the O-rings, or the bore into which the bobbin fits or your suspected alignment problem.  

How much leakage did you have?  Drops or a gusher?   A seep or drops.  Did you inspect the bore for damage or contamination prior to re-assembly?  Did you lube your O-rings with something to make sure they didn't twist or become deformed while installing them on the bobbin or while inserting the bobbin in its bores?

Just some thoughts. 

Hope you are able to remedy the situation. 


Gary S. Silver  s/v Liahona  Amel SM #335  with 160 l/hr Dessalator water maker with re-engineered inline continuous EC (electrical conductivity aka salinity) monitor with alarm and manual control switch for the save/discard solenoid.  

Dessalator took a rather simple system and totally screwed it up by attempting to automate it and then not monitoring their vendors to assure they were providing the proper circuity to do what was promised.  In case some on this forum aren't aware, the Dessalator water makers of my vintage of boat were installed with sham good/bad water sensors and sham circuity  for monitoring water quality.  New owners be aware of this and make certain your system has appropriate water quality measuring capability.



It creates a puddle promptly.  I haven't yet taken it back apart.

I wonder if the Duo 60 L/H version has the same problem with the salinity meter?  I sent Maud an email asking about that some time ago and she replied that Amel had never heard of such an issue.  I don't have the test tap to check the product water so I'm going to have to rig one  in the engine room and use a handheld TDS meter.

Question:  It seems there is no manual way to check for salinity and decide to discard the product water, it's all done by the watermaker control panel internally?


Alan Leslie

Hi Duane

we have  Duo 60 and the light turns from bad to good after two minutes regardless...
I have to say tho that the water is good after two minutes...I always test it with a TDS meter.
I'm sure the sensor is not connected

Elyse SM 437

Paul Osterberg

We hardly get any water out of the tap at the control panel for testing, when we start the WM there is always a lot if air in the flow glas but it dissapeare after afew minutes, capacity around 45 to 50 litrs for our D60. Anyone know what the problem could be?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM 259 heading fo St Lucia