Companion way for removal
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smiles bernard
Hello
In a big downpour in the way back home to via Azores we had heavy driving rain from the rear and some made its way inside via the companion way lifting door I think it was running down the outer face of the door then finding its way inside under the companionway steps. I’ve seen a number of threads about resealing the companion way door but I’m still unsure how to remove it The ply veneer on ours needs some love so I was thinking of removing the door, sorting the veneer and seal at the same time Any hints or tips re door removal and resealing much appreciated All the best Miles Maramu #162 Plymouth uk
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Scott SV Tengah
Hi Miles,
I just did this job. Assuming the Maramu is similar to the A54, you just need to remove the small rectangular sheet of plywood that keeps the door from going too low. With it removed, you can drop the door far enough to replace the weather seal. I went nuts and removed the companionway steps - this is unnecessary unless you want to clean behind them while you're at it! If you close the door from the inside and look near the bottom of the door, there should be screws and bolts securing a rectangular piece of plywood, which itself is behind/aft of the companionway door. On ours, it's held by 3 wood screws and 2 bolts. Careful with the bolts as they have tiny nuts which you may lose as you're removing them. We just sanded the veneer with the door in-situ. If you want to remove the door completely, I think you need to remove the hard dodger. Hope this helps. -- Scott 2007 A54 #69 SV Tengah http://www.svtengah.com
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eric freedman
Hi Miles, I wanted to replace the veneer on Kimberlites companionway and replace it with laminate. To get to the entire door off you have to remove the hard dodger.—NO WAY-- I removed the stop and blocked the companionway door all the way up till it touched the dodger. I then made a rail the height of the side trim. Using these rails and a router I was able to get to the edges of the door. Of course the veneer that is under the trim cannot be replaced but it cannot be seen. I then routed the entire door and applied the laminate- I used Formica brand color teak. Seven years and it is still holding up. However it is important to use wax to block the UV on the Formica. Pictures attached. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Scott SV Tengah
Hi Miles,
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Thomas Kleman
Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?
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eric freedman
Hi, To apply laminate contact cement is used. Please remember to let both surfaces dry before joining the laminate to the door, When the two touch they cannot be separated, be careful.. I chose Formica brand laminate only because it looks closest to teak here in the USA. Just pick the one that you like, they are all basically the same. Just be sure to get the thicker variety of the laminate. Although the look is identical they often come in a very thin and a thicker style. Fair Winds Eric sm
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Thomas Kleman
Eric- that looks awesome and has inspired us to put this project on the list. Can you describe the glue you used and did you consider any other faux veneers ?
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We used this veneer, ordered through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCTWSX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ian & Margaret S/V Loca Lola II SM153 US East Coast
On Oct 14, 2019, at 2:30 AM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:
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Ian, I read that the product you used has a paper backing. Was this removed for installation? What did you use for glue or cement? Were you able to get the new veneer between the door and the outside trim? --
On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 2:09 AM Ian Townsend <smlocalola@...> wrote:
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Paper not removed. We used contact cement. We did not remove the door. We spent lots of time making sure of the fit so that it could be cut right to the trim on the top and the sides. We were extremely careful with the placement. Of course, the bottom edge did not matter as we had cut it so it went below the gap/weatherproofing. Also, as with all veneer, the rolling is critical. Ian & Margaret S/V Loca Lola II SM153 US East Coast
On Oct 14, 2019, at 5:04 PM, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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scentstone
Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial,
Thank you Ian for the alternative product Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions. Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable… Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images. Kind regards FF
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Mark & Debbie Mueller
The other alternative is to replace the companionway door. Take measurements for height then section the door with a saw and remove the pieces. Select a wood of your choice and using the existing door as template for width and thickness, match the Amel door very closely, fabricate the sections and glue in place. In our case we used teak.
-- Mark Mueller Brass Ring A54
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Michael Mueller
Nice Job Mark and Debbie,
is there a reason why you choose to run the wood fiber structure horizontal and not vertical? I assume it was done be the wood shop you had mentioned before. Sorry I missed you in Annapolis. kind regards Michael & Robyn RIPPLE SM2K #417
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Mark & Debbie Mueller
The horizontal orientation was primarily personal preference from the customary way companionway hatches have traditionally been fabricated; when they had to be removed and stowed. Also, if someone was intent on breaking in the strength of the assembly is far stronger in the horizontal configuration. Discounting the inability to remove the hatch the Amel method of sliding the hatch down and leaving it in place is nice.
