Topics

C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative


Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar


Craig Briggs
 

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


 

Rudi, 

I agree with Craig and let me add one other point. If the seals or O ring on the wear bushing are allowing water to pass, I am sure that an increased vacuum will increase the water passing through. I also believe based on the drawing below that the hose that you are referring to would only allow you to pull oil out to the level of the hose fitting just under the top of the C-Drive.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 12:22 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


 

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Dan Carlson
 

Hello Ruedi, I did have some slight milky color just after changing my seals a previous time.  I don't think they seated properly right away.  First I drained and cleaned our the reservoir well. Then filled it with clean oil. Then I sucked about a liter of the bad oil that comes off of the small "return" line and attaches to the top of the reservoir. I did this twice and that removed some of the milky oil (can't be much as there are 8+ liters in the system).

I can tell you that the water did settle out of what I removed after a few days.  I repeated this twice when the drive was heated up and the oil was mixed up. Then after that it remained clear.  I was using the boat regularly during the next 6 months living aboard in the Caribbean. At the end of the season when I pulled the boat and drained the c-drive only the first liter or so out of the bottom of the drive appeared to have some residual water.  The seals appeared to be in perfect condition.  

I think in my case I only had a small initial contamination and once the seals seated well then there was no subsequent leaking. 

I wish someone could provide a clear explanation of how the oil circulates?  I was able to watch as the drive heated up with use that there was milky oil coming in the return line at the top of the reservoir. There is also a filter screen in the middle of the reservoir that appears to trap some of the water that settles out. For something so important and so discussed I've not seen a good explanation of that. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387





On Thu, Oct 15, 2020, 12:11 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
Thank you for the diagram showing the way the seals should face, exactly correct. My old school Tunisia mechanic explained this to me in detail when I told him I know how after watching the Delos video.
He went into detail even about how to increase the spring tension to make sure that the seals worked.
Having been forced by Covid-19 restrictions to stay here in Martinique at the Amel Caribbean base I am benefiting from help and advice from the Amel manager Alban and getting lots of things bought up to spec.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 18:04, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Craig Briggs
 

A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


 

The answer to the seal orientation of the 3 seals is very simple.

You have 3 seals.
You need to keep the oil in and the water out.
If you had two seals, the answer is clear: one for each.

But, with 3 seals, you should decide which of the following is most important to you:
- Keeping oil in the C-Drive - if this is your priority, Henri Amel agrees with you and so do I - use 2 seals to protect from losing oil
- Keeping water out of the C-Drive - if the is your priority, Henri and I will question your logic, but use 2 seals to protect from water entering.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 6:12 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Craig Briggs
 

Well said, Bill.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

HI Daniel and Lori
Thanks for sharing your experience and the explanation
Best regards
Ruedi & Sabina, sv WASABI A54#55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Dan Carlson <carlsdan61@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Freitag, 16. Oktober 2020 um 00:05
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hello Ruedi, I did have some slight milky color just after changing my seals a previous time.  I don't think they seated properly right away.  First I drained and cleaned our the reservoir well. Then filled it with clean oil. Then I sucked about a liter of the bad oil that comes off of the small "return" line and attaches to the top of the reservoir. I did this twice and that removed some of the milky oil (can't be much as there are 8+ liters in the system).

I can tell you that the water did settle out of what I removed after a few days.  I repeated this twice when the drive was heated up and the oil was mixed up. Then after that it remained clear.  I was using the boat regularly during the next 6 months living aboard in the Caribbean. At the end of the season when I pulled the boat and drained the c-drive only the first liter or so out of the bottom of the drive appeared to have some residual water.  The seals appeared to be in perfect condition.  

I think in my case I only had a small initial contamination and once the seals seated well then there was no subsequent leaking. 

I wish someone could provide a clear explanation of how the oil circulates?  I was able to watch as the drive heated up with use that there was milky oil coming in the return line at the top of the reservoir. There is also a filter screen in the middle of the reservoir that appears to trap some of the water that settles out. For something so important and so discussed I've not seen a good explanation of that. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387





On Thu, Oct 15, 2020, 12:11 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Thanks Craig, your message is relaxing me. ;-)

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. Oktober 2020 um 19:22
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Porter McRoberts
 

Re milky oil: also for us just now, the oil seemed very slightly milky after an oil change in NZ about 50 hours ago. Now after about another 10 hours all seems fine. I also would love an explanation of the circulatory system!  

Porter 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Oct 17, 2020, at 9:12 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:


Thanks Craig, your message is relaxing me. ;-)

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. Oktober 2020 um 19:22
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Craig Briggs
 

Hi Porter et al,
There is no "circulating system" in the "C" drive like an engine has with an oil pump and channels and holes for for pressurized oil flow. It's just a hollow structure around the gears and bearings that creates a bath of oil. The hoses at the top simply allow for expansion into the reservoir as the oil warms slightly and, while there may be minor circulation of oil due to convection, that's just incidental. Pretty much analogous to the lower unit of a 2-cycle outboard... 
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Porter McRoberts
 

Thanks Craig. 

So it’s entirely possible we had a small ingress of seawater while the seals “seated,” and that settles at the lowest point in the system, certainly not in the reservoir/expansion tank (and thus not seen). The key for me going forward, it would seem, would be to keep an eye on the volume of the reserve, if it increases...the ingress likely continues.   
I’m trying to think of the tank height relative to waterline, I think it’s slightly above, which if the densities of these two fluids were the same would result in relative positive pressure of the system compared to the seawater. Is the key to the ingress problem that the oil is significantly less dense and so even with the column above the waterline, there remains a relative tendency of ingress vs egress?  Does anyone ever “loose oil?”  

