Topics

Faux Teak and Deck Paint


Jose Venegas
 

Dear Amelian brother and sisters: 

What kind of paint has been used for the faux teak boards?  
Is there Awlgrip paint colors for the faux teak boards and for the rest of deck?  If not what paint/color has been used for them.When it gets a little warmer I would like to do both the faux teak boards and the stripes, and a year from now have the rest of the deck done.
Any suggestions?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K #278.
Freezing in Boston harbor.


Arlo
 

I would love to know as well...


James Alton
 

Jose,

   The original finish for the faux teak and the stripes were done originally in Polyester gel coat.  Apparently the stripes were hand painted in according to what I have read recently.  Awl grip can be mixed to any colour desired so matching is possible.  Awl grip is a good paint and properly applied can last decade or more in the elements though a deck does get a lot of traffic so maybe less there depending on usage.   I did get 20 years with a custom textured nonskid pattern using Awlgrip on my previous boat and it still looked good when I sold the boat.   I am not sure of how one would properly prepare the textured surface of the gel coat on the Amel deck without losing the original detail of the wood grain in case that is important to you.  Also, applying Awlgrip without some kind of a nonskid coating would probably be quite slick and I don’t like the Awlgrip skidless additives which are high density polypropylene that become quite slick if the paint chips off.  I do have a solution to produce a textured pattern as mentioned above that is very skidless but it will cover the detail in the original of the simulated wood grain.  Nonetheless this is the direction I am considering going in the future.  In the meantime the thick original polyester gel coat may develop cracks and become thin in some spots but will still last a long time.    If you do some searching there should be other discussion about the Amel decks that could be helpful to you.

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 7, 2019, at 11:39 AM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

Dear Amelian brother and sisters: 

What kind of paint has been used for the faux teak boards?  
Is there Awlgrip paint colors for the faux teak boards and for the rest of deck?  If not what paint/color has been used for them.When it gets a little warmer I would like to do both the faux teak boards and the stripes, and a year from now have the rest of the deck done.
Any suggestions?

Jose Venegas
Ipanema SM2K #278.
Freezing in Boston harbor.


Jose Venegas
 

James,

Thanks for your info.  When I had Ipanema's hull done with Awl grip 5 years ago, the also covered the non-skid sections of the stern, making them quite skiddy.  I complained and they added an extra layer with a few grains of sand or something like that which made the better.  However, I did not like the look of it compared with the original finish.  Because Ipanemas Faux-teak is in general good, after what you tell me I will try to get some thinner paint to have a few touches in the areas where it is missing, hopefully not reducing too much the pattern.
Interested in finding out if people have used other methods to deal with the problem

By the way, the hull painted wit Awl grip still looks shining after more than 5 years and with very little work.  I will use it on the deck when ready to do it in a year or two

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278


Craig Briggs
 

Hey Jose,
I've got the same issue on Sangaris, with the original faux teak wearing off and showing brush strokes.  From a prior life I recall there's an attribute of paint called "bridging". That's the paint's ability to fill in uneven surfaces. 

There are also "anti-bridging" paints that don't fill in the surfaces, although they are mostly for acoustical applications.  So, that's more than I know about the subject, but I wonder if anyone listening might have a PhD in the subject, or, better yet, have done it. I'd love to get a "Non-bridging" paint to redo my decks so as to keep the non-skid properties. If you think about it, that's kind of like keeping the acoustical properties of a surface.

Best, Craig Briggs SN68 Sangaris


James Alton
 

Jose,

   When you say that the Faux-teak is missing in places do those thin areas look white by chance? If so closely by feel deck where you have the white areas and you may find that the wood grain texture exists in these areas, they are just the wrong colour.  In looking at my boat, I am pretty certain that Amel brushed the gel coat into the mold for the Faux teak colour and then sprayed the rest of the deck mold with the white gel coat that we see on the areas outside of the Faux teak area.   This makes sense from a production standpoint because to spray the Faux-teak area would require masking off the entire deck mold except for the Faux-teak area..a lot of extra work.  It is really hard to brush gel coat to a  perfectly even thickness  so perfectly normal to have some thinner areas.  These thin areas look on my boat like brush marks because actually they are, only from the reverse side. (grin)  The only point I wanted to make was that on my boat at least, enough white gel coat was sprayed over the top of the Faux Teak gel coat that despite the Faux-Teak colour being thin in places, the fibreglass is well covered and protected.  So I view this as just a cosmetic issue so pretty low down on my to do list currently.  

  You can certainly experiment with patching in the Faux-teak colour where it is missing.  I have not yet tried touching up my decks using the ideas that follow so your mileage may vary but I have done similar touchups on some other projects.  Unfortunately the results I have obtained are never as good as the original but there has always been improvement..  I would suggest getting a flattening agent for your Awlgrip to reduce the gloss and improve the traction some.  You will need to experiment with how much to add to get your best match.  The paint will need to be dry to know for sure how it will look. Go for a bit too shiny as the trend will be for the Awlgrip to flatten more over time.    As you found out, super shiny Awlgrip is really slippery stuff.  

  I wish that I could suggest an anti-slip additive for painted surfaces but I have not really found one that I like much and I have tried more than a dozen over the years.  Sand does work great for nonskid but it is too hard to sand down with normal sandpaper so when the time comes to recoat you have a problem.  Sand also has a colour so will show up as the paint wears down or chips off of the sand bits and this is the problem with many of the other additives.  We have had good luck using glass beads to varnish.  These tiny beads are added to the paint used for reflective stripping on the roads.  With (Including the Awlgrip /Awlbrite varnish) varnish, the glass beads disappear visually though the non-skid texture remains.  You can also sand them down when the time comes which is a little confusing since I would think that glass would be too hard to sand too but it does work.  I have not tried the glass beads with the Awlgrip paint but it might be worth doing a small test panel to see if you like it or not.  The fine Awlgrip non-skid additive will hold up the best of the additives they sell.  The more coarse Awlgrip additives become very slippery over time as the paint sticks poorly to the plastic bits so eventually you end up walking on the exposed plastic bits as the paint chips off.  I developed a technique where I thicken the Awlgrip and apply it with a roller.  It makes the best non skid I have walked on to date but it would completely cover you wood grain. 

   If you go to the Awlgrip.com website and click on colours at the top of the page, you will see the option to have custom colours created.  Awl grip can be applied in thin coats which you can use to your advantage in blending the paint to the Faux-Teak gel coat.  Build up thin coats  as needed to cover your thin areas and then enlarge the patched area with additional coats to end up with only one thin coat at the edge of the repair. You want to spread out your laps in other words.  You could also do a little wet sanding and polishing around the blend lines to help the paint blend into the gelcoat.  A tiny HVLP spray gun might also work well in doing these touchup areas but it takes a little practice.

   I am not really sure how to properly prepare the Faux-teak gelcoat surface for paint since you are wanting to retain the wood grain effect.  Sandpaper will tend to flatten the surface so the only other option I have used are the Maroon Scotchbrite pads which you can compress into the low areas to scratch all surfaces.  The surface really needs to be freshly scratched everywhere to get a decent bond. Awl grip is supposed to be applied over a primer such as the 545 but white or gray are your only options so will complicate patching.   I have found that the Awlgrip topcoats actually have great adhesion to a prepared surface as rule so if I try patching I will omit the primer.  

  Glad to hear that you like the Awlgrip on your hull.

Best of luck with the patching, please let me know what seems to work for you.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 8, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

James,

Thanks for your info.  When I had Ipanema's hull done with Awl grip 5 years ago, the also covered the non-skid sections of the stern, making them quite skiddy.  I complained and they added an extra layer with a few grains of sand or something like that which made the better.  However, I did not like the look of it compared with the original finish.  Because Ipanemas Faux-teak is in general good, after what you tell me I will try to get some thinner paint to have a few touches in the areas where it is missing, hopefully not reducing too much the pattern.
Interested in finding out if people have used other methods to deal with the problem

By the way, the hull painted wit Awl grip still looks shining after more than 5 years and with very little work.  I will use it on the deck when ready to do it in a year or two

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278


ngtnewington Newington
 

Non Slip Paint

Many years ago on my first boat, "Faith of Norfolk” I was fed up with the teak deck. So I ripped it all up. It had been laid over ply which was still sound. To cut a long story short; after glassing the ply with epoxy and filling and fairing I was left with a blank canvas. I wanted a good even non skid surface, but being up the Lumut river in Malaysia 1993 with minimal materials to hand and certainly no chandlers even if I had any money, I used sugar.

I split the non skid area up into do-able zones, well prepped and masked. using some pale grey epoxy primer paint, I wetted out the area and then using a sieve sprinkled the sugar on the wet paint until it was evenly covered. Once dry I washed it all off really well making sure that no sugar was left. This I tested by licking the deck! The result was that the sugar created tiny volcanoes in the paint that were very grippy. Too grippy/ quite sharp but then when over painted with the finish paint came out just right.

It is an unconventional approach but has many advantages, not least being sandable. I suggest trying it out on a piece of board.

Nick

Amelia (54 hull 019)

On 8 Mar 2019, at 23:23, James Alton via Groups.Io <lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Jose,

   When you say that the Faux-teak is missing in places do those thin areas look white by chance? If so closely by feel deck where you have the white areas and you may find that the wood grain texture exists in these areas, they are just the wrong colour.  In looking at my boat, I am pretty certain that Amel brushed the gel coat into the mold for the Faux teak colour and then sprayed the rest of the deck mold with the white gel coat that we see on the areas outside of the Faux teak area.   This makes sense from a production standpoint because to spray the Faux-teak area would require masking off the entire deck mold except for the Faux-teak area..a lot of extra work.  It is really hard to brush gel coat to a  perfectly even thickness  so perfectly normal to have some thinner areas.  These thin areas look on my boat like brush marks because actually they are, only from the reverse side. (grin)  The only point I wanted to make was that on my boat at least, enough white gel coat was sprayed over the top of the Faux Teak gel coat that despite the Faux-Teak colour being thin in places, the fibreglass is well covered and protected.  So I view this as just a cosmetic issue so pretty low down on my to do list currently.  

  You can certainly experiment with patching in the Faux-teak colour where it is missing.  I have not yet tried touching up my decks using the ideas that follow so your mileage may vary but I have done similar touchups on some other projects.  Unfortunately the results I have obtained are never as good as the original but there has always been improvement..  I would suggest getting a flattening agent for your Awlgrip to reduce the gloss and improve the traction some.  You will need to experiment with how much to add to get your best match.  The paint will need to be dry to know for sure how it will look. Go for a bit too shiny as the trend will be for the Awlgrip to flatten more over time.    As you found out, super shiny Awlgrip is really slippery stuff.  

  I wish that I could suggest an anti-slip additive for painted surfaces but I have not really found one that I like much and I have tried more than a dozen over the years.  Sand does work great for nonskid but it is too hard to sand down with normal sandpaper so when the time comes to recoat you have a problem.  Sand also has a colour so will show up as the paint wears down or chips off of the sand bits and this is the problem with many of the other additives.  We have had good luck using glass beads to varnish.  These tiny beads are added to the paint used for reflective stripping on the roads.  With (Including the Awlgrip /Awlbrite varnish) varnish, the glass beads disappear visually though the non-skid texture remains.  You can also sand them down when the time comes which is a little confusing since I would think that glass would be too hard to sand too but it does work.  I have not tried the glass beads with the Awlgrip paint but it might be worth doing a small test panel to see if you like it or not.  The fine Awlgrip non-skid additive will hold up the best of the additives they sell.  The more coarse Awlgrip additives become very slippery over time as the paint sticks poorly to the plastic bits so eventually you end up walking on the exposed plastic bits as the paint chips off.  I developed a technique where I thicken the Awlgrip and apply it with a roller.  It makes the best non skid I have walked on to date but it would completely cover you wood grain. 

