Topics

[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?


Willem Kroes
 

Thanks Mike, I will order today.

 

Kind regards,

 

Willem

 

SM#351 KAVANGA

Van: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Verzonden: zondag 2 december 2018 17:33
Aan: amelyachtowners@...
Onderwerp: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Willem,

Below is a copy of my order for part number 13714X2 that seems to work fine. (I am not sure if pasted graphics come through on the Bulletin Board.) Rock Auto has several profiles for what they call Belt Weatherstrip that can work if you want to explore a bit.

Mike

ALETES SM#240 St. Augustine, FL

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 8:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Hi Alan,

 

What was the part number of the seal you bought from Rockauto?

 

Best regards,

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM#351 KAVANGA


Mike Ondra
 

Willem,

Below is a copy of my order for part number 13714X2 that seems to work fine. (I am not sure if pasted graphics come through on the Bulletin Board.) Rock Auto has several profiles for what they call Belt Weatherstrip that can work if you want to explore a bit.

Mike

ALETES SM#240 St. Augustine, FL

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 8:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Hi Alan,

 

What was the part number of the seal you bought from Rockauto?

 

Best regards,

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM#351 KAVANGA


Willem Kroes
 

Hi Alan,

What was the part number of the seal you bought from Rockauto?

Best regards,

Willem Kroes

SM#351 KAVANGA


karkauai
 

That is where I bought the seal.  It was designed for the outside seal on an automobile side window.  I’m guessing that they have it but under a different number now.

Kent
S/V Kristy
SM243

On Oct 24, 2018, at 9:17 AM, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

RockAuto has many shapes of “belt weatherstrip” or “beltline” that can be used to seal the companionway sliding hatch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body,weatherstrip,belt+weatherstrip+/+window+scraper+seal,12406

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2018 8:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Hi Kent,

 

I looked at the website of JC Whitney's and the items number nor the items name was found.

 

Are you sure about this company selling the gasket that fits the companion way?

 

Regards,

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM #351 KAVANGA

 

 

Op 20 okt. 2018 22:37 schreef "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

 

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.

 

No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.

 

Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 

 

 

On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?

It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.

I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous

Regards

Alan Grayson

SV Ora Pai SM 406

Ft Lauderdale


Mike Ondra
 

RockAuto has many shapes of “belt weatherstrip” or “beltline” that can be used to seal the companionway sliding hatch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/body,weatherstrip,belt+weatherstrip+/+window+scraper+seal,12406

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2018 8:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

 

Hi Kent,

 

I looked at the website of JC Whitney's and the items number nor the items name was found.

 

Are you sure about this company selling the gasket that fits the companion way?

 

Regards,

 

Willem Kroes

 

SM #351 KAVANGA

 

 

Op 20 okt. 2018 22:37 schreef "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.

 

Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.

 

No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.

 

Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 

 

 

On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?

It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.

I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous

Regards

Alan Grayson

SV Ora Pai SM 406

Ft Lauderdale


Willem Kroes
 

Hi Kent,

I looked at the website of JC Whitney's and the items number nor the items name was found.

Are you sure about this company selling the gasket that fits the companion way?

Regards,

Willem Kroes

SM #351 KAVANGA


Op 20 okt. 2018 22:37 schreef "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" :
 

Here’s what I found a few years ago, it works great.


Here's the gasket material I found that works fine.  It's enough to do two replacements.

My first replacement in 2010 has dried out and needs replacement again after 5 years.

Purchased at JCWhitney.com

+1 800-529-4486

 

Belt Weatherstripping

Item No. 819751

 

Cost including shipping in 2010 was $28 US.


No bending required, just holes drilled and cut to length.


Since I put spar urethane on the companionway door, I’ve had no black rubber coming off on the door as it slides up and down.

 

Kent

SM243

Kristy 



On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:31 AM, bazgrayson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, I'm about to purchase this seal from Rockauto but have a few questions first.

Do you have any material left?
It looks like the metal piece is raised above the level of the fixed piece of wood that is on the outside of the door. Did you ever bend that down flush or have you left it raised, i tend to put my foot on the door sometimes.
I wish i had looked at it while at the rendezvous
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai SM 406
Ft Lauderdale


Beaute Olivier
 

Hello again,

I read Craig's post and my last message was probably not clear enough.
Once full of water (as per the test we made at AMEL) a Super Maramu's cockpit  (when we unplugged the drain holes) drains in 75 seconds.
So, if the cockpit is flooded by a big wave, the water will not stay long enough to bring too much water in the hatch box. But some water may enter the engine room and the lockers (at least through the locking pin holes).

Feel safe and dry, this cockpit is not so much exposed as a stern cockpit.

Olivier

On Tuesday, October 23, 2018, 10:36:06 AM GMT+2, lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Bill Kinney,

   Thanks, that is exactly the information that I was looking for.  I don't mind changing the lip seal when the flocking wears away.  The non silicone wax also sounds like a great idea that I will adopt. 

   Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena, Italy



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: 10/23/18 05:05 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In ame lyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polis h used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   Thanks, that is exactly the information that I was looking for.  I don't mind changing the lip seal when the flocking wears away.  The non silicone wax also sounds like a great idea that I will adopt. 

   Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena, Italy



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/23/18 05:05 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In ame lyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polis h used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


James Alton
 

Oliver,

   Many thanks for the confirmation of the drain holes for the companionway slider box being part of the original construction.  When I first got my Amel,  I noticed that a small amount of water, perhaps a quart that would collect in the bilge area under the steps if I was not careful to avoid spraying the compaionway slider while washing the boat. ( The licker seal on my boat currently is in poor shape and needs replacement by the way)  I investigated the inside of the slider box and initially it appeared to be sealed but after some careful cleaning I discovered two small drain holes around one quarter of an inch that were completely plugged with dirt that had collected over the years exactly as you described might be the case.  The holes were drilled at the extreme outboard ends of the slider box and angle down through the engine room bulkhead, exactly the position needed to drain all of the water from the box.   Once those holes were cleared, the leakage from spraying the compaionway slider completely went away despite my bad licker seal.  I will soon replace the licker seal and make keeping those drain holes open a part of my normal maitenance.  Thank you Amel for installing the huge cockpit drains and also for installing the sliding companionway door instead of using drop boards!

All the best,
James



Sent from Samsung tablet.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 10/22/18 20:14 (GMT+01:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water u p to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

&n bsp;  You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway be cause we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


greatketch@...
 


James,

The original seal was what the autobody people call a "dew wipe" for a car window, the part that is supposed to squeegee off film of dew when you roll the window down. As Mike described, they had a "felt" or "flocking" on them.  I suspect that this has long since warn off even the newest of the factory original installations on SMs.  With the "flocking" intact, on the hard, smooth varnish we don't see "chattering" of the rubber on the moving slide.  

Right now, our seal is getting old again, and the flocking has worn off--in spots.  Those bare rubber spots are starting to "grab" a bit.  Time for a new seal...

Wax helps a lot on the smooth operation of the whole system.  Helps the varnish last longer, and look better too.

P.S. It has been pointed out to me that I screwed up... forgetting to move from radius to diameter.  The equivalent round hole to a 2mm x 750 mm gap is 22mm in radius, so 44mm in diameter.  Four times the area, and water flow for your calculations. I really doubt there is a condition where it would ever sink anybody's boat, but the "box" the slide goes down into on my boat is lined with a pile fabric. I just don't want any drips in there so things can grow.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


eric freedman
 


Craig Briggs
 

Olivier - truly amazing! Thanks for the background. 

Out of curiosity, did you measure how long it took to drain the cockpit with the regular cockpit drains not plugged?

In your test I assume that over the two days the water slowly seeped past the "licker", into the box and drained into the bilge sump, certainly without overflowing the box. And, I assume, after the water got down to the level of the bottom of the hatch, it stopped going down.

As I said, it was a fine idea "the Captain" had!

Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote :

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water up to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Hi James,
You won't get any argument from me!  Enjoy your Amel!
Cheers,
Craig SN68


Beaute Olivier
 

Hello proud owners of AMEL dry boats,

from Sharki to AMEL 54, the companionway hatch slides into a wooden "box" that collects the potential water that could flow between the rubber "licker" seal and the wooden hatch. This box is sealed and drains into the engine room bilge, unless the draining hole is stuffed with dust and small particles.
You can get access to the bottom of this box if you remove the wooden board at the bottom of the hatch (secured with a few screws). Then you can lift the hatch up to hitting the dodger, and have a look inside (and clean it).

So..., very little chance for this water to flood the vessel.
What if your cockpit is flooded by a wave?

When the SM was in production, we made once a test of draining the cockpit (thanks to the cockpit drains). We clogged all possible holes in the cockpit, plugged both cockpit drains and filled it up with water up to the backseats tops. Guess how much time it took to drain the cockpit?
Answer in two days.

All that said, it is good to keep the licker seal (originally a RENAULT cars part for opening windows) in good condition. I'm not sure Maud can still supply those...

Olivier

On Monday, October 22, 2018, 4:07:19 PM GMT+2, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:


 

Hi James,

Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


James Alton
 

Hi Craig,

   We like to keep cans and tools in the normally dry main  bilge forward of the companionway slider so even a gallon of saltwater from a leaking companionway slider could do a lot of damage from corrosion so I am interested in any options to reduce water ingress.  I agree, a foot of water in the cockpit above the level of the sill that stayed for any length of time would certainly be a big concern   and I hope to never encounter conditions that truly flood the cockpit.     The arithmetic of course was only meant to be a reference point.  I cannot imagine with the large cockpit drains that even a large wave coming aboard would not be gone in short order but if conditions were bad enough that one wave found it's way aboard then certainly more could follow... 

