Topics

[Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading


Jose Venegas
 

I had not mentioned that before leaving Carriacou the engine did not start. There was no lighting on the instrument panel
It took a few minutes to find that the 12V + cable was corroded and separated from the panel. So, I removed the corroded part of the cable and the engine started. After less than a few minutes the sails were up and the engine turned it off for the next 50 hours while we sailed with the asymetric spy and the mizzen staysail on a great broad reach with 18 knots of breeze. The “overheating” only observed when we started the engine again to motor sail from Bonaire towards curaçao.

Yesterday I conducted a few more tests:
First, I unscrewed the sensor from the engine and submerged its tip on a small container with hot water at 160 F degrees. When I turned on the engine switch it was reading 200 F. So that confirmed that it had to be either the sensor or the gauge, at least I though. However when I dismounted the instrument panel to check if corrosion was involved in the problem, the temperature readings became erratic going from 120 to 220 up and down depending on how I moved the cables behind the panel. I went on and cleaned al the connections I could find and after fiddling with the cables the temperature of the water and that of the gauge coincided in a systematic manner.

CONCLUSION: the engine was never overheating. The sensor and the gauge were OK. The reason for the bad reading was corrosion on the cables behind the instrument panel. No need to change the gauge, or the sensor, I am just going by buy a new set of cables and two gun infrared thermometers!

I hope the this may help others when they have a similar problem

Thanks to all for providing very helpful suggestions:

Jose Venegas
Ipanema
SM2K 278


Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, Well if your antifreeze is only warm when the gauge reads 225 or higher ,then its obviously not running hot and it is likely a sensor or gauge issue. When you pulled out the H/E core was there a round ring on the core about 3/4 of the way down the core . It is a round ring that slides tightly over the core ,it is about 1/4" larger on the outside ,it closes off a hole inside the H/E housing ,forcing the water to go thru the core ,rather than bypassing the core thus not cooling the water. Take the core out ,then with a flashlight look into the housing and you will see a bulkhead which the core passes thru ,the gasket seals that hole in the bulkhead. Without the core being sealed  temps increase at higher RPMs.
Hope this helps ,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2020 1:21 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Pat, thanks for the suggestions.
Yes I am going to order 2 infrared guns!  Sounds like a good thing to have.
I cleaned the heat exchanger in March and the boat sat at Le Phare Blue (Grenada) for 5 months.  Also, the temperature gauge read high even at idle RPM.  So I think I can exclude the heat exchanger.
No, I did not see steam pushing past the radiator cap.  There were a few bubbles of air that came out but the antifreeze was only warm.
Ipanema has still the original Volvo Penta TM22. 
Is the rubber ring/gasket the one that looks like a radiator the cap?
I will conduct later on a test of the heat sensor to see how accurate it is and compare the temp with that of an infrared gun.
So, the saga continues

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278


Jose Venegas
 

Pat, thanks for the suggestions.
Yes I am going to order 2 infrared guns!  Sounds like a good thing to have.
I cleaned the heat exchanger in March and the boat sat at Le Phare Blue (Grenada) for 5 months.  Also, the temperature gauge read high even at idle RPM.  So I think I can exclude the heat exchanger.
No, I did not see steam pushing past the radiator cap.  There were a few bubbles of air that came out but the antifreeze was only warm.
Ipanema has still the original Volvo Penta TM22. 
Is the rubber ring/gasket the one that looks like a radiator the cap?
I will conduct later on a test of the heat sensor to see how accurate it is and compare the temp with that of an infrared gun.
So, the saga continues

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278


Patrick McAneny
 

Jose, It sounds as though you think it may be a matter of sensors giving you a false reading ,yet you said the exhaust was steaming ,was there other signs of overheating ,like antifreeze  or steam pushing past the radiator cap. To bad you don't have a infrared gun, I have two to take readings to make sure they agree . I have not read any mention of the heat exchanger, have you cleaned it ? If it is clogged your temps can be normal at low RPMs and go up quickly with an increase in the RPM. What engine do you have ? If it is a Volvo than I had a overheating issue like I just described and discovered it was a rubber ring/gasket in the H/E . You should find a previous post describing the issue in detail. If you have a Volvo and you cannot find my previous post ,let me know and I will explain about this ring and its function and how if it is missing , your temps rise with the rpms.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...>
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Sent: Fri, Sep 4, 2020 12:09 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

Thank you for the suggestions.  I know that both thermostats are OK, they open before the water boils.  I will make the test of the sensor/gauge with boiling water to see if it is a measurement problem.  I like the idea of having a second measurement available and perhaps the infrared thermometer is the best because it can be used in other parts like the generator or the batteries.  

Craig, the thermostat does two things.  Open the outlet towards the heat exchanger and closes the pathway for recirculation.  Removing the thermostat opens the outlet to the heat exchanger but leaves the path for recirculation open.  Yes this should reduce the temperature in the sensor but may still leave the engine hotter by allowing recirculation. 
It is a good temporary solution when you have no spare thermostat. 

Unfortunately, Bonaire is full and they are not allowing any more boats.  Now is even worse since Curaçao has developed a second wave of Covid19. Onle 32 cases but   still increasing. We are awaiting for Cartagena to open but that may be more than a month away.  Still, I hope our paths will cross soon. 