This should be at the crux of the seal orientation debate I would think. 

Thankfully, still lubricious,

Porter 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Oct 18, 2020, at 4:20 AM, Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Porter et al,
There is no "circulating system" in the "C" drive like an engine has with an oil pump and channels and holes for for pressurized oil flow. It's just a hollow structure around the gears and bearings that creates a bath of oil. The hoses at the top simply allow for expansion into the reservoir as the oil warms slightly and, while there may be minor circulation of oil due to convection, that's just incidental. Pretty much analogous to the lower unit of a 2-cycle outboard... 
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Craig Briggs
 
Edited

Hi Porter,

There may be some other factors at play: 
- Not just density of water and oil, but one may need to consider emulsified oil/water as a third player. Mine has been like grease and sinks under water.
- the oil reservoir tank being about 1 foot above the water line (at least on my SN and likely your 54) gives the oil a "head" vs the water, so at the lip seal that would offset the density difference to some degree. Picture a ten foot tall pipe full of oil immersed in a bucket of water; even though the oil is less dense it will "leak" out into the water.
- the wipers on the seals are designed to microscopically "pump" the fluid being retained back where it came from. That's why your drive shaft into the top of the "C" drive isn't oily. At the same time, if there's fluid on the outside, the seal will tend to "pump" it to the inside. This, if I recall, is the crux of José Venegas' recommendation for water-water-oil.  That is, keep "pumping" water away from the oil, which does allow a miniscule amount of oil through before the outside oil-facing seal "pumps" it all back, lubricating all 3 seals to prevent scoring of the bronze wearing-out-bearing.  

As to "losing oil", I think if the seals were really shot it could be possible (and you'd likely see a slick around the boat). More likely, if the reservoir is down it's either a normal temperature expansion/contraction or, perhaps an initial underfill with some air working its way out. More likely, it is "gaining oil" as water is "pumped" into the lower unit.

Finally, can only guess, but seeing a small bit of "milk" after changing lip seals could, I suppose, be an initial "seating" of the seals, but perhaps more likely it is just some emulsified water/oil getting flushed free by the fresh oil that was added. That's why I rinse everything with diesel fuel, run the engine in gear and drain a couple of times before adding fresh oil.

That being said, I have hauled every three years for 20 years and always had some milkyness at the end. I'm curious to see if having adopted José's water-water-oil last March will keep me milk free - so far so good.
Cheers,
Craig --
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


eric freedman
 

If you look at the drawing of the drive, the drain hole is slightly above the forward end of the bottom reservoir.
Unless you put a small pump hose in the drain hole there will always be a bit of emulsified oil there.
The few times I had water in the oil, I drained the C drive. sucked out the remaining oil/water.
I then put diesel in the drive. Let it sit for a while drained it , pumped out the balance and let it dry- drain for a bit,' Then new seals and Gear Oil.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm 376

On October 18, 2020 at 2:53 PM "Craig Briggs via groups.io" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Hi Porter,

There may be some other factors at play: 
- Not just density of water and oil, but one may need to consider emulsified oil/water as a third player. Mine has been like grease and sinks under water.
- the oil reservoir tank being about 1 foot above the water line (at least on my SN and likely your 54) gives the oil a "head" vs the water, so at the lip seal that would offset the density difference to some degree. Picture a ten foot tall pipe full of oil immersed in a bucket of water; even though the oil is less dense it will "leak" out into the water.
- the wipers on the seals are designed to microscopically "pump" the fluid being retained back where it came from. That's why your drive shaft into the top of the "C" drive isn't oily. At the same time, if there's fluid on the outside, the seal will tend to "pump" it to the inside. This, if I recall, is the crux of José Venegas' recommendation for water-water-oil.  That is, keep "pumping" water away from the oil, which does allow a miniscule amount of oil through before the outside oil-facing seal "pumps" it all back, lubricating all 3 seals to prevent scoring of the bronze wearing-out-bearing.  

As to "losing oil", I think if the seals were really shot it could be possible (and you'd likely see a slick around the boat). More likely, if the reservoir is down it's either a normal temperature expansion or contraction or, perhaps an initial underfill with some air working its way out. More likely, is "gaining oil" as water is "pumped" into the lower unit.

Finally, can only guess, but seeing a small bit of "milk" after changing lip seals could, I suppose, be an initial "seating" of the seals, but perhaps more likely it is just some emulsified water/oil getting flushed free by the fresh oil that was added. That's why I rise everything with diesel fuel, run the engine and drain a couple of times before adding fresh oil.

That being said, I have hauled every three years for 20 years and always had some milky ness at the end. I'm curious to see if having adopted José's water-water-oil last March will keep me milk free - so far so good.
Cheers,
Craig --
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

 


Gary Silver
 
Edited

I can confirm what Eric has said about their being residual oil / emulsion in  the bottom  of the C-drive.  I use a 60 ml irrigating syringe with a short piece of tubing inserted thru the drain plug hole to suck this residual solution out  of this area.  The tubing usually has a natural curve to it from being coiled and will go naturally into the lowest part of the C-drive.  By cutting the tubing on a bevel on the lower portion  of the  tube I can usually suck out at least 120 ml of residual solution.  I then use solvent to flush the area using the same tubing and again aspirate as much as I can.  Lastly,  I use a surgical "tail sponge"  inserted thru the drain plug hole to "dry" this "sump" area.  A long piece of lint free material would serve the same purpose.

Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona
on the hard in Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico