Topics

A55: fresh water pump system

Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...>
 

Bill ,

Being a newcomer to the Amel Yacht Owners Group I am not sure yet how to post a question and so I hope you don’t mind uf I address it to you.

We have a lack of pressure in the two bathrooms and the fresh water pump runs continuously except when turned off on tbe 24v board.

There seems to be plenty of pressure on the transom shower.

Might there be a filter in the pump or a pressure switch at fault?

Stuart
  

Stuart Hemingway AA Dipl DMS RIBA


Symbiotic Relationships Ltd.,


 Grove Park Studios,

188-192 Sutton court Road,

Chiswick,

London,

W4 3HR

 

Telephone

From the UK  :    001 561 371 2321

From the US  :    561 371 2321


E . Studio@...

W. www.groveparkstudios.co.uk.


On 22 Feb 2020, at 11:50, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Chip,

I normally say something like, "trust the original design." But, "trust" is what got us to this point. I think Henri Amel trusted the polyfoam manufacturers to deliver a good product to the vinyl covering manufacturer. And, I believe that Henri Amel trusted the polyfoam backing on the headliner to last a lot longer, but so did most automobile manufacturers at the same time period.

I really do not have the kind of thermal engineering background to be sure that the following comments are 100% correct, but I believe they are: 
An Amel is an unusually dry boat, however, one can change the original design and unintentionally create barriers that aid/cause moisture to form from condensation because of a difference in temperature. This is sometimes inadvertently done by modifying refrigeration or air conditioning, and I assume could be done by adding a non-breathing barrier to the ceiling where the outside temperature and inside temperature can merge to create condensation. I believe that I am correct when I say that most boat builders use materials that breathe in these situations (including the foam layer on the backside of the vinyl in an Amel).

I suggest recovering the ceiling with a foam-backed vinyl from a "trusted source."

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 9:17 AM Chip Beaman <chip@...> wrote:
Thank you Bill, I have read and spoke to folks about the daunting task of headliner replacement. To do it right, replacing the headliner is the right thing to do, I guess, that’s what I am trying to find out. The current owner did a fantastic job covering it and I love the look of it. My great concern, is mold growth in areas of higher humidity. Mold mitigation strategies are a given, regardless of the current liner solution. I just don’t know if it is a bridge to far to expect normal processes to keep mold from growing between the old liner and the covering material (painted plywood)???????
Thank you Sir for all you do.

Chip
Future Amel Owner






 

Stuart,

There could be several possible issues, but I suspect that if you are not losing water and only losing water pressure, there is a problem with the one-way valve on the freshwater pump. This valve is important to build pressure. When it is leaking, defective or blocked by debris, the pressure will not build and water pumped by the freshwater pump will return to the tank.

The one-way valve is a brass fitting on the output of the freshwater pump. It looks like a simple brass connector, but inside is a valve. The photo below isn't your exact setup, but similar.

I suggest finding the one-way valve and removing it for inspection. You did not say where you are located, but many plumbing shops will have this valve.

Again, everything above is based on the fact that you dod not say that you are losing water and that the pump is running continuously with some pressure on an outlet close to the pump. There could be several other possibilities...the above is my guess based on what you wrote.

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 8:09 PM Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:
Bill ,

Being a newcomer to the Amel Yacht Owners Group I am not sure yet how to post a question and so I hope you don’t mind uf I address it to you.

We have a lack of pressure in the two bathrooms and the fresh water pump runs continuously except when turned off on tbe 24v board.

There seems to be plenty of pressure on the transom shower.

Might there be a filter in the pump or a pressure switch at fault?

Stuart
  

Stuart Hemingway AA Dipl DMS RIBA


Symbiotic Relationships Ltd.,


 Grove Park Studios,

188-192 Sutton court Road,

Chiswick,

London,

W4 3HR

 

Telephone

From the UK  :    001 561 371 2321

From the US  :    561 371 2321


E . Studio@...

W. www.groveparkstudios.co.uk.


On 22 Feb 2020, at 11:50, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Chip,

I normally say something like, "trust the original design." But, "trust" is what got us to this point. I think Henri Amel trusted the polyfoam manufacturers to deliver a good product to the vinyl covering manufacturer. And, I believe that Henri Amel trusted the polyfoam backing on the headliner to last a lot longer, but so did most automobile manufacturers at the same time period.

I really do not have the kind of thermal engineering background to be sure that the following comments are 100% correct, but I believe they are: 
An Amel is an unusually dry boat, however, one can change the original design and unintentionally create barriers that aid/cause moisture to form from condensation because of a difference in temperature. This is sometimes inadvertently done by modifying refrigeration or air conditioning, and I assume could be done by adding a non-breathing barrier to the ceiling where the outside temperature and inside temperature can merge to create condensation. I believe that I am correct when I say that most boat builders use materials that breathe in these situations (including the foam layer on the backside of the vinyl in an Amel).

