Volvo Penta D3 110i Replacing the engine belt


Bertrand Quénot
 

Hi everyone,
I have a Low Voltage alarm on the control display of my Volvo Penta D3 110 engine.
It appears that the 12V alternator receives rough water probably from the waterpump above. I might have to replace the waterpump and hopefully I have one in my spares.
However prior to that I think I will have to remove the belt.
Does anybody could provide me with tuto or guidelines to replace a D3 engine belt ? I was not able to find this on the group threads.
Thanks
Bertrand on SV ANTINEA A54#43
currently in Tikehau Tuamotu


Scott SV Tengah
 

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)

--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Nick Newington
 




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Nick Newington
 

Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Bertrand Quénot
 

Thanks Nick and Scott for the prompt advices.
Very clear. And by the way I have a T60 on board. Fine to fix the drops on the alternator.
Although I have a question regarding the alternator integrity.
Getting a “low voltage” alarm does this mean that the alternator is not charging or that the starting battery is low ?
Bertrand


Nick Newington
 

Bertrand,

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...


If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 


 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:


Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Bertrand Quénot
 

Nick,
Yes the start battery starts the generator.
It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.
I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.
However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.
Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.
By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.
Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?
Cheers



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...


If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 


 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Nick Newington
 

If you run the generator it will charge the starting  battery. So that means the generator’s engine is running its 12v alternator that charges the same start battery as the engine’s. 

If you run the engine and the 12v alternator is getting hot that is not correct. Assuming the start battery is full the alternator should not get hotter than the engine itself, actually cooler. 

if there is an auto electric shop nearby, you could take off the alternator to be bench tested. 

Nick

S/Y  Amelia 

AML 54-019 Leros



On 14 Aug 2022, at 20:36, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:

Nick,
Yes the start battery starts the generator.
It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.
I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.
However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.
Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.
By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.
Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?
Cheers



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...


If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 


 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com



Scott SV Tengah
 

In Tikehau, we were ecstatic when we found a religious cult that was using their ummm human waste to grow veggies. Pure organic, I guess you can say. ;)

Bertrand - I could be very wrong but I think you won't find an auto electric shop until you get back to Tahiti.

As an aside, you can easily rebuild your water pump. Thomas and Soraya of Garulfo gave us the specs and gave us sage advice to simply take the water pump off and replace the cheap seal with every impeller change. There's a shop (Tahiti Ruellmont?) that sells all the seals and bearings you need. Ideally you have a puller to install the bearings, but I just pushed pretty hard and it slipped right in. Maybe your bearings are ok and you won't need to replace them.

I also built a little funnel underneath the metal tray under the water pump. Then attached a used tire tube to divert any leakage under the engine, so the water pump doesn't drip into the alternator WHEN it leaks. Surely a more elegant solution can be made, but I made it in the Tuamotus, so supplies were a bit limited.




--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Bertrand Quénot
 

Thanks Nick,
Assuming the start battery could be charged by the generator and a potential issue with the 12V engine alternator maybe I should turn the alternator off.
The alternator not stopping the charge could be what destroyed my previous start battery.
What is the best way to do it ? Disconnecting the lugs or is there a fuse to make it simpler ? I didn’t see any fuse obviously doing that job.
Bertrand
Antinea A54#43 in Tikehau Tuamotu

Le 14 août 2022 à 10:28, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 If you run the generator it will charge the starting  battery. So that means the generator’s engine is running its 12v alternator that charges the same start battery as the engine’s. 

If you run the engine and the 12v alternator is getting hot that is not correct. Assuming the start battery is full the alternator should not get hotter than the engine itself, actually cooler. 

if there is an auto electric shop nearby, you could take off the alternator to be bench tested. 

Nick

S/Y  Amelia 

AML 54-019 Leros



On 14 Aug 2022, at 20:36, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:

Nick,
Yes the start battery starts the generator.
It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.
I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.
However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.
Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.
By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.
Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?
Cheers



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...


If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 


 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com



Bertrand Quénot
 

Now I understand why veggies are so scarce in the Tuamotu: too few people dare doing it the right way !
Thanks for the funnel idea.  Whatever I should find a way to protect the alternator from leakages.
Bertrand
SV Antinea A54#43


Le 14 août 2022 à 12:04, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> a écrit :

In Tikehau, we were ecstatic when we found a religious cult that was using their ummm human waste to grow veggies. Pure organic, I guess you can say. ;)

Bertrand - I could be very wrong but I think you won't find an auto electric shop until you get back to Tahiti.

As an aside, you can easily rebuild your water pump. Thomas and Soraya of Garulfo gave us the specs and gave us sage advice to simply take the water pump off and replace the cheap seal with every impeller change. There's a shop (Tahiti Ruellmont?) that sells all the seals and bearings you need. Ideally you have a puller to install the bearings, but I just pushed pretty hard and it slipped right in. Maybe your bearings are ok and you won't need to replace them.

I also built a little funnel underneath the metal tray under the water pump. Then attached a used tire tube to divert any leakage under the engine, so the water pump doesn't drip into the alternator WHEN it leaks. Surely a more elegant solution can be made, but I made it in the Tuamotus, so supplies were a bit limited.




