On Wed, 4 Nov 2020 at 8:32, david bruce

<davidcbruce57@...> wrote:

Hello All, 
I am ordering 10 pr (min order size) of the silicone BT seals pioneered by Jose Venegas a while back. Although I have not used them myself they are apparently quite effective and I am anxious to install them on Liesse (if I ever manage to see her again).   I will have an extra 4 pr at USD 81.00/pr. plus shipping for anyone that would like a pair or two.  If you have specific questions about them I would refer you to the archives.  Private message me if you are interested.  Thanks. 
Best regards, 
David Bruce
Liesse
SN006

Hello All, 
I am ordering 10 pr (min order size) of the silicone BT seals pioneered by Jose Venegas a while back. Although I have not used them myself they are apparently quite effective and I am anxious to install them on Liesse (if I ever manage to see her again).   I will have an extra 4 pr at USD 81.00/pr. plus shipping for anyone that would like a pair or two.  If you have specific questions about them I would refer you to the archives.  Private message me if you are interested.  Thanks. 
Best regards, 
David Bruce
Liesse
SN006

On 6/11/2020, at 2:33 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



To all,

 

We had constant issues with our bow thruster and a small amount of water coming in. I followed the directions for the service to the letter and for a few months it would be dry. Then, slowly the drips began and over time would slowly get worse. I found myself having to change the seals every 6-months to a year.

 

I changed Jose’s seals in Galapagos before crossing tp French Polynesia. So far, the area is bone dry! 6 months now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of david bruce
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2020 7:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Silicone BT seals

 

Hello All, 
I am ordering 10 pr (min order size) of the silicone BT seals pioneered by Jose Venegas a while back. Although I have not used them myself they are apparently quite effective and I am anxious to install them on Liesse (if I ever manage to see her again).   I will have an extra 4 pr at USD 81.00/pr. plus shipping for anyone that would like a pair or two.  If you have specific questions about them I would refer you to the archives.  Private message me if you are interested.  Thanks. 
Best regards, 
David Bruce
Liesse
SN006



To all,

 

We had constant issues with our bow thruster and a small amount of water coming in. I followed the directions for the service to the letter and for a few months it would be dry. Then, slowly the drips began and over time would slowly get worse. I found myself having to change the seals every 6-months to a year.

 

I changed Jose’s seals in Galapagos before crossing tp French Polynesia. So far, the area is bone dry! 6 months now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of david bruce
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2020 7:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Silicone BT seals

 

Hello All, 
I am ordering 10 pr (min order size) of the silicone BT seals pioneered by Jose Venegas a while back. Although I have not used them myself they are apparently quite effective and I am anxious to install them on Liesse (if I ever manage to see her again).   I will have an extra 4 pr at USD 81.00/pr. plus shipping for anyone that would like a pair or two.  If you have specific questions about them I would refer you to the archives.  Private message me if you are interested.  Thanks. 
Best regards, 
David Bruce
Liesse
SN006

On 6/11/2020, at 3:55 PM, Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:



JP, I think this is good advice. Especially because it's the foam seals that really keep the water out, not the vertical shaft seal. Do you have a foolproof method to remember to put the pin in place while at sea/underway? That's the only risk I my opinion.

Cheers,

Mike Longcor

SV Trilogy SM23

Opua, NZ

On Fri, Nov 6, 2020, 3:40 PM Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

FWIW... my seals are good for years. 

My trick is to release the pin whenever we are in a harbour/ anchorage. The pin is in only during offshore passages. Saves the crush on the seals

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

On 6/11/2020, at 2:33 PM, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



To all,

 

We had constant issues with our bow thruster and a small amount of water coming in. I followed the directions for the service to the letter and for a few months it would be dry. Then, slowly the drips began and over time would slowly get worse. I found myself having to change the seals every 6-months to a year.

 

I changed Jose’s seals in Galapagos before crossing tp French Polynesia. So far, the area is bone dry! 6 months now.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of david bruce
Sent: Tuesday, November 3, 2020 7:33 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Silicone BT seals

 

Hello All, 
I am ordering 10 pr (min order size) of the silicone BT seals pioneered by Jose Venegas a while back. Although I have not used them myself they are apparently quite effective and I am anxious to install them on Liesse (if I ever manage to see her again).   I will have an extra 4 pr at USD 81.00/pr. plus shipping for anyone that would like a pair or two.  If you have specific questions about them I would refer you to the archives.  Private message me if you are interested.  Thanks. 
Best regards, 
David Bruce
Liesse
SN006

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

On Nov 6, 2020, at 5:00 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello William,

I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist.  I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern.  

Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock.  Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass.

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

jp.germain45@...

On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

On Nov 6, 2020, at 20:33, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

On Nov 7, 2020, at 3:47 AM, Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...> wrote:

Hi, this was on our 2006 Amel 54 when we bought in 2015. 

We thought it was a standard attached by Amel at build. Was very helpful when we first sailed but we do more checks now.

<image1.jpeg>

<image0.jpeg>

Very Best 

Barry and Penny

“SV Lady Penelope II”

Amel 54. #17

Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 20:33, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

Excellent suggestion. Use flow to create the list. (You commercial big iron guys are the best!)

Hello William,

 

I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist.  I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern.  

 

Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock.  Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass.

 

Fair winds,

 

 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

jp.germain45@...

 

 

On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

 

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

 

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429

 

 

On Nov 8, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Leslie Washburn via groups.io <washburn.leslie1@...> wrote:

William,

 

Here are a few samples that could be helpful.

 

 

 

SAMPLE #1

 

<image002.png>

 

https://www.soundingsonline.com/voices/lifelines-checklist

 

 

 

 

 

SAMPLE #2

 

1 Before leaving marina / moving vessel

Anchor chain/line • Chain & line. Chafe ?

Anchor winch • Does it work/ handle available ?

Cockpit drain • Is it clogged ?

Compass light • Check it at night

Engine belts • Tight ? Worn ? Aligned ?

Engines • Inspection for leaks etc Spares

EPIRB • In date?

Fire extinguishers • In date / Charged

Flashlights • Do they work ? Spare batteries

Handheld instruments • Batteries good? Do they work?

Hatches • Do they close 100%. Handles, knobs etc

Instruments • Turn them on to check ?

Lifelines • Visual inspection for breaks etc

Lights • Interior, exterior & Nav lights. Spare bulbs.

Lockers • Make sure they lock shut.

Man-over-board gear • Check quick release and condition

Navigation lights • Easy to check at night

Outboard engine • You have spares ? Does it work ?

Ports • Do they close 100%. Handles, knobs etc

Radios • Batteries ? Do they work? Licenses ?

Safety equipment • Valid date ? Ready for use ?

Stanchions • Are they solid ?

Toilets • In good working order ? Holding tank OK ?

Clean Propeller • Dive and check

2 Before long ocean passage

Cockpit drain • Is it clogged ?

Compass light • Check it at night

Engine mounts • Visual inspection. Are they secure ?

EPIRB • In date?

Expiry dates • Ship papers/radio licences etc.

Fire extinguishers • In date / charged

Flashlights • Do they work ? Spare batteries.

Gas bottles • Rusty? Are they secure? Change hose ?

Odour?

Gas locker • Is vent hole plugged?

Handheld instruments • Batteries good ? Do they work?

Lifelines • Visual inspection for breaks etc

Liferaft • In date? Secure ? Accessible ?

Lights • Interior, exterior & Nav lights. Spare bulbs.

Man-over-board gear • Check quick release and condition

Navigation lights • Easy to check at night

Rigging • Visual inspection from top to bottom.

Roller furlers • Rinse, grease, visual inspection.

Free running ?

Safety equipment • Valid date ? Ready for use ?

Sails • Stitching. Chafe

Ship's papers - Visas • Complete

Stanchions • Are they solid ?

Wind vane • Check it out before you need it

3 Daily

Gas leak • Is there any odour near/under the stove/

pipes?

4 Weekly

Bilges • Is there water/ fuel present ?

Fuel leaks • Fuel in the bilge/ around the tanks ?

Underwater leaks • If salt water in bilges check all fittings

5 Monthly

Batteries • Acid level ? Clean terminals ?

Deck leaks • Check chainplates/hatches/ports etc. ?

Electrics • Run everything to make sure it works.

Spare fuses.

Engines • Inspection for leaks etc Spares

Fire extinguishers • Positions, mounting, in date ?

Flashlights • Do they work? Spare batteries ?

Gas locker • Is vent hole plugged?

Pumps • Do they work? Handles for manual pumps

Toilets • In good working order ? Holding tank OK ?

Seacock • Open / Close / Check movement

 

 

 

SAMPLE #3

ON DECK

• Anchors are shackled and seized to rode, and there is some means of securing them to bow-roller / deck-chocks (or below deck) once you leave confined waters
• Bitter end of anchor rode is secured to boat below decks
• Chain hawsepipe is as watertight as possible

• Deck storage cans for water and fuel are well-lashed
• Deck-mounted dinghy is tightly lashed
• Outboard motor is securely stowed on pushpit, in deck locker or elsewhere on deck where fuel cannot leak into boat 
• Outboard fuel securely stowed on deck or in a sealed deck locker

• Rubber gaskets on hatches and opening ports are sound
• Hatches and ports shut and dogged, hatch-covers fitted as appropriate
• Deck-filler caps for fuel and water properly done-up and o-rings in good condition
• Cockpit drains are clear and draining freely
• Washboards are sound and handy (ready to fit when needed)

• Lifeline connectors are in good condition and properly done up
• Lifelines/stanchions are strong enough to support a heavy crewmember’s weight
• Stanchions are secured with pins or bolts in their bases; bases are bolted securely through deck (not screwed)
• Sharp knife stowed close to cockpit for emergency rope-cutting

SAILS

• all sails inspected for rips, holes and broken stitching on seams
• batten ends securely fastened and in good condition
• sail slides in good condition (none worn, broken or sun-damaged)
• Roller headsails furl freely and top swivel is working properly
• Headsail hanks working freely
• Comprehensive sail repair kit on board, plus spare sailcloth and strong adhesive for major ‘instant’ repairs

REEFING

• Roller reefing lubricated and handle stowed in appropriate place
• Slab reefing lines working and chafe-free

SPARS

• No metal-fatigue, corrosion or chafe on load-bearing fittings such as mast crane and shroud tangs
• Spreaders are secure at inboard end and correctly angled
• Anti-chafe on spreader-ends to prevent damage to sails
• Wooden spars inspected for shakes or areas of softness around fittings

RIGGING

• Bosun’s chair is in good condition and stowed somewhere accessible in case of emergency
• Rigging wire is sound: no broken strands, particularly around terminal fittings
• Shackle-pins (aloft & on deck) firmly done up and seized
• All shackles, terminals, turning blocks and mast fittings inspected for fractures, wear and pitting
• Sheaves turn freely
• Split-pins/rings in all rigging screws or turnbuckles (aloft & on deck)
• Exposed split-pins are taped to prevent snagging of sheets, sails or passing legs
• Rig is correctly tensioned: mast is in column and leaning neither to port or starboard
• Chainplates inspected for cracks or corrosion
• Hacksaw plus spare blades on board (for emergency rigging removal), and bull-dog clips for a jury rig

STEERING

• Rudder has no excessive play
• Wheel steering: cables are properly tensioned, lubricated and protected from interference by gear stowed nearby.  Inspect for broken strands.
• Tiller is sound (no splits or cracks) and firmly secured to rudder stock
• Self-steering is correctly set up
• Emergency tiller has been tested and crew know how to find, rig and use it

HEAVY WEATHER GEAR

• Trysail and storm jib have been hoisted and checked for condition, sheeting angles, tack strops etc
• Rode, turning blocks and anti-chafe assembled and accessible for sea-anchor/drogue
• Storm boards accessible for windows and skylights

DOWN BELOW

• Seacocks are working freely; skin fittings in good condition
• All through-hulls have tapered softwood bungs attached by lanyard in case of skin-fitting failure
• Flexible piping is secured to through-hull fittings with double hose-clamps.  Hose clamps in good condition
• All siphon-breaks and breathers clear and working

• All movable items are stowed in lockers, fastened or lashed in place
• Fiddles are in ‘offshore’ position
• All drawers and locker doors have catches to prevent them flying open at sea
• Lee cloths/boards for bunks are strong and have adequate fastenings

ENGINE

• Overheat alarm/light is working
• Drip tray under engine is oil-free
• Fuel tanks are full
• Fuel sumps and filters checked for water and diesel fungus
• Oil is clean and topped up
• You have enough spare oil on board for at least one oil-change
• Cooling water through-hull and strainer are clear of blockages and growth
• Drive belts inspected for condition and correct tension
• Stern gland adjusted and lubricated

ENGINE RUNNING CHECKS

• Cooling water is pumping
• Throttle control and gear-shift are working correctly
• No excessive vibration
• Ammeter/voltmeter shows alternator is charging

POWER GENERATION

• You have sufficient means of generating power to run navigation lights, house lights, instruments and any other appliances you wish to use at sea
• Batteries are holding a charge
• Batteries are securely contained in boxes clear of bilge-water
• Battery terminals are clean, free of corrosion, and cables securely connected
• Electrolyte level correct in battery cells (if not, top up with distilled water)

GALLEY

• Galley-strap securely fastened, and strong enough to take a heavy crewmember’s weight
• Stove has adequate fiddles to retain pans/kettle in rough seas
• Gas bottles properly stowed; gas alarm working
• Gas bottles, valves, piping and stove checked for condition
• Sufficient food and stove-fuel on board for anticipated passage-time plus safety margin
• All dry stores in waterproof packaging or containers
• Rough weather provisions (snacks, instant meals etc) easily accessible

WATER

• All water tanks topped-up and caps securely in place
• Tank plumbing checked for leaks
• Flexible water bladders protected against chafe
• Manual fresh water pump working
• Pressure water pump system turned OFF
• Toilets tested and free of leaks

FIRE

• Extinguishers are in good condition and mounted in places they can be accessed easily during an engine or galley fire
• Engine fuel shut-off valve located and tested
• Bucket stowed in cockpit or lazarette for use in engine-room fire or emergency bailing situation
• Fire blanket is easily accessible (not buried in a locker)

LEAK MANAGEMENT

• You have at least 2 bilge pumps on board, one of them manual
• Bilges and limber-holes are clear of debris (so will not block pumps)
• Manual bilge pump hose is fitted with a strainer
• Manual bilge pump is strongly mounted and working efficiently, with handle easy to access in emergency
• Electric bilge pump working (including float switch and panel light)
• Electric bilge pump switched to ‘AUTO’
• Bilges are dry (to allow monitoring of leaks underway)
• Rudder tube and gland checked for leaks
• All areas of bilge are accessible in case you need to inspect at sea
• Crew are aware that head valves must be closed immediately after use

NAVIGATION

• GPS is working and securely mounted
• GPS waypoints double-checked for co-ordinate accuracy and datum discrepancies
• Compass is correctly adjusted, with deviation card on board
• Nothing metal or magnetic (tools, aerosol cans, radio, cameras) stowed near compass
• Log, depth-sounder etc correctly calibrated and barometer set
• Sufficient chart coverage of planned and contingency routes, as well as pilotage information
• Plotting tools (pencils, dividers, parallel rules/protractor etc)
• Hand-bearing compass and binoculars are secure but accessible
• Relevant tide tables on board

NIGHT SAILING

• Compass light working
• Chart table light and galley light screened to avoid blinding watch-keepers
• Waterproof torches (with fresh batteries!) available for use on deck or in emergency

VISIBILITY

• Mast-head lights are working
• Navigation lights are working (fore and aft); and positioned so they cannot be obscured by sails
• Back-up navigation lights (battery) in case of electrical system failure
• Powerful torch or portable spotlight within reach of cockpit (to draw attention to your boat when a collision is possible)
• Fog horn is working
• Adequate radar reflectors in place

RADIO

• Radios functioning and signal checked
• all crew are familiar with distress procedure (and/or instructions are taped near radio)
• you have up-to-date frequencies and times for weather broadcasts

SAFETY

• A jack-line of adequate breaking strain is securely rigged between cockpit and foredeck both sides (for clipping harness tether onto)
• Deck is sufficiently non-skid, particularly the coachroof, foredeck and around the mast
• You have sufficient hand-holds along the side-decks (if not, rig temporary ones using rope or webbing)
• EPIRB tested, and batteries are in date
• Liferaft is in date, large enough for the number of crew, and stowed securely in an accessible position
• Liferaft tie-downs checked for sun-damage and chafe
• Sufficient harnesses, tethers and lifejackets for the number of crew: all in good condition and located for easy access underway
• Danbuoy, lifebuoys, upside-down lights etc firmly mounted and ready for deployment
• A good supply of flares (the necessary number in date) stowed in waterproof containers
• Waterproof ‘grab kit’ stowed for easy accessibility, containing useful items for liferaft or dinghy survival at sea
• All crew are familiar with your Man Overboard procedure

