Topics

[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads


Thomas Peacock
 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 
That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 
We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?
I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 
However, ours have been particularly gruesome. The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 
We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 
It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 
Are we alone? 
Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 
But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240Aletes
Rock Hall, Maryland
Departing for Antigua November 3


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Ian and Margaret,

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?


Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida


eric freedman
 

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome. The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3

 


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Ian and Margaret,

 

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

 

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

 

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?



Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida


greatketch@...
 

Tom,

We have the manual Jabsco heads, and NEVER have the kind of problem you describe.  Something is going wrong with the installation of your joker valves, but I can not think what it might be.  Somehow "stuff" is leaking back through (or possibly around) them.  My first guess is that something is causing them to distort in shape, or to not seal around the edges.

If things improve for a short time right after you change the valves, I'll guess something is damaging them.  Do you use any cleaning products in the toilet?  Some of them can adversely impact the rubber compound of the joker valves.

We use the stock Jabsco joker valves, so nothing special there.  In two years we have changed one of them, and the other head has yet to need any parts, and they get used every day.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <peacock8491@...> wrote :

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 
That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 
We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?
I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 
However, ours have been particularly gruesome. The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 
We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 
It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 
Are we alone? 
Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 
But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

Tom Peacock
SM 240Aletes
Rock Hall, Maryland
Departing for Antigua November 3


greatketch@...
 

Eric,

I am not a fan of bleach used as you describe.  In the long run it is very hard on the copper plumbing in the seachest manifold and holding tanks.

The sulfur smell comes from living things dying and decaying in the stagnant, anaerobic seawater.  

If you are going to leave the boat, you can close the main seachest seacock (you do anyway, right?), open the top of the seachest, put a hose in there and flush the toilets until the lines are full of fresh water.  

No more smell on first use.

Bill Kinney
SM160,  Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

  


eric freedman
 

Bill,

I always do that of I leave the boat for a while, However  if I leave the boat in warm climates for a few days I get the growth back. I have been doing this for 15 years now so let’s see what happens.

 

Thanks

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 10:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Eric,

 

I am not a fan of bleach used as you describe.  In the long run it is very hard on the copper plumbing in the seachest manifold and holding tanks.

 

The sulfur smell comes from living things dying and decaying in the stagnant, anaerobic seawater.  

 

If you are going to leave the boat, you can close the main seachest seacock (you do anyway, right?), open the top of the seachest, put a hose in there and flush the toilets until the lines are full of fresh water.  

 

No more smell on first use.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160,  Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

  


eric freedman
 

I have noticed in the chandleries that many of the joker valves are not round due to incorrect packing or shipping.

Look carefully at them when you buy them. They must be perfectly round.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 9:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Tom,

 

We have the manual Jabsco heads, and NEVER have the kind of problem you describe.  Something is going wrong with the installation of your joker valves, but I can not think what it might be.  Somehow "stuff" is leaking back through (or possibly around) them.  My first guess is that something is causing them to distort in shape, or to not seal around the edges.

 

If things improve for a short time right after you change the valves, I'll guess something is damaging them.  Do you use any cleaning products in the toilet?  Some of them can adversely impact the rubber compound of the joker valves.

 

We use the stock Jabsco joker valves, so nothing special there.  In two years we have changed one of them, and the other head has yet to need any parts, and they get used every day.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <peacock8491@...> wrote :

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome. The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3


greatketch@...
 

Eric,

That's my best idea, other than flushing a lot!  Biology can be a problem, sometimes.

Bill


amelforme
 

Hi Eric. CLOROX/calcium chloride has an extremely deleterious effect on the ‘mystery metal’ which seems to be more copper than bronze, on the outlets of the holding tanks. When I get a new listing, I check to see if any toilet cleaner products are aboard with calcium chloride as an ingredient. More often than not if these are used, I can then find small pin hole leaks on the pipes exiting the holding tanks to the through hull valves. Often these pipes are in full failure. Replacement is not fun, easy or in any way pleasant and rewarding. It is, quite literally, a crappy job as those of us who have done it can attest.

 

On the initiation schooling I give to all my’ new to them’ Amel owners, I strongly suggest not to even have CLOROX aboard. It is an extreme oxidizer and chews up rubber seals and pump parts, the copper strap in the bilge sump joining the iron ballast to the zincs, and accelerates aging on almost everything it touches.

 

White vinegar is a softer solution. Not as good in some cases, but not as ugly and aggressive either.

 

Have fun with your Amel, Joel

 

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 9:32 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I had a similar problem when I originally received Kimberlite from Amel. It was delivered with electric toilets.

 

The solution I found was to hold down the red flush button for 10 seconds.

