Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head


Mark Erdos
 

Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Rob Andrews
 

Hey Mark,
I did mine a few months ago and just used a 4 inch angle grinder (very carefully).  I could reach most of the way around with that and then finished off with a loose hacksaw blade.  They were the tools I had on hand and it worked without drama.
Rob.
--
Rob & Dee
SV Jaygo.
SM#224
Brisbane, Australia


 

Mark,

A Dremel worked fine for me.
You may not be able to remove the hose before you remove the valve. As an alternative, loosen the clamps on the hose barb on top of the valve, then unscrew the hose barb from the valve. 

Also, have a method to heat the hose, which you will likely need to do.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse 
Amel Owners Yacht School
+1 832-380-4970 | brouse@...
720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 
Yacht School Calendar: www.preparetocastoff.blogspot.com/p/calendar.html


   


On Sat, Nov 27, 2021, 15:36 Rob Andrews <robsclan@...> wrote:
Hey Mark,
I did mine a few months ago and just used a 4 inch angle grinder (very carefully).  I could reach most of the way around with that and then finished off with a loose hacksaw blade.  They were the tools I had on hand and it worked without drama.
Rob.
--
Rob & Dee
SV Jaygo.
SM#224
Brisbane, Australia


John Facci
 

Hi Mark,
I used a multi tool (vibrating blade). The main problem I had (other than getting the hose back on) was unscrewing the valve. It wouldn't budge and I was worried my 'large' shifting spanner was going to break. I ended up borrowing a huge pipe wrench from the marina. I used plumbing tape for sealant.

Regards
John
SM #332
Brisbane Australia


Mark McGovern
 

Mark,

For the forward head ball valve removal, I carefully used an oscillating multitool, then a mini-hacksaw that has a portion of the blade sticking out past the frame and finally a plain hacksaw blade by hand to get the outboard most part as best I could.  

I had a lot of difficulty getting my 16" adjustable wrench to get a good grip on the flats of the valve.  It is clearly the wrong tool for this job.  I switched up to my largest Channellock (20").  I put one jaw on the "stub" where the valve handle goes (with the valve handle removed, of course) and the other gripping the middle of the valve body (the round part, not the flat).  It came loose on the first try with what seemed like a ridiculous amount of force.  So much force that I feared ripping a hole in the boat.  I imagine that a pipe wrench will also work well here as the serrated jaws will bite into the valve. 

Here's a pic of the old valve on the left and the new Groco valve I replaced it with on the right.  Note the copious amount of gelcoat all the way up the back of the old valve. 



Oddly, the aft head had absolutely no fiberglass or gelcoat on the ball valve.  It appears to be the original valve or if it was replaced by one of the three previous owners of Cara, it was replaced with the exact same type of valve.

Good luck!

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Annapolis, MD USA


Steve Leeds
 

Hi Mark,
Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

Regards,
Steve Leeds
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:


Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 


Mark Erdos
 

Thank you for the help and suggestions.

 

This went pretty well. Like Mark’s, my aft tank ball-valve was not glassed in like the front. A massive set of channel locks is definitely the right tool for removal. With my feet on the shower bulkhead while sitting in the grate (sort of like a rowing position) – Bingo – came loose first try –but with a massive amount of pull.

 

The hoses didn’t present too much issue. I upgraded the original vinyl hose to Trident hoses about 5 years ago when I replaced the holding tank fittings. These are much better hoses to work with due to the flexibility and no need for heat. And, they do not permeate any order. I believe in the USA they are manufactured for Trident by a third party and maybe available elsewhere in the world under a different brand. https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243583&id=1845631

 

I am taking this opportunity now to replace the base of the head. I had to do this in the forward head after the original base cracked resulting in a wobbly head – not good.  So, I figured the aft is about due for the same upgrade. The crack engineers at Jabsco redesigned the toilet base, discontinued the old model, but kept the same part number. They claim on their site the holes on the new base match the old model. This is a lie.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Steve Leeds via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2021 6:12 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Seacock Replacement Ball Valve in Head

 

Hi Mark,

Unfortunately, I don't remember specifically what tool I used to remove the gelcoat from the ball valve, but I do remember it came off easier than I would have expected.  Use Blue Monster Teflon tape for all pipe joints, much better than the hardware store variety.  Note, this valve is British straight thread, not normal pipe thread!  You can get a Groco ball valve in British straight thread on line.  They come with a grease fitting and Groco sells a special marine growth resistant grease for this purpose.

 

Regards,

Steve Leeds

Sharki 121

Circumnavigator's Yacht Service, Inc.

 

On Saturday, November 27, 2021, 03:12:04 PM EST, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Next week I being the joyous task of changing out the seacock in the aft head.

 

For those who have done this, do you have any advice on the best way to remove the fiberglass overlay allowing the valve to be turned? Also, what product did you successfully use for thread sealant on the new valve,

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us