CREW WELFARE

• First aid kit: check adequate and waterproof
• Offshore medical kit is comprehensive, with drugs in date, and waterproof
• Do-it-yourself medical handbook onboard
• Seasick pills, sun-block and painkillers easily accessible
• Drinking water bottle handy to cockpit
• Sufficient warm clothing, bedding and foul weather gear for all crew
• Watch system and galley rota organised

 

 

SAMPLE #4

 

every day CHECKLIST

Chafe Detection - At least once a day we walk around the deck to check for chafe on the items listed:	Anchor ties Pole guys and control lines Jib/Yankee /Staysail sheets Main halyard Mainsheet Reefing lines Dingy tiedown lines Jerry container tiedown lines Mainsail at spreaders if we are off the wind' Mainsail, Jib, Staysail tacks Roller furlers Main boom goosenecks Windvane control lines Mizzen halyard Mizzen sheet' Mizzen reefing lines Mizzen tack Mizzen gooseneck
Assure Items are Secure	Liferaft Hold downs Fenderboard Outboard motor MOB pole MOB horseshoe ring Lifesling
Engine	Check oil level Check voltage on all batteries

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of William O'Toole
Sent: Friday, November 6, 2020 7:25 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Silicone BT seals

 

Excellent suggestion. Use flow to create the list. (You commercial big iron guys are the best!)

William Sent from my iPhone 

On Nov 6, 2020, at 5:00 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre <jp.germain45@...> wrote:

Hello William,

 

I flew heavies and they all use a flow form of checklist.  I have never needed a written one but you could develop your own, specific to your vessel, broken down by areas of concern.  

 

Include BT pin removal before leaving the dock.  Start the engine 10 minutes before leaving the dock if it is likely you’ll need to give it the beans… perhaps run the genset if you expect to use the BT or windlass.

 

Fair winds,

 

 

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, NZ

jp.germain45@...

 

 

On 7 Nov 2020, at 13:32, William O'Toole <william@...> wrote:

 

Was a private pilot and very familiar with check lists. But…in my sailing I never crossed the concept of checklist from flying pre-flight over to leaving the dock. Humbling realization. Anybody have a checklist for going bow to stern and back again that they could share?

-- 
William O'Toole 
President
EcoNomics, Inc.
832 Camino Del Mar, Suite 1
Del Mar, California   92014
(858) 793-9200 Main Office
(858) 886-6657 San Juan Capistrano Office
(805) 331-9591 Cellular

On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:15 PM, rossirossix4 <rossidesigngroup@...> wrote:

 

Absolutely agree on releasing the pin at the dock or anchorage and decompressing the seals.  On our boat, pulling the pin and flipping the down switch for as short a time as possible usually lowers it just enough to take the pressure off the seals. This leaves the pressure on the cable and the lowering motor mechanism but there is little force if the anchorage/dock is quiet.  I do the same on the hard except i don't like to leave it on the lifting cable/motor mechanism for such a long period of time.  In that case I use a split pin and rest it on that rather than the locking pin.  Because the split pin (AKA cotter key) is a smaller diameter you can rest it on the thinner spllit pin and the seals are not compressed as much.  This may not seem to be a significant distance but it really reduces the compression.  I think it is that tight, tight compression that gives a good seal--but, again--leaving it that way for a long time causes a problem.  Doing this seems to dramatically reduce the leak problem.

Regarding check lists, let me add that they way we prepare for departure is to start inside and go from bow to stern, then outside from bow to stern checking as we go.  So our first item is the bow thruster, windlass/genoa breaker, inside windlass switch, front hatch, cabinet latches, head hatch, toilet emptied, front bilge check......etc...etc.....ending with a look at the rudder quadrant and rear hatch.  We then do the exterior--bow to stern--starting with running lights, anchor, windlass....etc....ending with davits and stern light.  We do the engine room last.  For us, it is the easiest way to do a thorough check.

Bob and Suzanne, KAIMI  SM429 

 

 

Hi, this was on our 2006 Amel 54 when we bought in 2015.