This puts just salt water in the hose and whatever came out of the toilet is now in the tank and

just salt water returns to the bowl. You might try pumping the toilet more to get just salt water in the hose.

I also originally had to change the toilet to tank hose every few years due to permeation of odor in the hose. Now with a 10 second flush I have not had to change the hose in over 10 years.

 

I have 2 problems with the electric toilet.

When the boats sits for a few days the salt water in the tubing has a sulfur dioxide odor for the first flush—very smelly. Possibly someone else has a better solution, for us I add Clorox to the sea chest with water and operate the toilet until I smell Clorox. I let this sit for 12 hours.  The water comes out black on the first flush and then no more smell for a while. I bought the fresh water flush valve and initially intended to use it for a fresh water flush. However I hate to waste fresh water , so I stayed with salt water.

 

The other problem is the weakness of the base of the toilet. I have had to replace the forward base twice. Probably because we make passages with three other people and it gets more use.

 

Any suggestions to solve these issues?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

I cannot address the electric head issue, as we have manual Jabsco’s. Our boat was right on the cusp of switching from manual to electric. 

That said, after having owned our fair ship for 8 years, I would like to solicit others’ experience. 

We have two standard manual Jabsco’s. Do other SM owners with manual heads also have Jabsco’s?

I ask that, because they have been such a huge problem for us. I know that heads are often at the top of the list for maintaining. 

However, ours have been particularly gruesome The positioning of the holding tanks nearly a meter above the bottom of the head means a constant battle to prevent black water (extreme euphemism) from flowing back into the bowl, at times filling it. In the dark, the ladies can be very rudely surprised. 

We have tried almost everything: changing joker (tricuspid) valves every month, purchasing the newer Jabsco “lock” handle mechanism, and finally putting an extra in-line valve between the head and the holding tank. 

It is quite a bit better, but gravity still sometimes wins. 

Are we alone? 

Appreciate any feedback from this invaluable forum (for non-native English speakers, invaluable doesn’t mean not valuable, but rather extremely valuable). Don’t ask me why, not sure. For example, inhospitable means “not hospitable”, but inflammable means “extremely flammable”. 

But I digress. Thanks again as always. 

 

Tom Peacock

SM 240Aletes

Rock Hall, Maryland

Departing for Antigua November 3

 


On Oct 11, 2017, at 7:52 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Ian and Margaret,

 

Like you, our SM has two factory installed manual heads.  We are happy with them and have no plans to change them.

 

My experience with the Jabsco electric heads is very limited, and pretty much all bad--in some cases really bad! My sample size is small, and they really can't be as bad my impressions...  but I wouldn't go that way.

 

For 15 years I lived on a boat that had a Sealand Vacuflush.  It was fantastic.  Reliable.  If flushed with a tiny, tiny bit of fresh water (really important with Amel's tiny, tiny holding tanks!) 

 

If I wanted to swap out to electric heads that would be the way I would go without a second thought.  Installation in an Amel would take a bit of thinking, but they have lots of configuration options.

 

Bill Kinney

SM160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

---In amelyachtowners@..., <smlocalola@...> wrote :

Our SM has two manual heads, both Jabsco. We are looking at Installing Jabsco Quiet Flush Electric Heads. They seem to fit the SM head floor pan cut out nicely. Any opinions on number of electric heads? Two electric or one+manual? Other things we should consider?




Ian & Margaret

SM153

Loca Lola II 

New River, Fort Lauderdale, Florida


greatketch@...
 

Joel,

Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD



Ryan Meador
 

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




Thomas Peacock
 

Our backflow problem has been much better the last 2 years with some modifications, but still not ideal. 

I bought the locking pump mechanism as an entire new unit. Not much more $ than a rebuild kit. There is a bayonet in the lock that puts downward pressure on the flapper valve. That helped somewhat. 
I then bought an in line valve (also a Jabsco part) that I inserted in the hose about three inches after it exits the head on its way to the tank. That helped immensely for about a year, then the backflow ensued.  I took the in line valve out and cleaned it, some sludge had accumulated. After putting it back, the head seems great again. Maybe there’s a trick in terms of flushing to prevent the sludge from accumulating. 

Bottom line, it’s worth buying the locking pump and in line valve. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. 

One more tip, Defender sells a much more flexible black water hose. Immensely easier to work with. It’s called Raritan Sani. I highly recommend it. 

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240


On Oct 12, 2017, at 2:21 PM, Ryan Meador ryan.d.meador@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




eric freedman
 

Isn’t calcium hypochlorite usually uses as a powder and sodium hypochlorite usually used as a liquid?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 2:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Joel,

 

Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

 

Other than that...  just like you said!

 

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

 

 


greatketch@...
 

Eric,

Exactly.

