[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Duo 60 Watermaker


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

It will take time for the TDS of the tank to decrease. Also dock water can also have high TDS. 

I will try to get you a photo of where to open the product water line to test TDS, but it is the blue plastic line with the Dessalator in-line test probe that has two wires attached. Follow it down toward the bulkhead where it is attached to a copper line which drains into the tank. 

Some owners have placed a three-way valve at this point which will allow for testing and/or dumping poor quality into the gray water tank. You will find that the product water is initially higher TDS, dropping to a good reading in a few minutes. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970






   

On May 13, 2017 06:41, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


Thanks for the reply.  

It makes sense that it's either a seal or a membrane.  The easiest thing would be to just replace all the O-rings and see if that takes care of the problem.  "Easy" is a relative term since it's a real bear to remount the unit, it would help if I had three arms!

Duane


Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

Just got back to civilization (with internet)!  I'll look forward to the photo if it's not too much trouble.

Duane


Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

I am 99.9% sure I have the hose identified for you in the attached photo. I am not 100% sure because I am not aboard a SM at this time.



Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

On Tue, May 16, 2017 at 3:40 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


Just got back to civilization (with internet)!  I'll look forward to the photo if it's not too much trouble.

Duane



Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

See the attached photo. I am 100% sure that this is the Product Water Line from the Dessalator.




Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Duane,

Where are you checking the water quality? You may want to disconnect the blue plastic line which is the output line to the freshwater tank. This line comes from the watermaker control panel and connects to a copper pipe which empties into your freshwater tank. This line has now pressure and has a flow rate based on the capacity of your water maker which is 60 liters per hour. Test that water.

It is possible that the water maker is running at too high pressure and that the HP gauge is not accurate. What rate does the clear flow sight glass show? It should read no higher than 60.

Were the O rings replaced? It is possible that an O ring was damaged in the replacement. Saltwater may be passing by a damaged O ring. In my experience, new membranes will provide close to 100PPM when new and degrade to about 300PPM in 3-4 years.

Based on the information you provided, that is the best I can do for you.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Amel School www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550




On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 1:24 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Duane,


I assume you have tested the water right of of the watermaker itself and it shows the same salt content?  If not, then it is a tank problem...

I wish I had a simple answer for you...  There are two likely causes for high solids content in the permeate from an RO unit: a bad seal or a bad membrane.

The first thing I would try to do is to isolate the problem to one of the two pressure vessels. Try disconnecting the product water lines from the two membrane housings, and collect permeate from each of them separately.  
I'll bet you find one very much saltier than the other, and we would then know where the problem is.  In the unlikely case BOTH are equally bad, you might have gotten a bad batch of membranes, but that seems unlikely.  Could also have been a technique problem in installation of the membranes if Dessalator's instructions were not closely followed.

Now comes the hard part...

Seal? or Membrane?

Since we have (hopefully) now shown that one combination of membrane and pressure vessel is the source of the problem, we need to figure out is it seal, or membrane. With the membrane in the housing, I know of no test that would give a differential diagnosis between those.  If we remove the membrane, we can test it separately.  It is a bit involved, but not too bad...  Here is a description of the process:  http://www.membranes.com/docs/tsb/TSB101.pdf

The alternative to that complex test is to just replace the bad membrane with its seals.  But before you do, check the housing VERY carefully for any scratches or roughness in the places where the seals seat.  When you install a new membrane, be sure to follow the instructi ons from Dessalator exactly.

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI.