Topics

Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

Hi All

I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:

  • Changing engine mounts
  • Changing the Vetus rubber coupling parts
  • Replacing an oil seal/gasket on the flywheel bell housing (it's very leaky!). 

I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:

  • What engine mounts are used on SM 97's with a TMD 22 engine - there seems to be plenty of discussion on the subject but no definitive answer?
  • How exactly does the alignment tool (designed by Eric Freedman I think) work in practice? 
  • There is a bit of discussion about 'the trick' to avoid cutting the heads off the coupling bolts - how does this work in practice? 
Anything else you think I should consider while it's all apart? I have the added complication of a prop alternator fitted to the shaft by the way :/

Thanks in advance!

Woody
SM'97

Porter McRoberts
 

A quick question to all:
We also need to unmount our new Volvo to replace a seal on the c-drive.  

My question: Boat is currently out of the water and would be easy to do.  Should re-allignment of the motor occur in water? Or since we have a rail, is it ok to do on land? I had been told previously that with most sailboats motors must be aligned only in the water secondary to hull flex.  Is that also the case with our 54?  It seems to be very stiff, and then there the engine rail mount system.

Many thanks, 

Porter McRoberts 
A54-152 IBIS


On Feb 7, 2020, at 10:06 AM, Alan Woody Wood <woody@...> wrote:

Hi All

I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:

  • Changing engine mounts
  • Changing the Vetus rubber coupling parts
  • Replacing an oil seal/gasket on the flywheel bell housing (it's very leaky!). 

I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:

  • What engine mounts are used on SM 97's with a TMD 22 engine - there seems to be plenty of discussion on the subject but no definitive answer?
  • How exactly does the alignment tool (designed by Eric Freedman I think) work in practice? 
  • There is a bit of discussion about 'the trick' to avoid cutting the heads off the coupling bolts - how does this work in practice? 
Anything else you think I should consider while it's all apart? I have the added complication of a prop alternator fitted to the shaft by the way :/

Thanks in advance!

Woody
SM'97

<Vetus decoupling.jpg>

Herbert Lackner
 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120

Alan "Woody" Wood
 

Thanks for the reply Herbert.

I’m new to this job and still unsure exactly how the alignment tool works. Could you give a brief description perhaps? 

Also any idea of the model of engine mounts?

Thanks..

eric freedman
 

Hi Herbert,

Being that the disk brake has a long hub on it , I believe the normal alignment tool will work. The length of the hub on the brake disk compensates for the pulley on the alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Herbert Lackner
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2020 11:43 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

Woody,

having the Amel shaft alternator you should make the "alignment tool" longer as you have to take away the shaft alternator pulley for doing the alignment. It works if you have the tool according to the spec that you find in the forum, but if I would do it again I would add the width of the pulley to the length of the tool, would make the alignment much easier.  the process for the alignment itself is easy, in the water or on the hard, and you find all relevant information in the forum.

I had problems to get the vetus coupling of the drive-shaft, but with a hammer, a big puller and a lot of time it worked.

herbert, SN120

Herbert Lackner
 

attached you find the fotos of the alignment tool with the shaft alternator.  it works, - but if I would build the tool again I would make it longer.

fair winds, herbert

Herbert Lackner
 

Woody,  search for "alignment" in the forum and you will find a lot of information, also what kind of mounts you need

a summary with info from Olivier:
 

in order to re-align your engine with the C-drive, you need a fixed coupling as on the pictures and drawing.

You don't need to install the shaft alternator pulley while checking alignment. 

 

Before touching the tools, make pictures and take notes (measurements of all the fittings, position of the nuts on the rubber mounts, position of the engine on the steel cradle, position of the shaft brake disc, etc...).

Start with disconnecting the hoses that could prevent you from moving the engine backwards on its cradle.

Then undo the coupling bolts and the engine steel supports' bolts (attaching the engine on the steel cradle).

Then move the engine backwards enough to remove the coupling bolts.

 

Then comes the alignment process.

AMEL uses a tool which is a steel coupling machined so that its aft side "enters" the gear-box flange (see pictures and drawing). You can also pre-install the new coupling and adjust the position of the mounts.

