Topics

ball valve on outlet of holding tank replacement


Peter de Groot
 

Greetings all,

 Last weekend we needed to close the holding tanks for an overnight anchorage close to shore, and the forward tank valve would not budge.  After multiple days of penetrating fluid treatment, I broke the stem off. The valves had been left open for over 9 months.  The aft holding tank valve moved freely.


I was about to attempt to remove the broken valve, but realized this could get ugly very quickly.  So I'm asking the group if anyone has had to do this delightful job, and if so are there any tips?

Also, I would love to have a replacement valve in hand before removing the broken one.  Has anyone sourced these?

Does anyone have a complete specification? thread type? inch or metric or BSP tapered?

What is the connection to the hull?  fiberglass to a male threaded nipple? then nipple to valve? It seems that there might be a risk of damaging the hull connection so I would like to understand the construction technique Amel used.


It seems the valve is at or just above the waterline...so I'm being a little more cautious than I usually am.


I'm also weighing the possible advantage of taking out the toilet and cubby hole paneling in order to get better access to the valve.  This also doesn't seem very straight forward.


Thanks in advance for any guidance.


Peter de Groot

La Querida SM 207

Moss Landing, California



Mark Isaac
 

Hello Peter,

I just did this job a couple of months ago with the boat in the water.  It was not as difficult or unpleasant as I had expected.  The valve you need can be purchased on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TUNX1IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I took the toilet out (three or four bolts on the base and two hoses to remove) for better access only because a large wrench is required to break the valve free.  The gelcoat must be chipped from the base of the valve prior to removal not only so your wrench will fit, but also so the valve will turn more easily.  There is a male pipe fitting glassed into the hull onto which the female side of the valve threads.  A plastic piece with a hose barb threads into the other side of the valve (I reused mine).  Don't forget the pipe dope or teflon tape as well as the bonding wire.

Mark Isaac
Lulu, SM#391
South Freeport, Maine
 


amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Peter: 

See this link to the photos section of this forum for details and specifications on this replacement:


If the link doesn't work then go to the photos section and search for holding tank, or valve etc.  There is file folder on this issue.  I do wish folks would post all related photos in folders with appropriate searchable titles rather than by boat name etc.  

I would recommend "marine brass"  or "naval brass" (silver colored valves like Amel originally installed), rather than regular brass valve.  See this link for why this is more resistant to dezincification etc.  http://www.nationalbronze.com/News/what-is-naval-brass/
 The fittings, as noted in the photo file, are BPSS  (British straight pipe thread) so you must use a sealant that will harden somewhat or the new valve will rotate when you actuate the handle.

Good luck, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335   
Just completing hurricane repairs, sitting next to a sister ship,  Amel # 331 "Cloud Street" at Island Marine Inc, at Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico



Craig Briggs
 

Peter, 
Mark recommends a Bronze valve (by Groco, although many other brands are out there)  - these are NOT brass and are excellent! 
Gary recommends "Naval Brass" or "Marine Brass".  These also are not (regular) brass and are excellent!
Both are standard for marine use and they contain tin to reduce corrosion. 

The same valves are more readily available in brass - absolutely wrong. The memory jogger for marine use is, "Brass, my ass!"

Cheers, Craig SN68

---In amelyachtowners@..., <isaac_02906@...> wrote :

Hello Peter,

I just did this job a couple of months ago with the boat in the water.  It was not as difficult or unpleasant as I had expected.  The valve you need can be purchased on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TUNX1IQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I took the toilet out (three or four bolts on the base and two hoses to remove) for better access only because a large wrench is required to break the valve free.  The gelcoat must be chipped from the base of the valve prior to removal not only so your wrench will fit, but also so the valve will turn more easily.  There is a male pipe fitting glassed into the hull onto which the female side of the valve threads.  A plastic piece with a hose barb threads into the other side of the valve (I reused mine).  Don't forget the pipe dope or teflon tape as well as the bonding wire.

Mark Isaac
Lulu, SM#391
South Freeport, Maine


---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Peter: 

See this link to the photos section of this forum for details and specifications on this replacement:


If the link doesn't work then go to the photos section and search for holding tank, or valve etc.  There is file folder on this issue.  I do wish folks would post all related photos in folders with appropriate searchable titles rather than by boat name etc.  

I would recommend "marine brass"  or "naval brass" (silver colored valves like Amel originally installed), rather than regular brass valve.  See this link for why this is more resistant to dezincification etc.  http://www.nationalbronze.com/News/what-is-naval-brass/
 The fittings, as noted in the photo file, are BPSS  (British straight pipe thread) so you must use a sealant that will harden somewhat or the new valve will rotate when you actuate the handle.

Good luck, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 #335   
Just completing hurricane repairs, sitting next to a sister ship,  Amel # 331 "Cloud Street" at Island Marine Inc, at Puerto Del Rey, Puerto Rico



Peter de Groot
 

Hi Mark, Craig and Gary,


Peter de Groot
 

Hi Mark Craig and Gary,
I've ordered the valve, it should be here next week.  My only remaining fear is that the valve is stuck, frozen onto the embedded nipple in the hull. I'll start with penetrating fluid this weekend. If the torque get's high and it doesn't budge, I'll be back on the forum.  Otherwise thanks! You all have provided a big boost of confidence, and the precise knowledge of what to expect.  

BTW.  I do struggle with the search function in Yahoo, both for photos and for topics.