--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Nick Newington
 

Do not disconnect the big cables . You need to disconnect the field wire. This will be a small wire that comes on when the engine is turned on with the ignition switch.
It may be labelled FLD on the alternator. If you could test which wire comes on with the ignition switch with a multimeter.
When the field wire is disconnected and taped up out of the way the alternator will not generate. The engine panel may make an alarm though when you run it.
Nick


On 15 Aug 2022, at 02:52, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:


Thanks Nick,
Assuming the start battery could be charged by the generator and a potential issue with the 12V engine alternator maybe I should turn the alternator off.
The alternator not stopping the charge could be what destroyed my previous start battery.
What is the best way to do it ? Disconnecting the lugs or is there a fuse to make it simpler ? I didn’t see any fuse obviously doing that job.
Bertrand
Antinea A54#43 in Tikehau Tuamotu

Le 14 août 2022 à 10:28, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 If you run the generator it will charge the starting  battery. So that means the generator’s engine is running its 12v alternator that charges the same start battery as the engine’s. 

If you run the engine and the 12v alternator is getting hot that is not correct. Assuming the start battery is full the alternator should not get hotter than the engine itself, actually cooler. 

if there is an auto electric shop nearby, you could take off the alternator to be bench tested. 

Nick

S/Y  Amelia 

AML 54-019 Leros



On 14 Aug 2022, at 20:36, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:

Nick,
Yes the start battery starts the generator.
It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.
I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.
However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.
Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.
By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.
Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?
Cheers



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...


If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 


 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Bertrand,
The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.
If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 
Take photo before to get the belt route clear.
The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.
Good luck.
PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.
Nick 
S/Y Amelia
AML54-019



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:




On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com



Bertrand Quénot
 

Thanks Nick  for your valuable advices.

A new alternator is in place and running now. It has been a bit difficult to fix though as the model delivered was not insulated and required drills to receive the plastic insulators. Water pump is definitely the faulty part as it has been leaking on the alernator for a while. Hopefully I had one in my spares.

Enjoy Leros and Dodecanese islands.

Bertrand

 

De : main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> De la part de Nick Newington via groups.io
Envoyé : dimanche 14 août 2022 16:12
À : main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Objet : Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Volvo Penta D3 110i Replacing the engine belt

 

Do not disconnect the big cables . You need to disconnect the field wire. This will be a small wire that comes on when the engine is turned on with the ignition switch.

It may be labelled FLD on the alternator. If you could test which wire comes on with the ignition switch with a multimeter.

When the field wire is disconnected and taped up out of the way the alternator will not generate. The engine panel may make an alarm though when you run it.

Nick



On 15 Aug 2022, at 02:52, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:



Thanks Nick,

Assuming the start battery could be charged by the generator and a potential issue with the 12V engine alternator maybe I should turn the alternator off.

The alternator not stopping the charge could be what destroyed my previous start battery.

What is the best way to do it ? Disconnecting the lugs or is there a fuse to make it simpler ? I didn’t see any fuse obviously doing that job.

Bertrand

Antinea A54#43 in Tikehau Tuamotu



Le 14 août 2022 à 10:28, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 If you run the generator it will charge the starting  battery. So that means the generator’s engine is running its 12v alternator that charges the same start battery as the engine’s. 

 

If you run the engine and the 12v alternator is getting hot that is not correct. Assuming the start battery is full the alternator should not get hotter than the engine itself, actually cooler. 

 

if there is an auto electric shop nearby, you could take off the alternator to be bench tested. 

 

Nick

 

S/Y  Amelia 

 

AML 54-019 Leros

 

 



On 14 Aug 2022, at 20:36, Bertrand Quénot <bertrand@...> wrote:

 

Nick,

Yes the start battery starts the generator.

It’s voltage is 12,42 V. This is not completely surprising as I have turned one of the service batteries into a start battery yesterday.

I made a first cleaning of the electrical connections to the alternator.

However I still have the LOW VOLTAGE alarm when I turn the engine on.

Will do another cleaning but I start wondering if the alternator is not dead.

By the way it was burning yesterday and is still very hot one night after.

Stupid question: is there any mean to load the start battery than the engine alternator ?

Cheers

 

 



Le 14 août 2022 à 00:05, Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> a écrit :

 Bertrand,

 

I would check the connections from the Volvo to the battery, more than likely there is corrosion below the 12v alternator or even on the alternator lugs. Those cables should come off and the lugs be sanded bright metal and treated with corrosion X or equivalent, and be secured tightly. I suspect this is where your problems lie due to salt water drips from above...

 

 

If the start battery can start the generator easily, remember that the generator takes more grunt to start than the Volvo because it has to turn the heavy windings of the generator as opposed to just starting the diesel Kubota motor, then the 12v start battery should be fine. 

 

 

 Nick Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

 

Bertrand,

The 12v alternator and raw water pump are driven by the same belt which is tensioned by an automatic spring loaded tensioner.

If you look carefully you will see a star shaped hole. You need T60 socket. You turn it against the spring with one hand, takes quite a bit of force, and the belt is de tensioned and can be removed. 

Take photo before to get the belt route clear.

The raw water pump directly above 12v alternator is a design fault. I get a black napkin and fold it and place on the tray below the pump so that any drips from the raw water pump drip onto it. They show up as white crystals. Change the pump seals  before it gets worse and drips on the alternator below is sensible advice.

Good luck.

PS since you will be changing the raw water pump or the seals then run fresh water through the engine first so the inevitable spillage will not be salt water.

Nick 

S/Y Amelia

AML54-019

 



On 14 Aug 2022, at 07:51, NICK NEWINGTON <ngtnewington@...> wrote:





On 14 Aug 2022, at 06:09, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

See attached.

You will need a T60 Torx bit and it needs to be longer than normal to clear the pulley. Hopefully you have one in your tools that came with the boat as I am not sure the magasin in Tikehau will have it. ;)
<Screen Shot 2022-08-14 at 5.08.06 PM.png>
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com