Now locker floor replacement


Mike Ondra
 

In the midst of Bow locker floor replacement. See attached photos. Plywood bottom was rotting and delaminating resulting in failure of the port locker. It was cut out to within 3 inches of the perimeter. Strategy is replacement plywood to be laid on top of the remaining flange and glassed in. Using half-inch plywood as original but with with some rib reinforcing underneath to allow enough structural support for opening access. Glassing both sides.
House pipe cut off below top and above bottom. Plan is to slide a PVC pipe over top of the existing house pipe flanges and glass it in for structural integrity. At least that’s the plan so far.
Mike
Aletes SM#240


Thomas Kleman
 

Hey mike- cool pics....question for you. Are all 4 of your windlass bolts accessible or is the back starboard bolt glassed over ? Wondering why not just replace the whole hawse pipe and make your header for it also a lip for the back starboard bolt ?


Gary Silver
 

Hi Mike, Looking good.  Could you provide the ID (inside diameter) of the Amel hawse pipe?

Thanks,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335


Mike Ondra
 

Hi Gary. Here are some pictures of the hawse pipe. With scale. Note how rotted out the steel pipe was.
Mike
Aletes SM#240

On May 19, 2019, at 12:44 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Hi Mike, Looking good.  Could you provide the ID (inside diameter) of the Amel hawse pipe?
image3.jpeg
Thanks,image2.jpeg

Gary S. Silverimage1.jpeg
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335


Mike Ondra
 

Hi Tom. The bolt you’re talking about screws into a steel plate embedded in the fiberglass. That plate is I believe welded to the hawse pipe to transfer load to the hawse pipe.. With the rusting out of the hawse pipe the plate also rusted and broke away the fiberglass encasement. It is highly compromised.

The structural load from the windlass is transferred to the hawse pipe and ultimately resolved down to the Locker floor and then over to the vertical divider between the two bow lockers as the primary structural resistance. Therefore our thought is to utilize an L-shaped steel strap bolted directly to the vertical divider between the bow lockers to receive the windlass bolt and thereby transferred load directly from the bolt to the vertical divider.
image1.jpeg
We do need to remember that the forces on these bolts are limited by the power of the windlass motor. Actual anchoring loads should be directed to the big cleat or with bridle to the port and starboard bow cleats.

Having directed the loads directly to the vertical panel The hawse pipe no longer takes the structural load. Our next step with this is to find a piece of pipe PVC plumbing pipe or PVC conduit that will slip over the stubs of the old hawse pipe that we left behind. I will follow up after doing so.
Mike 
Aletes SM240

On May 18, 2019, at 6:36 PM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Hey mike- cool pics....question for you. Are all 4 of your windlass bolts accessible or is the back starboard bolt glassed over ? Wondering why not just replace the whole hawse pipe and make your header for it also a lip for the back starboard bolt ?


Thomas Kleman
 

My thinking was that the other 3 windlass bolts were secured by large fillets to the floor and supported by the floor joint to the vertical divider. I just created a 4th fillet for the back starboard bolt that also served as a header for my 4 inch Pvc. This piece is secured under the windlass by 7 screws and 5200. It fits inside the 4 inch Pvc and allows access to the back starboard windlass bolt because the bolt goes through the header plate. 


Thomas Kleman
 

This is my fillet/header....note the back starboard windlass bolt. 4 inch Pvc works. Despite the appearance, I used silicone to seal the header to pvc joint and supported the PVC from below with my flange ring .I can remove the PVC easily if it ever needs replacement.


Mike Ondra
 

Nice detail. I’m going to leave the steel stub in the floor. After installing the PVC pipe I’ll glass it in heavily as well. If the steel eventually rots out the PVC and fiberglass should conduct the chain into the locker effectively. Anyway that’s the theory.
Mikeimage1.jpeg
Aletes 


On May 19, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

<IMG_20190312_112250625.jpg>My thinking was that the other 3 windlass bolts were secured by large fillets to the floor and supported by the floor joint to the vertical divider. I just created a 4th fillet for the back starboard bolt that also served as a header for my 4 inch Pvc. This piece is secured under the windlass by 7 screws and 5200. It fits inside the 4 inch Pvc and allows access to the back starboard windlass bolt because the bolt goes through the header plate. 


Thomas Kleman
 

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now. Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now. Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


Mike Ondra
 

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240
image1.jpeg


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.


eric freedman
 

Very nice work,

Congratulations.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Mike Ondra via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 8:14 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Now locker floor replacement

 

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

 

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM240

image1.jpeg


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

 

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

 

Cheers from Fiji.

 

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007

 



On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

 

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.

 


Gerald Bassin
 

Nice job !
On our SM #113 Jetlag, we managed to load up 100 gallons of water on the passage from Curaçao to Grenada due to a blocked drain in the chain locker.... We had a hatch already fitted in the port locker so it was not to hard to get down and cut an acces to the drain hole. Works fine now. We also installed a divider in the chain locker. Seems that the earlier units did not have it installed
Safe sailing
Gerald Bassin 
SV Jetlag


On 21 May 2019, at 02:13, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Aletes locker drain was also blocked. Pushing a fish (wire puller) up the drain pipe from the T in the foreword head bilge broke it loose. Water gushed out along with the mud and sand. Hose pressure through the holes in the anchor locker floor cleaned out the rest. 

Key to this was the access now afforded      through the port bow locker floor now completed. 

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM240
<image1.jpeg>


On May 19, 2019, at 5:51 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hi Gang,

I solved the problem by always using the chain wash (now fresh water on our boat) and at least once a year… doing a pressure wash in the chain well compartment.

Cheers from Fiji.

Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 20 May 2019, at 09:45, Thomas Kleman <lorient422@...> wrote:

Mike- your floor looks great. I know how hard it is to cut and refine that shape. On L'ORIENT my chain locker bilge (under that glassed in perforated grate at the bottom of the chain locker) was hoplessly clogged. I ended up cutting an access port in it so I could vacuum it out periodically.....it drains fine now Wondering if other people have this problem or I just pick muddier places to anchor than most.....the actual outlet underneath there is about 15mm above the bottom and offset.