
Kent Robertson
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent SM243 Kristy
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eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Had you seen the solution Amel came up for that problem? they flipped over the intercooler upside down and made a bracket to hold it up aft of the engine. I will try to send a photo. Eric Sm 376 Kimberlite
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On July 18, 2020 at 8:58 PM "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote:
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
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Mark Erdos
Hi Kent,
I do mine by
brail.
Are you using
threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

The above tool
is used for installation and removal.
I have a little
tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a
wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left
handed is an advantage.
When installing
the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube
allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades.
It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine
and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue
shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine
is running to check for any leaks.
Before I
started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It
is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy
from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I
can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this
helps.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar
4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel
tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing
hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before
it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they
deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a
remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing
that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
|
|
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent, I do mine by brail. Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference: 
The above tool is used for installation and removal. I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool. Being left handed is an advantage. When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working. I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks. Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything). Hope this helps. With best regards, Mark Skipper Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275 Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia www.creampuff.us From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end. Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated. Kent SM243 Kristy
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|
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by brail.
Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

The above tool is used for installation and removal.
I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left handed is an advantage.
When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.
Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end. Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated. Kent SM243 Kristy
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|

Mark Erdos
Very cool! Thanks!
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
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Show quoted text
From: eric
[mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much
easier then the ones supplied with the pump.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM
Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by
brail.
Are you using threaded
impellers? These make a huge difference:

The above tool
is used for installation and removal.
I have a little
tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a
wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left
handed is an advantage.
When installing
the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube
allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the
blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the
engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue
shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine
is running to check for any leaks.
Before I
started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It
is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy
from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I
can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this
helps.
With best
regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently
cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From:
main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On
Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar
4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel
tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing
hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before
it's done.
I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they
deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a
remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing
that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
|
|
eric freedman <kimberlite@...>
Mark, The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump. They are a lot easier to hold and install. Eric
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Very cool! Thanks!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: eric [mailto:kimberlite@...] Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 6:20 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io; Mark Erdos Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376 https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by brail.
Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

The above tool is used for installation and removal.
I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left handed is an advantage.
When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.
Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of karkauai via groups.io Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2020 2:58 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] 110 HP Yanmar raw water pump access
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end. Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated. Kent SM243 Kristy
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
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|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
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|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Mark, The thumbscrews are for the cover plate for the water pump. They are a lot easier to hold and install. Eric
On July 19, 2020 at 12:42 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Very cool! Thanks!
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
Try using these using these thumb screws. They are so much easier then the ones supplied with the pump. Fair Winds, Eric SM 376 https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/system-of-measurement~metric/thumb-screws/metric-stainless-steel-raised-knurled-head-thumb-screws/
On July 19, 2020 at 12:13 AM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Hi Kent,
I do mine by brail.
Are you using threaded impellers? These make a huge difference:

The above tool is used for installation and removal.
I have a little tool kit just for this job. It includes a nut-driver to remove the cover and a wrench for the impeller tool and the impeller tool.
Being left handed is an advantage.
When installing the impeller, use lots of dishwashing detergent to coat the blades. This lube allows it to go in smoothly. No need to worry about the orientation of the blades. It’ll correct itself on the first revolution. And, when you start the engine and see soapy water outside of the boat you know it is working.
I leave a blue shop paper-towel under the raw water pump for the first few minutes the engine is running to check for any leaks.
Before I started using this tool I removed the components on that side of the engine. It is only few bolts and a couple of hoses. This made access to the pump very easy from the top. However, it made the job longer and cut into my beer time. Now I can change the impeller in about 15-20 minutes (if I don’t drop anything).
Hope this helps.
With best regards,
Mark
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia
www.creampuff.us
I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end. Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated. Kent SM243 Kristy
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|

Kent Robertson
Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
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Show quoted text
On Jul 18, 2020 8:58 PM, "karkauai via groups.io" <karkauai@...> wrote: I know a few SMo have repowered with the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. The raw water pump is on the aft/starboard side next to the fuel tank. It's almost impossible for me to change the impeller without removing hoses and alternator, and even then it's hours of struggling and cussing before it's done. I'm writing to ask others if they are having the same problem, and how they deal with it. I'm considering removing that impeller and putting in a remote raw water pump. Previously mechanics have discouraged me from doing that, but I'm at wits end.
Any advice, thoughts, etc are greatly appreciated.
Kent SM243 Kristy
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|

Porter McRoberts
Could a Moly bolt, drywall bolt be helpful in removing the non-threaded impellers? We've had 2 engines. The first impeller location (volvo d3-c) was a bear to deal with. The second, a bit better (D3-H). Always looking for solutions to ease the job.
Porter A54-152
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Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
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Porter,
Volvo has the same thing that was shown for Yanmar.
Volvo Penta Impeller Removal Tool 3843948 for D3 using impeller 21951352
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CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School
|
|
|
Address:
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550
|
|
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Could a Moly bolt, drywall bolt be helpful in removing the non-threaded impellers? We've had 2 engines. The first impeller location (volvo d3-c) was a bear to deal with. The second, a bit better (D3-H). Always looking for solutions to ease the job.
Porter A54-152
Eric, Mark, and Bill, Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am going to take all of them and keep the boat.
Mark, I have the impeller removal tool, but the last mechanic put it in backwards...Grrrr.
Thanks again, Kent
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|