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 2K 278
Seru Boca Marina, Curaçai


Jose Venegas
 

Thank you for the suggestions.  I know that both thermostats are OK, they open before the water boils.  I will make the test of the sensor/gauge with boiling water to see if it is a measurement problem.  I like the idea of having a second measurement available and perhaps the infrared thermometer is the best because it can be used in other parts like the generator or the batteries.  

Craig, the thermostat does two things.  Open the outlet towards the heat exchanger and closes the pathway for recirculation.  Removing the thermostat opens the outlet to the heat exchanger but leaves the path for recirculation open.  Yes this should reduce the temperature in the sensor but may still leave the engine hotter by allowing recirculation. 
It is a good temporary solution when you have no spare thermostat. 

Unfortunately, Bonaire is full and they are not allowing any more boats.  Now is even worse since Curaçao has developed a second wave of Covid19. Onle 32 cases but   still increasing. We are awaiting for Cartagena to open but that may be more than a month away.  Still, I hope our paths will cross soon. 

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM 2K 278
Seru Boca Marina, Curaçai


Craig Briggs
 

Hi José,
Next time just remove the thermostat (don't put in the spare).  It is not too important anyway as it simply allows the engine to come up to temperature more quickly by restricting the cooling water flow - once the engine is hot the thermostat is irrelevant. So, with no thermostat you can clearly observe the flow of coolant by leaving the cap off. Then you can differentiate between a failed cooling water pump and a bad temperature sender (or connections in its circuit). As you noted, you had already eliminated a raw water problem. After you sort that out you can test the thermostats by putting them in boiling water and seeing if they open and maybe not have to order a new one (pretty unlikely you've got two failed ones). 
Going diving in Bonaire?  I'm jealous.
Ciao, Craig  - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Elja Röllinghoff Balu SM 222
 

t is perhaps a good idea to install a thermometer to control the temperature exhaust water . Then you have a reference .

Best Elja
SM Balu 222

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Kevin Schmit
 

Use a handheld I/R (Infared Thermometer} to get independent temp readings.


On Sep 3, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Jose Venegas via groups.io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

This was a very useful 3-year-old set of postings for me.  We just crossed from Grenada to Curaçao sailing for 48 hours with double spy and 18-22 knots of wind from the starboard stern.  As we got close to Bonaire on Sunday morning, the wind began to drop and, to make sure we got to Curaçao before the marina personnel left, I turned the engine on to motor sail when the wind dropped to 10 knots. We kept our 6 knots of speed, and everything was fine until the corner of my eye showed the temp gauge pegged at 250 F !!!.     The raw water stream from the exhaust U pipe was luck warm and I proceeded to make a quick change of thermostat for a brand new I had on board.  No luck, the temp went back to 250.  At his point, it became a matter of sailing with winds of 4 to 6 knots as we approached the entrance of the Punta Santa Barbara channel that leads into the Ceru Boca marina and tied up at a pier on the channel just before the sun disappeared from the horizon.  Next early morning I  took apart the thermostat housing again, cleaned the surfaces, and closed it again.  The test appeared successful for 10 minutes or more at 1500 RPM under load  (Temp 200 F)  but as we proceeded to motor up the few miles to the Marina, the temp went up again to 250 F for just a few seconds before it came back to 230 F.   Yesterday, I ran a new test, this time at 1800 RMP for more than 15 minutes and the temp when up and remained at 220.  I noticed that with the radiator cap opened the seem to be movement of the antifreeze and few gas bubbles would come out once in a while.  This, I thought, was meant that there was a flow of antifreeze but its temperature was bearly warm. 
After reading this set of posts, It seems possible that it could be either a faulty sensor, the gauge, or the cable to the gauge.  Any other thoughts/suggestions.  I am ordering a new thermostat to the US in the next few days.

Hope you are all well and sailing.
Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K   278


Jose Venegas
 

This was a very useful 3-year-old set of postings for me.  We just crossed from Grenada to Curaçao sailing for 48 hours with double spy and 18-22 knots of wind from the starboard stern.  As we got close to Bonaire on Sunday morning, the wind began to drop and, to make sure we got to Curaçao before the marina personnel left, I turned the engine on to motor sail when the wind dropped to 10 knots. We kept our 6 knots of speed, and everything was fine until the corner of my eye showed the temp gauge pegged at 250 F !!!.     The raw water stream from the exhaust U pipe was luck warm and I proceeded to make a quick change of thermostat for a brand new I had on board.  No luck, the temp went back to 250.  At his point, it became a matter of sailing with winds of 4 to 6 knots as we approached the entrance of the Punta Santa Barbara channel that leads into the Ceru Boca marina and tied up at a pier on the channel just before the sun disappeared from the horizon.  Next early morning I  took apart the thermostat housing again, cleaned the surfaces, and closed it again.  The test appeared successful for 10 minutes or more at 1500 RPM under load  (Temp 200 F)  but as we proceeded to motor up the few miles to the Marina, the temp went up again to 250 F for just a few seconds before it came back to 230 F.   Yesterday, I ran a new test, this time at 1800 RMP for more than 15 minutes and the temp when up and remained at 220.  I noticed that with the radiator cap opened the seem to be movement of the antifreeze and few gas bubbles would come out once in a while.  This, I thought, was meant that there was a flow of antifreeze but its temperature was bearly warm. 
After reading this set of posts, It seems possible that it could be either a faulty sensor, the gauge, or the cable to the gauge.  Any other thoughts/suggestions.  I am ordering a new thermostat to the US in the next few days.

