Oil in coolant tank


Bob Grey
 

Hi Guys, didn’t get far on my trip before the first issue popped up, checking the engines before leaving Sydney, found oil in the coolant not the other way around, this is the Volvopenta D3. Had a mechanic on board to check, pressurized the coolant tank to 10PSI and no pressure loss after 20 mins.

Started the motor and at 2300 rpm the pressure increased to 13psi almost immediately and stayed there when engine revs decreased so it seems a one way leak. Which is good , water in the engine oil is worse. So we have a low pressure one way leak into the coolant, very puzzling.

First thing comes to mind is the head gasket, turbo or oil cooler, unfortunately on this motor, the turbo isn’t water cooled and the oil cooler has no oil pressure being attached to the outside of the sump.

we are now down to cracked head, cracked block or head gasket. The mechanic thinks cracked block as it’s alloy and the head is cast iron, the head gasket would blow usually out of the cylinders not a one way leak into the coolant.

A cracked block means new engine as it’s cheaper to buy new than rebuild the motor with a new block.  Was hoping an Amelian an would have experienced the same issue and it didn’t cost a new engine, like Oh that’s the oil seal at … and only costs $200 to replace. Or definitely it’s the head gasket.


Any suggestions or helpful information would be appreciated.

Bob Grey
Renaissance III
A55 # 25


Bill Kinney
 

Bob,

That’s unfortunate… and I agree with you I’d be very reluctant to drop the cost of a new engine because the mechanic “thinks” it’s a cracked block.  Without taking the head off, I don’t know how to separate the potential causes, but this kind of problem is a bit above my paygrade.  Definitely worth a second opinion from another mechanic.  

I do question the assumption that a head gasket failure can never be a one way leak.  Seems a bit weak to condemn the engine on.

My understanding is that oil in coolant, but NO coolant in oil is more likely to be a head gasket or head. Do you know that what you see in the coolant is lubricating oil and not diesel fuel?  If it is diesel fuel, that would again make it more likely to be the top end of the engine.

If you can be reasonably sure the engine has not be over heated, that makes a cracked block rather rare.

Good luck!

Bill Kinney
SM160, Harmonie
Le Marin, Martinique


Bob Grey
 

Bill, definitely engine oil, the head on the D3 is cast iron and the Block is alloy with inserts, It has had a shutdown or two due to intake blocks but with the auto shutdown at 98 deg wouldn’t have expected damage though. 

The cast iron head is probably less prone to failure than the block. Im hoping it’s a gasket but can’t see the normal gasket symptoms.

Bob Grey
Renaissance III


Vladan SV PAME
 

Bob,

I just had mechanic on my boat and ask about your issue. He said that he is almost sure that problem is oil cooler. He said that is common problem on Volvo D3.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Vladan
SV PAME
A54 #157


From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bob Grey via groups.io <renaissanceiii@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2022 2:35:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil in coolant tank
 

Bill, definitely engine oil, the head on the D3 is cast iron and the Block is alloy with inserts, It has had a shutdown or two due to intake blocks but with the auto shutdown at 98 deg wouldn’t have expected damage though. 

The cast iron head is probably less prone to failure than the block. Im hoping it’s a gasket but can’t see the normal gasket symptoms.

Bob Grey
Renaissance III


--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Paul Harries
 
Edited

When you run engine with lid off coolant bottle do you get bubbles?
If you have bubbles then you know you have a fistula that involves exhaust gas as well, can help narrow it down.
--
Paul Harries
Prospective Amel Buyer


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Vladan, I like your mechanic. Bob should follow that lead first
DANNY
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 25/05/2022 02:01 Vladan SV PAME <vladan.bojic@...> wrote:


Bob,

I just had mechanic on my boat and ask about your issue. He said that he is almost sure that problem is oil cooler. He said that is common problem on Volvo D3.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Vladan
SV PAME
A54 #157

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Bob Grey via groups.io <renaissanceiii@...>
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2022 2:35:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Oil in coolant tank

Bill, definitely engine oil, the head on the D3 is cast iron and the Block is alloy with inserts, It has had a shutdown or two due to intake blocks but with the auto shutdown at 98 deg wouldn’t have expected damage though. 

The cast iron head is probably less prone to failure than the block. Im hoping it’s a gasket but can’t see the normal gasket symptoms.

Bob Grey
Renaissance III


--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Bob Grey
 

Hi Guys, thanks for the ideas, it’s a not oil cooler as it is a surface contact unit with no oil pressure running through it and no bubbles, still looking like a block.


Bob Grey 
Renaissance 3
A55 #25


Vladan SV PAME
 

Bob,

My mechanic saying that he see oil cooler issue with same symptoms as you described at least 3 time each year.

Thing is that those oil coolers (that are cooled with fresh water i.e. coolant liquid ) inside ribs where coolant liquid circulating are made from very thin aluminium ( somewhere 0.3 mm thickness ) and they are very prone to rust especially if not good quality coolant liquid is used or coolant liquid not changed regularly. Rust will make pinhole but enough for oil to leak in coolant liquid. 
He recommend to change oil cooler every 3-4 years to avoid problems.

Here in Europe original Volvo Penta oil cooler for D3 cost about EUR 350, to change it is quite easy, and with new coolant liquid I estimate total cost to about EUR 600. I think worth trying before replacing engine.

Further on I will disagree that there is no oil pressure in oil cooler. When engine works there is oil pressure otherwise oil will not flow through oil cooler.


Best Regards,

--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME


Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Would a compression test be valid to identify a problem with a specific cylinder, associated head gasket, or the head?  It could give you a place to start looking or indicate the problem is elsewhere.

--
Mark  Mueller
Former Brass Ring  A54


Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bob. I agree with Vladan as I said in a previous post. The oil cooler seems most likely and easy to check. Blown head gasket? Highly unlikely. Wrong symptoms. Cracked block. ? Unlikely too but I couldn't rule it out as I have with the blown headgasket. So do look at the oil cooler first.
Kind Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl

On 26/05/2022 04:35 Vladan SV PAME <vladan.bojic@...> wrote:


Bob,

My mechanic saying that he see oil cooler issue with same symptoms as you described at least 3 time each year.

Thing is that those oil coolers (that are cooled with fresh water i.e. coolant liquid ) inside ribs where coolant liquid circulating are made from very thin aluminium ( somewhere 0.3 mm thickness ) and they are very prone to rust especially if not good quality coolant liquid is used or coolant liquid not changed regularly. Rust will make pinhole but enough for oil to leak in coolant liquid. 
He recommend to change oil cooler every 3-4 years to avoid problems.

Here in Europe original Volvo Penta oil cooler for D3 cost about EUR 350, to change it is quite easy, and with new coolant liquid I estimate total cost to about EUR 600. I think worth trying before replacing engine.

Further on I will disagree that there is no oil pressure in oil cooler. When engine works there is oil pressure otherwise oil will not flow through oil cooler.


Best Regards,

--
Vladan

A54 #157
SV PAME