I suggest recovering the ceiling with a foam-backed vinyl from a "trusted source."

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar
cloudHQPowered by
cloudHQ


On Sat, Feb 22, 2020 at 9:17 AM Chip Beaman <chip@...> wrote:
Thank you Bill, I have read and spoke to folks about the daunting task of headliner replacement. To do it right, replacing the headliner is the right thing to do, I guess, that’s what I am trying to find out. The current owner did a fantastic job covering it and I love the look of it. My great concern, is mold growth in areas of higher humidity. Mold mitigation strategies are a given, regardless of the current liner solution. I just don’t know if it is a bridge to far to expect normal processes to keep mold from growing between the old liner and the covering material (painted plywood)???????
Thank you Sir for all you do.

Chip
Future Amel Owner






Joerg Esdorn
 

Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem

Paul Stascavage
 

Stuart,

Welcome to the forum my good friend. You will find a wealth of information here as well as some incredibly nice, knowledgeable, and helpful people.

Just an FYI. It is best if you include your boat name, model, hull number and location below your signature line. This information will assist those who respond as there are variations among models and hull numbers. Additionally, knowing your location someone can often suggest services of suppliers or contractors in your area.

All the Best,

Paul Stascavage
S/V Rita Kathryn SM #466

RitaKathryn.com

Currently Cruising Bahamas

 

Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:
  1. An open tap
  2. A break in the freshwater circuit
  3. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker
  4. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet
  5. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)
  6. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)
  7. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft
  8. A defective one-way valve 
  9. Debris in the one-way valve
  10. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch
        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.
        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater
        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater
        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

        I hope this clarification helps. I am sure that you understand the accuracy of remote diagnosis, especially with limited information.

        Best,

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
        View My Training Calendar
        cloudHQPowered by
        cloudHQ


        On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 8:45 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
        Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 Kincsem

        Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...>
         

         

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap 

        No

        1. A break in the freshwater circuit

        No

        1. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker

        Don’t believe so, how to check

        1. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet

        No

        1. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)

        No

        1. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)

        Recently checked by Amel Caraibe and found to be good

        1. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft

        Above

        1. A defective one-way valve 

        We have looked at this and it appears to be functioning as it should, it closes when you suck / blow

        1. Debris in the one-way valve

        As above

        1. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        How to check

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        It doesn’t look like these

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        Or these

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        The aluminium sleeve / raising piece that connected the fresh water tank guage to the tank disintegrated Amel Caraibe replaced this with a plastic piece. We have done our best to remove the debris but it is possible that there was some remaining.

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

        How is that adjusted please. The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

        Really appreciated Bill, we still need to find a cycle pump and try to pump the bladder up

         

         

         

         

         

        From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
        Sent: 23 February 2020 12:00
        To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
        Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A55: fresh water pump system

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap
        2. A break in the freshwater circuit
        3. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker
        4. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet
        5. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)
        6. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)
        7. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft
        8. A defective one-way valve 
        9. Debris in the one-way valve
        10. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

         

        I hope this clarification helps. I am sure that you understand the accuracy of remote diagnosis, especially with limited information.

         

        Best,

         

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

         

        View My Training Calendar

        cloudHQ

        Powered by
        cloudHQ

         

         

        On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 8:45 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

        Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 Kincsem

         

        IMPORTANT- Read this first
        You earlier said that the "fresh water pump runs continuously unless turned off." It may be running because it is not achieving the correct pressure, adjusting the pressure switch might correct the continued running, but it will not correct the correct pressure. I originally assumed that you either have an open leak, a closed leak. The closed leak would be water passing back through the one-way valve. However, if fresh water is not leaking into or out of the boat, it is most likely a suction leak that is causing the pump to malfunction. the suction side of the pump MUST be sealed. You cannot see a suction leak. Find the copper tube from the water tank and check it and the hose attached...check carefully all connections up to and including the fitting at the pump.

        To answer your questions:
        A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker - Check by removing the output hose from the valve to see water flow.
        Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch - Google SQUARE D PRESSURE SWITCH adjust. Don't try to adjust this unless experienced...AND...your symptoms do not indicate a need.
        The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.  1.6 bar is a little low, but not low enough to try to adjust the pressure switch unless you have read all of the material published and you are sure that you understand.



        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
        View My Training Calendar
        cloudHQPowered by
        cloudHQ


        On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 8:45 AM Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:

         

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap 

        No

        1. A break in the freshwater circuit

        No

        1. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker

        Don’t believe so, how to check

        1. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet

        No

        1. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)

        No

        1. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)

        Recently checked by Amel Caraibe and found to be good

        1. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft

        Above

        1. A defective one-way valve 

        We have looked at this and it appears to be functioning as it should, it closes when you suck / blow

        1. Debris in the one-way valve

        As above

        1. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        How to check

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        It doesn’t look like these

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        Or these

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        The aluminium sleeve / raising piece that connected the fresh water tank guage to the tank disintegrated Amel Caraibe replaced this with a plastic piece. We have done our best to remove the debris but it is possible that there was some remaining.

