Topics

Autoprop H6 Tools


Duane Siegfri
 

Gary (s/v Liahona),

Thank you for the advice, I'll take a good look at the lip seal issue you brought up.  Their parts list for the H6 has an "Ecopur Seal", which I take to be the lip seal.

Duane


Paul Stascavage
 

No problem Duane. I hope not to need them for a while.  The tools are going out USPS today. 

All the best

Paul


Duane Siegfri
 

Paul S (Rita Kathryn),

That's very generous of you!   We won't return to Grenada until 9/26, and then it will take a bit to do the work.  It will be as late as the end of October before I would return them, if that's a problem just let me know.  Please put a note in with the tools for the customs people in Grenada that this is a loan of tools from one private party to another with your address for me to return them to.  The shipping address is: Duane Siegfried, 1036 Falcon Crest Court, Staunton, IL 62088.

We hope to run into you again soon!

Thanks again,
Duane


Duane Siegfri
 

Paul,

I'll do that.  I plan to put them in the Files section.

Duane


Duane Siegfri
 

Roque,

Thats fantastic!  Thank you!  Now I can fabricate the tool and take it back to Grenada with me.

Duane


Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:

The removal of the end cap (called "Bearing Cap" in the exploded parts diagrams, item #2) was the most difficult part of the Autoprop overhaul for me.  The two-peg tool I bought from Brunton was totally inadequate (bent within seconds and became useless).  It is my belief that this cap was assembled at the factory with a locking sealant.  At any rate, manufacture a 4 peg tool using the dimensions posted by another member in this thread.  Those dimensions are correct.  The pegs will need to be hardened steel (you can use drill bit shanks).
A SS two pin tool most likely won't work.  When the time comes to remove the bearing cap/end caps, heat the cap with a heat gun (you want to loosen any locktite with heat NOT heat damage the metal), apply your tool tightly (two people with gloves so you don't get burned, one to hold the tool in place and one to apply the torque) and turn in an anti-clockwise direction.  Note that this is most easily accomplished with the prop on the boat so it is held in place as you apply your torque.  My notes are that all threads on the auto prop are right hand threads (clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen) EXCEPT FOR THE THREADS OF THE TAB SCREW aka locking nut (item 4, part number H6 TRI-0221) THAT HAS LEFT HAND THREADS.

I have posted in the photos section a series of photos (search "Autoprop" in the photos section" relative to removing the races, the failed peg spanner etc.  Located there is my photo of using a socket that I ground down to produce the tool for removing the left hand treaded tab screw (called by me the "locking nut"). I did this out of desperation in Antigua and it worked well but took me several hours with a Dremmel tool and hand files.  Unfortunately I didn't make note of the size of the socket I used.    Also, in the files section, there are several rather dis-jointed posts that contain tips related to my experience with this overhaul.  It is all about the tools!!!  

Evidently the Autoprop comes in a model that doesn't have lip seals and has flooded bearings (open to sea-water).  My model has lip seals and the bearings are not flooded.  My failure was caused by the Autoprop recall when the factory failed to overhaul my prop with seals (the bearings then failed within one season).  Once I overhauled it properly it has lasted 10 years. It is still silky smooth with these precautions:
1. I never allow power washing of the Autoprop.  A power washer can easily blow water past the lip seals.   
2. I religiously lube the Autoprop upon haul out each year.  

Good luck with your overhaul and don't hesitate to make/have made your own tools.

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona   Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
On the hard for hurricane season in Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico



Paul Stascavage
 

Duane,

I just did the rebuild a few months ago. Supposedly, King Propulsion will loan you the tools. When I needed them there was a boat show going on somewhere and I couldn’t get a response so I ended up biting the bullet and buying them. A machine shop could make them for at least half the price.

Email me your address and I will ship them to you. You can ship them back to me when you are done. I would suggest having them made by a machine shop while you have them in your possession but not until you have used them. This way you will have some ideas for improvements.

I highly recommend watching the rebuild videos on the YouTube King Propulsion channel.

Even with the tools and using an extension for leverage, I was unable to get the end caps off. I ended up having a machine shop do that for me. Both heat and leverage were needed to get mine off.

The entire job took me much longer than I anticipated. I also found conflicting information regarding torque specifications for putting everything back together. I forget at the moment what I ended up going with but I have an accessible write up that is not accessible at the moment if you want me to look up my notes.

Write me if you have any questions.

Also a huge FYI. In the King Propulsion videos, he attacks the end caps as if they are LH threads in one video and RH in another. They are RH threads.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Exploring City Island, NY


Mark Erdos
 

Duane,

 

Buy an Adjustable Pin Wrench. I’m not sure this would fit but it gives you the idea of what to shop for: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-Piece-7-5-in-Stainless-Steel-Adjustable-Wrench-Set/1000374705

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Vista Mar, Panama

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 1:52 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Autoprop H6 Tools

 

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Paul Osterberg
 

Duane 
During coming winter I have to service my Autoprop as well. Would appreciate if you later post some pictures and eventual problems
Paul on SY Kerpa SM 259 


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Duane,

I had mine made by a local engineer years ago. Photos attached. The pins are some hard material, not mild steel.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean pearl

On 23 July 2019 at 05:51 "Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io" <carlylelk@...> wrote:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Roque
 

Duane 

Regarding the “pin holes”:

Diameter: 5 mm

Depth: 4 mm

Distance between holes ( center): 23.5 mm

The cover is curved (like a dome). 12 mm high

Sorry no info on Tab Screw

I took pictures that might help 

Roque 

Attika A54 117
Santos - Brazil 

Em seg, 22 de jul de 2019 às 14:52, Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io <carlylelk=aol.com@groups.io> escreveu:

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Duane Siegfri
 

I'm preparing to replace the bearings in my Autoprop.  I've got the H6 LH (left hand) Tab Screw model.

You need a "Peg Spanner" to get the round outer covers off, and another "Peg Spanner" to get the Tab Screw off, and a "Nut Spanner" to get the Tab Screw Nut off.  The combined cost of these tools from Brunton is over $370, which is crazy excessive. The boat is in Grenada, and I'm in the midwest. 

There are a variety of "Adjustable Pin Wrenches" on Amazon, but I need the diameter of the "pin" holes in the cover, as well as the diameter of the pins in the Tab Screw.  Does anyone have that info?

The "Nut Spanner" looks like a socket with the perimeter filed down leaving four "legs".  This is the expensive tool at $192.  I don't know that anyone makes something similiar that would work, any suggestions?  I think I saw on this forum that someone had filed down a socket to fit but I can't find that post or file.

Just FYI I made my own "Prop Puller" from a piece of aluminum plate with three holes for the zinc nose cone bolts and a large hole in the center.  Using this aluminum plate with my bearing puller (Harbor Freight $50) does a great job of popping the prop off.  Brunton wants $236 for the same tool.



If I can get this info together I'll post drawings of the tool fabrication in the files section.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477