Topics

Companion way for removal

smiles bernard
 

Hello

In a big downpour in the way back home to via Azores we had heavy driving rain from the rear and some made its way inside via the companion way lifting door

I think it was running down the outer face of the door then finding its way inside under the companionway steps.

I’ve seen a number of threads about resealing the companion way door but I’m still unsure how to remove it

The ply veneer on ours needs some love so I was thinking of removing the door, sorting the veneer and seal at the same time

Any hints or tips re door removal and resealing much appreciated

All the best

Miles
Maramu #162
Plymouth uk

Scott SV Tengah
 

Hi Miles,

I just did this job. Assuming the Maramu is similar to the A54, you just need to remove the small rectangular sheet of plywood that keeps the door from going too low. With it removed, you can drop the door far enough to replace the weather seal. I went nuts and removed the companionway steps - this is unnecessary unless you want to clean behind them while you're at it!

If you close the door from the inside and look near the bottom of the door, there should be screws and bolts securing a rectangular piece of plywood, which itself is behind/aft of the companionway door. On ours, it's held by 3 wood screws and 2 bolts. Careful with the bolts as they have tiny nuts which you may lose as you're removing them.

We just sanded the veneer with the door in-situ. If you want to remove the door completely, I think you need to remove the hard dodger. Hope this helps. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

eric freedman
 

Hi Miles,

I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate.

To get to the entire door off  you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY--

I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim.

Using these rails and a router I was able to get to  the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica.

Pictures attached.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 1:07 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Hi Miles,

I just did this job. Assuming the Maramu is similar to the A54, you just need to remove the small rectangular sheet of plywood that keeps the door from going too low. With it removed, you can drop the door far enough to replace the weather seal. I went nuts and removed the companionway steps - this is unnecessary unless you want to clean behind them while you're at it!

If you close the door from the inside and look near the bottom of the door, there should be screws and bolts securing a rectangular piece of plywood, which itself is behind/aft of the companionway door. On ours, it's held by 3 wood screws and 2 bolts. Careful with the bolts as they have tiny nuts which you may lose as you're removing them.

We just sanded the veneer with the door in-situ. If you want to remove the door completely, I think you need to remove the hard dodger. Hope this helps. 

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Thomas Kleman
 

Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?

eric freedman
 

Hi,

To apply laminate contact cement is used. Please remember to let both  surfaces dry before joining the laminate to the door,

When the two touch they cannot be separated, be careful.. I chose Formica brand laminate only because it looks closest to teak here in the USA. Just pick the one that you like, they are all basically the same. Just be sure to get the thicker variety of the laminate. Although the look is identical they often come in a very thin and a thicker style.

Fair Winds

Eric

sm

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2019 11:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?

Ian Townsend
 

We used this veneer, ordered through Amazon. 

On Oct 14, 2019, at 2:30 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

To apply laminate contact cement is used. Please remember to let both  surfaces dry before joining the laminate to the door,

When the two touch they cannot be separated, be careful.. I chose Formica brand laminate only because it looks closest to teak here in the USA. Just pick the one that you like, they are all basically the same. Just be sure to get the thicker variety of the laminate. Although the look is identical they often come in a very thin and a thicker style.

Fair Winds

Eric

sm

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2019 11:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?

 

Ian,

I read that the product you used has a paper backing. Was this removed for installation?
What did you use for glue or cement? 
Were you able to get the new veneer between the door and the outside trim?

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 2:09 AM Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:
We used this veneer, ordered through Amazon. 

On Oct 14, 2019, at 2:30 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

To apply laminate contact cement is used. Please remember to let both  surfaces dry before joining the laminate to the door,

When the two touch they cannot be separated, be careful.. I chose Formica brand laminate only because it looks closest to teak here in the USA. Just pick the one that you like, they are all basically the same. Just be sure to get the thicker variety of the laminate. Although the look is identical they often come in a very thin and a thicker style.

Fair Winds

Eric

sm

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2019 11:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?

Ian Townsend
 

Paper not removed. We used contact cement. We did not remove the door. We spent lots of time making sure of the fit so that it could be cut right to the trim on the top and the sides. We were extremely careful with the placement. Of course, the bottom edge did not matter as we had cut it so it went below the gap/weatherproofing. Also, as with all veneer, the rolling is critical. 


Ian & Margaret
S/V Loca Lola II 
SM153
US East Coast

On Oct 14, 2019, at 5:04 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Ian,

I read that the product you used has a paper backing. Was this removed for installation?
What did you use for glue or cement? 
Were you able to get the new veneer between the door and the outside trim?

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 2:09 AM Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:
We used this veneer, ordered through Amazon. 

On Oct 14, 2019, at 2:30 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Hi,

To apply laminate contact cement is used. Please remember to let both  surfaces dry before joining the laminate to the door,

When the two touch they cannot be separated, be careful.. I chose Formica brand laminate only because it looks closest to teak here in the USA. Just pick the one that you like, they are all basically the same. Just be sure to get the thicker variety of the laminate. Although the look is identical they often come in a very thin and a thicker style.

Fair Winds

Eric

sm

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Sent: Sunday, October 13, 2019 11:05 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?

scentstone
 

Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial, 
Thank you Ian for the alternative product
Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions.

Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable…
Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. 
If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images.
Kind regards
FF

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

The other alternative is to replace the companionway door.  Take measurements for height then section the door with a saw and remove the pieces.  Select a wood of your choice and using the existing door as template for width and thickness, match the Amel door very closely, fabricate the sections and glue in place.  In our case we used teak. 
--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Michael Mueller
 

Nice Job Mark and Debbie,

is there a reason why you choose to run the wood fiber structure horizontal and not vertical?
I assume it was done be the wood shop you had mentioned before.

Sorry I missed you in Annapolis.

kind regards
Michael & Robyn
RIPPLE SM2K #417

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

The horizontal orientation was primarily personal preference from the customary way companionway hatches have traditionally been fabricated; when they had to be removed and stowed.  Also, if someone was intent on breaking in the strength of the assembly is far stronger in the horizontal configuration.  Discounting the inability to remove the hatch the Amel method of sliding the hatch down and leaving it in place is nice.

PS - The authorities announced yesterday the overturned car carrier at St. Simons is going to be sectioned and removed in pieces.

--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54

Alan Grayson
 

We just painted ours. Epoxy filler, Epoxy primer and awlgrip topcoat. Nordic white
Regards
Alan Grayson
SM 406 Ora Pai
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of scentstone <scentstone@...>
Sent: Monday, 14 October 2019 3:45:09 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal
 
Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial, 
Thank you Ian for the alternative product
Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions.

Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable…
Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. 
If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images.
Kind regards
FF

eric freedman
 

Hi FF,

Kimberlite has been underwater during our time in a hurricane for 36 hours. Nothing but the masts sticking up out of the water. I think we stopped counting at 20. The laminate is still strongly in place with no problems with the companionway.

I believe the laminate is at least 9 years old.

Fair Winds

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of scentstone
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 11:45 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial, 
Thank you Ian for the alternative product
Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions.

Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable…
Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. 
If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images.
Kind regards
FF

karkauai
 

Has anyone thought about replacing the door with a piece of Lexan or plexiglass?  Maybe a teak frame with clear plastic insert?

It would require some thought to make it seal well when closed and NOT scratch the plastic when sliding up and down.

Sure would be nice to have more light.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM 243

On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:50 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



Hi FF,

Kimberlite has been underwater during our time in a hurricane for 36 hours. Nothing but the masts sticking up out of the water. I think we stopped counting at 20. The laminate is still strongly in place with no problems with the companionway.

I believe the laminate is at least 9 years old.

Fair Winds

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of scentstone
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 11:45 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial, 
Thank you Ian for the alternative product
Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions.

Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable…
Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. 
If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images.
Kind regards
FF

Paul Brown
 

Of course from the 55 production the door is plexiglass with a stainless frame of top and front sliders and allows lots of light

Perhaps Amel could assist with a production or a design for a retrofit to earlier models

Regards, Paul - Fortuna 55/17

 Sent from my iPhone

On 15 Oct 2019, at 14:57, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Has anyone thought about replacing the door with a piece of Lexan or plexiglass?  Maybe a teak frame with clear plastic insert?

It would require some thought to make it seal well when closed and NOT scratch the plastic when sliding up and down.

Sure would be nice to have more light.

Kent & Iris
Kristy
SM 243

On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:50 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:



Hi FF,

Kimberlite has been underwater during our time in a hurricane for 36 hours. Nothing but the masts sticking up out of the water. I think we stopped counting at 20. The laminate is still strongly in place with no problems with the companionway.

I believe the laminate is at least 9 years old.

Fair Winds

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of scentstone
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 11:45 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal

 

Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial, 
Thank you Ian for the alternative product
Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions.

Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable…
Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. 
If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images.
Kind regards
FF

INUS - BUSCH
 

Hi Eric,
you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. 
I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching?
All the best
Dieter
Fal-lera Sharki #135


Am 13.10.2019 um 04:10 schrieb eric freedman <kimberlite@...>:

Hi Miles,

I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate.

To get to the entire door off  you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY--

I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim.

Using these rails and a router I was able to get to  the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica.

Pictures attached.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris
 

Hi Kent,
We put in Plexiglas years ago. It's absolutely fantastic for brightening the cabin (you may recall seeing it). For privacy in a marina at night we have a simple finished piece of upholstery material that hangs by loops on the hatch knobs.
Removed the seal and the small gap (~1/16") left is never an issue - what little water enters when washing the cockpit or driving rain simply drains out as designed. (Haven't played submarine in a hurricane like Eric, though, but I'm confident it would not be an issue.) Removed the dodger to install it.
Cheers, Craig

scentstone
 

Thank you Eric for the clarification… very interesting.

Craig, can you please, if you remenber, tell us how difficult was the dodger removal/lift up and how did you proceed?

Thank you to Atlan and Mark and all others for sharing experience
F.

Craig Briggs SN 68 Sangaris
 
Edited

Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way".  What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.

First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force.  Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish)  in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel.  I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all.

Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds.

If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. 

The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time.  That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. 

Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it!

Cheers, Craig