Hope you are all well and sailing.
Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K   278


Patrick McAneny
 

Alex, Todd had a SM for a year or so and had just this spring bought a Maramu . I hope this does not come to pass , but it looks like Hurricane Maria may pass through the Virgins . We already feel so bad for the people there , they surely don't need this , we hope they are spared from further damage , they have had enough! 
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigans



-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Sep 18, 2017 8:18 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

 
Thank you Pat & Diane,

Whether it was for maintenance & repairs over the last 5 years, or during Hurricane Irma, I have received a tremendous support, so I will try to continue to be participate on the forum.

I have hundred of pictures that I haven’t categorized.

Was Todd Duff owning a Santorin? If so, I remember seeing the boat almost a year ago.

Thanks for your kind message.
Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 9/17/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, September 17, 2017, 5:31 PM


 









Alexandre
, I am humbled that amid all the chaos around you , you
would take  your time to respond . Diane and I have been
following you constantly on facebook well before Irma
struck. We could not be sadder for your lose , and for the
extremely difficult times you are going through . Take heart
in the knowledge that hundreds of people around the world
have you in their thoughts and prayers. We have another
friend that lives and works in the BVIs , and has for
decades , Todd Duff . Todd also lost his Amel in Nanny Cay ,
if he reads this , we would like him to know as well , that
we are thinking of him and his family and wish them a timely
recovery.
Best of Luck Alex,

Pat & Diane,

SM Shenanigans






-----Original
Message-----

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@...>

Sent: Sun, Sep 17, 2017 9:30 am

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature
reading








 













Good afternoon Pat,





I am slowly reading, in disorder, the Amel post and wanted
to share my experience on the engine temperature.


The gage was showing my engine was running 195*F, I thought
it was 10*F higher than normal.


So 3 years ago in Florida, a diesel company pushed me in
spending over $8,000 in engine work over a 5 months period
(heat exchanger cooling, re-calibrate injector, new turbo,
thermostat, and so on) then my engine was running even
warmer (205*F) (which we later find was due to an air pocket
in the radiator - then I was glad to be back 195*F.


The gage was tested and was ok.


Then at the end I had a 2nd gage installed on the engine and
it showed a 20*F cooler temperature…


So looking back I think it was the “wire” between the
sensor and the gage that was getting old and showing a false
reading.


Based on my experience and the fact you also have a 20*F
difference between the gage and infrared gun, I suspect you
have the same issue as I had.





Sincerely, Alexandre


SM2K #289 NIKIMAT


Lost on September 5 during Hurricane Irma at


IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA





--------------------------------------------


On Sat, 9/16/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:





Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature
reading


To: amelyachtowners@...


Date: Saturday, September 16, 2017, 8:18 AM








 





























Mark, I


for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just
another


complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought
up


one other issue that I am dealing with , engine
temperature


. I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few
years


ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic


installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to


bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me ,


seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo


sender without regulating the signal. So I have never
had


faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge
reads


225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have
had


readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason
I


have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat


exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc.
I


am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not ,
not


sure what one would expect the temp to be at the
thermostat


, two different guns give me different readings and the


gauge can't be trusted.


Its always something,





Pat 





SM#123




















-----Original


Message-----





From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...


[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>





To: amelyachtowners


<amelyachtowners@...>





Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm





Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs


























 










































































Pat,











 











Salt water is


the enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as
I


am not familiar


with the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may
be


getting a fine mist or


steam into the turbo. I am really not sure.











 











On the Yanmar


it is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon


coated sides can aid to


a back up of water into the turbo as the walls can
retain


water once the engine


is stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust


manifolds clean is also


a good thing.











 











Yanmar makes a


cleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as
well.


It involves two


people, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another
to


spray cleaner into


the tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at
a


high rate. This


removes any carbon buildup from the turbo.











 











Diesels do need


to be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long
hours


at low RPM. They really


don’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about
2-3


minutes every hour, or


so. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2
minutes.


This also helps to


see if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the
heat


exchanger is


clogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous


about this every time I


do it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts
flying


everywhere in the


engine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.











 











IMHO, turbo


chargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add
more


horses with less


weight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I


think this is a fine


example of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine
for


a marine environment


without thinking it through. And, the marine market is
not


large enough for a


committed marine diesel engine company. How nice would it
be


to have a simple diesel


engine with a  compression release lever and a back up


crank start. Kinda like


the tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to
make


things more complicated


for sailors. But then again, what do I know.











 




















 











With best


regards,











 











Mark











 











Skipper











Sailing Vessel


- Cream Puff











www.creampuff.us




















 





























From: amelyachtowners@...


[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]











Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM








To: amelyachtowners@...








Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs





























 











 






































Mark


,  What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the


carbon ?I just


rebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I


think I would prefer a


naturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate
 free


, but put


it back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm
tops.


