Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
|
Alan "Woody" Wood
Hi All
I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:
I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:
Thanks in advance! Woody SM'97 
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
A quick question to all:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
We also need to unmount our new Volvo to replace a seal on the c-drive. My question: Boat is currently out of the water and would be easy to do. Should re-allignment of the motor occur in water? Or since we have a rail, is it ok to do on land? I had been told previously that with most sailboats motors must be aligned only in the water secondary to hull flex. Is that also the case with our 54? It seems to be very stiff, and then there the engine rail mount system. Many thanks, Porter McRoberts A54-152 IBIS
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Herbert Lackner
Woody,
having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier. the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum. I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked. herbert, SN120 |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Alan "Woody" Wood
Thanks for the reply Herbert.
I’m new to this job and still unsure exactly how the alignment tool works. Could you give a brief description perhaps? Also any idea of the model of engine mounts? Thanks.. |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Hi Herbert, Being that the disk brake has a long hub on it , I believe the normal alignment tool will work. The length of the hub on the brake disk compensates for the pulley on the alternator. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
Woody, |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Herbert Lackner
attached you find the fotos of the alignment tool with the shaft alternator. it works, - but if I would build the tool again I would make it longer.
fair winds, herbert     |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Herbert Lackner
Woody, search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need
a summary with info from Olivier: in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing. You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment.
Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...). Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle. Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle). Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts. Then comes the alignment process. AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts. First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even. Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.
The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps. If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE. The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm. The outside diameter is 100 mm. The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.
You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Alan "Woody" Wood
That’s all really helpfull, thanks for that Herbert. So you slide the tool back and forth on the shaft to get the alignment right before bringing the engine and shaft back together after the jobs are done? Unfortunately i’ll Still have to remove the shaft alternator to get to the leak on the flywheel bell housing I think :/ but certainly feel more comfortable abor starting the job now.
Woody |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Woody, You adjust the engine mounts with the tool against the transmission output flange. Once the tool is centered on the flange you then continue to adjust the mounts until there is a plus or minus .002 clearance between the flange and tool all the way around.. That means the shafts are perfectly aligned. You then remove the tool and drop the engine back on to the mounts and tighten the engine mounts—USE new nylocks. You can then reassemble the drive chain. I don’t know if you have to cut the connecting bolts to disassemble the assembly. If you do you can use threaded rod and nylocks to replace the cutoff bolts. Fair Winds Eric Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2020 11:51 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block
That’s all really helpfull, thanks for that Herbert. So you slide the tool back and forth on the shaft to get the alignment right before bringing the engine and shaft back together after the jobs are done? Unfortunately i’ll Still have to remove the shaft alternator to get to the leak on the flywheel bell housing I think :/ but certainly feel more comfortable abor starting the job now. |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
I have recently been through this process with a new installation.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
You may find that the c drive mounts have sagged from the original position just a few mm as the c drive is in 2 sections. Your engine mounts have probably sagged as well. I would begin with the current drive mounts and then the engine mounts. I gave everything a really good clean up with the engine lifted.
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Dear Amelians
I’m in the process to change Engine Mounts and not sure what type or brand of Mounts where originally used on the A54 with the Volvo D3-110. Somebody told me that Amel used on the Amel54 with the Volvo D3-110C the Volvo Mounts. I’m not sure and can’t identify which type and brand are installed on Wasabi.
Maybe somebody knows which model/type originally are installed. Otherwise I’m confident that Bill Rouse knows it. 😉 @Bill; I haven’t found any reference in your AMEL School Book.
Best regards Ruedi SY WASABI A54 #55
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von Herbert Lackner <herbert@...>
Woody, search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing. You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment.
Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...). Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle. Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle). Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.
Then comes the alignment process. AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts. First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even. Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.
The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps. If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE. The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm. The outside diameter is 100 mm. The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.
You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Ruedi, The issue is that so many things changed during the production of the 54, I cannot be sure, but I know the 54 started with 6 each Vetus K50 motor mounts as shown in the Amel 54 Users Manual.   
On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:36 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Thank you Bill
I have not seen something similar in the AMEL 54 Unser’s Manual not in the AMEL Owner’s Guide. Nevertheless your information is welcomed and a good starting point, and I will take out one before ordering so I’m sure.
Best regards Ruedi
Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> im Auftrag von CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Ruedi,
The issue is that so many things changed during the production of the 54, I cannot be sure, but I know the 54 started with 6 each Vetus K50 motor mounts as shown in the Amel 54 Users Manual.
On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 4:36 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
