Topics

Dessalator duo 60 warning light


Alan Grayson
 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas


eric freedman
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas


Alan Grayson
 

Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas


eric freedman
 

Hi Alan,

Sounds similar to my problem. I had a bad hose connected to the membranes. It looked fine outside but partially collapsed on the inside.  That could be your problem. I basically rebuilt everything and the last thing that I did not replace or rebuild was the 2 hoses on the hp pump.

 

Does your water quality sensor actually work? On many older Super Maramu’s  Dessalator

supplied a water quality sensor but it was not connected to the circuitry, do you know if you water quality sensor is actually working? On the older Super Maramu’s the green light was connected to a timer circuit and in about 2 minutes the green light went on regardless of the quality of the water—just an aside.

 

Just as an aside, if I recall correctly you are supposed to disconnect the output water from a new set of membranes and hook the output to a hose and run it into the bilge. You should run the watermaker for 20-30 minutes to flush out the sanitizing solution. That was from the USA Dessalator rep.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 8:15 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas


 

Alan,

Some random observations:
  1. The pressure knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise when flushing.
  2. It is possible that you have some sort of failure with the 24VDC bypass solenoid
  3. You should not have any waterflow showing in the glass waterflow indicator when flushing with freshwater.  I think it is possible that something is causing freshwater to pass through the tube and V shaped Brine seals to the product water pathway. The possible causes could be damaged V shaped Brine seals, something wrong in the assembly of the membranes, tubes and end caps, or possibly something wrong with the bypass solenoid. 
  4. The most common "Red Light" shutdown is because the high pressure sensor senses too high pressure. This is commonly caused by a defective pressure gauge. In other words, the actual pressure is higher than 50 bar and the sensor shuts the system down. I was supporting a client yesterday with this defective pressure gauge issue. I had him turn the pressure valve to about 1/2" short of the green. His system did not shut down and began making about 60 liters per hour.
  5. Flow indication when the pressure valve is completely turned anticlockwise and flushing with freshwater may be an indication of incorrect orientation of the tube end caps causing the shaped brine seal to be ineffective i.e. oriented the wrong way. It might also be caused by the hoses connected in reversed locations.
Take a look at the attached PDF, which is a page from my book. 

Be very careful because even the slightest reverse pressure (1-2 BAR) through the membranes will damage the membranes and cause them to be ineffective. By reverse pressure, I mean water flowing backwards from the product water output back into the membrane tubes. Unfortunately some people refer to the process of freshwater flushing as "backwashing." It is not. Freshwater flushing flushes the entire saltwater pathway and only the outside of the membranes.

I hope this helps.
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019, 7:15 PM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas


Thomas Peacock
 

One more thought, having lost much hair getting my water maker to work after new membranes:

Have you sampled and tested the “fresh” water output just before the red light comes on? If it is too salty, the switch will trip and shut it down. I had this problem because of incorrectly installed O-rings with the membrane. I am assuming new O-rings were installed with the new membranes?

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida



On Mar 24, 2019, at 9:36 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Some random observations:
  1. The pressure knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise when flushing.
  2. It is possible that you have some sort of failure with the 24VDC bypass solenoid
  3. You should not have any waterflow showing in the glass waterflow indicator when flushing with freshwater.  I think it is possible that something is causing freshwater to pass through the tube and V shaped Brine seals to the product water pathway. The possible causes could be damaged V shaped Brine seals, something wrong in the assembly of the membranes, tubes and end caps, or possibly something wrong with the bypass solenoid. 
  4. The most common "Red Light" shutdown is because the high pressure sensor senses too high pressure. This is commonly caused by a defective pressure gauge. In other words, the actual pressure is higher than 50 bar and the sensor shuts the system down. I was supporting a client yesterday with this defective pressure gauge issue. I had him turn the pressure valve to about 1/2" short of the green. His system did not shut down and began making about 60 liters per hour.
  5. Flow indication when the pressure valve is completely turned anticlockwise and flushing with freshwater may be an indication of incorrect orientation of the tube end caps causing the shaped brine seal to be ineffective i.e. oriented the wrong way. It might also be caused by the hoses connected in reversed locations.
Take a look at the attached PDF, which is a page from my book. 