It must be the


turbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it.
That


will now be about


$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about
the


same as fuel. This


is probably my fault for not running the engine hard
enough


. From now on , I


am going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy
























Thanks all for the


input,





























Pat SM#123





Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thank you Pat & Diane,

Whether it was for maintenance & repairs over the last 5 years, or during Hurricane Irma, I have received a tremendous support, so I will try to continue to be participate on the forum.

I have hundred of pictures that I haven’t categorized.

Was Todd Duff owning a Santorin? If so, I remember seeing the boat almost a year ago.

Thanks for your kind message.
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 9/17/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, September 17, 2017, 5:31 PM


 









Alexandre
, I am humbled that amid all the chaos around you , you
would take  your time to respond . Diane and I have been
following you constantly on facebook well before Irma
struck. We could not be sadder for your lose , and for the
extremely difficult times you are going through . Take heart
in the knowledge that hundreds of people around the world
have you in their thoughts and prayers. We have another
friend that lives and works in the BVIs , and has for
decades , Todd Duff . Todd also lost his Amel in Nanny Cay ,
if he reads this , we would like him to know as well , that
we are thinking of him and his family and wish them a timely
recovery.
Best of Luck Alex,

Pat & Diane,

SM Shenanigans






-----Original
Message-----

From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@...>

Sent: Sun, Sep 17, 2017 9:30 am

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature
reading








 













Good afternoon Pat,





I am slowly reading, in disorder, the Amel post and wanted
to share my experience on the engine temperature.


The gage was showing my engine was running 195*F, I thought
it was 10*F higher than normal.


So 3 years ago in Florida, a diesel company pushed me in
spending over $8,000 in engine work over a 5 months period
(heat exchanger cooling, re-calibrate injector, new turbo,
thermostat, and so on) then my engine was running even
warmer (205*F) (which we later find was due to an air pocket
in the radiator - then I was glad to be back 195*F.


The gage was tested and was ok.


Then at the end I had a 2nd gage installed on the engine and
it showed a 20*F cooler temperature…


So looking back I think it was the “wire” between the
sensor and the gage that was getting old and showing a false
reading.


Based on my experience and the fact you also have a 20*F
difference between the gage and infrared gun, I suspect you
have the same issue as I had.





Sincerely, Alexandre


SM2K #289 NIKIMAT


Lost on September 5 during Hurricane Irma at


IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA





--------------------------------------------


On Sat, 9/16/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:





Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature
reading


To: amelyachtowners@...


Date: Saturday, September 16, 2017, 8:18 AM








 





























Mark, I


for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just
another


complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought
up


one other issue that I am dealing with , engine
temperature


. I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few
years


ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic


installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to


bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me ,


seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo


sender without regulating the signal. So I have never
had


faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge
reads


225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have
had


readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason
I


have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat


exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc.
I


am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not ,
not


sure what one would expect the temp to be at the
thermostat


, two different guns give me different readings and the


gauge can't be trusted.


Its always something,





Pat 





SM#123




















-----Original


Message-----





From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...


[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>





To: amelyachtowners


<amelyachtowners@...>





Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm





Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs


























 










































































Pat,











 











Salt water is


the enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as
I


am not familiar


with the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may
be


getting a fine mist or


steam into the turbo. I am really not sure.











 











On the Yanmar


it is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon


coated sides can aid to


a back up of water into the turbo as the walls can
retain


water once the engine


is stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust


manifolds clean is also


a good thing.











 











Yanmar makes a


cleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as
well.


It involves two


people, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another
to


spray cleaner into


the tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at
a


high rate. This


removes any carbon buildup from the turbo.











 











Diesels do need


to be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long
hours


at low RPM. They really


don’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about
2-3


minutes every hour, or


so. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2
minutes.


This also helps to


see if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the
heat


exchanger is


clogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous


about this every time I


do it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts
flying


everywhere in the


engine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.











 











IMHO, turbo


chargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add
more


horses with less


weight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I


think this is a fine


example of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine
for


a marine environment


without thinking it through. And, the marine market is
not


large enough for a


committed marine diesel engine company. How nice would it
be


to have a simple diesel


engine with a  compression release lever and a back up


crank start. Kinda like


the tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to
make


things more complicated


for sailors. But then again, what do I know.











 




















 











With best


regards,











 











Mark











 











Skipper











Sailing Vessel


- Cream Puff











www.creampuff.us




















 





























From: amelyachtowners@...


[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]











Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM








To: amelyachtowners@...








Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs





























 











 






































Mark


,  What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the


carbon ?I just


rebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I


think I would prefer a


naturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate
 free


, but put


it back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm
tops.


