D3-110I-C Wandering RPM


Dean Gillies
 

Hi Gang,
I’ve been wondering for most of this summer about the wandering rpm in my D3-110-C motor. I’ve noticed that occasionally the rpm will wander around by 20-40rpm over a period of a second or so. It is obvious to the ear, as well as being shown in the instrument readout, and seems to be particularly prevalent when mooching around in the 1000-1500 rpm range. Haven’t noticed it so much at higher rpm.

I also don’t recall hearing it last year, but we were pretty overloaded with new stuff last year, it’s possible I just didn’t notice it.

Since I’ve now installed a new gearbox, I’ve kind of eliminated any issues on that front (ie pressure drops/shaft brake application)

This year I changed from the original fixed prop to an Autoprop, which is also a new piece of kit to me. Could this be related to the autoprop blades doing something erratic and momentarily loading up the motor?

Do others observe this behaviour? I guess with the trials and tribulations that Porter has gone through this year with his D3-110 we are all paying a bit more attention to this troublesome power plant.

Many thanks
Dean
SY Stella
Amel 54#154


Ralph Heilig
 

Hallo Dean,

I know this Problem. My Engine (D3-110 , 1600 Hours, 2008) has the same "Problem" between 1.000 and 1.200 rpm. It has it since many years and so far no Problem. As I noticed It's exactly when it wants to open the Turbo. So I think It's at low rpm and cold engine, when the Turbo opens and closes.

My experience after after 1600 hours D3:

1) I had to Change the raw water pump ( after 1.500 hours) - leaking and sea water running over the Alternator( which is stupidly mounted under the raw water pump) - so also a new Alternator 
2) I had a faulty oil pressure Sensor - Error was" low oil pressure" - tested and it was only a faulty oil sensor ( this happend after 80 hours nonstop motoring on flat see - 4 days nonstop - Maybe the sensor stuck due to this) Since my Engine is 2008 - there are differne oil sensors - the Electric Connection of the "actual" D3 oil sensor does no more fit-I found one on eBay that fitted (Part Nr. 863169).

Other Problems not regarding the Engine:

3) 3 (!) Mastervolt Mastercharger  - 2 x 40AMP, 1 x 100 AMP  - every two year one dies....
4) Replacement of the Freshwater Pump (after 8 year) due to pressure leaking - Discussed with AMEL- they said the pump is no more avaliable and I should go for a Jabsco (V-Flow). Now working since one year without problem-  mounting was easy.
5) Cooling Unit of the Refrigerator (after 9 years) - expensive repair 2.200 Euro..
6) Bilge Pump no more pumping - also after 9 years - Easy repair with the Marina ZZ Repair Kit (Setback Flap)
7) Climma Display LED - I had to replace 2 LED Display Chips ( 5€ one ) - The whole Display would cost About 200 - 300 Euro - but my Display just lost one or two Segments on the 7-segment Display...
8) The Hydaulic Gangway never worked perfect. somtimes I have to press x times the remote an shake the Gangway manually to get it working- Problem since day 1....
9) Mainfurler Gearbox - oil leaking - yet not fixed…


Greetings from Sardegna,
Ralph
SY Santa Isabella
AMEL 54 #144




 


Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

HI Dean,

I believe the definitive experts on the Volvo D3-110-I are Porter McRoberts, who has had significant issues with this engine, and Bill Rouse of the Amel School.  Sorry Bill, I will likely be associating you with your old name for a long time.  Bill worked with Porter to help overcome his issues.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


 

Dean, Most likely the turbo boost sensor which has been fouled by oil in the turbo, but being a D3, it could be any one of a dozen issues.

Mark, no apologies needed. Amel benefited by that association for a few years.😀

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Sun, Feb 24, 2019 at 11:47 AM Mark Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
HI Dean,

I believe the definitive experts on the Volvo D3-110-I are Porter McRoberts, who has had significant issues with this engine, and Bill Rouse of the Amel School.  Sorry Bill, I will likely be associating you with your old name for a long time.  Bill worked with Porter to help overcome his issues.

Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ralph,

I have addressed this before but in a different context so I will do it again. Too late for you but it may save others. On a previous boat I had a heat exchanger salt water pipe rupture and dump gallons of salt water over the alternator. It was late and I was near my mooring so on the basis that fresh water had to be better than salt I, in situ, poured multiple jugs of fresh water over the alternator. While still wet I then emptied a can of CRC 556 into the alternator and went home. 5 years later it was still functioning perfectly and was still doing so when I sold the boat. I now use a marine variant of the same product and regularly spray it into and around my electric motors, alternators, starter motors and electrical connections. Stops corrosion and maintains connections and protects the electric motors from salt air. 

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

New Zealand


On 25 February 2019 at 03:02 "ralph.heilig" <ralph.heilig@...> wrote:

Hallo Dean,

I know this Problem. My Engine (D3-110 , 1600 Hours, 2008) has the same "Problem" between 1.000 and 1.200 rpm. It has it since many years and so far no Problem. As I noticed It's exactly when it wants to open the Turbo. So I think It's at low rpm and cold engine, when the Turbo opens and closes.

My experience after after 1600 hours D3:

1) I had to Change the raw water pump ( after 1.500 hours) - leaking and sea water running over the Alternator( which is stupidly mounted under the raw water pump) - so also a new Alternator 
2) I had a faulty oil pressure Sensor - Error was" low oil pressure" - tested and it was only a faulty oil sensor ( this happend after 80 hours nonstop motoring on flat see - 4 days nonstop - Maybe the sensor stuck due to this) Since my Engine is 2008 - there are differne oil sensors - the Electric Connection of the "actual" D3 oil sensor does no more fit-I found one on eBay that fitted (Part Nr. 863169).

Other Problems not regarding the Engine:

3) 3 (!) Mastervolt Mastercharger  - 2 x 40AMP, 1 x 100 AMP  - every two year one dies....
4) Replacement of the Freshwater Pump (after 8 year) due to pressure leaking - Discussed with AMEL- they said the pump is no more avaliable and I should go for a Jabsco (V-Flow). Now working since one year without problem-  mounting was easy.
5) Cooling Unit of the Refrigerator (after 9 years) - expensive repair 2.200 Euro..
6) Bilge Pump no more pumping - also after 9 years - Easy repair with the Marina ZZ Repair Kit (Setback Flap)
7) Climma Display LED - I had to replace 2 LED Display Chips ( 5€ one ) - The whole Display would cost About 200 - 300 Euro - but my Display just lost one or two Segments on the 7-segment Display...
8) The Hydaulic Gangway never worked perfect. somtimes I have to press x times the remote an shake the Gangway manually to get it working- Problem since day 1....
9) Mainfurler Gearbox - oil leaking - yet not fixed…


Greetings from Sardegna,
Ralph
SY Santa Isabella
AMEL 54 #144