   If you go to the Awlgrip.com website and click on colours at the top of the page, you will see the option to have custom colours created.  Awl grip can be applied in thin coats which you can use to your advantage in blending the paint to the Faux-Teak gel coat.  Build up thin coats  as needed to cover your thin areas and then enlarge the patched area with additional coats to end up with only one thin coat at the edge of the repair. You want to spread out your laps in other words.  You could also do a little wet sanding and polishing around the blend lines to help the paint blend into the gelcoat.  A tiny HVLP spray gun might also work well in doing these touchup areas but it takes a little practice.

   I am not really sure how to properly prepare the Faux-teak gelcoat surface for paint since you are wanting to retain the wood grain effect.  Sandpaper will tend to flatten the surface so the only other option I have used are the Maroon Scotchbrite pads which you can compress into the low areas to scratch all surfaces.  The surface really needs to be freshly scratched everywhere to get a decent bond. Awl grip is supposed to be applied over a primer such as the 545 but white or gray are your only options so will complicate patching.   I have found that the Awlgrip topcoats actually have great adhesion to a prepared surface as rule so if I try patching I will omit the primer.  

  Glad to hear that you like the Awlgrip on your hull.

Best of luck with the patching, please let me know what seems to work for you.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 8, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io <josegvenegas@...> wrote:

James,

Thanks for your info.  When I had Ipanema's hull done with Awl grip 5 years ago, the also covered the non-skid sections of the stern, making them quite skiddy.  I complained and they added an extra layer with a few grains of sand or something like that which made the better.  However, I did not like the look of it compared with the original finish.  Because Ipanemas Faux-teak is in general good, after what you tell me I will try to get some thinner paint to have a few touches in the areas where it is missing, hopefully not reducing too much the pattern.
Interested in finding out if people have used other methods to deal with the problem

By the way, the hull painted wit Awl grip still looks shining after more than 5 years and with very little work.  I will use it on the deck when ready to do it in a year or two

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278



Brent Cameron
 

That puts new meaning to the term “Sweet boat!”  

Brent Cameron, Future SM2K owner

--
Brent Cameron

Future Super Maramu 2000 Owner & Amel Owner Registry Moderator

Oro-Medonte, Ontario, Canada


Jose Venegas
 

James,
You are precise, the areas that I saw missing the paint appeared as if they had been brushed painted and the surface was still the same as the rest.  That made me think that they had been painted before. but I guess they just had a thin layer of gel coat when new.  For now, I will proceed with redoing the stripes and ignore the few regions of missing paint.

Thanks Again

Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278
Boston


Jose Venegas
 

Nick,
That is a clever idea!
Maybe I can make a surface mold with caramel and put it in contact with a newly painted section before it has hardened.  Once hard, I will wash it away with water, or use it to sweeten my coffee  ;)   Seriously, I have been thinking of making a surface mold that could be peeled off and your idea of sugar or any water soluble substance could be the answer.
I will keep you informed.
Jose
Ipanema SM2K 278


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Nick. Good system. I had a professional painter do decks for me years ago on a boat several previous. He used epsom salts rather than sugar. He graded the crystals into three sizes and masked the side decks into oblongs separated by the width of the masking tape. He painted then each oblong  using a food can with holes punched in the bottom and sprinkled the epsom salts evenly over the wet paint.

He used the different sizes of crystals creating a really nice effect, largest at the back, then smaller and then smallest at the front. As with the sugar when the paint was dry he washed the epsom salts out with water. The effect was outstanding, looked terrific with the oblong patters and the different indent sizes. No overpaint was needed as the larger crystals gave a less sharp effect than sugar. The different grades gave different grip, the smallest the best which is why he used those on the front where the fore deck crew had to work.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 09 March 2019 at 22:36 "ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io" <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Non Slip Paint

Many years ago on my first boat, "Faith of Norfolk” I was fed up with the teak deck. So I ripped it all up. It had been laid over ply which was still sound. To cut a long story short; after glassing the ply with epoxy and filling and fairing I was left with a blank canvas. I wanted a good even non skid surface, but being up the Lumut river in Malaysia 1993 with minimal materials to hand and certainly no chandlers even if I had any money, I used sugar.

I split the non skid area up into do-able zones, well prepped and masked. using some pale grey epoxy primer paint, I wetted out the area and then using a sieve sprinkled the sugar on the wet paint until it was evenly covered. Once dry I washed it all off really well making sure that no sugar was left. This I tested by licking the deck! The result was that the sugar created tiny volcanoes in the paint that were very grippy. Too grippy/ quite sharp but then when over painted with the finish paint came out just right.

It is an unconventional approach but has many advantages, not least being sandable. I suggest trying it out on a piece of board.

Nick

Amelia (54 hull 019)

On 8 Mar 2019, at 23:23, James Alton via Groups.Io < lokiyawl2@...> wrote:

Jose,

   When you say that the Faux-teak is missing in places do those thin areas look white by chance? If so closely by feel deck where you have the white areas and you may find that the wood grain texture exists in these areas, they are just the wrong colour.  In looking at my boat, I am pretty certain that Amel brushed the gel coat into the mold for the Faux teak colour and then sprayed the rest of the deck mold with the white gel coat that we see on the areas outside of the Faux teak area.   This makes sense from a production standpoint because to spray the Faux-teak area would require masking off the entire deck mold except for the Faux-teak area..a lot of extra work.  It is really hard to brush gel coat to a  perfectly even thickness  so perfectly normal to have some thinner areas.  These thin areas look on my boat like brush marks because actually they are, only from the reverse side. (grin)  The only point I wanted to make was that on my boat at least, enough white gel coat was sprayed over the top of the Faux Teak gel coat that despite the Faux-Teak colour being thin in places, the fibreglass is well covered and protected.  So I view this as just a cosmetic issue so pretty low down on my to do list currently.  

  You can certainly experiment with patching in the Faux-teak colour where it is missing.  I have not yet tried touching up my decks using the ideas that follow so your mileage may vary but I have done similar touchups on some other projects.  Unfortunately the results I have obtained are never as good as the original but there has always been improvement..  I would suggest getting a flattening agent for your Awlgrip to reduce the gloss and improve the traction some.  You will need to experiment with how much to add to get your best match.  The paint will need to be dry to know for sure how it will look. Go for a bit too shiny as the trend will be for the Awlgrip to flatten more over time.    As you found out, super shiny Awlgrip is really slippery stuff.  

  I wish that I could suggest an anti-slip additive for painted surfaces but I have not really found one that I like much and I have tried more than a dozen over the years.  Sand does work great for nonskid but it is too hard to sand down with normal sandpaper so when the time comes to recoat you have a problem.  Sand also has a colour so will show up as the paint wears down or chips off of the sand bits and this is the problem with many of the other additives.  We have had good luck using glass beads to varnish.  These tiny beads are added to the paint used for reflective stripping on the roads.  With (Including the Awlgrip /Awlbrite varnish) varnish, the glass beads disappear visually though the non-skid texture remains.  You can also sand them down when the time comes which is a little confusing since I would think that glass would be too hard to sand too but it does work.  I have not tried the glass beads with the Awlgrip paint but it might be worth doing a small test panel to see if you like it or not.  The fine Awlgrip non-skid additive will hold up the best of the additives they sell.  The more coarse Awlgrip additives become very slippery over time as the paint sticks poorly to the plastic bits so eventually you end up walking on the exposed plastic bits as the paint chips off.  I developed a technique where I thicken the Awlgrip and apply it with a roller.  It makes the best non skid I have walked on to date but it would completely cover you wood grain. 

   If you go to the   Awlgrip.com website and click on colours at the top of the page, you will see the option to have custom colours created.  Awl grip can be applied in thin coats which you can use to your advantage in blending the paint to the Faux-Teak gel coat.  Build up thin coats  as needed to cover your thin areas and then enlarge the patched area with additional coats to end up with only one thin coat at the edge of the repair. You want to spread out your laps in other words.  You could also do a little wet sanding and polishing around the blend lines to help the paint blend into the gelcoat.  A tiny HVLP spray gun might also work well in doing these touchup areas but it takes a little practice.