It must be the


turbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it.
That


will now be about


$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about
the


same as fuel. This


is probably my fault for not running the engine hard
enough


. From now on , I


am going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy
























Thanks all for the


input,





























Pat SM#123


Patrick McAneny
 

Alexandre , I am humbled that amid all the chaos around you , you would take  your time to respond . Diane and I have been following you constantly on facebook well before Irma struck. We could not be sadder for your lose , and for the extremely difficult times you are going through . Take heart in the knowledge that hundreds of people around the world have you in their thoughts and prayers. We have another friend that lives and works in the BVIs , and has for decades , Todd Duff . Todd also lost his Amel in Nanny Cay , if he reads this , we would like him to know as well , that we are thinking of him and his family and wish them a timely recovery.
Best of Luck Alex,
Pat & Diane,
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Sep 17, 2017 9:30 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

 
Good afternoon Pat,

I am slowly reading, in disorder, the Amel post and wanted to share my experience on the engine temperature.
The gage was showing my engine was running 195*F, I thought it was 10*F higher than normal.
So 3 years ago in Florida, a diesel company pushed me in spending over $8,000 in engine work over a 5 months period (heat exchanger cooling, re-calibrate injector, new turbo, thermostat, and so on) then my engine was running even warmer (205*F) (which we later find was due to an air pocket in the radiator - then I was glad to be back 195*F.
The gage was tested and was ok.
Then at the end I had a 2nd gage installed on the engine and it showed a 20*F cooler temperature…
So looking back I think it was the “wire” between the sensor and the gage that was getting old and showing a false reading.
Based on my experience and the fact you also have a 20*F difference between the gage and infrared gun, I suspect you have the same issue as I had.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Lost on September 5 during Hurricane Irma at
IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 9/16/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2017, 8:18 AM


 









Mark, I
for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another
complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up
one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature
. I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years
ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic
installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to
bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me ,
seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo
sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had
faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads
225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had
readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I
have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat
exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I
am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not
sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat
, two different guns give me different readings and the
gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,

Pat 

SM#123






-----Original
Message-----

From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@...>

Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs








 
























Pat,



 



Salt water is
the enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as I
am not familiar
with the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may be
getting a fine mist or
steam into the turbo. I am really not sure.



 



On the Yanmar
it is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon
coated sides can aid to
a back up of water into the turbo as the walls can retain
water once the engine
is stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust
manifolds clean is also
a good thing.



 



Yanmar makes a
cleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as well.
It involves two
people, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another to
spray cleaner into
the tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at a
high rate. This
removes any carbon buildup from the turbo.



 



Diesels do need
to be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long hours
at low RPM. They really
don’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about 2-3
minutes every hour, or
so. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2 minutes.
This also helps to
see if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the heat
exchanger is
clogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous
about this every time I
do it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts flying
everywhere in the
engine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.



 



IMHO, turbo
chargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add more
horses with less
weight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I
think this is a fine
example of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine for
a marine environment
without thinking it through. And, the marine market is not
large enough for a
committed marine diesel engine company. How nice would it be
to have a simple diesel
engine with a  compression release lever and a back up
crank start. Kinda like
the tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to make
things more complicated
for sailors. But then again, what do I know.



 






 



With best
regards,



 



Mark



 



Skipper



Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff



www.creampuff.us






 









From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]



Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM


To: amelyachtowners@...


Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs









 



 












Mark
,  What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the
carbon ?I just
rebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I
think I would prefer a
naturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate  free
, but put
it back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm tops.
It must be the
turbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it. That
will now be about
$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about the
same as fuel. This
is probably my fault for not running the engine hard enough
. From now on , I
am going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy ! 







Thanks all for the
input,









Pat SM#123








Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Pat,

I am slowly reading, in disorder, the Amel post and wanted to share my experience on the engine temperature.
The gage was showing my engine was running 195*F, I thought it was 10*F higher than normal.
So 3 years ago in Florida, a diesel company pushed me in spending over $8,000 in engine work over a 5 months period (heat exchanger cooling, re-calibrate injector, new turbo, thermostat, and so on) then my engine was running even warmer (205*F) (which we later find was due to an air pocket in the radiator - then I was glad to be back 195*F.
The gage was tested and was ok.
Then at the end I had a 2nd gage installed on the engine and it showed a 20*F cooler temperature…
So looking back I think it was the “wire” between the sensor and the gage that was getting old and showing a false reading.
Based on my experience and the fact you also have a 20*F difference between the gage and infrared gun, I suspect you have the same issue as I had.


Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Lost on September 5 during Hurricane Irma at
IGY Simpson Bay Marina, St Maarten, NA



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 9/16/17, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, September 16, 2017, 8:18 AM


 









Mark, I
for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another
complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up
one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature
. I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years
ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic
installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to
bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me ,
seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo
sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had
faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads
225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had
readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I
have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat
exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I
am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not
sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat
, two different guns give me different readings and the
gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,

Pat 

SM#123






-----Original
Message-----

From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>

To: amelyachtowners
<amelyachtowners@...>

Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs








 
























Pat,



 



Salt water is
the enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as I
am not familiar
with the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may be
getting a fine mist or
steam into the turbo. I am really not sure.



 



On the Yanmar
it is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon
coated sides can aid to
a back up of water into the turbo as the walls can retain
water once the engine
is stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust
manifolds clean is also
a good thing.



 



Yanmar makes a
cleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as well.
It involves two
people, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another to
spray cleaner into
the tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at a
high rate. This
removes any carbon buildup from the turbo.



 



Diesels do need
to be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long hours
at low RPM. They really
don’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about 2-3
minutes every hour, or
so. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2 minutes.
This also helps to
see if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the heat
exchanger is
clogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous
about this every time I
do it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts flying
everywhere in the
engine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.



