Copper earthing/bonding strap broken in bilge on Amel 54
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I have a problem with my keel grounding strap. Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated.
After cleaning out my bilge I saw the earthing strap was broken at the bottom. Rudi (Amel 54 "Wasabi") who is also at Marina di Ragusa has the same problem on his 54. I can see the keel bolt with a nut holding whats left of the strap where it attaches to the keel. I contacted Amel Hyeres and they do not have a replacement for this copper strap. Can anyone advise what would be the best and simplest way to go about reconnecting this grounding strap. I can not reach the nut on top of the keel bolt to take off the top nut. I can make out that their is a nut underneath which is holding the keel bolt firmly. My thought is should I get copper strip or use a heavy gauge copper wire? Is it possible to get a tool to reach the keel bolt to take off the nut? The broken strap is still in water at the bottom of the bilge, would this work to make the grounding, and then I would not need to replace the strap? (This is probably a very bad idea, but tell me why as we need to know) If anyone can advise me and Rudi as to how to reconnect our broken grounding straps we still have a few weeks before leaving here. Thank's Barry and Penelope Connor "Lady Penelope II" Amel 54. #17 Marina di Ragusa. Sicily |
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Hi Barry,
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You will need to make up a long extender to a 32mm socket (I think). Just buy some mild steel rectangular tube and get a welder to put a T bar at the top and shape the bottom to fit the socket, such that it comes up to where you can put a bit of force on it. Then you can undo the nut. I suggest you get an aqua-vac to suck out all the water at the bottom of the bilge first. Then either buy a copper strip or use a piece of say 28mm copper pipe and hammer it flat and drill a hole in it it to fit over the keel bolt stub. There you have your new copper bonding strip. At the top end make sure you cut off the old wire an inch or two and put new terminals that you can bolt to the strip. Nick Amelia AML 54-019
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Luckily there is a YouTube video from Mother Ship Adrift on exactly this: https://youtu.be/NYPxUt55tjk Denise s/v CARA Chesapeake Bay |
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Thank you.
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Problem no more, now a clear way forward. The video does show how to go about it. I will start to assemble the bits and let you know how we get on. Best Regards Barry AMEL 54. #17 I will never regret buying an AMEL and being able to access this forum. On Apr 2, 2019, at 17:46, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
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Barry,
There is also a folder in the photos section: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/album?id=84439 -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA |
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Rick Grimes
You have lots of help on this one. But I’ll offer up this (used on my ASM2K): While in Panama, I purchased a 1/4th inch thick copper bar, bent it into shape and installed it to replace my paper thin copper strap (which, like yours, had worn out and was detached.) You will need to measure it out carefully and have the tools to bend it and to drill the right size hole to fit the bolt. Maybe over done but it will last a lot longer. I used duct tape to keep the nut in place when I put it back on. Good luck!
   -- Rick & Linda Grimes S/V Rascal 2003 ASM2K #404 |
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Hi Rick, Thank's for that info. When I go tomorrow I will be looking for something stronger than a thin strap. Maybe get the pipe and just flatten it with a solid hammer and bend it to shape, no need to cut it in half. Best Regards Barry, "Lady Penelope II" Amel 54. #17
On Tuesday, April 2, 2019, 1:48:41 PM EDT, Rick Grimes <rickgrimes1@...> wrote:
You have lots of help on this one. But I’ll offer up this (used on my ASM2K): While in Panama, I purchased a 1/4th inch thick copper bar, bent it into shape and installed it to replace my paper thin copper strap (which, like yours, had worn out and was detached.) You will need to measure it out carefully and have the tools to bend it and to drill the right size hole to fit the bolt. Maybe over done but it will last a lot longer. I used duct tape to keep the nut in place when I put it back on. Good luck! -- Rick & Linda Grimes S/V Rascal 2003 ASM2K #404 |
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What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video. I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job. 1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide. 2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air. 3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water. 4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly. 5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step. 6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side. 7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry 8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap.  9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper. 10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket. 11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.   On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
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Hi AMEL Gang,
Thanks a lot for all your great input and Barry to bring the topic to the Forum. Therefore a lot of cleaning work on WASABI will be a head of us. I suppose the Bilge was never emptied to the ground the last ten years. So some treasure of the bilge may come up tomorrow ;-) Best regards Ruedi WASABI AMEL 54 #55 |
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Rainer Huthmacher <thelastoneever@...>
Very impressive Bill, once more it shows that you are the leading authority about Amels...
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On 2 Apr 2019, at 20:59, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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amel46met
Sent from my iPhone Bill do you have information for the bonding strap on a 1983 Maramu thanks Tom
Aphrodite #123 Saint Bart’s |
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Tom, I do not, but I hope someone with a Maramu and this knowledge will answer. On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 4:42 PM amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:
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James Alton
Tom,
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I also need to replace the bonding strap on my Maramu and took Bill’s advice to purchase some 1/8” x 2” copper. I think that using the thicker copper is a good idea and should make the strap less vulnerable to damage from bilge cleaning and corrosion. Since I am not at my boat currently I scaled the drawing for the Maramu and determined that the copper strap length should be around 55-60” so I purchased a 5’ pc. I will post the exact measurements once I have done this job on Sueno. Perhaps someone else that has done this job on a Maramu can confirm the required strap length and also the size of the nut on the aft keel bolt holding the strap. Best of luck with your project, James SV Sueno Maramu #220 On Apr 2, 2019, at 5:42 PM, amel46met <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote: |
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JOHN HAYES
Brilliant Denise Bill and others
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NGA Waka is on the slip so brought copper bar and following your contributions Any one replaced the HF radio earth sitting under the hills bit abaft of the mizzenmast on a Santorin? Ours is pretty pitted and could usefully be replaced Any thoughts gratefully received Best John Hayes hull 41 On 3/04/2019, at 4:46 AM, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
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eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
I also used this method however I used a thicker and wider strap. I also used a torch with solder and bolts to fasten the top of the old bonding strap to my new one. Having some ratchet wrench extensions is a good thing to have on board without having to fabricate a T handle. Be sure to tape the extensions together just in case. If you happen to be in the USA you can but almost any flat copper strap or plate from McMaster Carr. This is an incredible website they have everything mechanical you need. Their paper catalog is over 3000 pages. Check it out. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
What he does in the video works, but there is too much to say about what is wrong with this video.
I have 3 pages in my Amel book devoted to this job, but if you follow these steps you will do a good job.
1. Fabricate the replacement Bonding Strap with about 1/8" thick copper stock about 2" wide. 2. Empty as much water as possible using the manual bilge pump until it sucks air. 3. Place a towel over the C-Drive and engine angle iron frame to protect it from water. 4. Remove the two wires to the Gray Water Float Switch Assembly. 5. Pull the gray colored Float Switch Assembly toward aft out of its clamps and up placing the wet end in a bucket and handing it to crew on deck. Have crew clean it & continue next step. 6. Pull each of the pump hoses up one at a time while using degreaser/cleaner to clean each as you pull it out. Then place the end of the hose pointed up and the hose to the side. 7. Using a wet/vacuum, suck the remaining water & sludge from the bottom, until totally dry 8. Remove the 30mm stainless steel nut on the stainless steel keel stud with a 30mm socket connected to extensions totaling 3 feet or 1 meter. You will need a Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool (pictured) to pick up the nut and pieces of Bonding Strap. 9. Remove the pieces of old Bonding Strap, There is also a small "flat head" machine screw holding the Bonding Strap against the forward port side of the bilge sump (I did not replace it). At the top of the old Bonding Strap, cut the loose strap end, leaving only the bundle of soldered wires, wrapped with copper. 10. Install the new Bonding Strap. PEARL: Use masking tape around the nut to hold it in the socket. 11. Locate the soldered bundle of about 12 wires and drill a 9mm hole through the bundle and bolt it to the top of the new Bonding Strap, using an 8mm brass or bronze bolt/nut to secure it in place.
On Tue, Apr 2, 2019 at 10:46 AM Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
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Rainer Huthmacher <thelastoneever@...>
Does anyone know about a keel bonding strap on a Sharki? I assume it should be the same as on a Maramu or Mango...
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Fair winds Rainer On 3 Apr 2019, at 03:05, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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JOHN HAYES
No sweat managed with some difficulty to find the inside nuts which hold the earth plate on. The old one munted but found a replacement which should arrive in 24 hours
On the copper bar I thought the connection might be better to drill and tap a small hole it the top of the nut and screw the bar onto it rather than putting under the keel boat nut. . Access looks a bit easier without an engine. Putting a D250 volvo in which is identical to the prima but has the advantage of a gear not a cam driven water. Pump and a timing chain not a rubber band……..and it comes with a 5 year warranty.
Best
John SN 41
From: John Hayes <johnhayes862@...>
Brilliant Denise Bill and others
NGA Waka is on the slip so brought copper bar and following your contributions
Any one replaced the HF radio earth sitting under the hills bit abaft of the mizzenmast on a Santorin? Ours is pretty pitted and could usefully be replaced
Any thoughts gratefully received
Best John Hayes hull 41
On 3/04/2019, at 4:46 AM, Denise McGovern <Mcgovern.denise@...> wrote:
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Re: Bonding Earthing Connection to Keel. We have completed the re-attachment of the earth bonding keel strap to Amel 54 "Lady Penelope II" and Amel 54 "Wasabi" here at Marina di Ragusa. Rudi and I used copper earthing wire that you would find in building construction. We put lug connectors on each end and covered the copper wire with heat shrink rubber/pvc tube, then sealed both ends with rubber/pvc liquid wire seal. The reason that we sealed the copper wire was we saw how the copper strap had just been corroded away by the bilge water. The sealing of the complete length of the copper wire was to make sure that no moisture/bilge water got into the copper wire from either end. We were able to attach the bottom of the copper wire to the keel bolt using a copper earth pole lug which we attached using a stainless steel bolt and nut with lock tight. The 30mm nut firmly secured this to the keel bolt. The earth bonding wires from the boat connected at the top of the bilge sump to the original copper strap with copper sheet was drilled and the copper wire from the keel was attached using a stainless steel bolt and nut. The photos below show how we unscrewed the keel bolt nut with an extended 30mm socket with several extensions firmly bound together with Gorilla tape. We used 2 sided Gorilla tape inside the socket to ensure that the nut stayed inside the socket when unscrewed. I hope that all can follow this and understand the photos. Please ask if you have any queries. I do hope that we don't get told that we have done this completely wrong. Best Regards Barry and Penny "Lady Penelope II" Rudi and Sabina. "Wasabi" Amel 54's Marina di Ragusa Sicily |
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5 years ago we replaced the broken copper strap on Elyse using Bills diagram as a guide, but from 1/4" X 2" solid copper.
Followed the instructions with socket and extensions to get the old strap out. Drilled and threaded holes for all the bonding wires. Installed the bonding strap to the keel bolt. Stripped the bonding wires back to bare copper, new lugs and bolted them to the copper strap. 5 years on looks as good as new. AND no bonding issues. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437 |
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