   I am not really sure how to properly prepare the Faux-teak gelcoat surface for paint since you are wanting to retain the wood grain effect.  Sandpaper will tend to flatten the surface so the only other option I have used are the Maroon Scotchbrite pads which you can compress into the low areas to scratch all surfaces.  The surface really needs to be freshly scratched everywhere to get a decent bond. Awl grip is supposed to be applied over a primer such as the 545 but white or gray are your only options so will complicate patching.   I have found that the Awlgrip topcoats actually have great adhesion to a prepared surface as rule so if I try patching I will omit the primer.  

  Glad to hear that you like the Awlgrip on your hull.

Best of luck with the patching, please let me know what seems to work for you.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 8, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Jose Venegas via Groups.Io < josegvenegas@...> wrote:

James,

Thanks for your info.  When I had Ipanema's hull done with Awl grip 5 years ago, the also covered the non-skid sections of the stern, making them quite skiddy.  I complained and they added an extra layer with a few grains of sand or something like that which made the better.  However, I did not like the look of it compared with the original finish.  Because Ipanemas Faux-teak is in general good, after what you tell me I will try to get some thinner paint to have a few touches in the areas where it is missing, hopefully not reducing too much the pattern.
Interested in finding out if people have used other methods to deal with the problem

By the way, the hull painted wit Awl grip still looks shining after more than 5 years and with very little work.  I will use it on the deck when ready to do it in a year or two

Jose 
Ipanema SM2K 278



 


 


Mark Erdos
 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 


James Alton
 

Mark,

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

Best,

James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.
 
If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
 


Mark Erdos
 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

 

 


James Alton
 

Mark,

   Another good question.  My impression from reading the posting about painting the deck stripes was that they were done after the deck was out of the mold but I could be wrong.  The stripes could certainly have been painted in the mold but I imagine it would have been super hard to keep the lines straight without taping since the stripe area would appear as a raised area in the mold.  Perhaps someone in the know could enlighten us?  

Best,

James
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 11:55 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

James,
 
I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with. 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint
 
Mark,
 
   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.
 
Best,
 
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
 
I feel the need to ask a stupid question.
 
If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
 
 



amelforme
 

Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.

 

I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.

 

Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

All The Best, Joel   

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

 

 


James Alton
 
Edited

Joel,
 
   Many thanks for giving us the final word on how  the grooves in the Amel deck were originally gel coated  in the mold.  It is amazing to have input from someone that was actually at the factory when some of these amazing boats were built.   I now better understand why you were so impressed with the work that the “gals” did in painting these stripes!  Besides somehow cutting a straight line and holding the required thickness, they had to be very careful avoid any drips onto the rest of the prepared mold.  I would never have had the patience myself.   I will never look at my deck quite the same again.  (grin)
 
Thanks Joel,
 
James
SV Sueno, Maramu #220

On Mar 10, 2019, at 3:00 PM, amelforme <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.
 
I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.
 
Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.
 
Hope this is helpful.
 
All The Best, Joel   
 
          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.
                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE 
                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485
 
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint
 
James,
 
I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with. 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint
 
Mark,
 
   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.
 
Best,
 
James
SV Sueno
Maramu #220
 
On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
 
I feel the need to ask a stupid question.
 
If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia
 
 

 


Mark Erdos
 

Joel,

 

You can call me dense, but I still do not understand if the dark brown gel-coat was added to the mold as a first step or done after the deck was removed from the mold as a last step?

 

Cindy says, hi.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 3:00 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.

 

I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.

 

Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

All The Best, Joel   

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

 

 


amelforme
 

Mark, density was never considered. If you never have laminated fiberglass, it is not intuitive to consider the process. Vela and I are on the way to Puerto Rico. When I get a moment, I will draw you a feeble cross section which shows layer by layer. Might be helpful to imagine that the deck mold is upside down until the deck is removed and joined by six laminates around the entire perimeter to the hull that is still in its mold.
Cindy probably has this figured out and is just being kind....

Keep Smiling ! 
Joël

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 5:02 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Joel,

 

You can call me dense, but I still do not understand if the dark brown gel-coat was added to the mold as a first step or done after the deck was removed from the mold as a last step?

 

Cindy says, hi.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of amelforme
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 3:00 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Hi Mark and Cindy. I saw this process in action many times over the years. The “grooves” between the faux teak planks are recessed on the finished deck. On the mold they are quite proud of the planking. The dark brown of the “ grooves “ are the first thing to be done well before the brown of the deck is applied over. This dark  brown gel coat, I was told, had a wax component that surfaced and supplied a barrier against the atmosphere for proper curing. The brown gel coat of the decking was applied on top of the grooves/very dark brown gel coat.

 

I might add that the gals doing this process were very skilled and experienced at this process. They also had incredible focus and would not respond to conversation while doing this.

 

Having restored the plank separating gel coat with gel coat by brush and also the paint method by the striping tool, you will achieve better cosmetic results with the striping tool, especially the first few times you do it until you acquire some skills.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

All The Best, Joel   

 

          JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Mark Erdos
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:56 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

James,

 

I feel very enlighten. Thank you. However, a question still nags me. If the deck stripes were applied by the French ladies of Amel, did they do it in the mold so the underside of the deck stripes were exposed to air, or did they paint the stripes once the decks were removed from the mold? If it is the latter, then the products and technique used by Amel seems like it would be the option to go with.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of James Alton via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Faux Teak and Deck Paint

 

Mark,

 

   That is not a stupid question, in fact it is a great one!  It is certainly possible to recoat gelcoat with new gelcoat.  In general however it is important to understand that the gelcoat used for boatbuilding are “air inhibited cure”.  This means that the exposure to air prevents a full cure so the surface remains soft and tacky.  This is a benefit when boatbuilding since this increases the bond between the gel coat and the layers of fibreglass being added.  The gelcoat against the mold itself cures nice and hard since air is excluded. So there are additives that can be used with regular gelcoat or coatings that can applied allow the gelcoat to fully cure.  One is simply a wax additive which floats to the surface and helps exclude the air, another option is to spray the fresh gelcoat with PVA which is poly vinyl acetate, it just forms a film over the gelcoat to exclude the air. You can just wash the PVA off with water later after the gel coat is fully cured. There are also some specialty additives that you can purchase from major suppliers of polyester resins, some of which work well when patching gelcoat.  So you want to use one of these options to help your gelcoat cure properly on the surface if you are using regular boat building type gel coat.  There are also non air inhibited gel coats and I have used one called Simtec Prestec which can be tinted to any colour.  The material cures hard as glass without any additives but for some reason the UV resistance is inferior. I have never looked into the reason but there could be other non air inhibited gel coats that have better UV resistance.  New gelcoat will bond pretty well to old gel coat if you really roughen up the surface and do not have any contaminants on the surface.  60-80 grit would not be too coarse.  I am absolutely sure that if done correctly that gel coat will outlast any one part paint and possibly even the two part paints.  Unfortunately gel coat is not too easy to brush on.   So you have to apply it smoothly since It does not self level like paints do..  Adding some styrene thinner can help with brushing some but mostly you need to apply it as smooth as possible via your technique.  The good thing with the gel coat is that if you have thick or uneven spots you can come back and sand and polish out those areas but what a lot of work that would be if you had a lot of them!  So yes, this is actually an excellent idea IMO.

 

Best,

 

James

SV Sueno

Maramu #220

 

On Mar 10, 2019, at 10:50 AM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

I feel the need to ask a stupid question.

 

If the original deck striping was done with tinted gel-coat and brushed by hand, then why does nobody use this option to recondition the deck stripes. After all, the gel-coat applied by the French ladies of Amel lasted a very long time. Having never really done much work with gel-coat other than the occasional patch, I don’t really understand why this would be a non-option. If someone could enlighten me, that would be appreciated. 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Santa Marta, Colombia