 



IMHO, turbo
chargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add more
horses with less
weight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I
think this is a fine
example of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine for
a marine environment
without thinking it through. And, the marine market is not
large enough for a
committed marine diesel engine company. How nice would it be
to have a simple diesel
engine with a  compression release lever and a back up
crank start. Kinda like
the tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to make
things more complicated
for sailors. But then again, what do I know.



 






 



With best
regards,



 



Mark



 



Skipper



Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff



www.creampuff.us






 









From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]



Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM


To: amelyachtowners@...


Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs









 



 












Mark
,  What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the
carbon ?I just
rebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I
think I would prefer a
naturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate  free
, but put
it back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm tops.
It must be the
turbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it. That
will now be about
$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about the
same as fuel. This
is probably my fault for not running the engine hard enough
. From now on , I
am going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy ! 







Thanks all for the
input,









Pat SM#123


Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Thanks for the thermostat specs ,I was going to goggle them today. I am going to replace the thermostat , in case it is not opening all the way for some reason. To test the sender in boiling water , I guess I would need to but a cheap gauge at a parts store. Would degraded wiring or connection lower the gauge reading . We will look for you at the Boat show in Oct.
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 16, 2017 4:16 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs and Temperature reading

 

Pat,

Have you tried taking your suspect temperature sender out of the engine, and sticking it in a pot of boiling water?  If it does not read 212F--exactly--you then have learned for sure that it is not telling you the truth about your engine temperature.

These are themistors, and a bad connection in the wire loop can add enough resistance to the circuit that the temperature reads quite far off in a nonlinear way.  I just traced a problem with a high oil pressure reading to that cause.

My TMD22 runs at 180F at idle and 195-200 at sustained cruising speed of 2400RPM (7 knots).  170-185 is Volvo's spec for first opening of the thermostat , and 197-208 is where is it is wide open.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Solomons Island, Maryland.

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Mark, I for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature . I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me , seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads 225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat , two different guns give me different readings and the gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,
Pat 
SM#123


greatketch@...
 


Pat,

Have you tried taking your suspect temperature sender out of the engine, and sticking it in a pot of boiling water?  If it does not read 212F--exactly--you then have learned for sure that it is not telling you the truth about your engine temperature.

These are themistors, and a bad connection in the wire loop can add enough resistance to the circuit that the temperature reads quite far off in a nonlinear way.  I just traced a problem with a high oil pressure reading to that cause.

My TMD22 runs at 180F at idle and 195-200 at sustained cruising speed of 2400RPM (7 knots).  170-185 is Volvo's spec for first opening of the thermostat , and 197-208 is where is it is wide open.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Solomons Island, Maryland.

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailw32@...> wrote :

Mark, I for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature . I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic installed a 10 ohm resister  I think, in the wiring to bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me , seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads 225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat , two different guns give me different readings and the gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,
Pat 
SM#123


greatketch@...
 

Fortunately, I am not in the market for a new engine (yet!), but it is one of those things I keep an eye on because it can come up suddenly when dealing with an aging powerplant. (7400 hours and counting)

I dislike the idea of a turbo for all the reasons listed by other people here, and some more too.  I find the turbo charged engine to be very unresponsive in close quarters maneuvering.  Power is low until the RPM builds up to engage the turbo which happens in an unpredictable amount of time after I throttle up--and always too late.  In a strong head wind and steep chop the 75HP turbo has trouble getting enough rev's to generate the power it needs to get up the power curve far enough to drive the boat.

BUT....

A Volvo D2-75 turbo engine weighs 582 pounds (264 kg). 
And the Yanmar 4JH4 turbo weighs only 482 pounds. 
Beta Marine sells a naturally aspirated 75 HP engine based on a Kubota block. A nice engine with a lot of good history. It has a nearly identical footprint to the Volvo and is even available with an isolated ground option. Looks like a very nice engine for a SM (And here is the "but", and it is a big one)... it weighs 911 pounds (414 kg)!!!  

I'll put up with the complications of a turbo to avoid carrying an extra 450 pounds in my boat. I'll still whine unattractively about the turbo, but that is a LOT of weight.  Unless somebody knows about a 600 pound naturally aspirated 75HP marine diesel.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Solomons Island, Maryland


Patrick McAneny
 

Mark, I for one agree , I wish I did not have a turbo, just another complexity , that is really not necessary . You brought up one other issue that I am dealing with , engine temperature . I had a new Volvo instrument panel installed a few years ago and the temp gauge ran hot like 230 F. The mechanic installed a 10 ohm resister I think, in the wiring to bring the reading down . Seemed very arbitrary to me , seemed to me a Volvo gauge should correctly read a Volvo sender without regulating the signal. So I have never had faith in the gauge and running hard 2500 rpm the gauge reads 225 F. , using a infrared gun at the thermostat I have had readings of 200 to 205 or higher . This is another reason I have ran slower to keep the temp. down. I clean the heat exchanger yearly ,transmission cooler, new impeller ,etc. I am not sure if I have an overheating problem or not , not sure what one would expect the temp to be at the thermostat , two different guns give me different readings and the gauge can't be trusted.
Its always something,
Pat
SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 5:05 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs







Pat,

Salt water isthe enemy. I am hoping someone else will chime in here as I am not familiarwith the elbow and the exhaust set up on Volvo. You may be getting a fine mist orsteam into the turbo. I am really not sure.