    The original plywood slider on my boat is now 31 years old and is still structurally perfectly sound but the outer veener is about gone so the aesthetics are suffering.  I sort of doubt that I would get that much service from a modern day pc. of plexiglass and have in replaced quite a few plexiglass drop boards that cracked or even broke in half on a customers boat so the material can fail in ways that won't happen with the plywood.    I can understand the benefits of having more light below but actually the wife and I prefer the original Amel wooden slider so we won't be changing to plexiglass.  Actually the longer I own my Amel the less I am inclined to change things on the boat.   I appreciate the advice given to me by some very helpful people on this board to keep things as they were designed until I really got to know the boat. 

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
La Maddelena,  Italy 

     


-----Original Message-----
From: sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Mon, Oct 22, 2018 4:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 
Hi James,
Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow aroun d 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well m aintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Danny Simms
 

Hi,
As I have said before My companionway slider is varnished and I use furniture polish on it. The polish I use is Neopol original cream polish and I have had no trouble re varnishing. My rubber strip is original and the hatch looks good and goes up and down easily.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 at 22:59, lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill Kinney,


   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Hi James,
Wow, that's some scary arithmetic, which I'm sure is correct. If you've got a 1 foot head of water on your companionway hatch for an hour (let's see, that's like over the cockpit seats), uh, I think you've got bigger worries than some water below. And, the least of your worries might be that the weatherstripping could in no way handle that load and will have bent open, 
Then again, the weatherstripping is a fine idea that "the Captain" had, notwithstanding shorter-lived companionway plywood and the need to have a dark interior with it closed. 
Cheers, Craig SN68


---In amelyachtowners@..., <lokiyawl2@...> wrote :

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Mike Ondra
 

The belted weather strip from Rockauto was "flocked" over the rubber so it is a felt-like material that touches the sliding hatch. Slides with much less friction than the original rubber against the hatch. No black marks or turning over ofthe rubber.

Mike Ondra
Alete SM#240

On Oct 21, 2018, at 2:39 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


James Alton
 

Bill Kinney,

   You make some very good points.  A 22mm hole at a 1' head could flow around 615 GPH if my calculations are correct so there could be conditions where this could allow a lot of water into the boat.  I certainly hope to never encounter the conditions that Eric has.   One of the primary functions of a boat imo is to keep water on the outside and this seems to me to be a good way to reduce intrusion.  I second your concerns about silicones which can be impossible to finish over if they soak into bare wood.  Customers have brought boats to us to refinish the interior varnishwork and some where furniture polish was used were impossible to recoat,  nothing but fish eyes no matter how much cleaning we did. On the other hand some boats that also had furniture polish used on them were fine to refinish and I never determined which products had silicone or in them and which were safe so I just revarnish when needed. 

    The varnish on the slider I imagine gives you a nice sealed and fairly hard surface for the wiper to rub on.  Does the wiper ever chatter as you raise and lower the slider?  I need to reface or replace my door and will go with varnish as well.  


Have a safe trip back South.

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
La Maddelena Island,  Italy

   


-----Original Message-----
From: greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners Sent: Sun, Oct 21, 2018 8:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Companionway ( washboard ) rubber seal replacement?

 

As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA


Craig Briggs
 

Well, Biil, actually, a 22mm round hole - call it an inch in diameter - takes in very little rain water unless you make a funnel to it from a tarp, like in the old days when sailors collected rain water for drinking. Now, maybe you could consider the hatch to be the funnel (pretty inefficient) and, yes, you'll get a bit more water. But, really, not a whole lot and since our revered  "Captain Henri" himself, engineered the drain to handle anything that might get through, IMHO the weatherstripping is really not needed.  It only tends to deteriorate the plywood companionway board (as most owners have experienced) or, if you've switched to plexiglass for wonderful brightness below decks with the companionway closed, it scratches that badly.
FWIW,
Cheers, Craig SN68 with a really cheerful and bright below decks with the companionway closed! 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :


As Bill R says, I think the weatherstrip is important to keep water out of the boat. If there is ANY gap, all the rain water that hits the surface of the slide will run down the surface of the slide into the boat.  It is easy to say "it's only 2mm wide" but it is 750mm long. That is about the same area as a 22 mm round hole.  Would you tolerate a 22mm round hole in the side of your cockpit that drained water into the boat? I would not.

An occasional coat of wax on our varnished slide keeps the rubber from sticking to it.  We varnished the teak companionway because we much prefer the "look" of well maintained varnish over teak oil--strictly personal preference.  With the same maintenance schedule, (and , yes, a bit more work) it holds up well.

If you do decide you prefer varnish, stick with the wax, and avoid the silicone spray and furniture polish containing silicone. Silicone is virtually impossible to remove when it is time to renew the finish, and it can cause you nightmares with the next maintenance coat of varnish "beading up" on the surface.  There are ways to get around it, but the best answer (again--with a varnish finish) is to just avoid the silicone.

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Annapolis, MD, USA