Calcium hypochlorite is "solid chlorine."  Used in "pool chlorine" and in some powdered "beaching" cleaners. Also used in "drop in the tank" toilet cleaners.  The calcium salt has limited solubility in water.

As a 3-5% solution in water Sodium hypochlorite is "Chlorox."  I have never seen it as a solid, and if my memory serves, it not safely stable in anhydrous form.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

Isn’t calcium hypochlorite usually uses as a powder and sodium hypochlorite usually used as a liquid?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2017 2:11 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electric Heads

 

 

Joel,

 

Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

 

Other than that...  just like you said!

 

Bill Kinney

Sm160, Harmonie

Back Creek, Annapolis, MD

 

 


greatketch@...
 

While we are on the subject of manual heads, a maintenance suggestion.

You have probably been told and read to flush various kinds of vegetable oil to "lubricate" the parts and to keep the rubber bits from "drying out."  Do NOT do this.  It has been repeated so often it is accepted as "true", but that doesn't make it so.

It has no beneficial effect on the rubber parts, and is a rather poor and short lasting lubricant.  Oil can contribute to clogging up the holding tank as it saponifies into sticky gooey fatty acids.  Leave the vegetable oil in the galley where it belongs.

Instead, remove the pump plunger.  This is easily done on the toilets with the locking handle, use push down and unscrew the top of the pump.  Lift out the piston assembly.  Put a very small amount of silicon grease on the o-ring that sits on the rim of the piston, a tiny bit more on the stainless steel shaft, and one more spot on the o-ring on the fitting you unscrewed. Using more than a thin layer will work no better and last no longer. Put it all back together and be amazed at how smoothly it works!  

Repeat anytime the pump starts to feel stiff. On our boat, in daily use, we find this is about a month or so. Your o-rings will last a lot longer when they are properly lubricated.

For silicone grease, I use Dow Corning Molykote 111 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WDU1J8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002WDU1J8&linkCode=as2&tag=fetchinketch-20&linkId=90783fa8fbc07fc736541dcb41629593

A 5 oz tube for less than $20 will last two forevers on a boat, it is good for every rubber o-ring and seal you have.  It is the same stuff you can find at plumbing suppliers and dive shops repackaged into smaller containers.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD


Craig Briggs
 


Hi Ryan,
I switched to the pumps with the locking handle. It seemed to work better initially, but after one season it's just as bad as the original. Need to constantly replace joker & rubber locking piece. IMHO it's just a crappy product.
Craig SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <ryan.d.meador@...> wrote :

I have Jabsco manual heads on my boat, and both of them exhibit the black water backflow problem Tom mentioned.  I was advised by the previous owner to flush extra seawater through so when (not if) they backflow, it will be "clean" water.  This works to a point.  If the holding tank is sufficiently full, it will backflow seemingly directly from the tank.  I suspect this is when the level of waste in the tank rises above the level of the discharge hose from the head, allowing it to siphon backwards until the level drops again.  I do not have a solution except to get pumped out more often.  I was considering swapping the heads for the version with the locking handle, does that really not work?  It seems like it should.  I'd love a better solution!

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration

On Thu, Oct 12, 2017 at 2:11 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Joel,


Your chemical engineer on call suggests that you might be looking for calcium hypochlorite rather than calcium chloride.

Other than that...  just like you said!

Bill Kinney
Sm160, Harmonie
Back Creek, Annapolis, MD




Craig Briggs
 

Of course, the underlying problem is that we are all violating the basic tenants of Plumbing 101, namely, hot's on the left, cold's on the right and shit don't run uphill.
Cheers,
Craig


carcodespam@icloud.com <no_reply@...>
 

Change for a Lavac Vaccum and you have never to think about it.

Gerhard


Ryan Meador
 

I think I'm going to try adding the locking Jabsco head (and maybe valve) before I resort to a big change like adding a Lavac.  If they work for a year, I'm willing to do some maintenance once a year.  Besides, that's keeping with the "don't change anything for a year" rule, right? :D

Tom, do you know the part numbers of the things you installed?

Thanks,
Ryan
SM 233 Iteration
Boston, MA, USA

On Fri, Oct 13, 2017 at 10:11 AM, carcodespam@... <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Change for a Lavac Vaccum and you have never to think about it.

Gerhard



karkauai
 

I have the electric Jabsco's.  The holding tanks are small, but to avoid that black water leaking back into the bowl, every time we flush, we follow it with a 10 second fill and flush.  This clears the hose of particulate matter (another euphemism, Tom).  That's what causes the joker valve to leak.  I have to replace the joker valves about once a year.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


karkauai
 

That reminds me of an online purchase of joker valves a few years ago.  They were all bad...I could see a significant gap between the valve leaves.  I sent a pic to the seller who sent me a new batch free of charge.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243