Topics

Genoa sheet cars removal

smiles bernard
 

Hi there

My Genoa car pin lifting wheel broke yesterday so the removal of the sheet cars has now become a must do rather than a
‘nice to do’ service job

Some people have suggested to undo the fwd stanchion base and push it aside

Just to confirm - my stanchion base is bolted through the toe rail and has metal cheeks each side of that toe rail so pushing it amid ships is not an option

Those who have had success with this - did you push the stanchion fwd? Does this gain enough clearance?
It looks like it would be hard to push the stanchion fwd but perhaps it’s just a brute force thing and hope it goes back afterwards?


Many thanks in advance

Miles

Maramu 162


I’ve looked again at the stanchion based


Sent from my iPhone

Gerhard Mueller
 

It is very easy to get the pin out once the wheel is broken.
When you got a new wheel press the pin down into the some smaller whole of the new wheel.


--
Gerhard Mueller
Amel Sharki #60
Currently Kalamata, Greece

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Miles,
on the SM there is a one sided base so it is easy to push it inwards once the screws are out.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 29 March 2019 at 23:39 "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:



Hi there
My Genoa car pin lifting wheel broke yesterday so the removal of the sheet cars has now become a must do rather than a
‘nice to do’ service job

Some people have suggested to undo the fwd stanchion base and push it aside

Just to confirm - my stanchion base is bolted through the toe rail and has metal cheeks each side of that toe rail so pushing it amid ships is not an option

Those who have had success with this - did you push the stanchion fwd? Does this gain enough clearance?
It looks like it would be hard to push the stanchion fwd but perhaps it’s just a brute force thing and hope it goes back afterwards?


Many thanks in advance

Miles

Maramu 162


I’ve looked again at the stanchion based


Sent from my iPhone


amel46met
 

Hi Miles I have had my railings off twice unscrew the through bolts at the base of the stanchion forward end of track , lift up and outboard . my old Maramu did not have adjustable sheet cars I put new ones on , turning blocks and cleats very easy job Tom Deasy Amel Maramu number 125-1983

On Mar 29, 2019, at 1:16 PM, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi Miles,
on the SM there is a one sided base so it is easy to push it inwards once the screws are out.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 29 March 2019 at 23:39 "smiles bernard via Groups.Io" <smilesbernard=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:



Hi there
My Genoa car pin lifting wheel broke yesterday so the removal of the sheet cars has now become a must do rather than a
‘nice to do’ service job

Some people have suggested to undo the fwd stanchion base and push it aside

Just to confirm - my stanchion base is bolted through the toe rail and has metal cheeks each side of that toe rail so pushing it amid ships is not an option

Those who have had success with this - did you push the stanchion fwd? Does this gain enough clearance?
It looks like it would be hard to push the stanchion fwd but perhaps it’s just a brute force thing and hope it goes back afterwards?


Many thanks in advance

Miles

Maramu 162


I’ve looked again at the stanchion based


Sent from my iPhone



smiles bernard
 

Thanks so much for he really useful responses 
Tom - did you just unbolt the single stanchion at the fwd end of the Genoa track ? And managed to move it first forward then outboard once the lower side flanges were clear of the toe rail?
if so I’ll try this first and will try to replace the cars completely  🤞
I will anyhow also fix my current cars as I need them now and good to have them in working order too. 

Gerhard - it sounds like you just used a ‘push fit’ idea. So the Center hole on the new wheel was a tight fit to the 10mm pin. Then tap with a small hammer into place?

I might try this or ask for a slight shoulder on the pin - as per my sketch. So the lower half of the 10mm is just very slightly thinner than the top half. Say 9.5mm OD.
Combined with a stainless washer/wheel with a 
Center whole of the same diameter (9.5mm) of the smaller section of the pin

the wheel would ‘push fit ‘ onto the lower
9.5mm pin section and be prevented from raising higher by the 10mm shoulder 

the spring would sit above the wheel/washer as always. 

It might just work!?

many thanks to all for the ideas and help on this 👍

miles


smiles bernard
 

Hi Tom
What make of sheet cars / turning blocks etc did you use please ?
I am struggling to understand which manufactures would work on my Goiot 32mm track, 5mm thick with 10mm diameter locator pin holes

Any info very gratefully received !
I ‘think’ some Lewmar cars might fit but they come with blocks that only take 12mm lines 



These harken type cars would be perfect but I can’t seem to find out if they do them for 32mm track and also if 5mm thick is ok . . . 

Any thoughts from the group about suitable replacements that have been used would be super helpful


Many thanks 
Miles
Maramu 162


On 29 Mar 2019, at 22:18, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks so much for he really useful responses 
Tom - did you just unbolt the single stanchion at the fwd end of the Genoa track ? And managed to move it first forward then outboard once the lower side flanges were clear of the toe rail?
if so I’ll try this first and will try to replace the cars completely  🤞
I will anyhow also fix my current cars as I need them now and good to have them in working order too. 

Gerhard - it sounds like you just used a ‘push fit’ idea. So the Center hole on the new wheel was a tight fit to the 10mm pin. Then tap with a small hammer into place?

I might try this or ask for a slight shoulder on the pin - as per my sketch. So the lower half of the 10mm is just very slightly thinner than the top half. Say 9.5mm OD.
Combined with a stainless washer/wheel with a 
Center whole of the same diameter (9.5mm) of the smaller section of the pin

the wheel would ‘push fit ‘ onto the lower
9.5mm pin section and be prevented from raising higher by the 10mm shoulder 

the spring would sit above the wheel/washer as always. 

It might just work!?

many thanks to all for the ideas and help on this 👍

miles


amel46met
 

Hi Miles I have replaced just about all the blocks with Garhauer brand however they don’t seem to work so well on the jib track12 mm. maybe contacting them directly would be a solution I thought about using goit
Tom S/Y Aphrodite Maramu 
#125 St Bart’s


On Mar 30, 2019, at 11:18 AM, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Hi Tom
What make of sheet cars / turning blocks etc did you use please ?
I am struggling to understand which manufactures would work on my Goiot 32mm track, 5mm thick with 10mm diameter locator pin holes

Any info very gratefully received !
I ‘think’ some Lewmar cars might fit but they come with blocks that only take 12mm lines 



These harken type cars would be perfect but I can’t seem to find out if they do them for 32mm track and also if 5mm thick is ok . . . 

Any thoughts from the group about suitable replacements that have been used would be super helpful


Many thanks 
Miles
Maramu 162


On 29 Mar 2019, at 22:18, smiles bernard via Groups.Io <smilesbernard@...> wrote:

Thanks so much for he really useful responses 
Tom - did you just unbolt the single stanchion at the fwd end of the Genoa track ? And managed to move it first forward then outboard once the lower side flanges were clear of the toe rail?
if so I’ll try this first and will try to replace the cars completely  🤞
I will anyhow also fix my current cars as I need them now and good to have them in working order too. 

Gerhard - it sounds like you just used a ‘push fit’ idea. So the Center hole on the new wheel was a tight fit to the 10mm pin. Then tap with a small hammer into place?

I might try this or ask for a slight shoulder on the pin - as per my sketch. So the lower half of the 10mm is just very slightly thinner than the top half. Say 9.5mm OD.
Combined with a stainless washer/wheel with a 
Center whole of the same diameter (9.5mm) of the smaller section of the pin

the wheel would ‘push fit ‘ onto the lower
9.5mm pin section and be prevented from raising higher by the 10mm shoulder 

the spring would sit above the wheel/washer as always. 

It might just work!?

many thanks to all for the ideas and help on this 👍

miles