Solar installation and Link10 Battery Monitor


ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Bill, Mark, Daniela and Michael, 

My solar loves your solution and is now kissing cousins with the Link10.

Happy days. Just two 180 W panels have reduced our genset time significantly. The Greens would approve.

Thanks again,

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Porto Rafti, Greece


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Sent: 04 June 2021 21:42
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Solar installatio and Link10
 
Ian,

Mark's advice is correct. I am going to go a bit further.

I had a marine electrician wire my MPPT and panels to the battery bank. He connected the negative terminal to a convenient bolt on the shunt in the photo below. This is the wrong place because it distorted the readings showing too much energy going into the battery bank. See the next photo below.
image.png

I suggest that you connect the cables to the battery switches and connect them on the Battery side of the positive switch and the negative switch. I also suggest that you consider using a positive and negative bus bar to take some of the wires off of this terminal. This photo is of a Typical Positive Switch on an Amel. The Negative switch will look about the same. I placed a green circle on the switch lug that needs to receive battery charging from the MPPT.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021 at 2:32 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Ian,

It's sounds like the DC negative cable from your solar charge controller is wired incorrectly and is bypassing the shunt.  Therefore, the shunt and the battery monitor are not "seeing" the amps going into the batteries from the solar panels.  Try moving the negative cable coming from the solar charge controller to the "inlet" side of the shunt so that the current from the charge controller is going through the shunt.  The shunt is located outside the battery compartment on the other side of the main DC negative stud that is inside the battery compartment.  Remove the mattress above the battery compartment and you will see a small hole where you can access  the shunt.

Mark


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 2:36 PM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hello all, 

We have just escaped London for Greece and reunion with Pen Azen who has been fitted with two solar panels in our absence . 
The solar monitor shows good volts and amps going in to the batteries but the Link 10 , whilst showing good volts ( 26-28 ) also shows that with only the fridge on ( we are ashore ) we are losing amps, now down to about 70%
What is curious is that when we use the 220v chargers with shore power the readings don’t change. 

Can it be that in some way the addition of the solar interferes with the function of the Link10?

The panels are small , giving maybe 7.5 Amps . The wiring from the MPPT goes direct into the battery compartment to connect with the two main stubs

Any ideas ? 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen , SM 302, Kilada, Greece


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thank you also Daniela and Michael ,

Finding really good solar guys in this part of the world is not the easiest but I think we’ll get there .

Ian and Judy , Pen Azen

On 5 Jun 2021, at 07:24, Ian Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com> wrote:

Thank you Mark and Bill ,

These things are sent to try those trying to launch in a hurry !

Ian and Judy , Pen Azen

Sent from my iPhone

On 5 Jun 2021, at 00:51, Michael Markstaller via groups.io <michael=markstaller.de@groups.io> wrote:

Hi,

from your explanations, sorry, I would suspect your missing some major things!
IF the MPPT is going directly onto the battery its bypassing the battery-monitor, so you won't see it at all.
How much PV panels do you have? Really? 26-28V says nothing, it's the job of your MPPT-charger to adjust that to your batteries like 12V (14,4V charging, 13,5V "Standby") or 24V (below 28.8V charging they will never get full above 70-80%)

I found nothing on Google, what a "Link 10" could be

--
Daniela & Michael
Blue Horizon - EUROS #215





ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thank you Mark and Bill ,

These things are sent to try those trying to launch in a hurry !

Ian and Judy , Pen Azen

On 5 Jun 2021, at 00:51, Michael Markstaller via groups.io <michael=markstaller.de@groups.io> wrote:

Hi,

from your explanations, sorry, I would suspect your missing some major things!
IF the MPPT is going directly onto the battery its bypassing the battery-monitor, so you won't see it at all.
How much PV panels do you have? Really? 26-28V says nothing, it's the job of your MPPT-charger to adjust that to your batteries like 12V (14,4V charging, 13,5V "Standby") or 24V (below 28.8V charging they will never get full above 70-80%)

I found nothing on Google, what a "Link 10" could be

--
Daniela & Michael
Blue Horizon - EUROS #215





Michael Markstaller
 

Hi,

from your explanations, sorry, I would suspect your missing some major things!
IF the MPPT is going directly onto the battery its bypassing the battery-monitor, so you won't see it at all.
How much PV panels do you have? Really? 26-28V says nothing, it's the job of your MPPT-charger to adjust that to your batteries like 12V (14,4V charging, 13,5V "Standby") or 24V (below 28.8V charging they will never get full above 70-80%)

I found nothing on Google, what a "Link 10" could be

--
Daniela & Michael
Blue Horizon - EUROS #215


 

Ian,

Mark's advice is correct. I am going to go a bit further.