Be very careful because even the slightest reverse pressure (1-2 BAR) through the membranes will damage the membranes and cause them to be ineffective. By reverse pressure, I mean water flowing backwards from the product water output back into the membrane tubes. Unfortunately some people refer to the process of freshwater flushing as "backwashing." It is not. Freshwater flushing flushes the entire saltwater pathway and only the outside of the membranes.

I hope this helps.
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019, 7:15 PM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas




<Dessalator Membrane Orientation and  HP hose connections.pdf>


Alan Grayson
 

Here’s what I have found.
I installed a bypass hose on the product water so I could divert the water before it went into the tank.
I removed the wires off the pressure sensor and everything came back to life. I ran it till the green “good water light came on then rotated the pressure knob until indicator was just in the green. Product water flowed. I tested the water every 3-4 mins and quality slowly improved. After about 15 mins it was down around 315 on my TDS meter so diverted it into the tank. We ran for 45 mins with no problem while keeping a good eye on the pressure gauge. We have run it 4 times since then and the only issue I have had is around the hour mark it will suddenly shut off and it is always when we are not watching, hopefully I will catch it one time.
I assume I should get 60 liters of product water per hour?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>
Sent: Sunday, 24 March 2019 1:44:05 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
One more thought, having lost much hair getting my water maker to work after new membranes:

Have you sampled and tested the “fresh” water output just before the red light comes on? If it is too salty, the switch will trip and shut it down. I had this problem because of incorrectly installed O-rings with the membrane. I am assuming new O-rings were installed with the new membranes?

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida



On Mar 24, 2019, at 9:36 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Some random observations:
  1. The pressure knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise when flushing.
  2. It is possible that you have some sort of failure with the 24VDC bypass solenoid
  3. You should not have any waterflow showing in the glass waterflow indicator when flushing with freshwater.  I think it is possible that something is causing freshwater to pass through the tube and V shaped Brine seals to the product water pathway. The possible causes could be damaged V shaped Brine seals, something wrong in the assembly of the membranes, tubes and end caps, or possibly something wrong with the bypass solenoid. 
  4. The most common "Red Light" shutdown is because the high pressure sensor senses too high pressure. This is commonly caused by a defective pressure gauge. In other words, the actual pressure is higher than 50 bar and the sensor shuts the system down. I was supporting a client yesterday with this defective pressure gauge issue. I had him turn the pressure valve to about 1/2" short of the green. His system did not shut down and began making about 60 liters per hour.
  5. Flow indication when the pressure valve is completely turned anticlockwise and flushing with freshwater may be an indication of incorrect orientation of the tube end caps causing the shaped brine seal to be ineffective i.e. oriented the wrong way. It might also be caused by the hoses connected in reversed locations.
Take a look at the attached PDF, which is a page from my book. 

Be very careful because even the slightest reverse pressure (1-2 BAR) through the membranes will damage the membranes and cause them to be ineffective. By reverse pressure, I mean water flowing backwards from the product water output back into the membrane tubes. Unfortunately some people refer to the process of freshwater flushing as "backwashing." It is not. Freshwater flushing flushes the entire saltwater pathway and only the outside of the membranes.

I hope this helps.
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019, 7:15 PM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas




<Dessalator Membrane Orientation and  HP hose connections.pdf>


 

Alan,

Dessalator.com has the pressure switch for 156.26€ without VAT. Part number 100027.

image.png

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Thu, Mar 28, 2019 at 5:39 AM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Here’s what I have found.
I installed a bypass hose on the product water so I could divert the water before it went into the tank.
I removed the wires off the pressure sensor and everything came back to life. I ran it till the green “good water light came on then rotated the pressure knob until indicator was just in the green. Product water flowed. I tested the water every 3-4 mins and quality slowly improved. After about 15 mins it was down around 315 on my TDS meter so diverted it into the tank. We ran for 45 mins with no problem while keeping a good eye on the pressure gauge. We have run it 4 times since then and the only issue I have had is around the hour mark it will suddenly shut off and it is always when we are not watching, hopefully I will catch it one time.
I assume I should get 60 liters of product water per hour?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...>
Sent: Sunday, 24 March 2019 1:44:05 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
One more thought, having lost much hair getting my water maker to work after new membranes:

Have you sampled and tested the “fresh” water output just before the red light comes on? If it is too salty, the switch will trip and shut it down. I had this problem because of incorrectly installed O-rings with the membrane. I am assuming new O-rings were installed with the new membranes?

Tom Peacock
Aletes SM 240
St Augustine, Florida



On Mar 24, 2019, at 9:36 AM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Alan,

Some random observations:
  1. The pressure knob should be turned all the way anticlockwise when flushing.
  2. It is possible that you have some sort of failure with the 24VDC bypass solenoid
  3. You should not have any waterflow showing in the glass waterflow indicator when flushing with freshwater.  I think it is possible that something is causing freshwater to pass through the tube and V shaped Brine seals to the product water pathway. The possible causes could be damaged V shaped Brine seals, something wrong in the assembly of the membranes, tubes and end caps, or possibly something wrong with the bypass solenoid. 
  4. The most common "Red Light" shutdown is because the high pressure sensor senses too high pressure. This is commonly caused by a defective pressure gauge. In other words, the actual pressure is higher than 50 bar and the sensor shuts the system down. I was supporting a client yesterday with this defective pressure gauge issue. I had him turn the pressure valve to about 1/2" short of the green. His system did not shut down and began making about 60 liters per hour.
  5. Flow indication when the pressure valve is completely turned anticlockwise and flushing with freshwater may be an indication of incorrect orientation of the tube end caps causing the shaped brine seal to be ineffective i.e. oriented the wrong way. It might also be caused by the hoses connected in reversed locations.
Take a look at the attached PDF, which is a page from my book. 

Be very careful because even the slightest reverse pressure (1-2 BAR) through the membranes will damage the membranes and cause them to be ineffective. By reverse pressure, I mean water flowing backwards from the product water output back into the membrane tubes. Unfortunately some people refer to the process of freshwater flushing as "backwashing." It is not. Freshwater flushing flushes the entire saltwater pathway and only the outside of the membranes.

I hope this helps.
Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Sat, Mar 23, 2019, 7:15 PM Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:
Hi Eric, yes I removed both hoses from the membranes and I got water out.
We turned the knob increasing the pressure slowly. We were just in the green and we had product water start to flow, however we had looked away from the gauge when everything stopped and the warning light came on. We can fresh water flush and water flows thru and we have 10 liters  per hour on the flow meter.
Regards
Alan
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Sent: Saturday, 23 March 2019 11:46:39 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 

HI,

If I understand you correctly you disconnected both hoses from the membranes and the unit still went to the red alarm position. I assume you had no low pressure showing on the gauge, is that correct?

Or do you have low pressure in the green but the alarm light is on .

With the hoses disconnected from the membranes did water come out of either hose?

 

I went through the entire system last system with a problem  it even stumped  the USA Desalator rep.

I do have the 160, however, I might be able to help if you would reply.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan Grayson
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 7:21 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light

 

Hi All, I started my water maker for the first time and I have a problem.
i put new membranes in and flushed it with fresh water for about 15 mins. I ran sea water thru it for about 5mins then started to slowly increase the pressure while checking for leaks. Once the needle was in the green it started producing product water but after about 1 min the warning light came on and now nothing runs. I was using the 24v side. I released the pressure knob and even unhooked the pressure lines then tried again. The red warning light came straight on. I reset the 24V breaker in the engine bay and checked the 2 fuses in the control box in the lazarette. I then tried the 220v side and had the same result.
does anyone have any ideas?
Regards
Alan Grayson
SV Ora Pai, SM 406
Cat Cay Bahamas




<Dessalator Membrane Orientation and  HP hose connections.pdf>


Gary Silver
 

Hi Alan:

If I understand your trouble shooting process, when you take the high pressure switch out of the circuit by disconnecting the wires to that switch, the unit will run for about one hour, making good quality water (as measured using a hand held TDS meter) but then will shut down and gives a red light at the control panel.  Is that correct?  

I want to confirm that when the shut down occurs it isn't due to a circuit breaker opening.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335


Alan Grayson
 

Hi Gary, when it shuts down it is definitely not a breaker and to be honest I did not notice any lights at all when it shut down. I noticed on the pressure gauge that the pressure gauge dropped off right after it shut down. I released the pressure knob all the way then started it up again and all went well till we shut it down. I imagine with the wiring off the back of the pressure sensor the red light would not come on
Regards
Alan Grayson
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...>
Sent: Thursday, 28 March 2019 2:01:22 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
Hi Alan:

If I understand your trouble shooting process, when you take the high pressure switch out of the circuit by disconnecting the wires to that switch, the unit will run for about one hour, making good quality water (as measured using a hand held TDS meter) but then will shut down and gives a red light at the control panel.  Is that correct?  

I want to confirm that when the shut down occurs it isn't due to a circuit breaker opening.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335


Ian Townsend
 

Alan, this might sound a bit off the wall but thought I'd share our experience. We have an older 40/50 L/hr DC-only Dessalator. We disconnected the water quality sensor wires sometime ago and now rely just on a hand held TDS meter.

Anytime we have had a shutdown problem (about three times in the last two years) it was caused by a loose fuse holder on the circuit board. As you might expect, I originally thought it was a blown fuse. But when I checked for this, there was no fuse issue but I did notice that the holder was quite loose. So I simply squeezed it, put the fuse back in and voila, it ran like a charm until the next time six months later.


Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
Exumas, Bahamas

On Mar 28, 2019, at 3:49 PM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi Gary, when it shuts down it is definitely not a breaker and to be honest I did not notice any lights at all when it shut down. I noticed on the pressure gauge that the pressure gauge dropped off right after it shut down. I released the pressure knob all the way then started it up again and all went well till we shut it down. I imagine with the wiring off the back of the pressure sensor the red light would not come on
Regards
Alan Grayson
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...>
Sent: Thursday, 28 March 2019 2:01:22 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
Hi Alan:

If I understand your trouble shooting process, when you take the high pressure switch out of the circuit by disconnecting the wires to that switch, the unit will run for about one hour, making good quality water (as measured using a hand held TDS meter) but then will shut down and gives a red light at the control panel.  Is that correct?  

I want to confirm that when the shut down occurs it isn't due to a circuit breaker opening.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335


Alan Grayson
 

Thanks Ian, I did notice one of the fuses was a bit loose but not loose enough to worry me so I might go back and tweak it. Thanks
Alan Grayson
Great HBR Cay, Berry islands
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...>
Sent: Friday, 29 March 2019 12:11:20 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
Alan, this might sound a bit off the wall but thought I'd share our experience. We have an older 40/50 L/hr DC-only Dessalator. We disconnected the water quality sensor wires sometime ago and now rely just on a hand held TDS meter.

Anytime we have had a shutdown problem (about three times in the last two years) it was caused by a loose fuse holder on the circuit board. As you might expect, I originally thought it was a blown fuse. But when I checked for this, there was no fuse issue but I did notice that the holder was quite loose. So I simply squeezed it, put the fuse back in and voila, it ran like a charm until the next time six months later.


Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
Exumas, Bahamas

On Mar 28, 2019, at 3:49 PM, Alan Grayson <bazgrayson@...> wrote:

Hi Gary, when it shuts down it is definitely not a breaker and to be honest I did not notice any lights at all when it shut down. I noticed on the pressure gauge that the pressure gauge dropped off right after it shut down. I released the pressure knob all the way then started it up again and all went well till we shut it down. I imagine with the wiring off the back of the pressure sensor the red light would not come on
Regards
Alan Grayson
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...>
Sent: Thursday, 28 March 2019 2:01:22 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Dessalator duo 60 warning light
 
Hi Alan:

If I understand your trouble shooting process, when you take the high pressure switch out of the circuit by disconnecting the wires to that switch, the unit will run for about one hour, making good quality water (as measured using a hand held TDS meter) but then will shut down and gives a red light at the control panel.  Is that correct?  

I want to confirm that when the shut down occurs it isn't due to a circuit breaker opening.  Correct?

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona 
Amel SM 2000 #335