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

        How is that adjusted please. The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

        Really appreciated Bill, we still need to find a cycle pump and try to pump the bladder up

         

         

         

         

         

        From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
        Sent: 23 February 2020 12:00
        To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
        Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A55: fresh water pump system

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap
        2. A break in the freshwater circuit
        3. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker
        4. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet
        5. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)
        6. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)
        7. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft
        8. A defective one-way valve 
        9. Debris in the one-way valve
        10. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

         

        I hope this clarification helps. I am sure that you understand the accuracy of remote diagnosis, especially with limited information.

         

        Best,

         

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

         

        View My Training Calendar

        cloudHQ

        Powered by
        cloudHQ

         

         

        On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 8:45 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

        Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 Kincsem

        Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...>
         

        Hello again Bill, 

        We have noticed that the overflow is not overflowing when we fill the tank and it appears that the overflow is blocked in some way.

        If it is then this could , I presume , affect the pressure in the system.

        Is the overflow the forward , or aft , of these two outlets and what is the other one please.

        Stuart


        IMPORTANT- Read this first
        You earlier said that the "fresh water pump runs continuously unless turned off." It may be running because it is not achieving the correct pressure, adjusting the pressure switch might correct the continued running, but it will not correct the correct pressure. I originally assumed that you either have an open leak, a closed leak. The closed leak would be water passing back through the one-way valve. However, if fresh water is not leaking into or out of the boat, it is most likely a suction leak that is causing the pump to malfunction. the suction side of the pump MUST be sealed. You cannot see a suction leak. Find the copper tube from the water tank and check it and the hose attached...check carefully all connections up to and including the fitting at the pump.

        To answer your questions:
        A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker - Check by removing the output hose from the valve to see water flow.
        Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch - Google SQUARE D PRESSURE SWITCH adjust. Don't try to adjust this unless experienced...AND...your symptoms do not indicate a need.
        The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.  1.6 bar is a little low, but not low enough to try to adjust the pressure switch unless you have read all of the material published and you are sure that you understand.



        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
        View My Training Calendar
        cloudHQPowered by
        cloudHQ


        On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 8:45 AM Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:

         

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap 

        No

        1. A break in the freshwater circuit

        No

        1. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker

        Don’t believe so, how to check

        1. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet

        No

        1. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)

        No

        1. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)

        Recently checked by Amel Caraibe and found to be good

        1. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft

        Above

        1. A defective one-way valve 

        We have looked at this and it appears to be functioning as it should, it closes when you suck / blow

        1. Debris in the one-way valve

        As above

        1. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        How to check

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        It doesn’t look like these

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        Or these

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        The aluminium sleeve / raising piece that connected the fresh water tank guage to the tank disintegrated Amel Caraibe replaced this with a plastic piece. We have done our best to remove the debris but it is possible that there was some remaining.

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

        How is that adjusted please. The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

        Really appreciated Bill, we still need to find a cycle pump and try to pump the bladder up

         

         

         

         

         

        From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
        Sent: 23 February 2020 12:00
        To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
        Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A55: fresh water pump system

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap
        2. A break in the freshwater circuit
        3. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker
        4. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet
        5. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)
        6. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)
        7. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft
        8. A defective one-way valve 
        9. Debris in the one-way valve
        10. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

         

        I hope this clarification helps. I am sure that you understand the accuracy of remote diagnosis, especially with limited information.

         

        Best,

         

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

         

        View My Training Calendar

        cloudHQ

        Powered by
        cloudHQ

         

         

        On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 8:45 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

        Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 Kincsem

         

        Stewart,

        I am not sure. Maybe someone else will have experienced this.

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
        View My Training Calendar
        cloudHQPowered by
        cloudHQ


        On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 7:50 PM Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:
        Hello again Bill, 

        We have noticed that the overflow is not overflowing when we fill the tank and it appears that the overflow is blocked in some way.

        If it is then this could , I presume , affect the pressure in the system.

        Is the overflow the forward , or aft , of these two outlets and what is the other one please.

        Stuart


        IMPORTANT- Read this first
        You earlier said that the "fresh water pump runs continuously unless turned off." It may be running because it is not achieving the correct pressure, adjusting the pressure switch might correct the continued running, but it will not correct the correct pressure. I originally assumed that you either have an open leak, a closed leak. The closed leak would be water passing back through the one-way valve. However, if fresh water is not leaking into or out of the boat, it is most likely a suction leak that is causing the pump to malfunction. the suction side of the pump MUST be sealed. You cannot see a suction leak. Find the copper tube from the water tank and check it and the hose attached...check carefully all connections up to and including the fitting at the pump.

        To answer your questions:
        A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker - Check by removing the output hose from the valve to see water flow.
        Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch - Google SQUARE D PRESSURE SWITCH adjust. Don't try to adjust this unless experienced...AND...your symptoms do not indicate a need.
        The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.  1.6 bar is a little low, but not low enough to try to adjust the pressure switch unless you have read all of the material published and you are sure that you understand.



        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
        View My Training Calendar
        cloudHQPowered by
        cloudHQ


        On Mon, Feb 24, 2020 at 8:45 AM Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...> wrote:

         

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap 

        No

        1. A break in the freshwater circuit

        No

        1. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker

        Don’t believe so, how to check

        1. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet

        No

        1. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)

        No

        1. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)

        Recently checked by Amel Caraibe and found to be good

        1. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft

        Above

        1. A defective one-way valve 

        We have looked at this and it appears to be functioning as it should, it closes when you suck / blow

        1. Debris in the one-way valve

        As above

        1. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        How to check

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        It doesn’t look like these

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        Or these

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        The aluminium sleeve / raising piece that connected the fresh water tank guage to the tank disintegrated Amel Caraibe replaced this with a plastic piece. We have done our best to remove the debris but it is possible that there was some remaining.

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

        How is that adjusted please. The pressure was showing at 1.6 bar this morning whereas we understand that we require 1.8 / 2 bar.

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

        Really appreciated Bill, we still need to find a cycle pump and try to pump the bladder up

         

         

         

         

         

        From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
        Sent: 23 February 2020 12:00
        To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
        Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] A55: fresh water pump system

         

        Yes, the lack of flow is caused by a lack of sufficient pressure. In my experience, the lack of pressure can be caused by:

        1. An open tap
        2. A break in the freshwater circuit
        3. A defective solenoid rinse valve on the water maker
        4. Defective solenoid flush valves on any toilet
        5. Defective anchor wash valve on the anchor wash (freshwater option)
        6. A defective impeller in the freshwater pump. (this pump has a metal impeller)
        7. A broken key securing the impeller to the shaft
        8. A defective one-way valve 
        9. Debris in the one-way valve
        10. Defective or out of adjustment Pressure Switch

        1 - 5 will result in a loss of freshwater.

        6 & 7 will probably result in zero pressure and no loss of freshwater

        8 & 9 can result in no pressure to partial pressure with no loss of freshwater

        10 will probably not be your issue because you said the pump is running constantly with insufficient pressure

         

        Stuart, the reason I did not go into detail in my first response is that you did not mention any loss of freshwater. The accumulator tank allows your freshwater pump to cycle less and have longer non-running periods. The tank allows for the accumulation of water pressure because of an expandable internal bladder which is supported by air pressure on one side. If/when the internal bladder fails or air pressure supporting the bladder reduces, the pump will cycle more often.

         

        I hope this clarification helps. I am sure that you understand the accuracy of remote diagnosis, especially with limited information.

         

        Best,

         

        CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

        Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

         

        View My Training Calendar

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        On Sun, Feb 23, 2020 at 8:45 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

        Stuart, I would try the following if the pump runs continuously.  The cause is likely a lack of pressure in the Accumulator tank.  At the tank, there is a blue cover which you can remove and where you can hook up a bicycle pump.  Turn off the pump and pump it up so the pressure shown on the meter is 2 bar.  See pic.  I hope this helps!  

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 Kincsem

        Joerg Esdorn
         

        In my experience, there has to be nothing wrong to create this condition.   I’ve had this happen on my boat when I get back after many months away.  Or if the tank was run very low.   Pump up the tank and see whether it works.  Cheers. Joerg 

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 #53 Kincsem
        Vigo, Spain

        Stuart Hemingway <stuart@...>
         

        Hello Joerg,

        Do we remove the cap to fit the bike pump, (assuming there’s a nipple inside)

        Thank you ,

        Stuart



        Stuart Hemingway AA Dipl DMS RIBA


        Symbiotic Relationships Ltd.,


         Grove Park Studios,

        188-192 Sutton court Road,

        Chiswick,

        London,

        W4 3HR

         

        Telephone

        From the UK  :    001 561 371 2321

        From the US  :    561 371 2321


        E . Studio@...

        W. www.groveparkstudios.co.uk.


        On 25 Feb 2020, at 01:53, Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313@...> wrote:

        In my experience, there has to be nothing wrong to create this condition.   I’ve had this happen on my boat when I get back after many months away.  Or if the tank was run very low.   Pump up the tank and see whether it works.  Cheers. Joerg 

        Joerg Esdorn
        A55 #53 Kincsem
        Vigo, Spain