I had a marine electrician wire my MPPT and panels to the battery bank. He connected the negative terminal to a convenient bolt on the shunt in the photo below. This is the wrong place because it distorted the readings showing too much energy going into the battery bank. See the next photo below.
image.png

I suggest that you connect the cables to the battery switches and connect them on the Battery side of the positive switch and the negative switch. I also suggest that you consider using a positive and negative bus bar to take some of the wires off of this terminal. This photo is of a Typical Positive Switch on an Amel. The Negative switch will look about the same. I placed a green circle on the switch lug that needs to receive battery charging from the MPPT.
image.png


CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021 at 2:32 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Ian,

It's sounds like the DC negative cable from your solar charge controller is wired incorrectly and is bypassing the shunt.  Therefore, the shunt and the battery monitor are not "seeing" the amps going into the batteries from the solar panels.  Try moving the negative cable coming from the solar charge controller to the "inlet" side of the shunt so that the current from the charge controller is going through the shunt.  The shunt is located outside the battery compartment on the other side of the main DC negative stud that is inside the battery compartment.  Remove the mattress above the battery compartment and you will see a small hole where you can access  the shunt.

Mark


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 2:36 PM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hello all, 

We have just escaped London for Greece and reunion with Pen Azen who has been fitted with two solar panels in our absence . 
The solar monitor shows good volts and amps going in to the batteries but the Link 10 , whilst showing good volts ( 26-28 ) also shows that with only the fridge on ( we are ashore ) we are losing amps, now down to about 70%
What is curious is that when we use the 220v chargers with shore power the readings don’t change. 

Can it be that in some way the addition of the solar interferes with the function of the Link10?

The panels are small , giving maybe 7.5 Amps . The wiring from the MPPT goes direct into the battery compartment to connect with the two main stubs

Any ideas ? 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen , SM 302, Kilada, Greece


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Mark McGovern
 

Ian,

It's sounds like the DC negative cable from your solar charge controller is wired incorrectly and is bypassing the shunt.  Therefore, the shunt and the battery monitor are not "seeing" the amps going into the batteries from the solar panels.  Try moving the negative cable coming from the solar charge controller to the "inlet" side of the shunt so that the current from the charge controller is going through the shunt.  The shunt is located outside the battery compartment on the other side of the main DC negative stud that is inside the battery compartment.  Remove the mattress above the battery compartment and you will see a small hole where you can access  the shunt.

Mark


On Fri, Jun 4, 2021, 2:36 PM ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@...> <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:
Hello all, 

We have just escaped London for Greece and reunion with Pen Azen who has been fitted with two solar panels in our absence . 
The solar monitor shows good volts and amps going in to the batteries but the Link 10 , whilst showing good volts ( 26-28 ) also shows that with only the fridge on ( we are ashore ) we are losing amps, now down to about 70%
What is curious is that when we use the 220v chargers with shore power the readings don’t change. 

Can it be that in some way the addition of the solar interferes with the function of the Link10?

The panels are small , giving maybe 7.5 Amps . The wiring from the MPPT goes direct into the battery compartment to connect with the two main stubs

Any ideas ? 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen , SM 302, Kilada, Greece


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hello all, 

We have just escaped London for Greece and reunion with Pen Azen who has been fitted with two solar panels in our absence . 
The solar monitor shows good volts and amps going in to the batteries but the Link 10 , whilst showing good volts ( 26-28 ) also shows that with only the fridge on ( we are ashore ) we are losing amps, now down to about 70%
What is curious is that when we use the 220v chargers with shore power the readings don’t change. 

Can it be that in some way the addition of the solar interferes with the function of the Link10?

The panels are small , giving maybe 7.5 Amps . The wiring from the MPPT goes direct into the battery compartment to connect with the two main stubs

Any ideas ? 

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen , SM 302, Kilada, Greece