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[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?


karkauai
 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Kent,

I have always kept my companionway varnished. Add to that furniture polish and it goes up and down really easily, have to be careful not to let it drop. My weather shield strip is original.

Regards

Danny

SM 299 Ocean Pearl

On 21 October 2018 at 09:37 "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.


Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] < amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale

 

 


 


 


Craig Briggs
 

And here's what I found a few years ago, it also works great.

Remove the weatherstripping and don't replace it.

You can keep the plywood or switch to plexiglass to amazingly brighten things below. No weatherstripping means no scratched or worn door panel.

Cheers, Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


Alan Grayson
 

Thanks Mike, I'll take a piece. I have sent you an email off forum as well.

Kent, i couldn't find that part number on their website so ill just go with mikes item thanks tho.
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406


 

Craig, no weather strip means that all water running down the companionway door will run inside the boat and inside that bulkhead. I would really advise against that unless moisture, mold and mildew is acceptable.

The most common reason for black marks on the Companionway Door is that the wood gets damaged by UV and causes the rubber weather strip to stick as the door is lowered. In my opinion, the best treatment for the teak veneer door is to light hand-sand it and treat it with teak oil (at least every 6 months in the tropics). Pay attention to the rubber weather strip and do not allow it to fold under itself when lowering the door. If you have varnished the door (don't recommend), or teak-oiled it, and it is in good condition, AND, the rubber is still sticking to the door and folding under: Use a light coat of silicone spray on the door (Not WD40). You should also use the silicone spray on the door and top tracks and slides. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

Amel School  http://www.amelschool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970



On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 7:45 AM sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

And here's what I found a few years ago, it also works great.


Remove the weatherstripping and don't replace it.

You can keep the plywood or switch to plexiglass to amazingly brighten things below. No weatherstripping means no scratched or worn door panel.

Cheers, Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


Craig Briggs
 

Not really, Bill.  
1 - the gap (at least on my boat) is barely 2mm so only a minuscule amount of water ever gets in. 
2 - on my boat there's hardly ever water on the door, The most is when I wash the cockpit. 
3 - Amel plumbed the catchment below the door to readily drain into the bilge sump - no standing water for mold and mildew. Plus the catchment is wide open for airing out, especially at night when the hatch is up. 
4 - I used to get much more moldy "yuck" in the catchment with the weather strip - now I simply flush it out now and then and it's fresh as a daisy.

So, IMHO, there's no downside to not having the weatherstripping. The up side is that the door material, be it plywood or plexiglass stays perfect with no persnickety care with silicone or worrying about bent weatherstrip, etc.

There's more than one way to skin a cat,
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

Craig, no weather strip means that all water running down the companionway door will run inside the boat and inside that bulkhead. I would really advise against that unless moisture, mold and mildew is acceptable.

The most common reason for black marks on the Companionway Door is that the wood gets damaged by UV and causes the rubber weather strip to stick as the door is lowered. In my opinion, the best treatment for the teak veneer door is to light hand-sand it and treat it with teak oil (at least every 6 months in the tropics). Pay attention to the rubber weather strip and do not allow it to fold under itself when lowering the door. If you have varnished the door (don't recommend), or teak-oiled it, and it is in good condition, AND, the rubber is still sticking to the door and folding under: Use a light coat of silicone spray on the door (Not WD40). You should also use the silicone spray on the door and top tracks and slides. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse

On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 7:45 AM sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

And here's what I found a few years ago, it also works great.


Remove the weatherstripping and don't replace it.

You can keep the plywood or switch to plexiglass to amazingly brighten things below. No weatherstripping means no scratched or worn door panel.

Cheers, Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


eric freedman
 


greatketch@...
 


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Hi Eric,
I get your point, but I'm really sure the catchment drain will more than compensate for any normal ingress from rain or deck washing or a rare cockpit pooping. Now, understand that I don't choose to sail semi-submerged with a Jordan Drogue like you do! (Not that I'm not totally awed by your accomplishments)
You're totally correct that to be totally bullet proof in life threatening conditions one might choose the weatherstripping and the maintenance aggravation and dark belowdecks that go with it, notwithstanding the miniscule risk of a minor inconvenience of having to mop up some water after a hurricane whilst underway. I think it's not too inaccurate to say most Amels have never sailed in furious conditions where they've gotten their cockpits swamped, as, I guess from your posting, that you have. 
Cheers,
Craig SN68.
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

If your cockpit gets full of water you will get water below and will cause the catchment to overflow.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite


On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 01:21 PM, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Not really, Bill.  

1 - the gap (at least on my boat) is barely 2mm so only a minuscule amount of water ever gets in. 
2 - on my boat there's hardly ever water on the door, The most is when I wash the cockpit. 
3 - Amel plumbed the catchment below the door to readily drain into the bilge sump - no standing water for mold and mildew. Plus the catchment is wide open for airing out, especially at night when the hatch is up. 
4 - I used to get much more moldy "yuck" in the catchment with the weather strip - now I simply flush it out now and then and it's fresh as a daisy.

