Topics

Genoa car springs

Alan Leslie
 

I need to replace the springs in one of my Antal genoa cars.
The springs and block are attached to the car by a stainless rod that runs from fwd to aft and is dead ended at the aft end.
There is a split pin through a hole in the rod to prevent the rod from coming out.
I can't turn the rod to get the split pin out...and even if I could I doubt that I could get the rod out.
Has anyone done this before?
Any advice on how to remove that rod ?
Thanks
Alan
Elyse SM437 

Matt Salatino
 

Is it corroded? Stainless Steel in Aluminum?

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 4, 2019, at 8:40 PM, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

I need to replace the springs in one of my Antal genoa cars.
The springs and block are attached to the car by a stainless rod that runs from fwd to aft and is dead ended at the aft end.
There is a split pin through a hole in the rod to prevent the rod from coming out.
I can't turn the rod to get the split pin out...and even if I could I doubt that I could get the rod out.
Has anyone done this before?
Any advice on how to remove that rod ?
Thanks
Alan
Elyse SM437 

Alan Leslie
 

No doubt it is... The usual stainless vs aluminium. 
The issue is that the rod is dead ended so it can't be knocked out....there's nothing to get a grip on to pull it either.
Alan
Elyse SM 437

Matt Salatino
 

A trick an old mechanic taught me:
Mix 50% acetone with 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid. (Keep mixture tightly capped as the acetone evaporates off, quickly, in a few days if not).
Keep the corroded parts soaked in this mixture. May require several applications per day.
Do this for 3 or 4 days. This mixture should penetrate the corrosion and loosen things up enough to remove. If, after this, it’s still frozen, clean up, and apply heat.
This stuff has always worked for me.
Good luck.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 5, 2019, at 2:22 AM, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:

No doubt it is... The usual stainless vs aluminium. 
The issue is that the rod is dead ended so it can't be knocked out....there's nothing to get a grip on to pull it either.
Alan
Elyse SM 437

Patrick McAneny
 

Alan, I replaced my springs a year or so ago. My boat is a few years older than yours,and I had no problem getting the rod out , but I remember it came out differently than I imagined , but was obvious upon inspection.The block is anodized and I remember no corrosion . What I am having a problem with is getting the rod out of the hatches ,so to replace those big springs,they are corroded in place and will not budge .
Good Luck ,
Pat 
SM # 123


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Aug 4, 2019 8:40 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Genoa car springs

I need to replace the springs in one of my Antal genoa cars.
The springs and block are attached to the car by a stainless rod that runs from fwd to aft and is dead ended at the aft end.
There is a split pin through a hole in the rod to prevent the rod from coming out.
I can't turn the rod to get the split pin out...and even if I could I doubt that I could get the rod out.
Has anyone done this before?
Any advice on how to remove that rod ?
Thanks
Alan
Elyse SM437 

Miles
 

I need to replace the springs in my genoa car and your method of getting the bar out is encouraging.   Can you please let me know the size of the spring and were to get it?

Thanks and fair winds,

Miles

Sm 216 Ladybug, Newport Harbor, RI

Alan Leslie
 

The cars are Antal genoa cars 160mm long. I found similar in the Antal catalogue and the local Antal dealer was able to source the springs for that model
I don't know about anodising preventing corrosion, this stainless rod is well and truly stuck...it may have to stay that way.
Cheers
Alan
 SM437

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

I did this in one of my videos called "Booms and Running Rigging!
Changes and what they cost" Not sure if you have the same car or not,
but this is how I did mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_XB5qfptqQ

This is pretty much a step by step.... Some say that you should not
cut the track, but I disagree. If done correctly, it will make it
easy the next time you have to remove the car.

Ken Powers
Aquarius SM2K#262
Currently in Indonesia

On 8/5/19, Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...> wrote:
I need to replace the springs in one of my Antal genoa cars.
The springs and block are attached to the car by a stainless rod that runs
from fwd to aft and is dead ended at the aft end.
There is a split pin through a hole in the rod to prevent the rod from
coming out.
I can't turn the rod to get the split pin out...and even if I could I doubt
that I could get the rod out.
Has anyone done this before?
Any advice on how to remove that rod ?
Thanks
Alan
Elyse SM437



Alan Leslie
 

Thanks Ken
My initial issue is to get the cotter pin out, the rod won't turn 
...I'm going to have to destroy the pin and then try again 
Cheers 
Alan 
ELYSE SM437

Alan Leslie
 

So today I sawed through the cotter pin and removed the remnants...but that rod is firmly stuck. Tried the grip it and hit it technique, nothing
Others have suggested removing the car and soaking it in interesting solutions, or heat, or drilling out the aft end of the car and trying to knock it out.
We'll see, but for the moment it's not going anywhere!
Alan
Elyse 
SM437

heinz@quetzal.berlin
 

I have at the end of the rail about 15 cm on each side cut off. This was the only way for me to remove the Traveler. Then it can be lifted off 

Heinz Quetzal sm2000, 292

Am 08.08.2019 um 10:27 schrieb Alan Leslie <s.v.elyse@...>:

So today I sawed through the cotter pin and removed the remnants...but that rod is firmly stuck. Tried the grip it and hit it technique, nothing
Others have suggested removing the car and soaking it in interesting solutions, or heat, or drilling out the aft end of the car and trying to knock it out.
We'll see, but for the moment it's not going anywhere!
Alan
Elyse 
SM437

Gary Silver
 

Hi Alan:  

A couple of thoughts:

1.  I highly recommend modifying the track so that you can remove the car easily by simply removing one bolt at the aft end of the track.  See my picture below on this, my prior post, and/or as shown in the video link posted above. 
2.  Once the car is removed (so you don't have penetrating oil dousing your gelcoat etc) and you can remove the PVC runners,  patiently apply penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, Mouse Milk or similar) to the recess / counter-bore into which the shaft seats.  Do this for  a period of days or even weeks.  You also might try heating the entire car (with the plastic parts removed) in an oven.  I probably wouldn't exceed 200 degrees F.  Periodically grip the shaft with the padded jaws of  Vice-Grip pliers and rotate, even if you don't perceive any movement this will assist the penetrating oil.   Sooner or later, with patience, the shaft should loosen and be removable.  If those measures don't work and you have access to dry ice, do the oven treatment then apply dry ice to the shaft only (thereby shrinking it dimensionally). 
3.  If you haven't already sourced the springs and/or runners, they are available from Euro Marine Trading (the USA Antal Dealer)  USA Phone #  401 849-0060  ,  62 Halsey Street, Unit M, Newport, RI  02840  USA

1.  Runner Inserts are G30, 40A PVC Inserts 160 ml long (US $ 18.45 per set of two in 2017)
2.  Stainless Steel Stand-Up Bracket Spring   part number Y-X1041 (US $ 7.86 each in 2019) 

I wish you luck,

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona    Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
On the hard in Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico



Matt Salatino
 

Good I f, thanks!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 8, 2019, at 10:04 AM, Gary Silver via Groups.Io <garysilver@...> wrote:

Rico

Alan Leslie
 

Thanks very much Gary...good thoughts 
Cheers 
Alan
Elyse SM 437