anchor wash safety note
william reynolds
The 24 vdc breaker on the 24 volt panel controls the power to activators on the windlass, the sail motors and winches but not to the anchor wash. The anchor wash has direct power from the C/B panel to the switch to the pump and is fused at 10 amps @24 vdc.and is hot all the time unless you go down into the engine room and trip the circuit breaker. Running this current through the 24 vdc switch on the 24 vdc main panel for the anchor, windlass and sail motors would be an overload situation. So, the anchor wash switch is hot as long as the C/B in the engine bay is activated. I was advised that you should to get into the engine compartment and kill or activate the anchor wash circuit breaker there to disable/enable the power to the anchor wash. Not everyone is going to do this and the anchor wash pump switch will be live (or dead) all the time. The anchor wash power cable is right under the Ray marine A/P head in the upper access over the galley. I installed a 15 amp, 24 vdc relay in the anchor wash power line and connected the relay activator (42 milli-amp) to the 24 volt switch that controls everything else. Attached are photos of the installed relay and wiring choices. Now the anchor wash switch is hot only when the main 24 vdc power to the other items is selected. A $15 fix to protect a $250 saltwater pump. Bill Reynolds CloudStreet SM2K
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You did not mention the 24v breaker for the anchor wash pump in the engine room. Bill
On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 3:37 PM william reynolds <sail23692@...> wrote:
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greg greg
in my experience the problem arises when AWP is not used frequently enough. it gets clogged with sea debris and requires the full refurbishing some time. the good thing is it't bronze and can be repaired :)
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william reynolds
AWP should have a filter before it preferably a 60 mesh screen. I have filters on all my seawater pumps-, head (2) generator and even fresh water -10 microns. I rarely have a pump failure due to debris.
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