So, IMHO, there's no downside to not having the weatherstripping. The up side is that the door material, be it plywood or plexiglass stays perfect with no persnickety care with silicone or worrying about bent weatherstrip, etc.

There's more than one way to skin a cat,
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <brouse@...> wrote :

Craig, no weather strip means that all water running down the companionway door will run inside the boat and inside that bulkhead. I would really advise against that unless moisture, mold and mildew is acceptable.

The most common reason for black marks on the Companionway Door is that the wood gets damaged by UV and causes the rubber weather strip to stick as the door is lowered. In my opinion, the best treatment for the teak veneer door is to light hand-sand it and treat it with teak oil (at least every 6 months in the tropics). Pay attention to the rubber weather strip and do not allow it to fold under itself when lowering the door. If you have varnished the door (don't recommend), or teak-oiled it, and it is in good condition, AND, the rubber is still sticking to the door and folding under: Use a light coat of silicone spray on the door (Not WD40). You should also use the silicone spray on the door and top tracks and slides. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse

On Sun, Oct 21, 2018 at 7:45 AM sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

And here's what I found a few years ago, it also works great.


Remove the weatherstripping and don't replace it.

You can keep the plywood or switch to plexiglass to amazingly brighten things below. No weatherstripping means no scratched or worn door panel.

Cheers, Craig, SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <karkauai@...> wrote :

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


Craig Briggs
 

Well, Biil, actually, a 22mm round hole - call it an inch in diameter - takes in very little rain water unless you make a funnel to it from a tarp, like in the old days when sailors collected rain water for drinking. Now, maybe you could consider the hatch to be the funnel (pretty inefficient) and, yes, you'll get a bit more water. But, really, not a whole lot and since our revered  "Captain Henri" himself, engineered the drain to handle anything that might get through, IMHO the weatherstripping is really not needed.  It only tends to deteriorate the plywood companionway board (as most owners have experienced) or, if you've switched to plexiglass for wonderful brightness below decks with the companionway closed, it scratches that badly.
FWIW,
Cheers, Craig SN68 with a really cheerful and bright below decks with the companionway closed! 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Mike Ondra
 

The belted weather strip from Rockauto was "flocked" over the rubber so it is a felt-like material that touches the sliding hatch. Slides with much less friction than the original rubber against the hatch. No black marks or turning over ofthe rubber.

Mike Ondra
Alete SM#240

On Oct 21, 2018, at 2:39 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Hi James,
Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Danny Simms
 

Hi,
As I have said before My companionway slider is varnished and I use furniture polish on it. The polish I use is Neopol original cream polish and I have had no trouble re varnishing. My rubber strip is original and the hatch looks good and goes up and down easily.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 at 22:59, lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill Kinney,


   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


James Alton
 

Hi Craig,

   We like to keep cans and tools in the normally dry main  bilge forward of the companionway slider so even a gallon of saltwater from a leaking companionway slider could do a lot of damage from corrosion so I am interested in any options to reduce water ingress.  I agree, a foot of water in the cockpit above the level of the sill that stayed for any length of time would certainly be a big concern   and I hope to never encounter conditions that truly flood the cockpit.     The arithmetic of course was only meant to be a reference point.  I cannot imagine with the large cockpit drains that even a large wave coming aboard would not be gone in short order but if conditions were bad enough that one wave found it's way aboard then certainly more could follow... 

    The original plywood slider on my boat is now 31 years old and is still structurally perfectly sound but the outer veener is about gone so the aesthetics are suffering.  I sort of doubt that I would get that much service from a modern day pc. of plexiglass and have in replaced quite a few plexiglass drop boards that cracked or even broke in half on a customers boat so the material can fail in ways that won't happen with the plywood.    I can understand the benefits of having more light below but actually the wife and I prefer the original Amel wooden slider so we won't be changing to plexiglass.  Actually the longer I own my Amel the less I am inclined to change things on the boat.   I appreciate the advice given to me by some very helpful people on this board to keep things as they were designed until I really got to know the boat. 

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
La Maddelena,  Italy 

     


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2018 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 
Hi James,
Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow aroun d 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well m aintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Beaute Olivier
 

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water up to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Hi James,
You won't get any argument from me!  Enjoy your Amel!
Cheers,
Craig SN68


Craig Briggs
 

Olivier - truly amazing! Thanks for the background. 

Out of curiosity, did you measure how long it took to drain the cockpit with the regular cockpit drains not plugged?

In your test I assume that over the two days the water slowly seeped past the "licker", into the box and drained into the bilge sump, certainly without overflowing the box. And, I assume, after the water got down to the level of the bottom of the hatch, it stopped going down.

As I said, it was a fine idea "the Captain" had!

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote :

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water up to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


eric freedman
 


greatketch@...
 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy