Topics

Marco Pump stoppage


Duane Siegfri
 

I have a Marco UP3E pump that is not working and would love some advice on any other things to check.

Symptons:
The pump stopped working while it was being used (wife was in the shower!)
When I turn the breaker off, then on, all the lights start blinking (blue, red and green), then only the green/yellow light stays on (steady, not blinking).  I'm thinking it's yellow, but it could be green.
There is plenty of water in the tank.

I have checked:
1. That there is no foreign matter between the gears or in the gearcase.
2.  That the pump has proper DC voltage available.
3.  That there is no air blockage by easing the bleed screw.

The manual states that the brushes have a life of 1,000 hours.  The pump is about 1.5 years old, so we would have to run it about 2 hours a day.  That seems unlikely but the brushes seem to be the most logical thing to have failed.  The manual states:

When the LED is green and blinking it means that the pump is in "stand by" mode at the maximum preset pressure waiting for water demand.  When the LED is green and steady, the pump is increasing the flow in order to reach the preset pressure and meet the demand flow rate.  When the LED is yellow and steady, the pump has reached the pre-set pressure and is steadying the flow rate to maintain a constant pressure on the pipe line.  A short flickering of the red LED is showing that the pump is gradually decreasing the flow in order to reduce the pressure to the pre-set value.  I


tony wells
 

Hi Duane

I had a similar situation with my Marco. The following is the advice from Marco’s engineer. The scenario / process was omitted from my manual in error and has now been included by Marco. 

====

To address the problem of the automated start of the pump we have to understand in which case we are in, now: if you turn off the pump power supply at the boat panel, wait a few seconds and then turn on the power again, what happens? There should be only two cases:

  1. The pump starts immediately, on the pump’s panel the “run” led turns on steady, as long as the power led, and it tries to prime
  2. The pump does not start, the power led turns on (alone), everything is still.

 

If we are in case 1, it means that the pump is set to turn on automatically after a power or panel reset.

If we are in case 2, it means that the pump waits for user input after a power or panel reset.

 

On a boat, you usually want to be in “case 1”, therefore, if the pump does not start automatically after a reset, you need to:

  1. Turn off the pump power supply at the boat panel
  2. While pressing the reset button, turn the power on at the boat panel
  3. Wait until the red light flashes: it means the the “automated start mode” has beentoggled

 

After this, nothing else is needed: the pump should start automatically


=====

I’m not sure you have the same software / setup but assuming you do then I trust this will work. 

If there is air in the system then the pump may have a small bleed screw (Allen key - tighten it again VERY gently when the pump starts drawing water)

Good luck. I have the Marco engineers private mobile if you still need it. 

Tony
Amel 54, Balthazar 
Levkas, Greece



On 19 Apr 2019, at 22:14, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

I have a Marco UP3E pump that is not working and would love some advice on any other things to check.

Symptons:
The pump stopped working while it was being used (wife was in the shower!)
When I turn the breaker off, then on, all the lights start blinking (blue, red and green), then only the green/yellow light stays on (steady, not blinking).  I'm thinking it's yellow, but it could be green.
There is plenty of water in the tank.

I have checked:
1. That there is no foreign matter between the gears or in the gearcase.
2.  That the pump has proper DC voltage available.
3.  That there is no air blockage by easing the bleed screw.

The manual states that the brushes have a life of 1,000 hours.  The pump is about 1.5 years old, so we would have to run it about 2 hours a day.  That seems unlikely but the brushes seem to be the most logical thing to have failed.  The manual states:

When the LED is green and blinking it means that the pump is in "stand by" mode at the maximum preset pressure waiting for water demand.  When the LED is green and steady, the pump is increasing the flow in order to reach the preset pressure and meet the demand flow rate.  When the LED is yellow and steady, the pump has reached the pre-set pressure and is steadying the flow rate to maintain a constant pressure on the pipe line.  A short flickering of the red LED is showing that the pump is gradually decreasing the flow in order to reduce the pressure to the pre-set value.  I


 

I will post the reset instructions by tomorrow. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019, 4:14 PM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have a Marco UP3E pump that is not working and would love some advice on any other things to check.

Symptons:
The pump stopped working while it was being used (wife was in the shower!)
When I turn the breaker off, then on, all the lights start blinking (blue, red and green), then only the green/yellow light stays on (steady, not blinking).  I'm thinking it's yellow, but it could be green.
There is plenty of water in the tank.

I have checked:
1. That there is no foreign matter between the gears or in the gearcase.
2.  That the pump has proper DC voltage available.
3.  That there is no air blockage by easing the bleed screw.

The manual states that the brushes have a life of 1,000 hours.  The pump is about 1.5 years old, so we would have to run it about 2 hours a day.  That seems unlikely but the brushes seem to be the most logical thing to have failed.  The manual states:

When the LED is green and blinking it means that the pump is in "stand by" mode at the maximum preset pressure waiting for water demand.  When the LED is green and steady, the pump is increasing the flow in order to reach the preset pressure and meet the demand flow rate.  When the LED is yellow and steady, the pump has reached the pre-set pressure and is steadying the flow rate to maintain a constant pressure on the pipe line.  A short flickering of the red LED is showing that the pump is gradually decreasing the flow in order to reduce the pressure to the pre-set value.  I


 

Duane,

If you have the electronic control module (which I strongly recommend to my clients), the following are the instructions you need. If you do not have the electronic control module, I believe you are not turning off the power long enough for a reset. Try turning the power off, opening a tap to bleed most of the pressure, then closing the tap, then turning the power ON. It should go into prime mode, then everything will be OK.

If none of this works for you, contact Marco.

Electronic Control for MARCO Pumps

The following was written by Matteo from MARCO:

 

To address the problem of the automated start of the pump we have to understand in which case we are in, now: if you turn off the pump power supply at the boat panel, wait a few seconds and then turn on the power again, what happens? There should be only two cases:

1.    The pump starts immediately, on the pump’s panel the “run” led turns on steady, as long as the power led, and it tries to prime

2.    The pump does not start, the power led turns on (alone), everything is still.

 

If we are in case 1, it means that the pump is set to turn on automatically after a power or panel reset.

If we are in case 2, it means that the pump waits for user input after a power or panel reset.

 

On a boat, you usually want to be in “case 1”, therefore, if the pump does not start automatically after a reset, you need to:

1.    Turn off the pump power supply at the boat panel

2.    While pressing the reset button, turn the power on at the boat panel

3.    Wait until the red light flashes: it means the “automated start mode” has been toggled.

 

After this, nothing else is needed: the pump should start automatically. Repeating this procedure over and over will continue to toggle between these two modes, but you only want the “case 1” mode!

 

The pump stops after one minute and a half without water, because there’s a risk of warming the gears (and after that, burning the motor), and this helps protect them.

 

The “on/off” button is only needed if the pump starts during the night due to some leakage or pressure fluctuation and/or the absence of an expansion tank that levels out fluctuations… or some appliance that uses a little water every minute or so… It just inhibits temporarily the pump start after a pressure drop. If the run led blinks it means that if there’s a pressure drop, the pump starts. If the run led is off it means that the pump won’t start if the pressure drops, unless you press the on/off button. If the run led is on, it means that the motor is rotating; therefore you should expect water from the taps (if primed correctly).

 

Hope this clears some of the features of the control panel of the pump.

 

Best,

Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St.
Galveston, Texas 77550
832-380-4970



On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 6:25 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I will post the reset instructions by tomorrow. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019, 4:14 PM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have a Marco UP3E pump that is not working and would love some advice on any other things to check.

Symptons:
The pump stopped working while it was being used (wife was in the shower!)
When I turn the breaker off, then on, all the lights start blinking (blue, red and green), then only the green/yellow light stays on (steady, not blinking).  I'm thinking it's yellow, but it could be green.
There is plenty of water in the tank.

I have checked:
1. That there is no foreign matter between the gears or in the gearcase.
2.  That the pump has proper DC voltage available.
3.  That there is no air blockage by easing the bleed screw.

The manual states that the brushes have a life of 1,000 hours.  The pump is about 1.5 years old, so we would have to run it about 2 hours a day.  That seems unlikely but the brushes seem to be the most logical thing to have failed.  The manual states:

When the LED is green and blinking it means that the pump is in "stand by" mode at the maximum preset pressure waiting for water demand.  When the LED is green and steady, the pump is increasing the flow in order to reach the preset pressure and meet the demand flow rate.  When the LED is yellow and steady, the pump has reached the pre-set pressure and is steadying the flow rate to maintain a constant pressure on the pipe line.  A short flickering of the red LED is showing that the pump is gradually decreasing the flow in order to reduce the pressure to the pre-set value.  I


Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks for the replies to Bill and Tony.  Unfortunately my pump does not have a reset button...I don't see on in the manual either.  Maybe the larger ones have one.

I'm going to check for blockages in the supply piping, but there was nothing in the gears.

Duane


 

Duane,

The reset button is only on the electronic control module. Go back and read my email.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970


On Fri, Apr 19, 2019, 7:48 PM Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Thanks for the replies to Bill and Tony.  Unfortunately my pump does not have a reset button...I don't see on in the manual either.  Maybe the larger ones have one.

I'm going to check for blockages in the supply piping, but there was nothing in the gears.

Duane


Duane Siegfri
 

Ok, got it.

Duane


Duane Siegfri
 

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.


Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Duane,

I went through the same process 2 years ago.  My chosen replacement pump is a Marco 12E.

It is more compact than the original and as it is a constant pressure pump, I did not bother with an accumulator tank.  There is a very short delay for the pump to start up but this is fully acceptable to us.  

You may fit a smaller capacity/pressure Marco.  Some folks have fitted the 3 E model.

Best of luck.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, in New Zealand leaving soon for Fiji.



On 22 Apr 2019, at 04:55, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk@...> wrote:

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.


Mark Erdos
 

Duane,

 

Glad you have water pumping again.

 

Keep in mind that PR is a part of the USPS and you can Express Mail or Priority Mail (2-3 days) to the island from most USA online chandleries at regular postal rates. Also, the West Marine on PR adds a surcharge to their already ridiculously high prices. Better to buy from the mainland and pay for shipping.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - San Blas Islands, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2019 12:56 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Marco Pump stoppage

 

Follow up:

After checking for a blockage, lack of voltage, or lack of water, the manual says the only other thing to check is the motor brushes. 

I took the back cover off and one motor brushholder and brush wire were badly corroded.  The wire fell apart as I touched it.  I replaced the wire with some copper stranded wire that I jammed into a hole I drilled in the carbon brush and then glued in place (not the best electrical connection, but the carbon block wouldn't accept solder).  I could not unsolder the wire from the circuit board (not enough heat) so I filed it flat and drilled it out hoping not to hit the conductor on the circuit board. Then I soldered the new wire to the circuit board.  When I reinstalled, it still didn't work, but gave a different error light.  We neglected to turn off the breaker and seeing it the next morning I turned it off, then thought “what the heck” and turned the breaker back on...it started running!  It must require going through a start-up several times before it resets.  I opened the bleed screw to permit the air to expell as it primed and eureka!  It is pumping water again!

This is probably a temporary repair, so we'll try to source a new pump in Puerto Rico.