Topics

Bow thruster oil seal leak

Peter de Groot
 

Thank you Bill and Giovanni,

Bill, RTV was used, I just did a good job wiping off the excess. The leak is between the shaft and the lip of seal not seal to housing. I agree that we need SAV at Amel.  I actually sent SAV an inquiry earlier today. I always like to be prepared with contingencies and choices.

 

Giovanni,

I agree, a little water in the oil is OK, but this leak is too much.

 

Cheers,

Peter

La Querida SM 207

Moss Landing, California

Giovanni TESTA
 

HI,

This my experience with Eutikia,from 2004, sailing around the world.

When I have the boat on the hard, once a year, I always remove the bow thruster foot.

So I replace the seal and , every 2 years, the 2 outside black neoprene disks, as well.

You may have different seals but always ,sooner or later, you have water inside the box.

Any way,  I never had damages because of it. When I change the oil/water, I leave the tube inverted, up down, for a while to empty it. No problem.

Than I add the new oil , the seal and the 2 new black neoprene disks.

Only a very important suggestion: always clean and than add silicon grease inside the bottom engine body before  inserting the black column. There’s a steel circular clip very fragile ! I broke it before Panama Canale, it was a big mess!

Obviously first follow Bill suggestions.

All the best

Giovanni Test

Sv EUTIKIA SM2K n 428



Il 15/03/2020 18:08, Peter de Groot ha scritto:


Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.

 

Peter,

You have a number of problems, some I can help you with. 

SUGGESTIONS:
  1. You should never put 100% trust in inherited parts unless you are absolutely sure of their origin. 
  2. You should always buy critical parts from Amel and Amel only.
  3. We all should support Amel SAV because we need them
  4. The Amel OEM part does not have a double lip
  5. The original Amel OEM seal was for a 30 x 42 x 8 single lip seal, but Amel changed that spec to 29 x 42 x 8 single lip seal
  6. Your seal is the wrong size
  7. I do not see any RTV sealing the seal to the seal seat. 
  8. Failure to seal the edges with RTV will likely cause a leak
  9. If the correct seal is used, it should be recessed to the casing about 2-3mm. 
  10. Failure to press the seal all the way in will likely cause a leak
It is possible that the propeller shaft is worn and needs replacing. I believe Amel has these in stock. I have seen worn shafts repaired with a stainless steel sleeve and work correctly, but I think by the time you pay to have this done, a replacement shaft is a better and cheaper solution.

It is also possible that the seal seat (the recessed area where the seal is pressed into) is damaged, or was not clean when you pressed the new seal in place..

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar
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On Sun, Mar 15, 2020 at 12:08 PM Peter de Groot <pandmdegroot@...> wrote:


Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.

Peter de Groot
 



Greetings all,
This is the second lip seal I've installed.  (The previous owner left a handy stash of parts on board) The first had a single lip, the second came in a bag with Paulstra brand and part number 792521 IEL 30 42 7.  I'm deducing it came from Amel.  It had two lips, a heavier one inwards to retain the oil and a lighter one outwards nearer the outside surface.
Regardless they both leaked after installing.
The surface of the shaft which is not SS (FRP maybe??) feels rough, and there was only a narrow band where it feels smoother.  
The oil that came out was cloudy green, thick like a milk shake, so I'm thinking water was entering.
The question is what to do.  I'm contemplating 3 choices:
-Purchase a new shaft from Amel, perhaps a new complete bow thruster, as the counterbore to receive the seal also has some chips.
-Find a SS speedi-sleeve to provide a smoother surface, machine existing shaft if necessary.
-Make a new shaft with a local machine shop.  In which case which material?  Acetal perhaps, I'm assuming stainless is a no-go.

I'd appreciate any advice if any of you have experienced the same problem.  

Peter de Groot
SM 207 la Querida
Moss Landing, California.