On the Yanmarit is important to keep the elbow clean because carbon coated sides can aid toa back up of water into the turbo as the walls can retain water once the engineis stopped turning into salty steam. Keeping the exhaust manifolds clean is alsoa good thing.

Yanmar makes acleaner for turbos but soapy water can be used just as well. It involves twopeople, one to drive the boat above 2000 rpm and another to spray cleaner intothe tubo (through the air intake) while it is turning at a high rate. Thisremoves any carbon buildup from the turbo.

Diesels do needto be run hard. We are all guilty of running for long hours at low RPM. They reallydon’t like this much. Push the throttle up for about 2-3 minutes every hour, orso. I push mine to about 2700-2800 rpm for about 2 minutes. This also helps tosee if the engine is cooling properly (180-195). If the heat exchanger isclogged, this is when its going overheat. I get nervous about this every time Ido it. I always expect a massive explosion and parts flying everywhere in theengine room. So far, this hasn’t happened.

IMHO, turbochargers have no place on a boat. The theory is to add more horses with lessweight. I would take the weight over a turbo any day. I think this is a fineexample of a manufacturer trying to adapt a land engine for a marine environmentwithout thinking it through. And, the marine market is not large enough for acommitted marine diesel engine company. How nice would it be to have a simple dieselengine with a compression release lever and a back up crank start. Kinda likethe tractors of the old days. It’s a conspiracy to make things more complicatedfor sailors. But then again, what do I know.



With bestregards,

Mark

Skipper
Sailing Vessel- Cream Puff
www.creampuff.us



From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 3:57 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs





Mark, What would corrode the bearings , lack of oil or the carbon ?I justrebuilt the turbo 500 hrs. ago for about a thousand . I think I would prefer anaturally aspirated engine. I just got the wastegate free , but putit back together went for a spin , still at 2000 rpm tops. It must be theturbine , so I will take off and replace/rebuild it. That will now be about$2000 in the last 500 hrs. or about $4 per hour. , about the same as fuel. Thisis probably my fault for not running the engine hard enough . From now on , Iam going to run the snot out of it, no more Mr. Nice Guy !

Thanks all for the input,

Pat SM#123



-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]<amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 2:03 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs





Pat,



I am going to be the bearer ofbad news here. The blades should turn with the lightest touch. The fact yoursdon’t means the bearings are corroded. I do not know of a magic spray that canfix this. The turbo is going to have to be rebuilt or replaced. Ouch. Sorry.



But, on the bright side, youhave solved your problem.



Check a local shop for arebuild quote. If you are good with tools, you can buy rebuild kits on ebay.Youtube has videos of how to rebuild a turbo. If it were me, I’d take it to ashop for a quote.






With best regards,



Mark



Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff

www.creampuff.us





From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 1:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs








Mark, I just got inside the turbo, the wastegate will not open , I just put PB blaster on the outside to see ifit loosens up , the turbine turns , but not easily , not as easy as I wouldexpect. I was wondering if there was any product that would be safe to spray onthe turbine to free it up.


Thanks,


Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 12:46 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs







Pat,





You have too little powerbecause you have the incorrect mixture of air and fuel in the cylinder.





Once you get the turbo off, youshould be able to look into the turbo and see the blades. The blades shouldturn with a very slight touch. If this is the case, chances are the turbo canbe salvaged. If the blades are corroded and stuck, I would expect to see hugeamounts of black smoke as you rev up the engine with a load. I am hoping yourissue is just not this serious and the turbo can be repaired by a local shop.





One more thought, perhaps youcan put some penetrating lubricant on the lever of the waste gate. Try to getit lose. Work it open and closed until it is smooth. I wonder if it could bethis easy J.









With best regards,





Mark





Skipper


Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff


www.creampuff.us







From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 12:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs











Mark , Thank you you have been abig help. Disconnected , the lever to the wastegate does not move , so I nowknow I have a problem in the turbo. I am guessing it is stuck closed. If closedI would think I would have too much power , not to little , unless the turboitself is not spinning , stuck.



Thanks,



Pat



-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 11:36 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs









Hi Pat,







I am not sure. You have reachthe limit of my knowledge about this. The fact the lever is seized is a problem.The symptoms of this not working correctly would be as you have described.However, I am unfamiliar with the turbo you have. I would suggest at this pointtaking the turbo off and having a rebuild shop look at it. There are only acouple of manufactures of turbo in the world so they will know it when they seeit.







Once the lever is disconnectedthe gate or lever on the housing of the turbo should easily open and close thewaste gate inside the turbo. The resistance comes from the tension in the actuator(round thing).







With the rod disconnected, doesthe rod move in and out of the actuator? Is it the lever on the turbo housingthat is stuck? You might be able to replace just the actuator. If the corrosionis in the turbo, this is more costly.







You will want to have the wastegate set to Volvo specs. The wrong adjustment here can cause serious damage tothe engine. Again, sorry I am not that familiar with the Volvo.












With best regards,







Mark







Skipper



Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff



www.creampuff.us









From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 10:40 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] RPMs














I disconnected the arm/rod fromthe wastegate lever, I was able to push to rod towards theactuator slightly . I put vise grips on the wastegate lever and wasnot able with great effort , to move it more than 1/32 of an inch . Should Inot be able to move the lever and open and close the gate by hand? The lever ispointing straight forward , would that be open or closed? What would preventthe gate from moving ? Hate to ask all these questions, but I don't know the answers .