PS - The authorities announced yesterday the overturned car carrier at St. Simons is going to be sectioned and removed in pieces. -- Mark Mueller Brass Ring A54
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Alan Grayson
We just painted ours. Epoxy filler, Epoxy primer and awlgrip topcoat. Nordic white
Regards Alan Grayson SM 406 Ora Pai From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of scentstone <scentstone@...>
Sent: Monday, 14 October 2019 3:45:09 PM To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Companion way for removal Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial,
Thank you Ian for the alternative product Thank you Bill for the very insightful questions. Even if there was some previous threads about this subject in the forum, we all need to clarify the most secure way to replace the veneer using a wood product and placing it also under the external guides because, in some rough conditions, if the job isn't made in using a single sheet properly glued, it can drive to a blocked companionway after sometime in bad weather which is highly undesirable… Ian, may be have you some images and a more detailed process and we can start here to make a detailed how-to. If we succeed, I'll update my external veener and post here also the details and images. Kind regards FF
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eric freedman
Hi FF, Kimberlite has been underwater during our time in a hurricane for 36 hours. Nothing but the masts sticking up out of the water. I think we stopped counting at 20. The laminate is still strongly in place with no problems with the companionway. I believe the laminate is at least 9 years old. Fair Winds
Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of scentstone
Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial,
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Has anyone thought about replacing the door with a piece of Lexan or plexiglass? Maybe a teak frame with clear plastic insert?
It would require some thought to make it seal well when closed and NOT scratch the plastic when sliding up and down. Sure would be nice to have more light. Kent & Iris Kristy SM 243 On Oct 14, 2019, at 8:50 PM, eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote: Hi FF, Kimberlite has been underwater during our time in a hurricane for 36 hours. Nothing but the masts sticking up out of the water. I think we stopped counting at 20. The laminate is still strongly in place with no problems with the companionway. I believe the laminate is at least 9 years old. Fair Winds
Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of scentstone
Thank you Eric for the first extensive tutorial,
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Of course from the 55 production the door is plexiglass with a stainless frame of top and front sliders and allows lots of light
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Perhaps Amel could assist with a production or a design for a retrofit to earlier models Regards, Paul - Fortuna 55/17 Sent from my iPhone
On 15 Oct 2019, at 14:57, karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...> wrote:
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INUS - BUSCH
Hi Eric,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
you mention the use of wax to block the UV on the Formica. I am curious what wax did you use and also if it can be used to prevent the gelcoat from bleaching? All the best Dieter Fal-lera Sharki #135
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Hi Kent,
We put in Plexiglas years ago. It's absolutely fantastic for brightening the cabin (you may recall seeing it). For privacy in a marina at night we have a simple finished piece of upholstery material that hangs by loops on the hatch knobs. Removed the seal and the small gap (~1/16") left is never an issue - what little water enters when washing the cockpit or driving rain simply drains out as designed. (Haven't played submarine in a hurricane like Eric, though, but I'm confident it would not be an issue.) Removed the dodger to install it. Cheers, Craig
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scentstone
Thank you Eric for the clarification… very interesting.
Craig, can you please, if you remenber, tell us how difficult was the dodger removal/lift up and how did you proceed? Thank you to Atlan and Mark and all others for sharing experience F.
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Our dodger was, indeed, well bedded to the deck. I'm sure everyone's is - it's the "AMEL Way". What I did was to VERY carefully, using a fish filleting knife, insert it under the dodger to cut the caulk. That is a CAPITAL LETTERS VERY CAREFULLY! You may come up a better tool but it must be very sharp, very thin and very strong.
First though, I rigged a line to a halyard with some snatch blocks to the mizzen to make it lift straight up from the dodger, then led it through the windshield opening window and applied a LOT of lifting force. Then I went to the filet knife and started cutting. After a while I saw some movement and then used some chisels as wedges to break the seal more and it finally worked. I had three tiny nicks (about 1/8th inch roundish) in the deck gelcoat at some places in the base of the dodger where I was not careful enough with the chisel. I patched them and they are not visible now. This took about 3 hours to do. You should take 4 hours and not nick the gelcoat at all. Once the dodger popped free it is easy-peasy. There is wire through the deck in the middle of the dodger going to the overhead light but it has enough slack (about 6 inches) so you can easily tilt and swing the dodger to allow the companionway hatch to slide up and out. Re-bedding was very easy. I just used silicone so if I need to take it off again it will be easy, but you can take your pick of bedding compounds. If I recall correctly, I did this about 2004 and the Plexiglas (Perspex in Europe?) is still in excellent condition. It does have a couple of barely noticeable vertical scratches where I must have been careless with not cleaning off some boatyard grit, but, it's hardly noticeable and hey, we're talking 15 years!. The one thing that isn't perfect is that I chose a plexiglass with a very light grey tint that seemed like a good idea at the time. That's great, as during the day it looks like a black mirror from the outside, giving complete privacy below - at night with lights on below you can see right through, hence the hanging privacy shade. During the day, though, if the hatch is closed and exposed to direct sunlight it heats up and expands such that it binds in the track and is hard to open or close. Just a small annoyance, but if I did it again I might choose totally clear plexiglass and maybe a fraction thinner. Or, and it's one of those "one-of-these-years" things, I might just sand the wood slots a bit wider but, obviously, it's not a big deal. We've got a great "T-Top" over the cockpit so sun on the plexiglass is rare. Katherine and I think it is one of the best modifications we made to the boat and we did not do it until we had lived aboard for 5 years, so we did think it out thoroughly. Then, after we did it we hired a psychic who put us in touch with "The Captain" - the psychic said that he was smiling! That's our story and we're stickin' to it! Cheers, Craig
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