First bring the engine forward and make sure the coupling is centered with the gear-box flange, and can enter the gap in the flange. 

Then move the engine a little bit backwards and check that the gap between the flange and the aft side of the coupler is even all around the circumference. To adjust this, you need "thickness wedges" (used in the automotive industry) and play with the rubber mounts nuts to make the gap even.

Then bring the engine forward and tighten the bolts on the cradle and on the mounts.

 

The advantage of using the tool AMEL uses is that it is easier to install while checking the gaps.

If you need to make one, here's a drawing of the alignment tool for a YANMAR 4JH3-HTE.

The inside diameter (C-drive input shaft) is 35 mm.

The outside diameter is 100 mm.

The diameter of the part that enters the gear-box flange cylindric gap is 62.8 mm, thickness 3 mm.

 

You should use a VETUS fixed coupling for 35mm shafts, then have it machined to make the 62.8mm "plug" and drilled for the four bolts that should match the flange holes.


The process is the same for Santorins or for Super Maramus.


more info from me: 
* Amel does not sell the alignment tool, I had it made by a machine shop from Aluminium
* I would change also the C-Drive mounts when you change the engine mounts.
* Make sure that the c-drive is "open" and "sits on his rubber sleeve" before you do the engine alignment.
* I used a tool like this to lift the engine https://www.expondo.at/steinberg-systems-kettenzug-2-000-kg-3-m-10030374?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9i79ZrE5wIVFuDtCh07Aw33EAQYAiABEgKPs_D_BwE . the job can be done by one person

fair winds, herbert
SN120



Alan "Woody" Wood
 

That’s all really helpfull, thanks for that Herbert. So you slide the tool back and forth on the shaft to get the alignment right before bringing the engine and shaft back  together after the jobs are done? Unfortunately i’ll Still have to remove the shaft alternator to get to the leak on the flywheel bell housing I think :/ but certainly feel more comfortable abor starting the job now.

Woody

eric freedman
 

Woody,

You adjust the engine mounts with the tool against the transmission output flange.

Once the tool is centered on the flange you then continue to adjust the mounts until there is a plus or minus  .002 clearance between the flange and tool all the way around.. That means the shafts are perfectly aligned.

You then remove the tool and drop the engine back on to the mounts and tighten the engine mounts—USE new nylocks. You can then reassemble the drive chain. I don’t know if you have to  cut the connecting bolts to disassemble the assembly. If you do you can use threaded rod and nylocks to replace the cutoff bolts.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Alan "Woody" Wood
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2020 11:51 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Engine Mounts and Decoupling Vetus/Engine Block

 

That’s all really helpfull, thanks for that Herbert. So you slide the tool back and forth on the shaft to get the alignment right before bringing the engine and shaft back  together after the jobs are done? Unfortunately i’ll Still have to remove the shaft alternator to get to the leak on the flywheel bell housing I think :/ but certainly feel more comfortable abor starting the job now.

Woody

michael winand
 

I have recently been through this process with a new installation. 
You may find that the c drive mounts have sagged from the original position  just a few mm as the c drive is in 2 sections. Your engine mounts have probably sagged as well. 
I would begin with the current drive mounts and then the engine mounts. I gave everything a really good clean up with the engine lifted. 

On Sat, 8 Feb 2020 at 2:06 am, Alan "Woody" Wood
<woody@...> wrote:
Hi All

I've got a few jobs that require decoupling the Vetus from the engine block:

  • Changing engine mounts
  • Changing the Vetus rubber coupling parts
  • Replacing an oil seal/gasket on the flywheel bell housing (it's very leaky!). 

I've trawled the threads and got a fair idea of what to do for the most part (I think!), so thanks to all who contributed, but still have a few questions:

  • What engine mounts are used on SM 97's with a TMD 22 engine - there seems to be plenty of discussion on the subject but no definitive answer?
  • How exactly does the alignment tool (designed by Eric Freedman I think) work in practice? 
  • There is a bit of discussion about 'the trick' to avoid cutting the heads off the coupling bolts - how does this work in practice? 
Anything else you think I should consider while it's all apart? I have the added complication of a prop alternator fitted to the shaft by the way :/

Thanks in advance!

Woody
SM'97