Thanks,




Pat SM123




-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 15, 2017 9:11 am
Subject: RE: [Amel YachtOwners] RPMs











Pat,









From what you describe, I amassuming you have an external waste gate. Here is a youtube video that should giveyou an idea of how it should move: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2i_bQBEP78









You should be able to move therod a little by hand to see if it is seized.









One other thought, is the hoseto the waste gate in good condition?















With best regards,









Mark









Skipper




Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff




www.creampuff.us











From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:20 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [AmelYacht Owners] RPMs

















Mark, So you are saying , that Ishould easily be able to move the lever arm and the connected rod on the turbo? I could not move it at all . With the engine running and as I push thethrottle up , what should I expect to see , would there be a noticeablemovement ? This could be it , maybe the gate is stuck open or closed , whichwould have to impact rpms.I will disconnect the arm and see if I can move the lever on the turbo .If I can , then maybe the problem is with the circular part that the arm isconnected to. I don,tunderstand what this part does. Does it expand and contract , thus moving thearm/lever ? I appreciate you taking your time to help me sort this out. I havea friend that had a beautiful 45' Cabo Rico , he has said manytimes , he wished they had a group such as we do , to help sort problems out .The Amel group is perhapsone of the best reasons for purchasing an Amel.





Thanks Again,





Pat





SMShenanigans





-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thu, Sep 14, 201710:13 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel YachtOwners] RPMs













Pat,











Forgot to say, yes you shouldbe able to move it easily.


















With best regards,











Mark











Skipper





Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff





www.creampuff.us













From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 3:00 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [AmelYacht Owners] RPMs




















Mark, The prop is clean , thelinkage is ok , the fuel filters are new and I see no signs of leakage on anyfuel line. I just took off the exhaust elbow and it was clean , even shiny , except was a few small clumps of mush seemingly oil soaked , maybe ateaspoon total. I took off the turbo shield and the short rod that controls thewaste gate is rusty as well as the circular piece where it enters. I could notmove the rod , should I be able to ? Could my problem be a stuck wast gate ?






Thanks,






Pat SM#123






-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 11, 2017 7:00 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel YachtOwners] RPMs















Pat, the fact you can get to3000rpm in neutral doesn’ttell us much. It is the load that is causing the problem. The engine is notgenerating enough energy to offset the applied load. Fuel is energy. Thisusually means fuel issues. The more load, the more fuel is needed to create thehorsepower.













Where you able to get to 3000rpm right before you changed the filters? Or, was this something you did to tryto fix the issue?













Here are some additionalthoughts on fuel:













Do you have a lift pump forfuel? (not sure on the Volvo and your Amel). If so check the diaphragm,






Air in fuel lines (connectionsloose). The engine will pull air rather than fuel if it can.






O-rings sitting correctly onfuel filter give a good seal?






If you changed the fuel filteris the new one sitting correctly and sealed?













A couple of other thoughts:













Check for blockage in exhausthose (not enough air to burn fuel)






I know you said you cleaned theprop but is it possible something is caught in it (piece of rope or fishingline)













Let’s hope it is something thissimple J



































With best regards,













Mark













Skipper






Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff -SM2K - #275






Currently cruising - Grenada






www.creampuff.us















From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 5:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [AmelYacht Owners] RPMs























Mark, Thanks for getting back . Iused the same and correct filters. I observed that the linkage moved forwardwell beyond the 2200 point , but no further increase in rpms. The engine seems to runsmoothly , if it were an injector would you have a noticeable telltale ? Is thefact that in neutral It gets to 3000 rpm mean anything?







Thanks,







Pat







-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 11, 2017 4:57 pm
Subject: RE: [Amel YachtOwners] RPMs

















Pat,















Here is a great page to giveyou some additional thoughts: https://www.sbmar.com/articles/understanding-low-power-troubleshooting/















White smoke is usually a signof not enough air intake or failing fuel injector(s). However, white smoke isusually pretty noticeable. You say “a little white smoke” so I would not thinkit is an indication.















Also, another common issue mostpeople do not check is the throttle linkage. Can you get RPM if you go down tothe engine an manually move the throttle?















Else, I would start with thefuel system and work from there.







“replaced both fuelfilters” did you replace them with the same type?















Tubofailure will usually pump out black smoke.
















With best regards,















Mark















Skipper







Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff -SM2K - #275







Currently cruising - Grenada







www.creampuff.us

















From: amelyachtowners@...[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 3:50 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [AmelYacht Owners] RPMs


























I have not been able to get above2200 rpms , normally Ihave always gotten to 3000 at full throttle on my Volvo TMD 22A . I justcleaned my fixed prop and replaced both fuel filters , still won't go beyond 2200 rpm. It willget above 3000 rpm in neutral and I notice a little white smoke. Any thoughtson what could cause the limited rpmsin gear . I rebuilt the turbo 3 years ago. Any thoughts would be appreciated.







I just read that the military haslanded in the BVIs and St.Martin to restore order . That has to be a relief to those stuck there . Ourthoughts and good wishes to everyone impacted by Irma.







Thanks,







Pat







SMShenanigans