[Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling


Bob Grey
 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123


greatketch@...
 

On the TMD22 the oil cooler is not likely to be the problem. It is not a shell and tube heat exchanger, rather it is just an aluminum box bolted to a flat spot on the transmission.  I'll be polite and call it a "minimalist design". Certainly it provides minimal cooling.

I saw some of the same temperature behavior on my TMD22 until I changed the impeller on the routine maintenance schedule.  Although the old one looked fine, after the change the temperature was much better behaved at near full throttle.  It still runs up a little, but only about 20 degrees and then stabilizes.  I  do not KNOW that the new impeller was  the cure, since I did some other maintenance and fussing as well, but it would be my best guess.

On those TMD22 transmission coolers, be sure to add those to your maintenance schedule if they are not already there.  With three different metals, and high velocity seawater they corrode at a rather quick pace.  Having one fail and fill your engine room with salt water will ruin your day!

Bill Kinney
SM160 Harmonie
Isla Caja de Muertos, PR

 


Mark Erdos
 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Yes, a raw water impeller can pump less water without throwing a blade. Each engine/generator will wear out impellers at different rates. I believe that you should get to know this and replace your impeller every year or X hours. For the Yanmar 100hp, X is 400; and for the Onan, X is 200 hours. Don't use Globe Run Dry because their quality control is very poor. 

I also believe that there is no reason for saltwater anywhere in the engine room, unless you have the unfortunate experience of a closed system rupture. I always used a wet vac whenever opening any hose fitting, or closed system. Do this and you will be salt and corrosion-free. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Mar 31, 2017 08:40, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

On the TMD22 the oil cooler is not likely to be the problem. It is not a shell and tube heat exchanger, rather it is just an aluminum box bolted to a flat spot on the transmission.  I'll be polite and call it a "minimalist design". Certainly it provides minimal cooling.


I saw some of the same temperature behavior on my TMD22 until I changed the impeller on the routine maintenance schedule.  Although the old one looked fine, after the change the temperature was much better behaved at near full throttle.  It still runs up a little, but only about 20 degrees and then stabilizes.  I  do not KNOW that the new impeller was  the cure, since I did some other maintenance and fussing as well, but it would be my best guess.

On those TMD22 transmission coolers, be sure to add th ose to your maintenance schedule if they are not already there.  With three different metals, and high velocity seawater they corrode at a rather quick pace.  Having one fail and fill your engine room with salt water will ruin your day!

Bill Kinney
SM160 Harmonie
Isla Caja de Muertos, PR

 


Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


eric freedman
 

Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.

Did you try changing the entire pump?

Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.

Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

 


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

When you change the impeller, closely compare the old one to the new one. I believe that you will probably find the same thing I have with wear at the ends of the blades. Once I found what appeared to be a 45° angle cut at the end of used impeller blades, with all of the thickened ends of the blades worn off. It was wear. 

I am aware of the rubber separating from the metal hub with low hour impellers which are left in place for over a year. This causes the rubber to slip on the hub, reducing water flow. 

I think most of us consider only missing blades as an indication of failure. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 07:56, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...om>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , I agree , if all the blades are intact one assumes all is good. I had a problem on a previous boat where the plate on the pump behind the impeller wore as well as the cover plate diminishing efficiency .
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:44 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,

When you change the impeller, closely compare the old one to the new one. I believe that you will probably find the same thing I have with wear at the ends of the blades. Once I found what appeared to be a 45° angle cut at the end of used impeller blades, with all of the thickened ends of the blades worn off. It was wear. 

I am aware of the rubber separating from the metal hub with low hour impellers which are left in place for over a year. This causes the rubber to slip on the hub, reducing water flow. 

I think most of us consider only missing blades as an indication of failure. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 07:56, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...om>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.
Did you try changing the entire pump?
Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Yes, check everything from the sea chest to the impeller on the engine.
 
 
Bill
 
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
 


eric freedman
 

Pat,

I believe you can flip the plate over and use the other side.

If you have an opportunity get some thumb screws. They make taking the plate off much easier.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.

Did you try changing the entire pump?

Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.

Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

 


Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , I did not want to suggest flipping the plate without looking at it first , but you may be right , because I remember being able to flip the plate on my previous boat.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 10:27 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
I believe you can flip the plate over and use the other side.
If you have an opportunity get some thumb screws. They make taking the plate off much easier.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.
Did you try changing the entire pump?
Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Yes, check everything from the sea chest to the impeller on the engine.
 
 
Bill
 
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123