Main and outhaul motors and spare halyard-- correction , its 4 Am
Eric Freedman <kimberlite@...>
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From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Eric Freedman
Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 2:46 AM
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Main and outhaul motors and spare halyard
On our recent passage from NY to St Maarten our outhaul motor got wet,
When I went to my spares, I had a brand-new Leroy Sommer motor . Unfortunately, it was too small in diameter.
Are the outhaul and main furling motors the same size ?
Secondly, who is the current supplier or substitute for this motor?
It took me over 12 hours, but I was able to replace some wires and put shellac on the wires in the rotor Thank you Amel for the hair dryer. I then polished the commutator. I was also fortunate to have spare brushes from when I bought the boat new. I also installed a new gearbox. It works great. Unfortunately, this repair is not to be done on deck. I had to cut the wire to remove the assembly. I soldered the connection and used Scotch Cote on the connections and adhesive heat shrink tubing on both wires, I then put Scotch Cote over the heat shrink. If you don’t have this on board you might consider buying it. My electrician friends use it to cover final connections on underground cables, I kind of looks like shellac.
Then heat shrink over the 2 wires, and then self-amalgamating tape over the whole connection.
When I have time here in St Maarten, I will replace the entire wire. The wires are soldered to the outer surface of the brush holders in the motor. The motor has red and black wires, and my added wire is USA has white and black, When I connected my added piece of wire to the original Amel wire I connected the black to the brown and the white to the blue at the mast side and at the motor side the red to the black and the black to the white . However, the switch worked backwards.
No big deal just switched the leads at the switch—I just found it interesting.
When I ordered Kimberlite, I had them add a spinnaker halyard long enough to reach the primary winch via a block forward.
Handy for the boatswain’s chair.
When Kimberlite was delivered the halyard ends were flipped aft of the spreader and attached to the chain plate.
I am seeing wear at the area of the halyard where it contacts the top rail. And at the spreader for the mouse halyard. I had also replaced the mouse halyard with Vectran. Olivier said that the sheeves at the mast are strong enough to use for a halyard.
It comes in handy. To prevent further problems with my new halyards, I would like to connect them to something forward of the mast.
Possibly some gadget attached to the forward chain plate but slightly forward of that.
Yes, I know I could have changed the halyard end for end, but I would like to have a permanent solution
What do you think?
I am changing all the running rigging. What the heck do I do with all that line?
Kimberlite Amel SM 376
Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected. Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety. Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread! You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line. They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.
On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:
Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.
For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,
Thanks in advance!
With best regards,
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia